Alcademics.com

Interview with a Water Sommelier

In researching water in both both distilled spirits and at serving, I came across Martin Riese, a water sommelier. He is the General Manager at Ray's & Stark, a restaurant located at the LA County Museum of Art (LACMA).

He is developing a water program for the restaurant, and has his own water brand, hilariously called Beverly Hills 9OH2O. 

I asked him for an email interview and he kindly consented. The interview is below, slightly modified in some places for clarity. 

How did you become a water sommelier?

I had in 2005 the idea to create a water menu in the restaurant which I worked (in Germany). We had 1500 different wines and I always thought we needed to have a selection of waters to pair with the wines. The idea was a huge success, we started with 14 different waters and we ended up with over 40. I could almost not believe how different all the waters can taste and which impact they had to the wine and food experience.

The media attention which I received gave me the name of water sommelier. So, I do not have really a certification as a water sommelier but I learned learned everything during the job and during a lot of tastings and matching.

Where else are there water sommeliers in the USA? 

I've known that for several years a hotel in New York had a water sommelier, but I don't know of a list or other water sommeliers who are working in the restaurant industry right now.

What will the water program be like at Ray’s & Starck? 

The hardest thing right now for me is not to create the water menu, it is to get the waters into the United States. We are not talking about the regular waters which you can get in every grocery store like Voss or Fiji. I want to show my guests the variety of waters like Iskilde from Denmark, which has a very unique earth taste, or Vichy Catalan which is very salty and high in minerals.

The program at Ray's will feature around 20 different mineral waters. It will be not a regular list; it will be more like a small book with a lot of information. Every water will get one whole page with a picture of the bottle, the mineral content, a small chart how the water will taste,; and a story about the water, where the spring is and why the water is so unique.

I read the book Fine Waters [read about that here and here and here]. Do you categorize water in the same way as the author Michael Mascha? What do you do or how do you think differently than he does?

I highly respect Michael Mascha. He was one of the first ones here in America who realized how important is to drink the right water. And exactly that is the challenge here in America. For 99 percent of Americans, is water just water. In Europe people have a different background on the topic water. Just in Germany we have over 580 different water brands. People are very aware of the difference in water.

In America most of the time guests order tap water, with ice and lemon. Here in Los Angeles, tap water is filtered so the mineral content is very low, and chlorine is added for sanitary reasons. Imagine now you enjoying a great red wine with a good amount of tannins. The chlorine of the tap water will overpower the fruit nuances, the extremely chilled-down water will completely ruin your experience, and the acidity of the lemon is not pairing with the tannins of the red wine.

I like to help my guests and it is amazing for me to see how wines and spirits can change by just the right water which you are drinking beside it.

I’m concerned more with water and spirits more than water and food pairings. Have you explored that very much?

My main focus was always pairing water with food and wines. When I started at Ray's & Stark Bar I met Paul Sanguinetti my mixologist (and the restaurant's sommelier). It was amazing that we both shared the same ideas and it was amazing for me to explore the different waters with different spirits.

Some distillers say that you should serve/dilute whisky only with low or medium TDS (totally dissolved solids, the mineral content) levels. In Fine Waters, he also recommends staying away from high TDS waters with mixed drinks. Why is that?

I agree for whisky. High TDS waters have a very strong own taste, they can be almost salty. You want to enjoy the original taste of the whisky and you do not want to alienate the taste with the high minerals.

But in mixed drinks it can be very interesting and I think there is a lot to explore for the bartenders and mixologists here in LA. The taste of water can be used to bring the cocktail to the next level. For example, the same cocktail made with a low mineral water will be more likely smooth, with a high mineral water you will add some spice to it.

I am always giving the example of the movie Ratatouille, where the rat is explaining the different taste with colors. One mineral has the color red, the other green, add the different taste of the spirits, like blue and yellow, together it can become a firework. But be careful, by adding to many colors (different tastes), the colors are not bright any more .

Do you have an opinion on ideal brands (or styles) of water for drinks such as the Scotch and Soda? Vodka Soda?

Lots of people think that mineral water is automatically soda water. That is not true, mineral water can be still or with carbonation. Soda water is a water which has a high content of CO2, and that is exactly the most important thing for mixing it with drinks.

When you would use a mineral water which has a medium content of CO2, the mixed drink would not have enough carbonation. I think every single bartender should choose his favorite brand. Just do the test, buy several soda waters , taste them by themselves and then make the same cocktail with different soda waters. For sure every single bartender will find the right soda water for there concept. 

I prefer a water with a medium mineral content, to give the drinks some support, but every bar should do a tasting and they will come up with the 'right" water.

I’ve been playing around with individual components of mineral waters. I’m wondering if you have tasting notes for individual mineral salts in water: sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, etc. Or have feelings about waters that contain a lot of any one of them.

The mix of different minerals in each water is interesting. That's the reason water has such a big variety from salty to smooth, from bitter to sweet. Just minerals by themselves have following tastes:

Sodium = salty
Calcium = bitter, sour - actually calcium has his own taste which scientist discovered several years ago
Magnesium = slightly bitter
Potassium = salty - sour

Photo by Sven Doornkaat. Property of Martin Riese

 

Beverly Hills 90H2O

I asked Riese for information about his water brand. The below is from the press release with additional info from Riese. 

PH 7.5
TDS 390

Actually that is the amazing thing, when you drink the water it feels like a very low mineral water, but it has a good amount of minerals to be the perfect match with good wines, spirits and food

Beverly Hills 9OH2O, World’s First Sommelier-Crafted Water, Launched Globally

Inspired by the crafting of champagne and fine spirits, a team of fine dining experts led by the world's preeminent water sommelier Martin Riese has created Beverly Hills 9OH2O, the world’s first sommelier-crafted water.  

Pristine spring water from the Northern California Mountains is crafted with natural minerals using a proprietary patent-pending formula. It is designed to have the ultimate taste profile, and is best enjoyed gently chilled to 59°F. The resulting masterpiece is alkaline, highly balanced, and the perfect pairing to fine foods and wines.

Beverly Hills 9OH2O is made available in limited editions of 10,000 individually numbered glass bottles. Each edition features unique custom art, making every bottle also a highly desirable gift and prized collectable.

The water is available for purchase online for the rate of $164 for a 12-bottle case of liters. 

 

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The Water Project on Alcademics is research into water in spirits and in cocktails, from the streams that feed distilleries to the soda water that dilutes your highball. The research for the project is supported by Bowmore Islay Single Malt Scotch Whisky. For all posts in the project, visit the project index page. 

 

Related articles

How to Properly Serve Bottled Water

How to Classify Bottled Waters

Pairing Mineral Water With Food

Building Better Mineral Water: Deconstructing Mineral Waters

Good Booze, Bad Booze: It's Not a Beer Belly, It's Just a Booze Belly

 
One day science says drinking will make you live forever. The next day science says it will kill you tomorrow. Good Booze, Bad Booze is an Alcademics category where I put all these stories together. 

 

6/17/13:  Beer Bellies Are a Myth  [link] 

From TIME: "According to University of California Davis food science professor Charles Bamforth, the colloquial notion of the beer belly — that beer somehow uniquely targets the gut – doesn’t jibe with medical science."

Previous Good Booze, Bad Booze

5/14/13:  Scientists reveal drinking champagne could improve memory  [link] 

 4/07/13:  Self-medication drinking may lead to alcohol dependence  [link] 

 4/06/13:  Binge drinking in your 20s can trigger heart disease, as being young has no protective effect against alcohol  [link] 

04/106/13:  Three glasses of fizz a day 'could improve your memory' [link]

3/19/13:  College enrollment does not lead to problem drinking in adulthood [link] 

 3/09/13:  Heavy drinkers get extra brain fuel from alcohol [link] 

 2/15/13:  Alcohol said to have big role in cancer [link] 

 1/29/13:  Local bottle shops linked to mental health [link] 

 1/23/13:  Alcohol and a Good Night's Sleep Don't Mix [link] 

 1/09/13:  Resolved to give up alcohol for January? It could do you more harm than good [link] 

 12/31/12:  Settling down with a Christmas tipple may be good for your health - but only if you're slim [link] 

 12/17/12:  Depression risk reduced in women who drink moderately [link] 

 12/10/12:  Beer is good for you: study finds that suds contain anti-viral powers [link] 

11/20/12:  Alcohol aids survival of traumatic injuries, UIC study shows [link] 

 11/13/12:  Resveratrol From Red Wine Grapes Could Help Kill Prostate Tumor Cells  [link] 

 11/7/12:  Could a glass of wine help a woman beat breast cancer?  [link] 

 10/27/12:  Red Wine Compound May Not Help Healthy Women  [link] 

 10/27/12:  Just two glasses of wine a day can nearly halve the number of brain cells we produce   [link] 

 9/9/12:  Consuming three or more alcoholic drinks daily may raise risk for hemorrhagic stroke  [link] 

 9/9/12:  No fun! Non-alcoholic wine best for health benefits  [link] 

 

see plenty more news stories after the jump...

A Visit to the Fernet-Branca Distillery in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Back in April I visited the Fernet-Branca distillery outside of Buenos Aires, Argentina. Some of you may remember me tweeting about it. Well, it's about time I gave it the formal write-up.

Fernet-Branca owns two distilleries: the main one in Milan, Italy, and this one in Buenos Aires. In past years there used to be many Branca distilleries in different countries (including the US), but as global shipping has become easier this model makes the most sense. 

Production began in Argentina around 1905 or 1908 and has continued ever since. The current distillery was built in 2000 and it already at full capacity.

Surprisingly, the Fernet-Branca we drink in the US is made in Milan. The Fernet-Branca made in Buenos Aires is consumed mostly in Argentina but also South/Latin America.

I didn't directly ask if the Fernet-Branca made in Buenos Aires is made to the exact same recipe, but if you compare them side-by-side you can tell it is not. The stuff made for the local market is less sweet than the international version (makes sense given that they always drink it with Coke, never on its own), and some bitter elements seemed to be different in a way I can't describe. Also, the proof was different than the international version but I believe recently has changed to conform with the Italian one.   

They do, however, willingly admit that they use only three different ingredients than in Italy: The base alcohol is a local 95% ABV sugar cane distillate, and the sugar cane is local as well. The water is also local, coming from an underground river in the area. Another local ingredient used is chamomile, but the same flower is exported from here to be used in the Italian production as well.

Unfortunately pictures were not allowed in the distillery, so below is the verbal tour. I should also note that this is not a distillery at all: the base alcohol is distilled elsewhere. This is the blending and aging facility, but to make it easy I'll just call it a distillery. 

Herbs and Spices

The first room we passed had the smell of caramel, and in fact that's where they were making the carmel coloring for Fernet, which they appeared to be doing by heating and stirring sugar in big tubs. 

Most of the work in making Fernet-Branca is doing tons of separate infusions and macerations to get the flavor from the herbs, barks, roots, and spices into the spirit. Thus, the rooms that we walked through were full of different types of stainless steel tanks of a wide variety of shapes and sizes.

Some were small simple tanks, some were huge vats, some had stirrers and filters on them; some were sideways roller tanks that slowly rotate. Our guide told us that some ingredients are infused into alcohol; others into water. Some infuse separately; other ingredients are combined. 

The longest infusion of any ingredient in Fernet-Branca is for 90 days, but our guide couldn't say which ingredient that was. We saw piles of burlap bags of chamomile, zedoria, and other spices from India, Spain, Africa, and Iran stacked in different rooms. Other herbs are kept in a refrigerated room. They store 2 years' worth of ingredients just in case there are any supply chain problems down the road. 

Aging Fernet

Beneath the factory is a huge basement that stores tanks for aging Fernet-Branca. There are six cellars, plus two additional climate-controlled warehouses. These are full of gigantic wooden vats (one of them holds 100,000 liters!) aging the liqueur. Two of the smallest vats at the distillery date back to around 1908 and were used at the Italian distillery before being sent to Argentina. 

Each tank ages separately, but before bottling they pour the Fernet-Branca into one tank that is connected to a series of other tanks by tubes. They only draw the finished product out of the last tank, so this is a way to marry and blend a great quantity of the Branca for consistency. 

Production

The factory is running at full capacity making 4 million cases every year, and presently and they are expanding to double that over the next few years. 

They also make Branda Menta here, Punt E Mes, and they bottle Borghetti coffee liqueur. 

Drinking Fernet-Branca, Argentinean-Style

Mix it with Coke. They never drink Fernet-Branca on its own; I'd hazard a guess to say that almost nobody has ever even tried it neat there. 

It's funny that to us Fernet and Coke sounds repulsive (while to them drinking Fernet-Branca neat sounds like drinking radiator fluid), yet it's not actually that bad. They seem to treat it like an everyday cocktail like a Gin & Tonic, but I actually didn't mind it as a digestif after a meal. 

New Booze: Pimm’s Blackberry & Elderflower (UK Only)

Here are some new spirits launching. The text is taken from these brands' press releases.

Pimm’s Blackberry & Elderflower (UK Only)

Pimm’s Blackberry & Elderflower is now available nationwide.  This twist on the iconic summer favourite blends the quintessential British flavours of fruity blackberries and fragrant elderflower. Based on a new Pimm’s blend, this first ever flavoured infusion from Pimm’s is perfect served over ice, mixed with lashings of lemonade, and topped with the freshest blackberries you can get your mitts on, perfect choice for adding some sunshine to summer shin-digs with chums and it tastes just as good on those not so sunny days.  RRP £15.49 for 70cl; 250ml pre-mix can (5.4%ABV), RRP £1.85

St. George California Agricole Rum (July 2013)

St. George Spirits will release its initial bottling of St. George California Agricole Rum at the end of June 2013. Bottles will start hitting shelves nationally in July. St. George California Agricole Rum is the re-launch of the California craft distillery's Agua Libre Rum, first released in 2010. While St. George California Agricole Rum is a new name and sports a new label design, the rum itself is the same spirit under the name Agua Libre.

St. George California Agricole Rum is made from fresh sugarcane, not molasses, in the style of a rhum agricole or cachaça. The sugarcane is grown in the Imperial Valley of Southern California. Immediately after harvest, stalks of sugarcane are shipped to the St. George Spirits distillery in Alameda, where the stalks are run by hand through a sugarcane press in order to extract fresh juice. The freshly pressed, uncooked cane juice is then fermented and distilled in the distillery's 500-liter copper pot still.

The SRP is $50 for a 750ml bottle at 43% ABV. 

Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams 2013

This month, Glenfiddich Single Malt Scotch Whisky celebrates the launch of the 2013 Cask of Dreams Limited Edition Bottling, exclusive for the USA. 

Cask of Dreams is a special marriage of Glenfiddich whiskies taken from a selection of American oak barrels holding matured whiskies of a variety of ages, with the youngest at 14 Years Old. This whisky was then decanted into virgin American oak barrels to bring an intense and powerful vanilla sweetness. Glenfiddich Cask of Dreams will be available in a very limited quantity of 6,660 bottles at select retailers starting in June with a recommended retail price of $99.

Canadian Mist Flavors (June 2013)

The makers of Canadian Mist announce the release of Mist Flavors in the United States. Launching in 14 markets beginning in June, the three products – Peach Mist, Cinnamon Mist and Maple Mist – are crafted with Canadian Mist which is mingled with proprietary liqueur. Canadian Mist is triple distilled and aged in white oak barrels, charred to expose the "red layer" and create a light-tasting, flavorful whisky. The whisky is then added to the proprietary peach, cinnamon or maple liqueur to create the unique, smooth taste of Mist Flavors.

Mist Flavors will be introduced in 14 markets this summer:  Arkansas, Colorado, Georgia, Illinois, Indiana, Kansas, Louisiana, Michigan, Missouri, Oklahoma, Tennessee, Texas, Virginia and Wisconsin.Peach Mist, Cinnamon Mist and Maple Mist are available in 50ml and 750ml bottle sizes in select U.S. markets. Each bottle will be presented at 70 proof with a suggested retail price of $9.99 for a 750ml bottle.

 

Castello Mio Sambuca

Castle Brands announces that Castello Mio Sambuca is now available in the US in "classico" style as well as espresso. The classic Castello Mio Sambuca Superiore is a unique combination of all the traditional sambuca flavors with a secret blend of herbs and spices. One of the great traditions of sipping sambuca is to add three coffee beans to it, allowing the natural coffee flavors and aromas to lightly infuse the glass. Legend has it that this will also bring you good luck. Castello Mio Sambuca Espresso takes that tradition one step further - with an infusion of real Italian deep roast coffee beans added to the classic sambuca.  Both products retail for a SRP of $24.99.

Luxardo Aperitivo 

Luxardo, in partnership with Anchor Distilling Company, introduces Luxardo Aperitivo to its family of Italian liqueurs. Luxardo Aperitivo (11% ABV, 750 mL, SRP $19.99) expresses the rich aperitivo tradition for which it was named. This amari, or liqueur category of Italian bitters, is an infusion of herbs, roots & citrus. The mild alcohol content & bitter orange flavor offers a complement to several fruit juices, wines and Prosecco. The favorite Italian cocktail is the Spritz, or the mix of Prosecco and Luxardo Aperitivo.

 

 

Malibu Sundae and Malibu Swirl, May 2013

Malibu announces the launch of two dessert-flavored additions to the Malibu family marking the brand’s debut into the confectionary spirits segment. Malibu Sundae combines the brand’s signature coconut taste with the flavor of chocolate ice cream while Malibu Swirl pairs the flavor of coconut with the taste of strawberries and cream.

Malibu Sundae, and Malibu Swirl, 21% ABV will be available in 1L, 750ml, and 50ml sizes and will retail for a suggested price of $14.99/750ml. 

 

 

Expresiones del Corazon Tequila, June 2013

Expresiones del Corazon, a limited, tequila collection aged in barrels from Buffalo Trace, and made at the Casa San Matias Distillery located in the Los Altos region of Jalisco. Offered in five unique expressions: Buffalo Trace Reposado, George T. Stagg Anejo, Sazerac Rye Anejo, Old Rip Van Winkle Anejo, and Blanco.

Using 100% blue agave from the highlands of Jalisco in Mexico, the brix was measured to determine sugar levels before harvest, rather than a traditional clear cut.  Two sets of agave were harvested, one with a lower sugar content and flavored a little drier, and one with a higher sugar content considered a little sweeter for agave, resulting in more floral notes. The result was a harmonization of the two sets of agave in the amazing Blanco, which was then used as the base for the other four Expressions noted above.    The agave was then slow cooked in stone ovens, infused with oxygen to further enhance the flavor and aroma, and then double distilled.

Expresiones del Corazon will be available nationally in mid-late June. Quantities are limited, with only 6,000 bottles of each variety available.  Suggested retail prices range from $59.99 to $89.99, depending on expression.

Buffalo Trace Reposado – 10.5 months in Buffalo Trace Bourbon barrels. 80 proof.
George T. Stagg Anejo – 22 months in George T. Stagg Bourbon barrels. 80 proof.
Sazerac Rye Anejo – After 24 months in Sazerac Rye Whiskey barrels. 90 proof.
Old Rip Van Winkle Anejo – 23 months in the wood of Old Rip Van Winkle Bourbon barrels. 80 proof.
Blanco. 80- proof. 

Tapatio 110-Proof Blanco Tequila (May 2013)

Carlos Camarena, the iconic distiller of Mexico’s 75-year-old Tequila Tapatio brand has launched a 110-proof Tequila. Tapatio 110-Proof Blanco (55% alc. by vol.) was distilled at Alteña Distillery from 100% estate-grown blue agaves in the Arandas Highlands of Mexico. Under Master Distiller Carlos’ Camerena, the agaves were hand-selected for ripeness and slow-baked for four days. After being crushed, the agave ‘Mosto’ was fermented in small wooden fermenters using their proprietary 75 year-old yeast culture. The ‘Mosto Muerte’ was then double-distilled in small (90-250 gallon) Alambiques Tequilano copper pot stills and aged lightly in stainless.  

Suggested retail for Tapatio 110-Proof Blanco is $48 (1 Liter). It is available in CA, WA, OR, TX, NY, NJ, CT, FL and MO.

Ron Barceló Imperial Premium Blend 30 Aniversario

Ron Barceló Celebrates 30 Years Since the Introduction of Ron Barceló Imperial with a Limited-Edition Release of Ron Barceló Imperial Premium Blend 30 Aniversario. Each year since Miguel Barceló first created Ron Barceló Imperial in 1980, private reserves of this prestigious ten-year-old blended rum were set aside for two years of additional aging.  Aged in barrels made from selected cuts of white oak, these reserves, some from the Bordeaux house of Château d’Yquem, each with different grades of toasting, were blended to create the limited edition Imperial Premium Blend 30 Aniversario in 2011.

Only 9,000 bottles of the Imperial Premium Blend are bottled annually, and of that 9,000 only 600 are allocated to the United States where this Dominican rum was recently introduced. The Imperial Premium Blend 30 Aniversario is 43% alcohol by volume.Ron Barceló Imperial Premium Blend retails for $120.00 per 750ml bottle and is currently available for sale in Florida, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New York and Rhode Island. For more information or to request an interview, please visit www.ronbarcelo.com 

 

Sia Scotch (June 2013)

SIA Scotch Whisky, a blended whisky distilled in Scotland and matured, blended and bottled by Douglas Laing & Co., Ltd., is heading for US shelves. Created by Scotch Enthusiast, licensed bartender and former Creative Director Carin Luna-Ostaseski, SIA is a blend of Speyside, Highlands and Islay malts, specifically created to appeal to a contemporary palate. The product is initially available in San Francisco.

SIA (43% ABV) is expected to be on shelves beginning in June with a retail price of $44.99 (750ml). SIA is imported by Spirit Imports, Inc. of Sunrise, FL. Named after the Gaelic word for the number six, SIA is the first Scotch to be funded through Kickstarter, the crowd sourcing website that is commonly used to fund start-up projects such as films or tech innovations. For additional information, visit www.SiaScotch.com.

UV Vodka Salty Watermelon and Peach (May 2013)

Phillips Distilling Company (Phillips) today announces two juicy new flavor additions to the UV Vodka portfolio, UV Salty Watermelon and UV Peach. Just in time for summer, the new flavors extend UV Vodka’s award-winning selection to 19 flavors. UV Salty Watermelon is the world’s first salted fruit flavored vodka. The flavor was inspired by memories of eating salted watermelon during hot summer days. Phillips experimented with various amounts of salt with all-natural watermelon flavors until they arrived at the blend of sweet, ripe watermelon and a hint of salt to bring out the flavor.

UV Vodka is distilled four times for premium quality and activated carbon filtered to ensure the highest level of purity and the perfect pH balance. UV Salty Watermelon and UV Peach are available in all bottle sizes with a suggested retail price of $12.99 for a 750mL bottle.

Five Gabriel Boudier Liqueurs

21st Century Spirits, a Los Angeles-based importer and producer of wine and spirits, extends its import portfolio holdings with France's Gabriel Boudier to include five new liqueurs. Four of the five new liqueurs will broaden the Gabriel Boudier Mixologist Range from 8 to 12 liqueur flavors with the addition of premium flavors: Caramel, Hibiscus, Darjeeling Tea and Vanilla and Cognac. The fifth Gabriel Boudier introduction is a special dedication to the late French Chef, Bernard Loiseau whose collaboration with Gabriel Boudier to create a unique cherry and chocolate liqueur blend lives on through the Gabriel Boudier Bernard Loiseau Morello Cherries and Chocolate Liqueur bottling, now available to U.S. purchasers nationwide.

The Caramel, Hibiscus, Darjeeling Tea and Vanilla and Cognac flavor additions to the Gabriel Boudier Mixologist Range join the original Mixologist Range portfolio, including: Lychee, Apple, Maraschino, Orange, Parfait Amour, Pomegranate, Ginger and Williams Pear.

Suggested retail pricing for a 750 ml bottle of the existing Gabriel Boudier Mixologist Range, as well as all five new liqueurs, including Gabriel Boudier Bernard Loiseau Morello Cherries and Chocolate Liqueur is $30 USD.

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See more New Booze by clicking the link below.