Month: December 2010

  • Four Roses Bourbon Distillery Visit

    This week I was in Kentucky for a quick visit to the Four Roses distillery. For some history on this brand, see this post a I wrote a few years ago. In short, Four Roses was only a bourbon in Japan for many years, and has recently come back to the US market. They use two mashbills (grain makeup) and five strains of yeast to make ten recipes of bourbon. 

    Four roses rickhouse3_tn

    The ten recipes blended together ensure a consistent bourbon from batch to batch. Another way they help do this is by having single-story rickhouses. While other brands have several floors in their rickhouses with quite extreme temperature variations in them, at Four Roses they're only one floor high, six barrels tall, with a much less variation in temperature from top to bottom.

    Four roses tasting 10 recipes_tn
     We did two tastings at the distillery. One was tasting all ten recipes of the white dog. They have quite the wide range of flavor, from fruity to spicy. The second was tasting several barrels all with the same recipe from different barrels. This was fascinating as there was a surprisingly large difference: one tasted like oloroso sherry, one like apricot socks, one like creamed corn.

    Four roses still_tn

    Largely because they've been selling mostly in Japan, they use all non-GMO corn. Distillery Jim Rutledge says they don't really advertise that because he doesn't expect they'll be able to get enough non-GMO corn to continue doing so: everything is being replaced by the modified stuff. 

    Four roses obsk_tn

    Well I have to run to another event- more on this interesting brand another time. 

  • Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Tradicion

    In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Tradicion. 

    Bodegas tradicion 2_tn
     (The small and beautiful bodega.)

    Bodegas tradicion glass 4_tn
    (Drinking out of the barrel.)

    Bodegas tradicion 6_tn
    (Criadera refers to the level of the barrel in the solera system. The 1/18 refers to the number of the barrel and the total of the set. )

    Bodegas tradicion painting_tn
    (They also have an art gallery in the bodega. I call this painting "Laserdove".)

     

    • Bodega only started in 1998
    • Only produce old sherries –  VOS, VORS. 
    • They buy them from other bodegas already aged and put them into their solera system.
    • To my palate, older sherries are effervescent, literally. Very acidic. Lively jumps in your mouth.
  • Chartreuse + Chocolate = Delicious

    The week before Paul Clarke wrote about the same topic to make it look like I ripped him off, I wrote my next blog entry for FineCooking.com, about the magical mystery combination of Chartreuse liqueur and chocolate. 

    While Paul was creative and found four drinks that combine the two ingredients, I went to Jamie Boudreau and asked if I could borrow a single recipe he blogged about in 2007. I'd like to think that this just makes me efficient.  

    Hot chocolate med res
    (Verte Chaud by Jamie Bodreau. Photo also by Jamie Boudreau.)

    Read the story on FineCooking.com here.

    And remember, your comments at Fine Cooking make me love you more. 

  • Tequila Distillery Visit: Casa Pedro Domecq

    In November I visited seven tequila distilleries in Mexico. Here are some pictures and notes from my visit to Casa Pedro Domecq in the town of Arandas.

    Olmeca altos agave ovens2_tn(Agave being loaded into ovens. They use the same agave for treatment with rollermill as with tahona.)

    This distillery makes Tezon tequila, Olmeca Altos, and a mixto tequila for the Mexican market. I believe Tezon is all tahona tequila. This was distributed by Pernod Ricard in the US, but it appears they've abandoned it and are pursuing sales of Olmeca Altos, which is about half the price, instead. This tequila, also 100% agave, is made by blending agave that has been processed with a roller mill with tahona agave. 

    Tequila olmeca altos agave roller mill_tn(In the rollermill process, after the agave is baked to break up the complex into simpler, fermentable sugars, the agave is shredded using a rollermill.)

    Tequila olmeca altos tahona crushing agave4_tn
    (The tahona method. After baking the agave, the chunks of agave are placed in this pit. The large volcanic stone wheel rotates around in it, crushing the agave to expose the sugars before distillation. In olden times, the tahona would have been pulled by a mule.)

    Tequila olmeca altos tahona crushing agave2_tn
    (This is the post-tahona agave. Gross. The fibers actually reabsorb the liquids here. All of it is thrown into the fermentation tanks.)

    Fermenting agave tequila olmeca altos_tn
    (Fermenting agave juice.)

    Copper stills for tahona agave tequila olmeca altos (2)_tn
    (These stills are for the tahona agave- the big opening is so they can put in the fibers.)

    Barrels with plastic to prevent evaporation tequila olmeca altos_tn
    (In the warehouse, they cover the lids of some barrels with plastic to reduce evaporation.)

    • Agave for Olmeca Altos is 7-8 years old before harvest. 
    • They cut out the cogollo (the interior of the plant where it would sprout to reproduce if it could) in the field. 
    • They heat the agave in ovens, though they own an autoclave that is sometimes used for the mixto. 
    • They use larger pot stills for the mixto. 
    • They ferment and distill the tahona agave with the agave fibers, not the rollermill agave.
    • The reposado tequila is aged in ex-bourbon barrels for 6-8 months.
    • They replace the barrels after 9-10 years. They tried recharring the barrels but didn't like the results.
    • The last agave shortage was in 2000 and 2001. Some people predict another shortage in a year or two. 
    • Lowland soils are sandier, darker, and more volcanic
    • 60-70% of agave for tequila is grown in the highlands
  • Winter Drinking Guide in 7×7 Magazine

    Oh hello, giant sexy four-page spread in the December issue of 7×7 Magazine written by Camper English!

    7x7december2010

    Run screaming to your local newsstand to pick up the latest issue with a guide to winter drinking. In it you'll learn:

    • Where to get your fancy on in a hotel bar
    • The best hot drinks in SF
    • Bars with rooms for rent
    • The bar with 1200 Santa Claus dolls on display
    • How I worked the phrase "plaid-slathered" into a bar review
    • Gift ideas from local liquor stores
    • The best bar for hungover bartender spotting