Month: October 2017

  • What is a Blended Straight Bourbon Whiskey?

    Old Elk Blended Straight Bourbon WhiskeyI was about to casually add a product to the New Booze page when I realized I didn't know what it was: Old Elk Blended Straight Bourbon Whiskey. 

    I thought that "blended" and "straight" whiskey were at odds with each other, as blended whiskeys must contain at least 20% straight whiskeys in their blend.  

    The press release doesn't address what is a blended straight bourbon is in the description: 

    With four times more malted barley than conventional recipes and a slow cut proofing process which allows more time for flavors to marry between proofing stages, the Old Elk Bourbon recipe transcends tradition to craft a rich, smooth bourbon. 

    “We use traditional ingredients – malted barley, corn and rye – in an innovative, yet steadfast recipe to create a bourbon with smooth, rich flavors that act in harmony with caramel cues brought out by the charred barrels and spicy rye notes,” said Greg Metze, Master Distiller at Old Elk Distillery. “After testing a variety of proofing periods, we found that these flavors come together in a smoother bourbon when the proofing stages are longer. Instead of taking the usual 24 to 48 hours for proofing, we use a slow cut proofing process during which full-barrel proof bourbon is cut and left to rest – and we repeat this patient technique until the ideal character is achieved. It takes significantly longer than most common recipes, but taking the time to proof slowly makes all the difference.” 

     (SRP $49.99), now available in Colorado and California

    So I looked it up. 

    According to the US Government

    (5)(i) ‘‘A blend of straight whiskies’’
    (blended straight whiskies) is a mixture
    of straight whiskies which does
    not conform to the standard of identify
    for ‘‘straight whisky.’’ Products so designated
    may contain harmless coloring,
    flavoring, or blending materials as
    set forth in 27 CFR 5.23(a).
    (ii) ‘‘A blend of straight whiskies’’
    (blended straight whiskies) consisting
    entirely of one of the types of straight
    whisky, and not conforming to the
    standard for straight whisky, shall be
    further designated by that specific type
    of straight whisky; for example, ‘‘a
    blend of straight rye whiskies’’ (blended
    straight rye whiskies). ‘‘A blend of
    straight whiskies’’ consisting entirely
    of one of the types of straight whisky
    shall include straight whisky of the
    same type which was produced in the
    same State or by the same proprietor
    within the same State, provided that
    such whisky contains harmless coloring,
    flavoring, or blending materials as
    stated in 27 CFR 5.23(a).

    So a blended straight bourbon whiskey like this is a blend of straight bourbons that may contain coloring, flavoring, or blending materials. 

     

     Update: A PR representative for the brand clarified that although Old Elk could legally use additives in its formulation according to the whiskey category it is in, they do not. They wrote:

    Long story short:

    • Old Elk Bourbon conforms to Section 2 Grain Spirits (1)(i) Bourbon Whisky
    • Old Elk Bourbon also conforms to Section 2 Grain Spirits (1)(iii) as a “Straight Bourbon Whisky” except that it is a blend of straight bourbon whiskies from other states, not the same state.
    • Therefore, Old Elk Bourbon is relegated to Section 5 (ii) “A Blend of Straight Bourbon Whiskies” which allows the use of coloring, flavoring or blending materials but does not mandate it.

    Old Elk Bourbon does not use additives, but still falls under the “Straight Bourbon Whiskey” designation since the bourbon whiskies used in the blend were produced in three different states (Colorado, New York and Indiana). They do plan to change that, as they’re expanding their distillery in Colorado.

     

  • The Gin & Tonic Stage Show at Bar Convent Berlin

    I thought I'd share the awesome stage set-up put on for my talk at the recent Bar Convent Berlin, since it was awesome. I gave a talk on the Weird and Wild History of the Gin & Tonic. The talk was sponsored by Rutte Distillery, and they went all out in creating stage props. 

     

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    The talk was divided into six chapters, and for each chapter there was a corresponding panel on the side of the stage. The panels were about 10 feet tall, and my "assistant," brand ambassador Steffen Zimmermann, opened the panel to reveal the illustration. 

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    Steffen and I got matching suits so that he could be "Maxi-Me." I found suits that have tulips on them to play up the Holland connection of the gin. 

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    The panels were based on stories in my book. The first one is a pope transitioning into a blood-sucking mosquito. The most fun one is a scientist discovering the color mauve. The top panel is the scientist discovering the color; the bottom half that opens separately is the scientist wearing a dress as he abandons science for the fashion industry. 

     

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    Thanks to Hanna Lee for taking and sending me these pictures, and the Rutte for sponsoring the talk, the props, and the special printing of the book!

     

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  • Boiled Versus Rested Water Clarity with Directional Freezing: A Comparison

    The main water factors that affect ice clarity in an ideal environment:

    • Gasses in water
    • Minerals/other impurities in water

    Factors of the freezing environment that also impact clarity:

    • Rate of freezing (warmer temperatures better)
    • Shape of container, which impacts whether the last part to freeze will crack the ice (as it does in a typical ice cube tray)
    • Jostling/moving of the cooler in a home directional freezing system (cooler with the top off) as this causes bubbles to form earlier

    I've been studying each of these factors carefully, as I may be contributing a section on the science of ice to the Oxford Companion to Cocktails and Spirits (which hasn't been edited/approved yet, and isn't due out for a while so don't get too excited). 

    One factor that has always confounded me is the gasses in water. We know from observation that gas in water becomes trapped in ice in the form of bubbles, whether that's in the center of an ice cube or the bottom of the block using a cooler in the freezer.

    Most kitchen sinks have aerators on them that add more air to water, so that's a factor. But there are also lots of theories (boiling water, freezing then melting then refreezing) that are meant to minimize the air in water. 

    My issue has always been: If trapped air in water is water's natural state, then if you boil the water to eliminate that air, wouldn't air just be re-absorbed into the water when it returns to room temperature?

    Dave Arnold in Liquid Intelligence asserts that you should boil the water, put it in your cooler, let it cool a bit, and then put it in the freezer. I was doubtful that this actually helps, but Dave Arnold is usually right, so I finally decided to test this.

    Click on the image below to expand it greatly. 

     

    Boiled vs unboiled water ice blocks

    Experiment

    For the first block of ice, I boiled tap water briefly, put it into the cooler, let it cool down for several hours, then froze it on the highest (warmest) setting in my home freezer. 

    For the second block of ice, I used tap water that I poured into the cooler, let it set out overnight, and froze it the same way. The theory of letting it sit overnight was that the air bubbles introduced via the sink aerator and pouring water from one vessel to another would fizz off naturally. 

    For the third block of ice, I put tap water through a Brita filter, and was generally extra careful to not introduce air by splashy pouring. (I was hoping the filtering and light handling would further reduce aeration.)

    Results: The fully cloudy, opaque (unusable) section of of the block is slightly reduced in the boiled water vs. unboiled. If I were making ice in an industrial capacity using coolers, it probably wouldn't be worth the time/effort/heat to boil the water to produce rather than getting it done 5 hours earlier and having a half an inch less usable ice. 

    However, the amount of thin streams of bubbles in the clear part, which look okay but not perfect when cut into cubes (though a bit more dramatic in pictures), seems significantly reduced in the boiled water block.

    Conclusion: Boiling water before freezing in the directional freezing system does appear to improve the clarity of ice, in particular by eliminating bubble streams in the section of ice just before the solidly cloudy final bit.

    It does not improve ice clarity on its own more than directional freezing does in the first place, and therefore won't replace directional freezing (and boiling water was the first experiment I did in trying to make clear ice eight years ago), however it can make directionally-frozen ice better. 

    It seems the natural aeration of water poured from the sink is reduced, though certainly not eliminated, by boiling the water before freezing it. 

    A future experiment (not sure if I'll actually do it) would be to let the boiled water cool down to the same temperature as the unboiled water before freezing, though I doubt this would have any impact. 

    How will I change the way I make ice at home? I will not. I try to use filtered water, frozen in a cooler, removed after 2-3 days so the cloudy bottom part hasn't formed at all. 

     

  • Bugs are Back in Your Booze

    In my latest story for SevenFifty Daily, I wrote about the return of cochineal coloring in spirits. As you probably know, Campari removed the cochineal from their formula around 2006. Now a lot of brands – some of them Campari substitutes, some not – are putting it back in. 

    Read the story here

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  • This Guy will have Visited all the World’s 50 Best Bars

    Nico de Soto of Mace in New York has visited 49 out of the World's 50 Best Bars 2016 list. He'll hit the last one shortly, and if his predictions are correct, also finish the 2017 list (announced October 5th in London) soon afterward. 

    I interviewed him for SevenFifty Daily

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