Category: cocktails

  • The Wide World of the Ward Eight

    In my latest column for FineCooking.com, I talk about how the Ward Eight cocktail is everywhere these days. 

    You know how you learn the definition of a word and then suddenly you keep hearing that word everywhere? Over the past month it has been that way with me and the Ward Eight cocktail. 

    I had just finished reading the book Drinking Boston: A History of the City and its Spirits by Stphanie Schorow, in which the author spends a great deal of time discussing this drink and its history. The Ward Eight is the most famous classic cocktail from Boston, supposedly invented at the Locke-Ober restaurant in 1898. 

    In trying to verify the date of the drink's creation, Schorow studies the history of grenadine, the pomegranate syrup used in the drink. It was a new ingredient in America right around this time.

    Coincidentally, I was also studying the history of grenadine on my website. I performed a literature review and drew some conclusions, including the surprising finding that grenadine has been made as an artificially flavored cocktail ingredient forover 100 years!

    In another coincidence, two of my favorite drink writers also decided to look into the Ward Eight in the January 2013 edition of magazines. Historian David Wondrich took a look at the cocktail's history in Imbibe magazine, and writer Wayne Curtis covered the drink in searching for the quintessential New England cocktail in Yankee magazine. 

     

    Ward eightM

    I went to look up a recipe to put on the post on Fine Cooking, and found that the Ward Eight recipe is different in nearly every book. 

    The simplest is just rye, grenadine, and lemon juice. The most complex is those ingredients plus mint, bitters, and simple syrup. 

    So I settled on a common recipe with rye, grenadine, lemon, and orange juice. Get the recipe here.

     

  • Bartenders Dosing Drinks with Acid (Phosphate)

    My latest post for the Details.com Daily Blog is about acid phosphate and its popularity in cocktails.


    Details acid phosphate

    I mention Darcy O'Neil's Fix the Pumps book, of course, as well as his line of acid phosphate and lactart.

    I name-check a few bars serving acid phosphate drinks as well, including:

    • The Ice Cream Bar in San Francisco
    • The Franklin Fountain in Philadelphia
    • Honor Kitchen & Cocktails in Emeryville
    • Russell House in Cambridge, Mass
    • Still & Stir in Worcester, Mass

    Anyway, check out the post on acid phosphate over at Details.com

     

  • Cocktail Trend Predictions for 2013 on the Details Blog

    In my latest story for Details.com, I wrote a list of five trends for cocktails in 2013. 

    Details predictions 2013

    The include low-alcohol cocktails, the butcher and bartender connection, carbonated cocktails, bulk cocktails (punches, bottles, and cocktails on tap), and new molecular techniques. 

    Check it out!

  • A Huge Interview with Camper English on Eater.com

    I've got something to say! Apparently.

    Eater.com did a big interview with me about the SF cocktail scene and now it has gone live.

    I blab about everything from the lack of molecular mixology in San Francisco to the death of muddling to the rise of carbonated cocktails. It goes on and on.

     

    Camper Vertical

    Photo by Aubrie Pick www.aubriepick.com

     

    You'll have to let me know, but I think I didn't make too much of an ass out of myself. Read the story here.

     

  • A Quick Bit on Flips on Details.com

    My most recent story for Details.com is about flips: drinks made with whole eggs.

    In the piece I talk about silver and golden fizzes, noggs, and a few places to find flips around the country.

    Go check it out!

     

  • Correct Cocktail Carbonation

    In this weekend's story in the San Francisco Chronicle, I wrote about bartenders carbonating cocktails– to order, in bottles, on tap, and in one case with nitrous oxide instead of carbon dioxide. 

    Let's look at the ways bars in the story (and a few places I didn't have room to mention) are carbonating:

    Citrus

    • Starlight Room avoids fresh citrus, saying the carbonation gives it a touch of vinegar tingle, like juice going off.
    • Jasper's Corner Tap uses fresh citrus, but makes the bottled cocktails daily.

    Champagne

    • Chez Papa uses nitrous oxide to charge ingredients that will go into champagne drinks.
    • Spoonbar uses CO2, and throws the sparkling wine into the Perlini shaker along with the other ingredients.

    Gin & Tonic

    • Brasserie S&P uses homemade tonic syrup, charges it with water in iSi canisters, and uses the canisters until they're empty. They say this better integrates the syrup with the fizzy water than just adding a syrup to water in the glass.
    • Tradition uses homemade tonic syrup but puts it in a bottled G&T.

    Long Island Iced Tea

    • Rye (this cocktail is sometimes a nightly special) uses cola syrup plus all the booze and carbonates the drink to order.
    • Tradition barrel ages the liquor, adds cola syrup, and makes a bottled cocktail with it. 

    On Tap

    • Spoonbar adds already-carbonated Mexican coke and spiced rum to a keg, and charges it with another CO2 tank.
    • I'm not positive, but I think other bars mentioned in the story that are making carbonated cocktails put non-carbonated ingredients mixed together in a keg and it pours out with carbonated water, much like a soda dispenser in a restaurant. 

    It seems bars are all still figuring out the 'best practices' for carbonating cocktails, and that makes it all the more exciting for drinkers. 

    p.s. You can also find carbonated cocktails in the Bay Area at Elixir, Garcon and The Hotsy Totsy

    Read my story in the San Francisco Chronicle here.

  • Carbonated Cocktails in the San Francisco Chronicle

    My latest story for the San Francisco Chronicle is now online. I wrote about carbonated cocktails and the many, many different approaches bartenders are taking to make them. 

    Carbonated cocktails proving popular
    By Camper English

    A little fizz can do wonders for a cocktail, making it more aromatic, lighter and a bit more dynamic.Traditionally, drinks get that fizz from mixers like ginger ale, sparkling wine or soda water. But several new carbonating devices have given bartenders the opportunity to add sparkle to almost any drink.

    Carbonating drinks directly "makes a more intense, more flavorful cocktail, as opposed to adding 2 ounces of soda water," says Cappy Sorentino, bar manager at Healdsburg's Spoonbar.

    Read the rest of the story here.

    Chez papa bartender

    At Chez Papa, Adam Chapman makes a Watermelon Carolina Cross using a carbonated cocktail shaker. Photo: The Chronicle / SF
  • Summer Whisky Cocktails in Whisky Advocate Magazine

    Holy Smokes! They put my story on Summer Whisky Cocktails on the cover of Whisky Advocate Magazine!

     

    IMG_0004

    Inside it's 7 pages of deliciousness, with recipes brought to you by:

    • Alan Akwai
    • Brendan Dorr
    • Jon Santer
    • David Delaney, Jr.
    • Larry Rice
    • Sam Ross
    • Kevin Diedrich
    • Kevin Kelpe
    • Mike Ryan

    There are swizzles and punches and highballs and bucks and smoky drinks! Run screaming to your local newsstand and pick up the Summer 2012 issue of Whisky Advocate today!

     

     

  • A Few Thousand Words on the Aviation, In German

    In the current issue of Mixology Magazine, the premier German-language bartending magazine, I have a big story about the Aviation cocktail. 

    Mixology cover 022012

    It covers a bunch of the history of the cocktail – how it originally had creme de violette and then the recipe was probably copied incorrectly and it was not made the right way again for decades. (I wrote a brief blog entry about that here.)

    Then it delves into bartenders' preferred types of gins, maraschino liqueurs, and creme de violette, plus a whole bunch of variations on the cocktail. It includes recipes from Sierra Zimei, Humberto Marques, Brendan Dorr, Jacob Grier, and Olivier Jacobs. 

    Mixology aviation
    It doesn't appear to be online yet, so I hope you German-reading print subscribers will enjoy it. 

     

  • The Golden Gate 75 Cocktail

    Ggb75_sealI created the Golden Gate 75 cocktail in tribute to the Golden Gate Bridge's 75th anniversary. They are doing a whole series of events around the anniversary with a big party on May 27th. 

    I had an idea: Golden Gate 75 is close to French 75. And if we swap out gin and lemon for Campari and orange juice, the color could match the famous "international orange" of the bridge! 

    GG75M
    It took a lot of experimenting to get the color right. I couldn't make it happen with regular orange juice (Campari wants to go pink) but luckily blood oranges had just come into season. It turns out that was the key. So then I talked to the Campari folks and they had it professionally photographed. I got the color pretty close I think. 

    Golden Gate 75
    By Camper English

    2.5 ounces California Sparkling Wine
    1 ounce Campari
    1 ounce Blood Orange Juice (Or substitute regular orange juice)
    .5 ounces Rich Simple Syrup*
    1 dash Orange Bitters (Regan's Orange Bitters No. 6 recommended)
    Orange peel for garnish

    Directions: Blood orange juice helps turn this cocktail a color resembling the Golden Gate Bridge, celebrating its 75th birthday this year. Add Campari, orange juice, simple syrup, and bitters to an ice-filled shaker. Shake and fine strain (to remove any pulp) into a champagne flute or coupe. Top with sparkling wine. Zest the orange peel over the top of the drink and drop the peel in the drink or discard.

    *Rich Simple Syrup: Heat 2 parts sugar to one part water and stir until dissolved. Store covered in the refrigerator between uses. Depending on the sweetness of sparkling wine used, you may use less simple syrup.

    Now, this drink is delicious, but it's not rocket science. There are several recipes I found online for the combination of Campari, sparkling wine, and orange juice, this is just a small adjustment with bitters and simple syrup, and of course using blood orange to make it match the bridge. 

    When I made this at home, I used aspic cutters to make a "75" out of orange peels. But they were pretty big so they kind of sank.

    GG755
    Anyway, I hope you enjoy the drink!