Category: gin

  • Thirty Four New Drink Books for Fall 2024

    Update 2: Now this list is up to 34 books

    Update 1: Detailed reviews of many of these books in my story for AlcoholProfessor are here.

    Fall 2024 booksS

     

    Citrus: A World History

    A Forager's Guide to Wild Drinks: Ferments, infusions and thirst-quenchers for every season

    Sicilian Cocktails: Contemporary Island Mixology

    Flavor Lab Creations: A Physicist’s Guide to Unique Drink Recipes

    Gin Drinker's Toolkit

    The Art of Calvados

    Cocktails from the Crypt: Terrifying Yet Delicious Concoctions Inspired by Your Favorite Horror Films

    The Mindful Mocktail: Delicious, Nutritious Non-Alcoholic Drinks to Make at Home

    MockTales: 50+ Literary Mocktails Inspired by Classic Works, Banned Books, and More

    The Official Yellowstone Bar Book: 75 Cocktails to Enjoy after the Work's Done

    Preserved: Drinks: 25 Recipes

    The Cocktail Atlas: Around the World in 200 Drinks

    Free Spirited: 60 no/low cocktail recipes for the sober curious

    The I Love Trader Joe's Cocktail Book

    A Forager's Guide to Wild Drinks

    The Whiskey Sour: A Modern Guide to the Classic Cocktail by Jeanette Hurt

    Rum A Tasting Course: A Flavor-Focused Approach to the World of Rum by Ian Burrell

    Malort: The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit by Josh Noel

    The Absinthe Forger: A True Story of Deception, Betrayal, and the World’s Most Dangerous Spirit by Evan Rail

    A Most Noble Water: Revisiting the Origins of English Gin by Anistatia R Miller and Jared M Brown

    Spirits Distilled: A Guide to the Ingredients Behind a Better Bottle by Nat Harry

    Cocktail Theory: A Sensory Approach to Transcendent Drinks by Dr. Kevin Peterson

    Behind Bars: True Crime Stories of Whiskey Heists, Beer Bandits, and Fake Million-Dollar Wines by Mike Gerrard

    Scotch: The Balmoral guide to Scottish Whisky by Cameron Ewen and Moa Reynolds

    Martini: The Ultimate Guide to a Cocktail Icon by Alice Lascelles

    The Hour of Absinthe: A Cultural History of France's Most Notorious Drink 

    The Vedge Bar Book: Plant-Based Cocktails and Light Bites for Inspired Entertaining by Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby

    The Sopranos: The Official Cocktail Book by Sarah Gualtieri and Emma Carlson Berne

    Drink Pink!: Cocktails Inspired by Barbie, Mean Girls, Legally Blonde, and More by Rhiannon Lee and Georgie Glass

    Puncheons and Flagons: The Official Dungeons & Dragons Cocktail Book

    Cocktails and Consoles: 75 Video Game-Inspired Drinks to Level Up Your Game Night by Elias Eells

     

    New Editions and Reprints

    Jigger, Beaker, & Glass: Drinking Around the World by Charles H. Baker Jr.

    Bartending Basics: More Than 400 Classic and Contemporary Cocktails for Any Occasion by Cheryl Charming

    In Fine Spirits: A Complete Guide to Distilled Drinks by Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley

    The World Atlas of Whisky 3rd Edition by Dave Broom

  • Did British Gin Come from Dutch Genever? Part 2

    Screenshot 2023-12-27 at 2.11.13 PMI watched a video by Philip Duff on the history of gin – is gin the British interpretation of Dutch genever? Or does it come from a more or less independent distilling tradition since British spirits were usually based on a neutral base distillate? 

    I watched a seminar by Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller that claims independence and wrote about that here.

    Phil Duff adds some new information about the historical use of botanics in genever and on Dutch distilling styles. 

    Duff cites a couple key pieces of information:

    • The most popular style of distillation in Holland was not distilling a beer mash with botanicals one single time [which leads some to the conclusion that gin, based on a neutral spirit base, was born independently of Holland] but 2 distillations then a third with botanicals, which is essentially how gin is made.
    • The Distiller of London contains a recipe that looks like gin but is more of an expensive medicinal liqueur, and a book published after it to "correct the mistakes" in it says differently 

    And thus he concludes basically that gin was invented in England after column distillation comes on boaord in the early 1800s, but it's a direct line of invention from Dutch distilling/genever. 

    Click the link above for Jared/Anistatia's first video, then watch Phil's video below. 

     

     

  • Fall and Winter 2022 Drink Book Preview

    So many drink books are coming out before the end of 2022 I decided to make a list of them. 

    Makephotogallery.net_1663121621761

    Links are to Amazon and they earn me an affiliate fee. 

    The Little Book of Aperitifs: 50 Classic Cocktails and Delightful Drinks

    Cheer: A Liquid Gold Holiday Drinking Guide

    The Cocktail Edit: Everything You Need to Know About How to Make All the Drinks that Matter

    The Bartender's Manifesto: How to Think, Drink, and Create Cocktails Like a Pro

    Cocktails, A Still Life: 60 Spirited Paintings & Recipes

    The Wine Bible, 3rd Edition

    Free Spirit Cocktails: 40 Nonalcoholic Drink Recipes

    New Mocktails Bible: All Occasion Guide to an Alcohol-Free, Zero-Proof, No-Regrets, Sober-Curious Lifestyle (Fox Chapel Publishing) 250 Tasty Drink Recipes Made with Fresh Ingredients

    Cocktail Time!: The Ultimate Guide to Grown-Up Fun

    Seattle Cocktails: An Elegant Collection of Over 100 Recipes Inspired by the Emerald City

    Behind the Bar: Gin: 50 Gin Cocktails from Bars Around the World

    Cocktail Botanica: 60+ Drinks Inspired by Nature

    Brand Mysticism: Cultivate Creativity and Intoxicate Your Audience

    Dicktales or Thankyous and Sluggings

    Cheers!: Cocktails & Toasts to Celebrate Every Day of the Year

    The Five-Bottle Bar: A Simple Guide to Stylish Cocktails

    A Bartender's Guide to the World: Cocktails and Stories from 75 Places

    Imbibing for Introverts: A Guide to Social Drinking for the Anti-Social

    American Rye: A Guide to the Nation's Original Spirit

    Pour Me Another: 250 Ways to Find Your Favorite Drink

    Midcentury Cocktails: History, Lore, and Recipes from America's Atomic Age

    World Cocktail Adventures: 40 Destination-Inspired Drinks

    Twist: Your Guide to Creating Inspired Craft Cocktails

    Raising the Bar: A Bottle-by-Bottle Guide to Mixing Masterful Cocktails at Home

    Steve the Bartender's Cocktail Guide: Tools – Techniques – Recipes

    Beer A Tasting Course: A Flavor-Focused Approach to the World of Beer

    The Anchor Brewing Story: America's First Craft Brewery & San Francisco's Original Anchor Steam Beer

    Classic Cocktails Done Well: Tried-and-True Recipes for the Home Bartender

    60-Second Cocktails: Amazing Drinks to Make at Home in a Minute

    How to Drink Like a Rock Star: Recipes for the Cocktails and Libations that Inspired 100 Music Legends

    Modern Classic Cocktails: 60+ Stories and Recipes from the New Golden Age in Drinks

    Bar Menu: 100+ Drinking Food Recipes for Cocktail Hours at Home

    The Cocktail Cabinet: The art, science and pleasure of mixing the perfect drink

    A Sense of Place: A journey around Scotland's whisky

    Cure: New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ’Em from the Award-Winning Bar

    Trap Kitchen: The Art of Street Cocktails

    Just a Spritz: 57 Simple Sparkling Sips with Low to No Alcohol

    Exploring the World of Japanese Craft Sake: Rice, Water, Earth

     

  • The Big Non-Alcoholic Spirits Taste Test

    For a long time I've been tracking the increasing number of non-alcoholic spirits. There are now more than 115 brands on the market. 

    I've also made hundreds of non-alcoholic cocktails with these n/a spirits (mostly Seedlip) for events, when there used to be events pre-Covid. In my opinion, these products do not perform well when you taste them neat, nor when they are mixed with carbonated beverages like soda water and tonic water.

     

    IMG_2507

     

    I have found that taste good when mixed in a basic Daiquiri or with a strongly flavored syrup, as in these recipes I shared a couple years back. Since then, I've received a lot more n/a spirits in the mail – I share new products on Instagram by the way, in case you're not already following the @alcademics account over there. 

    So I decided to lead a tasting of all the non-alcoholic spirits in my house in a Daiquiri format. Actually, I didn't taste them at all – I invited three bartenders over to my house to do it. I made one batch of sweet-and-sour mix (lime, simple syrup) and added equal parts of each n/a spirit to it. The bartenders tasted them all and I wrote down their impressions, which are recorded below. 

    After we tasted all of them, the bartenders went back through and tasted them unmixed. Boy did that ever give different reactions! And that confirmed that trying these products neat really doesn't reveal all that much about how they'll taste mixed. 

    We tried 11 gins or herbal spirits, 2 tequilas, 2 rums, and the Three Spirit line of herbal beverages. 

    The tasting notes are below (from the bartenders, opinions are not mine), and some conclusions I wrote down after the tasting notes. 

    IMG_2521

     

    Gin/Botanical Spirits
    1. Bowser Leaf –
      1. lots of licorice, playdough, elmer's glue
      2. cloves
      3. I like it, I don't think it's a gin though. Little bit of a piney finish, mentholy
    2. Seedlip Spice
      1. cloves, allspice, warm spices, like chai – cardamom,
      2. overpowering in this application but in another application it could be useful
    3. Wilderton Luster
      1. tastes like earl gray tea to everyone – tannic drying oversteeped tea
      2. acid- citric acid
      3. very low rated
    4. Sipsong Indira Tea
      1. cumin? culinary spice , caraway
      2. not so aggressive after a couple of sips
      3. "that doesn't taste like gin" – taste like Kummel
    5. Seedlip Garden
      1. they all identified it blind as seedlip garden
      2. it's its own flavor; not trying to be gin
      3. everyone enjoys
    6. Lyre's London Spirit
      1. this is bangin' i like this; banana candy; banana runts
      2. real bitter finish though,
      3. tastes like candy but that's a hard finish
      4. (turns out the finish is quinine)
    7. Damrak 0.0
      1. most like water to me
      2. a touch of apple and pear but that could be me grasping
      3. it lets the citrus shine
      4. expensive water
    8. Ginnocense
      1. taste reminds me of something chewy
      2. playdough on the nose
      3. taffy notes
      4. not gin-like
    9. Wilderton Earthen
      1. omg why! terrible
      2. cinnamon ret hots – dried out,
      3. not good in a daiquiri
      4. "sour cinnamon" and that doesn't go well together
    10. Seedlip Grove
      1. it's bitter, resiny
      2. I would not be surprised if this is what  juniper does in water distillation
      3. Musty, like when you walk into a thrift store
      4. Tastes more like gin – resiny but mellow; not the bright herby of the gin but not citrusy
      5. "interesting" i don't dislike it; it's weird, need a better application for it
    11. Fleure Floral Blend
      1. neutral
      2. wood thing going on, woody
      3. a finish more than a flavor; i don't get much
     
    Rum
    1. Fleure Spice Cane Dark Roast
      1. smells like rum, spiced rum, bubblegum
      2. smells like coffee cake
      3. workable as a rum; but rum is easier than other spirits
      4. sweeter – i feel like this has sugar in it
      5. I dont hate it but it tastes like coffee
    2. Ritual Rum Alternative
      1. banana bread
      2. tropical fruit
      3. cadaverine /decay
      4. I lke this! tastes like a daiquiri, butterscotch, caramel, but good in a daiquiri
      5. Everyone enjoys and prefers this one
     
    Tequila/Agave
    1. Fleure  Smoked Agave
      1. liquid smoke
      2. i don't hate that
      3. burnt rubber but not in a bad way; iodine
      4. everyone likes it !  – but not on its own; in this margarita
    2. Ritual Tequila Alternative
      1. "it has the cuervo smell"; mixto
      2. taste is more fruity but it smells like tequila – "smells like bad decisions"
      3. there's actual heat – spicy note – too spicy – spicy margarita
      4. pepper spice; not alcohol spice – too much of the spicness; maybe better in a long drink; if it was intended as a spicy margarita it would be fine
      5.  
     
    Liqueur Fleure Raspberry Blend
      1. soapy
      2. raspberries and violets
      3. pink lemonade –
      4. could use it as a modifier but not a base spirit – but cheaper to use raspberries in a cocktail rather than this product – could be useful as a martini style drink where you don't want to add sugar
     
     
    Herbal Liqueurs (these were tasted neat; not in a Daiquiri)
    1. Three Spirit Livener
      1. smells like tea, tastes a little like prune juice
      2. not a fan of this
      3. tons of warm spices
      4. capsaicin
      5. 1 didn't hate it, 2 hated it
    2. Three Spirit Social Elixir
      1. molasses
      2. bitter, burnt caramel
      3. not pleasant
      4. i could sub that for Averna in a cocktail
    3. Three Spirit  Nightcap
      1. something sour in the smell
      2. kinda like it – juicy
      3. spice in all of them, well integrated
      4. favorite of the Three Spirit line
      5. after-dinner beverage, one bartender would serve it as a digestif to a non-drinker after dinner

    Conclusions of this Tasting:

    • This is a good way to taste/compare these products. When we went back through to taste them neat, bartenders had some radically different opinions; particularly with regard to the spicy notes that may have gone unnoticed mixed. 
    • Lyre's London Spirit- people liked flavor a lot but didn't like the quinine finish at all.
    • Seedlip Garden was enjoyed and identified easily – the favorite product of the whole tasting.
    • Seedlip Grove was considered interesting and generally well-received.
    • Every one wished there was juniper present in the gins, and found that none had any detectable. So none were really gin substitutes.
    • "I wish more of them were better" said one bartender. 
    • The rums and tequilas overall tasted more like their alcoholic versions. 

     

    IMG_2541

     

  • All the Cocktail and Drink Books from 2020 for Reading or Gifting

    It's time for the annual Alcademics drink book round-up! Below are all the books that have come to my attention in 2020. I don't follow wine/beer closely so there are only a few in that section. 

    The links below are to Amazon and to Bookshop.org. If you buy stuff after clicking on a link, I may receive a referral fee, thanks! If there is just one link, that's to Amazon as I only started using Bookshop mid-way through the year – you can always click over to Bookshop and search there. Bookshop.org allows you to order from small bookstores directly, or buy from a general fund that supports independent bookstores. 

     

     

    Whiskey Books

    41qEbUqNtIL._SX316_BO1 204 203 200_Whiskey Master Class: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding Scotch, Bourbon, Rye, and More by Lew Bryson

    The Definitive Guide to Canadian Distilleries: The Portable Expert to Over 200 Distilleries and the Spirits they Make (From Absinthe to Whisky, and Everything in Between) by Davin de Kergommeaux and Blair Phillips

    Which Fork Do I Use with My Bourbon?: Setting the Table for Tastings, Food Pairings, Dinners, and Cocktail Parties by Peggy Noe Stevens and Susan Reigler 

    Whisky, it's not rocket science by Mickael Guidot

    Canadian Spirits: The Essential Cross-Country Guide to Distilleries, Their Spirits, and Where to Imbibe Them by Stephen Beaumont and Christine Sismondo 

    51afRqSoTsL._SX331_BO1 204 203 200_Scotch: A Complete Introduction to Scotland’s Whiskies by Margarett Waterbury  buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    The Curious Bartender’s Guide to Malt, Bourbon & Rye Whiskies by Tristan Stephenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The Sazerac by Tim McNally [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Beginner's Guide to Whiskey: Traditions, Types, and Tastes of the Ultimate Spirit by Sam Green  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    The Terroir of Whiskey: A Distiller's Journey Into the Flavor of Place by Rob Arnold  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    American Spirit: Wild Turkey Bourbon from Ripy to Russell by David Jennings  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Other Spirits: Gin, Rum 

    51vBdm4PpeL._SX357_BO1 204 203 200_Gin: How to Drink it: 125 Gins, 4 Ways by Dave Broom [Amazon

    The Curious Bartender’s Guide to Rum by Tristan Stephenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

     

     

     

    Brand Books

    Seedlip Cocktails: 100 Delicious Nonalcoholic Recipes from Seedlip & The World's Best Bars by Seedlip

    Bok-char_web1Chartreuse, The Liqueur [CocktailKingdom]

    A Long Stride: The Story of the World's No. 1 Scotch Whisky by Nicholas Morgan  buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Science Food and Drink Books

    418mGG7kVHL._SX376_BO1 204 203 200_Science and Cooking: Physics Meets Food, From Homemade to Haute Cuisine by Michael Brenner, Pia Sörensen, David Weitz  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Nose Dive: A Field Guide to the World's Smells by Harold McGee: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    The Flavor Equation: The Science of Great Cooking Explained in More Than 100 Essential Recipes  by Nik Sharma  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Beer, Wine, Vermouth, Sake, Fermentation 

    61Dpkit3R2L._SX309_BO1 204 203 200_Beer: Taste the Evolution in 50 Styles by Natalya Watson

    A Spirited Guide to Vermouth: An Aromatic Journey with Botanical Notes, Classic Cocktails and Elegant Recipes by Jack Adair Bevan 

    How to Make Hard Seltzer: Refreshing Recipes for Sparkling Libations by Chris Colby [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Wine, Unfiltered: Buying, Drinking, and Sharing Natural Wine by Katherine Clary [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Hugh Johnson s Pocket Wine Book by Hugh Johnson [Amazon

    The Wine Game by Zeren Wilson [Buy]

    The Japanese Sake Bible: Everything You Need to Know About Great Sake (With Tasting Notes and Scores for Over 100 Top Brands)  by Brian Ashcraft  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Journey of Sake: Stories and Wisdom from an Ancient Tradition [Amazon]

    Fermentation as Metaphor  by Sandor Ellix Katz  [Amazon] [Bookshop]

     

     

    411Bcmkd-oL._SX331_BO1 204 203 200_History Books

    Rabbinic Drinking: What Beverages Teach Us About Rabbinic Literature by Jordan D. Rosenblum

    How to Drink: A Classical Guide to the Art of Imbibing (Ancient Wisdom for Modern Readers) by Vincent Obsopoeus [Amazon] [Bookshop]

     

     

     

    Non-Alcoholic Drinks

    How to Drink without Drinking: Celebratory alcohol-free drinks for any time of the day by Fiona Beckett [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    9781984856340Good Drinks: Alcohol-Free Recipes for When You're Not Drinking for Whatever Reason by Julia Bainbridge [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    FIZZ: A Beginners Guide to Making Natural, Non-Alcoholic Fermented Drinks
    by Elise van Iterson and Barbara Serulus

    Zero: A New Approach to Non-Alcoholic Drinks  [Amazon] [The Aviary]

     

     

     

    41q5TY-mxkL._SX331_BO1 204 203 200_Bartending: Narrative and Professional

    Unvarnished: A Gimlet-eyed Look at Life Behind the Bar by Eric Alperin and Deborah Stoll

    Bartender as a Business: Building Agency from Craft by Jason Littrell  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

     

    Botanical Focus and Witchcraft 

    51tX57Rj7nL._SX373_BO1 204 203 200_Garden to Glass: Grow Your Drinks from the Ground Up by Mike Wolf

    Wild Remedies: How to Forage Healing Foods and Craft Your Own Herbal Medicine by Rosalee de la Forêt and Emily Han 

    WitchCraft Cocktails: 70 Seasonal Drinks Infused with Magic & Ritual by Julia Halina Hadas [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Potions, Elixirs & Brews: A modern witches' grimoire of drinkable spells by Anais Alexandre  [buy on Bookshop ] [buy on Amazon]

    Blackthorn's Botanical Brews: Herbal Potions, Magical Teas, and Spirited Libations by Amy Blackthorn  [buy on Bookshop ] [buy on Amazon]

     

    Cocktail Books

     

    General/Classic/Historic Cocktail Books

    51eciGNJ9RL._SX363_BO1 204 203 200_Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails: Prohibition Centennial Edition: From the 1920 Pick-Me-Up to the Zombie and Beyond – 150+ Rediscovered Recipes … With a New Introduction and 66 New Recipes  by Ted Haigh (Author)

    Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails by John deBary 

    Spirited: Cocktails from around the World by Adrienne Stillman [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The New Craft of the Cocktail: Everything You Need to Know to Think Like a Master Mixologist, with 500 Recipes by Dale DeGroff [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    On the House: Over 100 Essential Tips and Recipes for the Home Bartender by Cider Mill Press buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Classic Cocktails by Brian D. Hoefling  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Splash: Modern Classic Cocktails by Ivy Mix (Author), Whoo Kid  [Amazon]

    CO Specs: Recipes & Histories of Classic Cocktails by Cas Oh  [Amazon]

     

     

    Themed Cocktail Books

    41s2l11kAVL._SX396_BO1 204 203 200_The Good Reverend's Guide to Infused Spirits: Alchemical Cocktails, Healing Elixirs, and Cleansing Solutions for the Home and Bar by Steven Grasse, Sonia Kurtz, Michael Alan

    Camp Cocktails: Easy, Fun, and Delicious Drinks for the Great Outdoors by Emily Vikre 

    Drinking with Chickens: Free-Range Cocktails for the Happiest Hour by Kate E. Richards

    Easy Tiki: A Modern Revival with 60 Recipes by Chloe Frechette 

    Disco Cube Cocktails: 100+ innovative recipes for artful ice and drinks by Leslie Kirchhoff

    Essential 3-Ingredient Cocktails: 75 Classic And Contemporary Drinks To Make At Home by Amy Traynor 

    Pink Gin: More than 30 pink-hued cocktails  

    Optimistic Cocktails Vol 1 

     Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails. 

    Behind the Bar: 50 Cocktail Recipes from the World's Most Iconic Hotels by Alia Akkam [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Fizz: 80 Joyful Cocktails and Mocktails for Every Occasion by Olly Smith [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    51PEMjShYAL._SX394_BO1 204 203 200_Beautiful Booze: Stylish Cocktails to Make at Home by Natalie Migliarini and James Stevenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The Cocktail Dictionary: An A-Z of cocktail recipes, from Daiquiri and Negroni to Martini and Spritz by Henry Jeffreys [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Peaky Blinders Cocktail Book: 40 Cocktails Selected by The Shelby Company Ltd by Sandrine Houdre-Gregoire [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The Shaken and the Stirred: The Year's Work in Cocktail Culture (The Year's Work: Studies in Fan Culture and Cultural Theory)  Edited by Stephen Schneider and Craig N. Owens [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    T𝗵𝗲 𝗧𝗼𝗮𝘀𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗥𝗲𝗺𝗼𝘁𝗲 𝗛𝗼𝘀𝘁𝘀 by Grade A Fancy Magazine [buy]

    Star Trek Cocktails: A Stellar Compendium by Glenn Dakin  buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Classy as Fuck Cocktails: 60+ Damn Good Recipes for All Occasions buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Shake Strain Done: Craft Cocktails at Home by J. M. Hirsch  buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Tequila & Tacos: A Guide to Spirited Pairings by Katherine Cobbs buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Queer Cocktails: 50 Cocktail Recipes Celebrating Gay Icons and Queer Culture by Lewis Laney [Bookshop]

    9781925811704Drinks on the Lanai: Cocktails, Mocktails And Cheesecake Inspired By The Golden Girls by Elouise Anders  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    The Aviary: Summer Cocktails [The Aviary]

    Give Me Liberty and Give Me a Drink!: 65 Cocktails to Protest America’s Most Outlandish Alcohol Laws  by C. Jarrett Dieterle 

    Very Merry Cocktails: 50+ Festive Drinks for the Holiday Season by Jessica Strand  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Winter Drinks: Over 75 recipes to warm the spirits including hot drinks, fortifying toddies, party cocktails and mocktails [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Bar L.M. by Lindsay Matteson [etsy]

    How to Drink Like a Royal by Albert W. A. Schmid  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Have Yourself a Merry Little Cocktail: 80 Cheerful Tipples to Warm up Winter by Emma Stokes [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Düngeonmeister: 75 Epic RPG Cocktail Recipes to Shake Up Your Campaign by Jef Aldrich, Jon Taylor  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Drink Books Tied to Places

    418OG1OJk7L._SX383_BO1 204 203 200_Distilled in Vermont: A History & Guide with Cocktail Recipes by Chris Maggiolo [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The United States of Cocktails: Recipes, Tales, and Traditions from All 50 States (and the District of Columbia) by Brian Bartels [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Behind Bars: High Class Cocktails Inspired by Low Life Gangsters by Vincent Pollard [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Spirits of Latin America: A Celebration of Culture & Cocktails, with 100 Recipes from Leyenda & Beyond by Ivy Mix 

    Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes by David Lebovitz 

    The Pikes Cocktail Book: Rock 'n' roll cocktails from one of the world's most iconic hotels by Dawn Hindle

    41H4HjMTchL._SX336_BO1 204 203 200_Apotheke: Modern Medicinal Cocktails by Christopher Tierney, Erica Brod  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Drink-Culture Related Books

    The Book of Ichigo Ichie: The Art of Making the Most of Every Moment, the Japanese Way  by Héctor García and Francesc Miralles

     

     

     

     

     

  • Distilling Honey Into Vodka: An Interview with Caledonia Spirits Owner/Distiller Ryan Christiansen

    Years ago when I first heard of – and tried- Barr Hill Gin, it was a revelation. The gin is neutral spirits with added juniper and honey- that's it. The honey brings with it other aromatics from the flora the bees feed on. 

    The gin is made by Caledonia Spirits in Vermont. A recent press release stated: 

    Caledonia Spirits is known best for its flagship gins, but the distillery's Barr Hill Vodka is a truly unique offering within the vodka category. Made entirely from raw northern honey and nothing else (~3000 lbs per batch), it’s distilled only twice – a stark contrast from many of the popular vodkas that get distilled 3-5 (or more) times and filtered to oblivion. Vodka was traditionally thought of as a spirit that became better the more times it was filtered, but doing so leaves a spirit that is completely odorless and tasteless.

    Knowing just how beautiful of an ingredient the raw northern honey is, Caledonia Spirits wanted to flip tradition on its head and create a vodka that retains some of the flavor and aroma from its sugar source. Distilling and filtering it too many times would totally lose the honey flavor, but thanks to Caledonia Spirits’ unique process, the resulting vodka is fragrant and flavorful…yet not sweet at all. The honey tasting notes are very subtle, but they’re present enough to tell you that you’re not having the same neutral-tasting vodka that is so often served. Every year, Caledonia Spirits purchases 60,000-80,000 pounds of raw honey from beekeepers within a 250-mile radius of the distillery.

    Sine then, the brand has released a vodka and a barrel-aged gin.  I hadn't tried the vodka before. It is absolutely waxy almost to the point of greasy, with notes of Honey Nuts Cheerios, and I think I love it. 

     

    Screen Shot 2020-07-29 at 6.22.56 PM

     

    I was given the opportunity to interview Caledonia Spirits Owner/Distiller Ryan Christiansen, so that's just what I did! 

    Is the base of Barr Hill Gin purchased grain neutral spirits (plus honey and juniper)? Or is there distilled honey spirit in it also?

    The base of Barr Hill Gin is grain neutral. It is then distilled in one of our two custom-built botanical extraction stills with Juniper. The spirit is proofed down with raw honey and our water.

     

    Is Barr Hill Vodka 100% distilled from honey or is it a blend of GNS and distilled honey? If a blend can you give an approximate ratio? 

    Barr Hill Vodka is distilled entirely from raw northern honey.

     

    I see several stills in the image on the website – the big pot and a small and tall finishing column. Which set-up do you use to make the gin vs the vodka?  

    Our gin is distilled in Irene and Ramona, two custom-built botanical extraction stills. Our vodka is distilled twice, once through a pot stripping run, then through the column still to 190 proof.

     

    88347072_3058134717532525_8511479553980366848_oImages stolen from Barr Hill.

     

    Is the honey sold by the pound? Is there a standard conversion for pounds of honey to liquid volume? Do you know the liquid volume of honey for the "60,000-80,000 pounds" you buy annually? 

    We purchase our honey by the 55 gallon drum, which holds about 650lbs of honey. In the last year we’ve used over 67,000 lbs to make our spirits. Each bottle of vodka requires 3-4 pounds of raw honey to make. Where we fall in that range from 3-4 depends on the batch size. 

    We do also sell our honey by the pound for use by bartenders and chefs.

     

    For fermenting/distilling honey, do you dilute to a certain standardized sugar level (and do you measure this in BRIX) before fermentation? Can you say what that level is? 

    We pitch yeast at 24 brix, and ferment to dry.

     

    How long does fermentation take? I imagine it's super fast. 

    Honey fermentations are much slower than grain fermentations, usually about 2-3 weeks to dry.

     

    Do you temperature control the fermentation? Do you let it go longer into a malolactic fermentation? If not, is there a reason, such as it becomes disgusting? 

    We control fermentation temperatures with a water jacket on the fermenter. Honey fermentations don’t need much cooling. Our grain fermentations for whiskey production require much more heat extraction. We do not let our fermentations go to malolactic.

     

    What's the ABV you get after fermentation? 

    Approx 12%.

     

    You say you never heat the honey prior to fermentation, would heating it make it lose flavor/blow off volatile aromatics? (If I'm making a honey simple syrup should I not heat the water?) 

    This is a hard question to answer without a deep conversation. In short, it really depends on the honey. The botanical influence of the bees foraging varies significantly between honeys. As a general rule, keep the honey raw (below 110 degrees) when possible.

    Obviously, our distillation process cooks our honey, but that occurs after fermentation. We’ve found it crucial to keep the honey raw during fermentation to develop and accentuate flavors that will stay intact through distillation.

     

    105482665_3332294440116550_6815040999433764063_o

     

    And if you don't heat it and you do add water, is it very hard to mix? What do you use to mix it? Do you need specialized equipment for handling honey? It all seems incredibly sticky. 

    In our early days, it was a food grade shovel, bucket, electric drill, and a paint paddle with many trips up the ladder to the top of the fermenter. It was sticky and backbreaking, but it worked. We’ve added some fancy honey pumps and circulation lines in our fermenters that have made our lives a little easier. The honey is a sugar so with enough movement, it’ll dissolve. Keeping it raw certainly adds some challenges, but it’s essential for the finished spirit.  

     

    When purchasing huge volumes of honey as you do, how does that honey come? In what sort of container? 

    Beautiful reused and dented metal drums. Beekeepers never throw them away, they just keep traveling around the world. Even local honey is often delivered with old stickers and labels from all over the world.

     

    Clearly as a vodka, you distill the fermented honey up to 95% to be a member of the category. I remember researching a while back to find that there wasn't a standardized terminology for what you'd call a lower-ABV honey distillate (other than "honey spirit") – some brands were calling their products "honey rum" for example. I'm wondering if you've heard any sort of consensus on this or your opinion on what to call honey spirit that isn't distilled to the vodka ABV?

    I’ve heard a handful of terms. My favorite is Somel. This is an initiative led by a handful of distillers working with honey. https://somel.org/

     

    Thanks to Caledonia Spirits for answering my questions!

     

    101387028_3266727603339901_2985417413668896768_o

     

  • The Use of Fixatives in Tea-Flavored Gin: A Chat with Gerald Rowland of Coit Spirits

    It's a welcome exception to the hundreds of National Mimosa Day and other generic pitches about liquor I receive to get an email from someone who wants to talk technical details of production, and this post comes from one of them. 

    Gerald Rowland of Rowland Cellars and more relevantly Coit Spirits sent me an email teasing information about using fixatives in the recipe for his three gins that each call for tea:

    Earl Grey Gin – with black tea and bergamot 

    Cape Gin – with fermented rooibos tea (red bush)

    Caravan Gin – with tea smoked over pine needles

    He wrote, "It took 12 months research on finding the correct plant based fixatives to stabilize the tea character that typically dissipates in 4-7 days. Normal gin botanical fixatives don't work."

    Was I intrigued? Yes, yes I was. 

    Coit spirits gins8

     

    Fixatives in Gin

    In my various distillery visits over the years, distillers would say that certain botanicals act not so much as flavors on their own, but as fixatives to other desired botanicals' aromas. 

    Aaron Knoll wrote a very informative article for Distiller Magazine about fixatives in gin. I'll share a few relevant quotes:

    The New Perfume Handbook describes a fixative as an “ingredient which prolongs the retention of fragrance on skin,” and is also sometimes described as “tenacity.” The other definition is summed up by The Chemistry of Fragrances as “a property of some perfume components, usually the higher boiling ones, which enables them to fix or hold back the more volatile notes so that they do not evaporate so quickly.” A fixative keeps the scent around longer. In the world of spirit production and distillation, we’re talking about the second definition.

    The Perfume Handbook, published in 1992, lists 42 separate botanicals with fixative properties. Orris root and angelica, the two most often cited by gin distillers as being fixatives, are both present; however, so are some other common gin ingredients, such as coriander and woodruff that are rarely—if ever—granted that status.

    The article concludes:

    The literature on the topic of fixatives suggests that the effect in spirits and gin may not be big—or even there at all. 

    Furthermore, even in a profession where there is a tradition of considering fixatives in the design process, perfumer Josh Meyer explains that the process is still more artistic than analytical. 

     

    Back to Coit Spirits and Gerry Rowland. He wrote, "Most gins that have tea in their recipe usually don’t advertise it on the label (some state tea, but I have to look for it and wouldn’t have known tea was used unless I was told) as the tea is unstable and progressively dominated by the other botanicals in the recipe over time." 

    For most of the content below I have copied and pasted and moved some stuff around from Rowland's email and our back-and-forth conversation. 

     

    Tea is in the Tails

    Black & Red teas brew at 200-212F to release their flavor [just below the boiling point of water], but London dry gin distillations are usually 176-185 F [just above the boiling point of alcohol].

    The tea notes in my experience will not come over unless it comes with the water late in the distillation. I have found the tea is water soluble, not alcohol soluble.

    To achieve this higher wash temp you use a lower ABV wash so the temp is higher to bring the spirit over. There is a second benefit at higher wash temperature, in that there is a true Maillard reaction of the botanicals in the wash providing a complex natural sweetness so these tea gins are made without adding sugar and yet still friendly to the palate putting them in a sip-able arena. 

    The tea [notes] comes over late in the distillation, usually after the tails cut of most London Dry Gin recipes as the root/bark botanicals are too harsh, triggering the earlier tails cut. The solution was to break away from traditional botanicals that trigger an early tails cut so you can capture the tea notes avoiding the harsh flavored botanicals.

    In other words, some botanicals of traditional gins would need to be left behind so that they didn't interfere with the tea notes in the tails cut. 

    Tea Fixatives in Gin

    I spent as much time solving this as I did working on the recipe and the above. The tea molecules are highly charged and bind with the other botanicals. In doing so there is a polymerization of botanical molecules that provide mouthfeel but the tea definition is lost as the molecule gets too large for our sensors to perceive them. This usually takes 4-7 days and occurs if the tea is distilled or steeped. 

    After 4-7 days steeping you have tannin expression but the subtle character of an individual leaf is lost. This fine tea character loss occurs irrespective if you steep in water or distill, the tea character immediately starts degrading post production of the liquid and after 4-7 days lapse post production the fine tea notes are gone.

    When distilling with tea the tails cut is before the tannin comes over so you capture the essence of the fine tea character note without the aggressive tannin body of the tea.

    So the tails cut of the gin is between the tea flavor and the tannins, if tannins come over at all in distillation. 

    There is an argument I have heard that gin doesn’t need fixatives, this might be true for spirit-based aromas & flavors of London Dry gins, but for water-based aromas & flavors missed in most LDGs (London Dry Gins) because of the earlier tails cut. In my experience I find them critical for water based aromas & botanicals. People who make tea extracts find the same as does the perfume industry and why we have fixatives from a century old industry.

    There may be a case that if you don’t have any water based flavors & aromas that fixatives don’t matter and this may be true for many LDGs. 

    For me the solution was to look to the perfume industry at fixative botanicals that the right lock & key configuration to bind onto the tea molecules active polarized sites to keep it a small and discrete molecule blocking its charged receptor sights from other botanicals. Although this creates a stable molecule larger than the tea molecule it is still small enough that we can perceive it with our sensors.

    Trial and Error and Three Fixatives

    When I look at a fixative being successful for Coit Gin it has needed to both protect the aroma and promote lingering. 

    The perfume industry uses the fixatives at much higher rates being at 100-1000 times higher than the rate I use in Coit gin to achieve tea stability. Fixatives in perfume can affect the product in 3 or more ways.

    1) They can be an ingredient directly providing an aroma.

    2) Provide fixative qualities to unstable aromas, protecting the aroma character.

    3) Increasing the persistence intensity and lingering ability of an aroma.

    As far as fixative use in Coit gin it’s for stability its strictly points 2&3 from above, protecting aroma character & increasing the longevity or persistence of the aroma.

    It took three fixatives botanicals to truly achieve stability and that were FDA-approved for consumption, as perfumes are topical whereas gin is internal. This took multiple parallel experiments to determine the rate of each fixative with each other.

    The first fixative took stability out to 30 days at which time a small change was noted indicating a second fixative was required as more of the first fixative didn’t help. The second fixative extended the stability out to 90 days with a small change requiring a third fixative. The third fixative achieved stability.

    If these experiments had been done consecutively instead of parallel it would take 1-2 decades before you would have these results. I tested many more than the 3 final plant based botanical fixatives when I went into production as no single fixative would do the job.

    Once we worked out the maximum levels to prove stability we had to retest to minimum levels so the fixative botanicals did their job but did not influence the character of the recipe.

    Parallels in Perfumery

    I asked Rowland if he could share any examples of perfume fixatives (certain he wouldn't want to reveal the specific three used in Coit gins) so that we could have an idea of how they work. He wrote: 

    I provide the following selection as an example from Eden Botanicals

    Note: I make no representation as to their FDA approval for use in USA.

    Some Common Fixatives:

    Amyris: Has a very tenacious, rich, complex odor that quickly fades out to a weak woody-balsamic scent, but is still a well-known fixative; it finds extensive application as a mild blender in numerous types of perfumes and blends well with lavandin, oakmoss, citronella, rose, Virginia cedarwood, etc.

    Clary Sage: Has an herbal-sweet, nut-like fragrance with unusual tenacity; somewhat heavy with a balsamic, ambergris-like dryout reminiscent of tobacco, sweet hay, and tea leaves. An excellent fixative that can be used with perfumes of a more delicate bouquet, and with bergamot, cedarwood, citronella, cognac, cypress, geranium, frankincense, grapefruit, jasmine, juniper, labdanum, lavender, lime, and sandalwood.

    Liquidambar (Styrax): Has a very rich, sweet-balsamic, faintly floral, somewhat spicy aroma, with a peculiar styrene topnote and resinous, animalic, amber-like undertones; to be used most sparingly and has excellent fixative qualities. An important element in lilac, narcissus, jonquil, hyacinth, jasmine, tuberose, and wisteria bases; it also blends well with ylang-ylang, rose, lavender, carnation, violet, cassie and spice oils. Benign solvent (ethanol) extracted Resinoid.

    Oakmoss: Has a heavy, rich earthy-mossy, bark-like and extremely tenacious fragrance with a high fixative value; blends well with virtually all other oils, including lavender and ylang-ylang. Used to lend body and rich natural undertones to all perfume types.

    The Choice of Fixatives for Coit Gins

    On the brand's website, they list that there are 10 botanicals in the Earl Grey gin. I asked if the three final fixatives were counted among them. 

    The fixative botanicals are counted separate as they are at so low rates and don’t contribute flavor. My mindset was when I provide the botanical number it is about botanicals that provide the flavor and you could identify in the gin spirit.

    I asked if the fixatives in Coit gins are detectable flavors, or if they're purely functional. 

    It took many months once finding the 3 to achieve the absolute minimum required of each when working in conjunction with each other.

    At these low levels if I increase a fixative botanical rate I can see a change in expression of the tea notes but cannot pick the characteristic of the fixative itself. So the rates at these low levels are very critical. Different rates will have different effects. Fixatives are very dynamic on their rate of use effect as to protecting the aroma, persistence of the aroma and subtly influencing the aroma it is working on to swing it from a slightly savory floral note to a slightly sweeter floral note.

    All 3 fixatives originate from plants i.e. root, leaf, flower, bark, stem. I also tested many highly processed plant compounds and other non-plant compounds to see what worked best, but none of the alternatives were as good as the 3 I found. In Coit’s case I was fortunate with the 3 that I found, were all of plant origin and in alignment of my mindset of a natural, vegan friendly product.

    I didn't get the vegan-friendly thing until I later read the fixative article in Distiller magazine linked above, which states, "Throughout the history of perfume, the most important fixatives have been heavy, animal-derived products. Musk from civets and ambergris from whales are among those derived from fauna, however, distillers tend to draw their fixative heritage from the flora side of things."

    So all of that is very interesting, and nothing I'd spent much time thinking about previously. I hope you enjoyed geeking out with me. 

     

    Other Products

    Worth mentioning is that Coit Spirits also has a bourbon on the market and potentially a fourth gin on the way. 

    The bourbon is as transparent as the gin. From the website:

    Indiana Straight Bourbon Whiskey, High Rye, Four Grain, 49% ABV

    Distilled and aged on site in Indiana at MGP 

    Unique for MGP is the 4 grain bourbon, the corn and rye provide the backbone, the wheat uplifts both aroma & flavor, and the barley harmonizes the three.

    Straight Bourbon Whiskey, straight from the barrel, assembled, proofed and into the bottle. No charcoal or cold filtration. 49% ABV

     

    And about that fourth gin we may see in the future:

    I am also working on a truly indigenous gin to the Pacific Ocean and coastal Pacific Ranges of the West Coast USA. I am 2+ years into this recipe and 80% there but still working on the finish.

    Some producers have a ‘local or native gin’ these usually contain botanicals that were never indigenous to their region with local but ‘introduced botanicals’ or cross bred sub species; for example a citrus developed/cross bred in Riverside so technically from the USA, but citrus as a species never existed indigenously in the USA in the first place.

    So credit to those producers for being creative but it highlights the difficulty in a truly indigenous recipe that I am working as opposed to native or local.

     

    I look forward to trying the gins (and bourbon) out now and the native gin down the line. 

     

    Coit spirits gins6

  • All the Cocktail and Spirits Books Released in 2019

    It's time for my annual post of (almost) all the cocktails and spirits books published this year, in consideration for gifting to others or keeping to read yourself. I know my shelf of to-read books is looking pretty menacing already, and I still have to buy some of these. 

    If I forgot your favorite book please do let me know and I'll add it! I am not excluding any cocktails/spirits books on purpose. 

    Links are to Amazon.com but you are encouraged to support your local independent bookstores when possible. 

     

    6a00e553b3da2088340240a49bad3e200d.jpgLow and No Alcohol

    Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water by Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt

    Alcohol-Free Cocktails: The Redemption Bar by Catherine Salway and Andrea Waters

    All Day Cocktails: Low (And No) Alcohol Magic by Shaun Byrne and Nick Tesar

    The Art of the Garnish by Leeann Lavin

     

     

    Gin Books 

    The Martini Cocktail: A Meditation on the World's Greatest Drink, with Recipes by Robert Simonson 

    Sip: 100 gin cocktails with just three ingredients by Sipsmith 

    6a00e553b3da2088340240a4d8bc80200b.jpgThe World Atlas of Gin by Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley

    The Big Book of Gin by Dan Jones

    Gin Made Me Do It: 60 Beautifully Botanical Cocktails by Jassy Davis 

    Ginspiration: The Best Distilleries, Infusions, and Cocktails by Klaus St. Rainer 

    Gin Cocktails: Classic & contemporary cocktails by Hamlyn 

    Aged Gin Cocktails: 25 Cocktails for Gin's Newest Style by Aaron J Knoll 

     

    International Books

    The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks: Sake, Shochu, Japanese Whisky, Beer, Wine, Cocktails and Other Beverages by Stephen Lyman, Chris Bunting 

    Great Northern Cocktails by Shawn Soole

    Drunk in China: Baijiu and the World’s Oldest Drinking Culture by Derek Sandhaus

     

    6a00e553b3da2088340240a4b42e4b200d.jpgWhisky Books

    World of Whisky: Taste, Try and Enjoy Whiskies From Around the World by David Wishart, Neil Ridley

    The Complete Whiskey Course: A Comprehensive Tasting School in Ten Classes by Robin Robinson

    The Whisky Dictionary: An A Z of whisky, from history & heritage to distilling & drinking by Ian Wisniewski

    Whisky Cocktails by Hamlyn

    The Bourbon King: The Life and Crimes of George Remus, Prohibition's Evil Genius by Bob Batchelor

    Jim Murray's Whiskey Bible 2020: North American Edition by Jim Murray

     


    6a00e553b3da2088340240a444b248200c.jpgRum and Tiki 

    Rum Cocktails by Hamlyn

    The Home Bar Guide to Tropical Cocktails: A Spirited Journey Through Suburbia’s Hidden Tiki Temples by Tom Morgan and Kelly Reilly 

    Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails by Shannon Mustipher

    Minimalist Tiki by Matt Pietrek and Carrie Smith

    A Rum Tale: Spirit of the New World by Joseph Piercy 

    (new translation) D. KERVÉGANT – Rhum and Cane Eau-de-vie (1946)

     

    Other Spirits

    That's the Spirit!: 100 of the world's greatest spirits and liqueurs to drink with style by Jonathan Ray 

    The Tequila Dictionary by Eric Zandona

    Understanding Mezcal by James Schroeder

     

    6a00e553b3da2088340240a48a126d200c.jpgMisc Recipe Books 

    Schofields Classic Cocktail Cabinet by Joe Schofield, Daniel SchofieldHow to Cocktail: Recipes and Techniques for Building the Best Drinks by America's Test Kitchen

    Gather Around Cocktails: Drinks to Celebrate Usual and Unusual Holidays by Aaron Goldfarb

    Vogue Cocktails by Henry McNulty 

    Cocktails with a Twist: 21 Classic Recipes. 141 Great Cocktails. by Kara Newman

    Flask: 41 Portable Cocktails to Drink Anywhere by Sarah Baird 

    Happy Hour: The Cocktail Card Game by Laura Gladwin and Marcel George

    Spirits, Sugar, Water, Bitters: How the Cocktail Conquered the World by Derek Brown and Robert Yule

    The Complete Home Bartender's Guide: Tools, Ingredients, Techniques, & Recipes for the Perfect Drink by Salvatore Calabrese 

    Bar Chef: Handcrafted Cocktails by Christiaan Rollich

    Batch Cocktails: Make-Ahead Pitcher Drinks for Every Occasion by Maggie Hoffman

    6a00e553b3da2088340240a4a0eb13200c.jpgFloral Libations: 41 Fragrant Drinks + Ingredients by Cassie Winslow

    From Garden to Glass: 80 Botanical Beverages Made from the Finest Fruits, Cordials, and Infusions by David Hurst

    French Moderne: Cocktails from the Twenties and Thirties with recipes by Franck Audoux

    Fancy AF Cocktails: Drink Recipes from a Couple of Professional Drinkers by Ariana Madix, Tom Sandoval

    The Postmodern Bartender by Hayden Wood

    The NoMad Cocktail Book by Leo Robitschek

    The Aviary: Holiday Cocktails  by Grant Achatz, Nick Kokonas, Allen Hemberger

    How to Cocktail: Recipes and Techniques for Building the Best Drinks by America's Test Kitchen

    Let's Get Blitzen: 60+ Christmas Cocktails to Make Your Spirits Bright by Sother Teague

     

     

    Misc Books: Industry, Bitters, Distilling

    Botany at the Bar: The Art and Science of Making Bitters by Selena Ahmed, Ashley Duval, Rachel Meyer 

    How To Get U.S. Market-Ready: Wine and Spirits by Steve Raye

    The Art of Distilling, Revised and Expanded: An Enthusiast's Guide to the Artisan Distilling of Whiskey, Vodka, Gin and other Potent Potables by Bill Owens, Alan Dikty, Andrew Faulkner

     

    6a00e553b3da2088340240a4c051c9200b.jpgCocktail and Culture Books

    The Official Downton Abbey Cocktail Book: Appropriate Libations for All Occasions 

    Shaken: Drinking with James Bond and Ian Fleming, the Official Cocktail Book

    Last Call: Bartenders on Their Final Drink and the Wisdom and Rituals of Closing Time by Brad Thomas Parsons

    Are You Afraid of the Dark Rum?: and Other Cocktails for '90s Kids  by Sam Slaughter

    Drink Like a Geek: Cocktails, Brews, and Spirits for the Nerd in All of Us by Jeff Cioletti 

    A Sidecar Named Desire: Great Writers and the Booze That Stirred Them by Greg Clarke and Monte Beauchamp

    Gin Austen: 50 Cocktails to Celebrate the Novels of Jane Austen by Colleen Mullaney 

    Gin Rummy: Gin Lovers Playing Cards by Emma Stokes and Jean Andre

    Glass and Gavel: The U.S. Supreme Court and Alcohol by Nancy Maveety

    Bourbon Justice: How Whiskey Law Shaped America by Brian F. Haara 

     

    Beer, Cider, and Wine Books 

    6a00e553b3da2088340240a4b36012200d.jpgDrink Better Beer: Discover the Secrets of the Brewing Experts by Joshua M. Bernstein 

    Cider Revival: Dispatches from the Orchard by Jason Wilson

    Spritz Fever!: Sixty Champagne and Sparkling Wine Cocktails by Elouise Anders 

    The Cider Insider: The Essential Guide to 100 Craft Ciders to Drink Now by Susanna Forbes

    The Lager Queen of Minnesota: A Novel by J. Ryan Stradal 

    Natural Wine for the People: What It Is, Where to Find It, How to Love It by Alice Feiring 

    Celebrate Rosé: Cocktails & Parties for Life's Rosiest Moments by Ashley Rose Conway

    Cheese Beer Wine Cider: A Field Guide to 75 Perfect Pairings by Steve Jones and Adam Lindsley

    Sakepedia: A Non-Traditional Guide to Japan’s Traditional Beverage by Jeff Cioletti

    The Bucket List: Beer: 1000 Adventures " Pubs " Breweries " Festivals by Justin Kennedy

    The World Atlas of Wine 8th Edition by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson

    YES WAY ROSÉ A Guide to the Pink Wine State of Mind by Erica Blumenthal and Nikki Huganir

     

    Not enough books for you??? Check out:

    All the Cocktail and Spirits Books Released in 2018

    All the drink books that came out in 2017

    All the Cocktails and Spirits Books Published in 2016 for Reading or Gifting

    All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting

    More Than 40 Drink Books Published in 2014 for Reading or Gifting

     

     

     

  • Grains of Peril: The Frivolous Florida Gin Lawsuit and Adulterant Analysis by Lance Winters

    You may have heard that a lawyer in Miami is suing Bombay Sapphire gin because it includes grains of paradise in the recipe

    DownloadThe suit is due to a 150 year old law meant to prevent potentially dangerous adulteration of alcoholic beverages. Also included in the law were several other "adulterants." As posted to the HoochLaw blog, the law reads

    Whoever adulterates, for the purpose of sale, any liquor, used or intended for drink, with cocculus indicus, vitriol, grains of paradise, opium, alum, capsicum, copperas, laurel water, logwood, brazil wood, cochineal, sugar of lead, or any other substance which is poisonous or injurious to health, and whoever knowingly sells any liquor so adulterated, shall be guilty of a felony of the third degree.

    When I saw this, I realized cochineal, a common red coloring derived from scale insects, would also render many spirits illegal in Florida if grains of paradise are.

    One of those spirits is St. George Spirits' Bruto Americano, an Italian-inspired aperitif liqueur colored with cochineal.

    Lance Winters, President & Master Distiller for St. George Spirits, sent me an email with his (amazing!) analysis of the situation. 

    Winters wrote:

    To adulterate something is to corrupt it, often in an effort to perpetrate fraud by creating a counterfeit of something. In 1860 when this law was written, there were small rectifiers and liquor compounders across the country who would often "create" one spirit out of another.

    For example, a "French brandy" could be made from a mixture of high proof grain spirits, Cognac oil and coloring. Another recipe in Lacour advises on making Cognac: "One barrel of whiskey, say forty gallons, add tincture of grains of paradise, one quart; powdered catechu, three ounces; mucilage of slippery elm bark, two thirds of a pint; oil of lemon, eighty drops; well rubbed in an ounce of dry white or brown sugar, and added to the liquor; then add six ounces of acetic ether".

    As these recipes show, ingredients like those listed in the Florida law were often used to create imitation versions of spirits, hence the use of the term adulteration. Grains of paradise in particular were used for hundreds of years to make a spirit seem stronger than it actually was, allowing an unscrupulous compounder to label a spirit with a higher alcohol content than was actually in the bottle. Capsicum, also listed in the regulation, was often used to give the false sensation of a higher alcohol content.

    The statement that the use of grains of paradise was "unconscionable" relates to [the lawyer's] prior claim of the spice to induce abortion. Grains of paradise are not an abortifacient. Their intense flavor was often used to mask the taste of abortifacients which were administered without the knowledge of the pregnant woman.

    Cocktail Geeks will know that in the back of the original Jerry Thomas' Bar-Tenders Guide was the Guide to Manufacture of Cordials, Liqueurs, etc., which had similar recipes for adulterating neutral spirit to make gin, whiskey, etc.. 

    Lance Winters then went on to describe what the other illegal ingredients were used for in adulteration: 

    Cocculus indicus was added to beer to promote a sense of giddiness. It's now commonly used as a homeopathic remedy for motion induced nausea.

    Vitriol is good old sulfuric acid, used for the "beading" effect in liquor in an effort to further falsify alcohol content. If it's so dangerous, why is there so much food grade sulfuric acid available?

    Grains of paradise were also known as Guinea pepper. In "Lacour, on the Manufacture of Liquor" (1853), an old how-to for both genuine purveyors and shysters, the author states that "Of the different varieties of pepper, none answers for the purpose of giving a false strength to liquors, except Guinea pepper; a tincture prepared from this variety has a taste analogous to alcohol, whereas the taste from the other varieties remains on the palate a considerable length of time after being swallowed."

    Alum was used to intentionally impart roughness to wines, again (I assume) to give the sense of a higher alcohol content. We most often use it in pickles.

    Capsicum was another tool to falsify alcohol content. It's also food. Packed with vitamin C. Say goodbye to pepper flavored vodkas in Florida.

    Copperas is an Old-Timey name for iron II sulfate. Probably used to color spirits that were supposed to have some sort of herb content or to stabilize same. Now found in supplements for people with iron deficiencies.

    Laurel water was distilled from the leaves of the cherry laurel and consisted chiefly of prussic acid. Probably used to give almond notes to artificial kirsch. Totally poisonous. Not going to argue that one.

    Logwood is a dye, brown, red and purple. Not sure about its toxicity, but was probably used to give the impression of barrel aging.

    Brazil wood would have been used in the same way.

    Cochineal, same use, currently used to color foods and cosmetics.

    Sugar of lead? C'mon, that's just silly. And toxic. And already prohibited.

     

    Lacour
    Lacour
    Lacour

    Thanks to Lance Winters for his analysis/rant in the form of detailed information!

    As is probably obvious to all but the lawyer in question, the spirit of the law seems to be to prevent using these ingredients to fool customers into purchasing counterfeit and potentially dangerous alcohol. Most of the ingredients are Generally Recognized as Safe by the US government, so they're permitted in the standard production of food and beverages. 

     

     

  • A Visit to the Monkey 47 Distillery in Germany’s Black Forest

    About a year and a half ago I visited the Monkey 47 gin distillery in Germany's Black Forest area. Today I'm finally writing about it. 

    IMG_8375

     

    The distillery is located in southwest Germany, with the closest city being Stuttgart. I pictured a distillery in the Black Forest to be a dark, densely forested area opening up to a house in the woods like Hansel and Gretel, but the distillery is really more of a farmhouse amongst fields. (It's a former dairy farm.) There is a bee house on the property and a small garden. It's very peaceful there. 

    IMG_8430
    IMG_8430
    IMG_8430

     

     

    According to our hosts, there are about 28,000 microdistilleries in the region.  

    Monkey 47 has 47 botanicals distilled into it. That's a lot. The base is a molasses-based alcohol from France.

    Ingredient notes:

    • They use fresh peeled grapefruits and lemons- no pith. They eat the grapefruits and some of the lemons are used to make biogas. 
    • The juniper comes from Croatia or Tuscany. It is ground up before macerating.
    • Angelica seed is also ground up.
    • A 'pepper mix' of cardamom, cubeb, and grains of paradise are mixed and grinded in a secret ratio.
    • Ground botanicals are stored in plastic boxes until use. 
    • Other botanicals include lemongrass, corriander, angelica, orris root, spruce tips, raspberry leaves, acacia, and lots of lavender, which should be clear if you've tasted it. 

    For maceration, the neutral 96.4% ABV spirit is diluted down to 70%.

    Lingonberries go into the maceration barrel first, as they can stay a long time in the spirit without over-extracting. The rest of the botanicals macerate for 36 hours before being distilled. 

    Each of the blue barrels makes 120, 500ml bottles of gin. Each barrel has about 25 liters of alcohol in the 60L bucket- they're not filled all the way. 

     

    IMG_8257
    IMG_8257
    IMG_8257
    IMG_8257
    IMG_8257
    IMG_8257
    IMG_8257
    IMG_8257

     

     

    After maceration, one bucket is dumped into a still and then water is added to fill it to 100 liters. The system is pretty efficient: one bucket to one still to one batch. 

    Additional botanicals are put in a botanical basket in the steam section of the still – fresh lavender and lemon peels, not sure if anything else.  

     

    IMG_8336
    IMG_8336 IMG_8247

     

    You may have seen a picture of the stills before – it's a gorgeous custom-made set-up with four stills. 

    They can make 6 distillation runs per day per still, or 24 total distillation runs per day. It takes a little over an hour to distil. Each distillation run produces 25-30 liters of 88% ABV spirit. After distillation, only water is added, no additional neutral alcohol (making this a "single-shot" gin). 

    After distillation, they flush out the solids from the still. These solids are also used to produce biogas. 

     

    IMG_8389
    IMG_8389
    IMG_8389

     

    After being distilled, the spirit at full proof is rested for 90 days in these large urns before being diluted and bottled. The dilution process, which takes place at the bottling plant, is slow and takes place over 10 days. The product is bottled at 47% ABV, which is above the level that it would louche, so the gin is not chill-filtered. 

    IMG_8246

     

    In addition to the flagship gin, they produce annual Distiller's Cut bottlings with different botanicals added to the mix.

    IMG_8436

     

    All told, I had this strange vision in my head that Monkey 47 was going to be this blend of Black Forest eau de vies made in wooden shack by a wizard, and that turns out not to be the case at all. The overall procedure is pretty standard for gin with some tweaks such as the fresh-peeled citrus and long maceration time before distillation. So what makes this gin unique is not so much its rustic location, but the recipe. 

     

    After the distillery visit, we spent the night in an amazing big Bavarian-style lodge nearby. Here are just a couple pics of that. I love this part of the world, but then again I haven't seen it in the winter. 

     

    IMG_8523
    IMG_8523
    IMG_8523