Category: history

  • Why Are Spirits Called Spirits?

    I wrote my take on this subject for The AlcoholProfessor, where the story first appeared. 

    Screenshot 2024-10-11 at 10.21.33 AM

     

    Why is Distilled Alcohol Called Spirits?

    The word “spirit” has many definitions but most center around either the idea of the conscious self as opposed to the physical body; or an attitude, as in “the spirit of the movement” or “in good spirits.”

    But given that this is Alcohol Professor we are concerned with the origin of the boozier definition today; that of “a strong distilled alcoholic liquor.”

    That definition comes in at number 21 out of 25 definitions of the noun “spirit” via Dictionary.com. Most of the other definitions have to do with thoughts and feelings or with ghosts and demons (as in Spirit Halloween) and other intangibles. But unlike the rest of the terms, the “spirits” in the form of distilled alcohol are real physical liquids that you can hold in a bottle or pour into a glass. 

     

    The Origin of the Word Spirit

    Looking instead at the etymology (the study of the origin of words and how their meanings have changed throughout history) of the word, we can see that ‘spirit’ is probably derived from the Latin spiritus meaning "breathing” or “breath” and also the “breath of life" as in the force that animates people; the force that gives them life.

    How do we get from the word for breath and the concept of consciousness to the word for whiskey and vodka? The answer is not so straightforward, and we have to go through alchemy to see it. 

     

    Alchemy and Distillation

    Doctors and Distillers by Camper English

    Doctors and Distillers by Camper English

    To be clear, I am not a linguist or etymologist, but I have wrestled with this question as I wrote the book Doctors and Distillers. Or rather, I was wrestling with the concept that distillation of spirits came from the theory and practice of alchemy, and along the way I figured out why the word “spirit” would be used to describe the result. 

    Alchemy was not (only) a practice of magic or a profession of tricksters and scam artists. It was proto-science before science was formalized, and involved elements of minerology, chemistry, religion, astrology, astronomy, metallurgy, and more. It was an attempt to understand how the world works, and how to improve it. 

    And just how would they improve it? With distillation. Distillation was one of the most advanced tools of early chemistry, more sophisticated than things like filtration, boiling, corrosion, and dehydration. And it was a tool used to make both the philosopher’s stone and medicine. 

    The Western-style pot still dates to at least 300 ACE in Egypt, but we don’t have good evidence of distilled concentrated spirits in the West until after 1100. In that millennium in between, the alchemists used the still to separate materials; for example, metals that had been corroded by liquid acids. 

    Many different, complicated distillations were thought to be required to make the philosopher’s stone; a powder or other substance that would help speed up the supposedly natural evolution from lesser metals into perfect gold. The still was seen as a tool for extracting the intangible part of something to apply it to something else in order to change (or heal) it. 

     

    Medicinal Waters

    At the same time, alchemists were using the same equipment to make distilled, preserved medicines and perfumes called “waters.” As we know from distilling red wine or yellow grains, everything that comes out of a still is clear, or the color of water. So things like rosewater and orange flower water were distillates from those plants.

    Distillation leaves the solid parts behind in the still and imbues the resulting colorless liquid with the flavor and scent – and healing properties – of the original matter. Thus, the alchemists thought of this as creating a “water” with the “active energy” of the original material. And that energy could be applied to other things. 

    Much like creating the philosopher’s stone meant to ‘heal’ a lesser metal into gold, medicinal waters could heal humans into healthier form. This concept of active, reanimating energy from plants contained within distilled liquid medicine (the breath of life!) seems the most likely origin of the term “spirit.”   

     

    The Water of Life

    We see real written proof of concentrated alcohol produced from the still before the year 1200 in Southern Italy. The distilled wine, used as medicine, was called the “water of wine” at first, then “burning water” as it could be set on fire, and eventually aqua vitae or “the water of life” when distillation technology improved, and the distillate’s superior healing and invigorating powers were explored further. (It can’t be understated how big of an improvement distilled spirits were to medicine; the alchemists thought they could prolong human life significantly with it.) The terminology became more formalized in writings of the 1200s and 1300s. 

    These terms were written in Latin, the language of science in the Middle Ages, before being translated into languages like French (where knowledge of distillation travelled from Italy), German, and other languages. “Aqua vitae” becomes “eau de vie” in French, “aquavit” in Scandinavia, and even “whiskey” in English via the Gaelic “uisge beatha.”

    At the same time, according to the Online Etymology Dictionary,  the word “spirit” comes from mid-thirteenth century French, based on the Latin word spiritus. This seems to fit our timeline perfectly – the water of life gives the breath of life to people who ingest it. By the late 1300s the word “spirit” comes to mean “distillate” directly. 

    Now, the Latin word spiritus also corresponds to directly “breath,” referring to wind and respiration, so could the origin of the word simply refer to the moist alcoholic vapor produced in the process of distilling? 

    That’s possible, but given the important symbolic medicinal properties of distilled alcohol, my vote is still for the definition of “spirit” as the breath of life, the active energy, or the animating principle of the universe distilled into liquid form.

     

  • Thirty Four New Drink Books for Fall 2024

    Update 2: Now this list is up to 34 books

    Update 1: Detailed reviews of many of these books in my story for AlcoholProfessor are here.

    Fall 2024 booksS

     

    Citrus: A World History

    A Forager's Guide to Wild Drinks: Ferments, infusions and thirst-quenchers for every season

    Sicilian Cocktails: Contemporary Island Mixology

    Flavor Lab Creations: A Physicist’s Guide to Unique Drink Recipes

    Gin Drinker's Toolkit

    The Art of Calvados

    Cocktails from the Crypt: Terrifying Yet Delicious Concoctions Inspired by Your Favorite Horror Films

    The Mindful Mocktail: Delicious, Nutritious Non-Alcoholic Drinks to Make at Home

    MockTales: 50+ Literary Mocktails Inspired by Classic Works, Banned Books, and More

    The Official Yellowstone Bar Book: 75 Cocktails to Enjoy after the Work's Done

    Preserved: Drinks: 25 Recipes

    The Cocktail Atlas: Around the World in 200 Drinks

    Free Spirited: 60 no/low cocktail recipes for the sober curious

    The I Love Trader Joe's Cocktail Book

    A Forager's Guide to Wild Drinks

    The Whiskey Sour: A Modern Guide to the Classic Cocktail by Jeanette Hurt

    Rum A Tasting Course: A Flavor-Focused Approach to the World of Rum by Ian Burrell

    Malort: The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit by Josh Noel

    The Absinthe Forger: A True Story of Deception, Betrayal, and the World’s Most Dangerous Spirit by Evan Rail

    A Most Noble Water: Revisiting the Origins of English Gin by Anistatia R Miller and Jared M Brown

    Spirits Distilled: A Guide to the Ingredients Behind a Better Bottle by Nat Harry

    Cocktail Theory: A Sensory Approach to Transcendent Drinks by Dr. Kevin Peterson

    Behind Bars: True Crime Stories of Whiskey Heists, Beer Bandits, and Fake Million-Dollar Wines by Mike Gerrard

    Scotch: The Balmoral guide to Scottish Whisky by Cameron Ewen and Moa Reynolds

    Martini: The Ultimate Guide to a Cocktail Icon by Alice Lascelles

    The Hour of Absinthe: A Cultural History of France's Most Notorious Drink 

    The Vedge Bar Book: Plant-Based Cocktails and Light Bites for Inspired Entertaining by Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby

    The Sopranos: The Official Cocktail Book by Sarah Gualtieri and Emma Carlson Berne

    Drink Pink!: Cocktails Inspired by Barbie, Mean Girls, Legally Blonde, and More by Rhiannon Lee and Georgie Glass

    Puncheons and Flagons: The Official Dungeons & Dragons Cocktail Book

    Cocktails and Consoles: 75 Video Game-Inspired Drinks to Level Up Your Game Night by Elias Eells

     

    New Editions and Reprints

    Jigger, Beaker, & Glass: Drinking Around the World by Charles H. Baker Jr.

    Bartending Basics: More Than 400 Classic and Contemporary Cocktails for Any Occasion by Cheryl Charming

    In Fine Spirits: A Complete Guide to Distilled Drinks by Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley

    The World Atlas of Whisky 3rd Edition by Dave Broom

  • The Gibson is a New York Drink Gone Big in San Francisco

    It was believed that the Gibson cocktail was created in San Francisco. In this 2008 blog post I cited what David Wondrich told us on a tour. The information is repeated in the Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails

    Screenshot 2024-01-08 at 6.31.38 PM

    But now new information has come to light. Martin Doudoroff shared information from a tweet on the Spirits and Cocktails bulletin board

    It is an article from the San Francisco Examiner from 1896, a new earliest first reference to the drink. From this story it seems that:

    • The Gibson was probably invented in New York 
    • It became popular at The Bohemian Club in San Francisco – maybe not invented there but transmitted from NY to SF there
    • And then it became popular in New York later, after it was popular in SF
    • It could have been equal parts genever to dry vermouth rather than dry gin but became famous with dry gin

    I always say (to myself): History is a moving target. 

  • Aqua Vitae Vs Arrak, Terminology and History

    I am reading The Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails in order with the Alcademics Book Club, which you may join on Facebook if you wish. (We're on the A's in early January.) 

    I've already learned so much new information and also old information I'm seeing in a new light. 

    One example of the latter is in the terminology of Aqua Vitae, the Latin term for distilled spirits ("water of life") vs arrack, the name of several different spirits. 

    Oxford coverAqua Vitae as a terminology comes from the "alchemico-medical" background – the medical alchemists separating a pure essence of the universal life force (supposedly) from wine. The name refers to the method (distillates were called waters) and (supposed) healthy life-giving impacts to the person who drinks it. It first referred to wine-based spirits but came to mean distillates of all sorts (and is the base of the words for aquavit, eau de vie, and whiskey) but then words like whiskey, brandy, etc came to dominate as spirits differentiated. A thing to note here is that this terminology and technology was from Southern Italy and spread up north in Europe toward the UK and Scandinavia, and eastward into Germany, Poland, and Russia. The technology of distillation of aqua vitae followed the path of knowledge with travelling monks. 

    Arrack was the Arabic word for distilled spirit, and according to Oxford, "is the first widely accepted umbrella term used to differentiate spirits from fermented beverages." It was first referenced in the later 1200s and early 1300s (the same time, but in different places, as references to aqua vitae). It also referred to several different distillates – palm arrack from Goa, cane arrack from northeast India, rakia from grapes/raisins in the Ottoman Empire/Middle East, and Batavia arrack from Indonesia that was made from palm sap and sugar. Many of these spirits travelled with sailors on the spice trade routes and were made into punch. Though not stated explicitly in Oxford, it seems terms referred to distilled beverages

    "All of these spirits preceded the rise of brandy, genever, rum, and whisky, the European spirits" according to Oxford. 

    So arrack (in its various spellings) seems to be the blanket term for distilled beverages that came out of the Asian tradition and ingredient set that travelled along Asian-oriented sea and land trade routes, while aqua vitae was more the European term for distilled medicinal spirits from wine and grain that travelled along routes of monastic and medical-alchemical knowledge from Southern Europe north and northeast. 

    "In general the newer trade networks supplanted the older ones, and the various arracks fell back on their local markets."  And the spirits born from the tradition of aqua vitae came to dominate the European markets and evolve into their more modern forms. 

     

    Batavia.label

     

  • Did British Gin Come from Dutch Genever? Part 2

    Screenshot 2023-12-27 at 2.11.13 PMI watched a video by Philip Duff on the history of gin – is gin the British interpretation of Dutch genever? Or does it come from a more or less independent distilling tradition since British spirits were usually based on a neutral base distillate? 

    I watched a seminar by Jared Brown and Anistatia Miller that claims independence and wrote about that here.

    Phil Duff adds some new information about the historical use of botanics in genever and on Dutch distilling styles. 

    Duff cites a couple key pieces of information:

    • The most popular style of distillation in Holland was not distilling a beer mash with botanicals one single time [which leads some to the conclusion that gin, based on a neutral spirit base, was born independently of Holland] but 2 distillations then a third with botanicals, which is essentially how gin is made.
    • The Distiller of London contains a recipe that looks like gin but is more of an expensive medicinal liqueur, and a book published after it to "correct the mistakes" in it says differently 

    And thus he concludes basically that gin was invented in England after column distillation comes on boaord in the early 1800s, but it's a direct line of invention from Dutch distilling/genever. 

    Click the link above for Jared/Anistatia's first video, then watch Phil's video below. 

     

     

  • The Five Best Drink Books of 2023

    This year I read more than 40 books, mostly about drinks. My top five favorites are below. This list is not actually the best drink books of the year, but my favorites. (And my favorite technically came out in 2022.) I wrote the title for SEO!

    What I want out of drink books is new information or information presented in a new way. I don't need cocktail recipes so recipe books only really appeal to me when they present new techniques.

    And if I haven't chosen your book or your favorite here, just assume I haven't read it yet. You make great choices too!

     

    Camper's Favorite Books of 2023

    5. Ice: From Mixed Drinks to Skating Rinks–a Cool History of a Hot Commodity by Amy Brady [Amazon] [bookshop]

    Amy Brady's book about the cultural history of ice was a perfect pairing to my how-to book on ice cubes, coming out just a month after my own. This has the history of "Ice King" Frederic Tudor, plus how ice fundamentally changed America in numerous ways from food and drink to sports and travel. 

    Ice by amy brady

     

    4. How to Taste: A Guide to Discovering Flavor and Savoring Life by Mandy Naglich  [amazon] [bookshop]

    It's mostly about tasting beer, wine, and spirits but it's a book about tasting everything from cheese to chocolate to honey, and approaching it like a professional taster. There are tips of developing your palate and tons of interviews with professionals in many different specialties. It makes me want to host tasting parties for everything. 

    How to taste book

     

    3.  Tropical Standard: Cocktail Techniques & Reinvented Recipes by Ben Schaffer and Garret Richard [amazon] [bookshop]

    This is the only recipe book on my list, because it introduces new techniques to old drinks. Tropical Standard will probably be known as a book of tiki cocktail recipes made with modern techniques like clarification and isolated acids from Liquid Intelligence, but many of the drinks include no such razzle dazzle: It is really a book on raising the standard of tropical cocktails, optimizing them with everything we've learned in the decades since they were first invented. 

    Tropical standard

     

    2. A Field Guide to Tequila: What It Is, Where It’s From, and How to Taste It by Clayton J. Szczech [amazon] [bookshop]

    The title and cover copy really undersell it: This is the tequila book the world needs. About half the book is about the production of tequila and the historical circumstances and sometimes-ridiculous regulations that lead to it being made that way. Tequila is a moving target in many ways, but Szczech has done a great job at nailing the parameters that make it what it is, along with highlighting some of the largest and most traditional players in the category. This is now the first book I recommend about the category. 

    Field guide to tequila

     1. Modern Caribbean Rum by Matt Pietrek and Carrie Smith [buy]

    This came out at the end of 2022 but I read it – all 850 pages of it – this year. And it seems like it was written just for me. I am a production nerd and want to know all the ingredients, equipment, and regulations that go into making something and how those things impact how something tastes. Here we get the information on the specific stills- down to the manufacturer- used at every distillery, plus that level of detail about everything from every producer in the covered region. It's a lot, and I like it. So it is all of that wrapped up in a huge heavy package with terrific photos and design – a pleasure to flip through too. 

    Modern caribbean rum

     

    Super Bonus!

    The Ice Book: Cool Cubes, Clear Spheres, and Other Chill Cocktail Crafts by Camper English [amazon] [bookshop]

    Okay I lied again. Those weren't my top five favorite books of 2023. They're the top 5 books of 2023 that I didn't write. My favorite book of 2023 is The Ice Book, by me! 

    Learn to make very good ice and shape it into all sorts of amazing cubes, spheres, blinged-out diamonds, and more. I hope you'll pick up a copy if you haven't already. 

     

    The ice book by camper english
     

    Materials:

     

    Favorite drink books 2024

  • Black Caterers in Food and Cocktail History

    High on the hog coverIn a nice coincidence, right after reading Juke Joints, Jazz Clubs, and Juice that I reviewed here, [amazon][bookshop] my other book club chose High on the Hog [amazon] [bookshop] as their pick for the month.

    I just finished up the book (haven't seen the Netflix series yet but will watch next month- having only heard the title, I thought both were cookbooks/cooking shows instead of history book/show) and it's super interesting.

    One thing I noticed in Juke Joints was how often the author mentioned caterers and their recipes for food and drink. In reading lots of cocktail history I hadn't come across caterers that I can recall. So I made a mental note of it.

    In High on the Hog, the author explains a little better why caterers were often Black businesses- coming off of domestic work skills and training but lacking the capital to open restaurants.

    It was nice to have a question and then get it answered in the next book.

    Here are a couple of pages from High on the Hog in which I got my answers. It's worth reading High on the Hog in full though – it looks like the overlapping history of food and Black history in America.

    IMG_7815

    IMG_7816

  • Monks can’t make enough of this famous spirit. Can an alternative from S.F. replace it?

    For the San Francisco Chronicle, I wrote about the Chartreuse shortage and how some bartenders are looking locally to Brucato Chaparral as a stand-in. 

     

     

    Screenshot 2023-09-12 at 9.39.04 AM

     

  • Distillation in Ancient India? Not So Fast

    After reading my book Doctors and Distillers, Harold McGee (On Food and Cooking) pointed out to me that proof of distillation in ancient India (supposedly from the fifth century BCE) is not as well established as previously thought. Many histories on distillation cite work from 1979 that claims that elephant head stills were found along with other equipment that shows that there was alcoholic distillation in Northern India this early. 

    9780199375943McGee recommended that I look at the book  An Unholy Brew: Alcohol in Indian History and Religions by James McHugh. I added it as a suggestion that the SF Public Library should pick up, and thankfully they did. When it arrived recently, I took it out. 

    The book is dense and academic, and I decided that I wouldn't have time to read all of it. So instead I just searched for the sections on distillation. There were only a couple.

    McHugh writes, "… the evidence for early stills in South Asia is more questionable than is often assumed…. John Marshall's 'still' excavated at Taxila was not found as a connected assemblage; Marshall assembled it himself from quite disparate finds, no doubt on the model of contemporaneous stills, in order to explain the function of just one of the vessels. Allchin [the 1979 reference that's referred to in places such as the Oxford Companion to Spirits and Cocktails] built on Marshall's hypothesis regarding the function of these vessels, and his textual evidence is not convincing. Allchin likewise did not find a still assemblage but rather a large number of one type of vessel, with very few other parts."

    "The earliest explicit description of alcoholic distillation that I am aware of is from a medical text… dating from around 1200 CE…. It is absolutely clear that distillation is described here and that the liquid distilled is a fermented, sugar-based drink…. An important point to note here is that, when Sanskrit texts mention alcoholic distillation, they are quite clear about it, using specific vocabulary." 

    Note that at the end of the 1100s is when we first find real evidence of alcoholic distillation in southern Italy as well. McHugh notes that the distilled spirit is distilled medicine, not beverage alcohol. This is in line with distillation in Europe at this time. 

    Later text references to alcoholic distillation pop up at the end of the 1200s in Indian texts, and now refer to recreational drinking.  Note: nonalcoholic distillation in the West dates to probably 300CE; Arabs were distilling rosewater after I believe the year 700, but as I wrote in Doctors and Distillers, it doesn't seem that even if/when they distilled wine, they concentrated the alcohol with heads/tails cuts, so it was closer to filtration.

    In a later chapter, McHugh mentions a book "The Elucidation of Distillates (Arkaprakasa), dating from the seventeenth century CE or later, is a treatise on distilled medicines." That might be a fun book for me to find if it has been translated into English sometime. 

    Anyway, I thought this was interesting. 

  • Vanity Fair: The Glaciers May Be Melting—But Status Ice Is Trending

    I was interviewed for this terrific story in Vanity Fair that brings together the modern manifestations of clear ice with its history as a luxury item that quickly transforms into an everyday necessity over and over again. I think the writer did a great job with it. 

    Read it here

    Vanity fair story