Category: legal/law/regulations

Thirty Four New Drink Books for Fall 2024

Update 2: Now this list is up to 34 books

Update 1: Detailed reviews of many of these books in my story for AlcoholProfessor are here.

Citrus: A World History

A Forager's Guide to Wild Drinks: Ferments, infusions and thirst-quenchers for every season

Sicilian Cocktails: Contemporary Island Mixology

Flavor Lab Creations: A Physicist’s Guide to Unique Drink Recipes

Gin Drinker's Toolkit

The Art of Calvados

Cocktails from the Crypt: Terrifying Yet Delicious Concoctions Inspired by Your Favorite Horror Films

The Mindful Mocktail: Delicious, Nutritious Non-Alcoholic Drinks to Make at Home

MockTales: 50+ Literary Mocktails Inspired by Classic Works, Banned Books, and More

The Official Yellowstone Bar Book: 75 Cocktails to Enjoy after the Work's Done

Preserved: Drinks: 25 Recipes

The Cocktail Atlas: Around the World in 200 Drinks

Free Spirited: 60 no/low cocktail recipes for the sober curious

The I Love Trader Joe's Cocktail Book

A Forager's Guide to Wild Drinks

The Whiskey Sour: A Modern Guide to the Classic Cocktail by Jeanette Hurt

Rum A Tasting Course: A Flavor-Focused Approach to the World of Rum by Ian Burrell

Malort: The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit by Josh Noel

The Absinthe Forger: A True Story of Deception, Betrayal, and the World’s Most Dangerous Spirit by Evan Rail

A Most Noble Water: Revisiting the Origins of English Gin by Anistatia R Miller and Jared M Brown

Spirits Distilled: A Guide to the Ingredients Behind a Better Bottle by Nat Harry

Cocktail Theory: A Sensory Approach to Transcendent Drinks by Dr. Kevin Peterson

Behind Bars: True Crime Stories of Whiskey Heists, Beer Bandits, and Fake Million-Dollar Wines by Mike Gerrard

Scotch: The Balmoral guide to Scottish Whisky by Cameron Ewen and Moa Reynolds

Martini: The Ultimate Guide to a Cocktail Icon by Alice Lascelles

The Hour of Absinthe: A Cultural History of France's Most Notorious Drink

The Vedge Bar Book: Plant-Based Cocktails and Light Bites for Inspired Entertaining by Rich Landau and Kate Jacoby

The Sopranos: The Official Cocktail Book by Sarah Gualtieri and Emma Carlson Berne

Drink Pink!: Cocktails Inspired by Barbie, Mean Girls, Legally Blonde, and More by Rhiannon Lee and Georgie Glass

Puncheons and Flagons: The Official Dungeons & Dragons Cocktail Book

Cocktails and Consoles: 75 Video Game-Inspired Drinks to Level Up Your Game Night by Elias Eells

New Editions and Reprints

Jigger, Beaker, & Glass: Drinking Around the World by Charles H. Baker Jr.

Bartending Basics: More Than 400 Classic and Contemporary Cocktails for Any Occasion by Cheryl Charming

In Fine Spirits: A Complete Guide to Distilled Drinks by Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley

The World Atlas of Whisky 3rd Edition by Dave Broom

September 6, 2024
All the Cocktail and Drink Books from 2020 for Reading or Gifting

It's time for the annual Alcademics drink book round-up! Below are all the books that have come to my attention in 2020. I don't follow wine/beer closely so there are only a few in that section.

The links below are to Amazon and to Bookshop.org. If you buy stuff after clicking on a link, I may receive a referral fee, thanks! If there is just one link, that's to Amazon as I only started using Bookshop mid-way through the year – you can always click over to Bookshop and search there. Bookshop.org allows you to order from small bookstores directly, or buy from a general fund that supports independent bookstores.

Whiskey Books

Whiskey Master Class: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding Scotch, Bourbon, Rye, and More by Lew Bryson

The Definitive Guide to Canadian Distilleries: The Portable Expert to Over 200 Distilleries and the Spirits they Make (From Absinthe to Whisky, and Everything in Between) by Davin de Kergommeaux and Blair Phillips

Which Fork Do I Use with My Bourbon?: Setting the Table for Tastings, Food Pairings, Dinners, and Cocktail Parties by Peggy Noe Stevens and Susan Reigler

Whisky, it's not rocket science by Mickael Guidot

Canadian Spirits: The Essential Cross-Country Guide to Distilleries, Their Spirits, and Where to Imbibe Them by Stephen Beaumont and Christine Sismondo

Scotch: A Complete Introduction to Scotland’s Whiskies by Margarett Waterbury buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

The Curious Bartender’s Guide to Malt, Bourbon & Rye Whiskies by Tristan Stephenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

The Sazerac by Tim McNally [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Beginner's Guide to Whiskey: Traditions, Types, and Tastes of the Ultimate Spirit by Sam Green  [Amazon][Bookshop]

The Terroir of Whiskey: A Distiller's Journey Into the Flavor of Place by Rob Arnold  [Amazon][Bookshop]

American Spirit: Wild Turkey Bourbon from Ripy to Russell by David Jennings  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Other Spirits: Gin, Rum

Gin: How to Drink it: 125 Gins, 4 Ways by Dave Broom [Amazon]

The Curious Bartender’s Guide to Rum by Tristan Stephenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Brand Books

Seedlip Cocktails: 100 Delicious Nonalcoholic Recipes from Seedlip & The World's Best Bars by Seedlip

Chartreuse, The Liqueur [CocktailKingdom]

A Long Stride: The Story of the World's No. 1 Scotch Whisky by Nicholas Morgan buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

Science Food and Drink Books

Science and Cooking: Physics Meets Food, From Homemade to Haute Cuisine by Michael Brenner, Pia Sörensen, David Weitz  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Nose Dive: A Field Guide to the World's Smells by Harold McGee: [Amazon][Bookshop]

The Flavor Equation: The Science of Great Cooking Explained in More Than 100 Essential Recipes by Nik Sharma [Amazon][Bookshop]

Beer, Wine, Vermouth, Sake, Fermentation

Beer: Taste the Evolution in 50 Styles by Natalya Watson

A Spirited Guide to Vermouth: An Aromatic Journey with Botanical Notes, Classic Cocktails and Elegant Recipes by Jack Adair Bevan

How to Make Hard Seltzer: Refreshing Recipes for Sparkling Libations by Chris Colby [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Wine, Unfiltered: Buying, Drinking, and Sharing Natural Wine by Katherine Clary [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Hugh Johnson s Pocket Wine Book by Hugh Johnson [Amazon]

The Wine Game by Zeren Wilson [Buy]

The Japanese Sake Bible: Everything You Need to Know About Great Sake (With Tasting Notes and Scores for Over 100 Top Brands) by Brian Ashcraft  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Journey of Sake: Stories and Wisdom from an Ancient Tradition [Amazon]

Fermentation as Metaphor by Sandor Ellix Katz [Amazon] [Bookshop]

History Books

Rabbinic Drinking: What Beverages Teach Us About Rabbinic Literature by Jordan D. Rosenblum

How to Drink: A Classical Guide to the Art of Imbibing (Ancient Wisdom for Modern Readers) by Vincent Obsopoeus [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Non-Alcoholic Drinks

How to Drink without Drinking: Celebratory alcohol-free drinks for any time of the day by Fiona Beckett [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Good Drinks: Alcohol-Free Recipes for When You're Not Drinking for Whatever Reason by Julia Bainbridge [Amazon] [Bookshop]

FIZZ: A Beginners Guide to Making Natural, Non-Alcoholic Fermented Drinks
by Elise van Iterson and Barbara Serulus

Zero: A New Approach to Non-Alcoholic Drinks  [Amazon] [The Aviary]

Bartending: Narrative and Professional

Unvarnished: A Gimlet-eyed Look at Life Behind the Bar by Eric Alperin and Deborah Stoll

Bartender as a Business: Building Agency from Craft by Jason Littrell  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Botanical Focus and Witchcraft

Garden to Glass: Grow Your Drinks from the Ground Up by Mike Wolf

Wild Remedies: How to Forage Healing Foods and Craft Your Own Herbal Medicine by Rosalee de la Forêt and Emily Han

WitchCraft Cocktails: 70 Seasonal Drinks Infused with Magic & Ritual by Julia Halina Hadas [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Potions, Elixirs & Brews: A modern witches' grimoire of drinkable spells by Anais Alexandre [buy on Bookshop ] [buy on Amazon]

Blackthorn's Botanical Brews: Herbal Potions, Magical Teas, and Spirited Libations by Amy Blackthorn [buy on Bookshop ] [buy on Amazon]

Cocktail Books

General/Classic/Historic Cocktail Books

Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails: Prohibition Centennial Edition: From the 1920 Pick-Me-Up to the Zombie and Beyond – 150+ Rediscovered Recipes … With a New Introduction and 66 New Recipes by Ted Haigh (Author)

Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails by John deBary

Spirited: Cocktails from around the World by Adrienne Stillman [Amazon] [Bookshop]

The New Craft of the Cocktail: Everything You Need to Know to Think Like a Master Mixologist, with 500 Recipes by Dale DeGroff [Amazon] [Bookshop]

On the House: Over 100 Essential Tips and Recipes for the Home Bartender by Cider Mill Press buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

Classic Cocktails by Brian D. Hoefling  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Splash: Modern Classic Cocktails by Ivy Mix (Author), Whoo Kid  [Amazon]

CO Specs: Recipes & Histories of Classic Cocktails by Cas Oh  [Amazon]

Themed Cocktail Books

The Good Reverend's Guide to Infused Spirits: Alchemical Cocktails, Healing Elixirs, and Cleansing Solutions for the Home and Bar by Steven Grasse, Sonia Kurtz, Michael Alan

Camp Cocktails: Easy, Fun, and Delicious Drinks for the Great Outdoors by Emily Vikre

Drinking with Chickens: Free-Range Cocktails for the Happiest Hour by Kate E. Richards

Easy Tiki: A Modern Revival with 60 Recipes by Chloe Frechette

Disco Cube Cocktails: 100+ innovative recipes for artful ice and drinks by Leslie Kirchhoff

Essential 3-Ingredient Cocktails: 75 Classic And Contemporary Drinks To Make At Home by Amy Traynor

Pink Gin: More than 30 pink-hued cocktails

Optimistic Cocktails Vol 1

Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails.

Behind the Bar: 50 Cocktail Recipes from the World's Most Iconic Hotels by Alia Akkam [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Fizz: 80 Joyful Cocktails and Mocktails for Every Occasion by Olly Smith [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Beautiful Booze: Stylish Cocktails to Make at Home by Natalie Migliarini and James Stevenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

The Cocktail Dictionary: An A-Z of cocktail recipes, from Daiquiri and Negroni to Martini and Spritz by Henry Jeffreys [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Peaky Blinders Cocktail Book: 40 Cocktails Selected by The Shelby Company Ltd by Sandrine Houdre-Gregoire [Amazon] [Bookshop]

The Shaken and the Stirred: The Year's Work in Cocktail Culture (The Year's Work: Studies in Fan Culture and Cultural Theory) Edited by Stephen Schneider and Craig N. Owens [Amazon] [Bookshop]

T𝗵𝗲 𝗧𝗼𝗮𝘀𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗥𝗲𝗺𝗼𝘁𝗲 𝗛𝗼𝘀𝘁𝘀 by Grade A Fancy Magazine [buy]

Star Trek Cocktails: A Stellar Compendium by Glenn Dakin buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

Classy as Fuck Cocktails: 60+ Damn Good Recipes for All Occasions buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

Shake Strain Done: Craft Cocktails at Home by J. M. Hirsch buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

Tequila & Tacos: A Guide to Spirited Pairings by Katherine Cobbs buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

Queer Cocktails: 50 Cocktail Recipes Celebrating Gay Icons and Queer Culture by Lewis Laney [Bookshop]

Drinks on the Lanai: Cocktails, Mocktails And Cheesecake Inspired By The Golden Girls by Elouise Anders  [Amazon][Bookshop]

The Aviary: Summer Cocktails [The Aviary]

Give Me Liberty and Give Me a Drink!: 65 Cocktails to Protest America’s Most Outlandish Alcohol Laws by C. Jarrett Dieterle

Very Merry Cocktails: 50+ Festive Drinks for the Holiday Season by Jessica Strand  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Winter Drinks: Over 75 recipes to warm the spirits including hot drinks, fortifying toddies, party cocktails and mocktails [Amazon][Bookshop]

Bar L.M. by Lindsay Matteson [etsy]

How to Drink Like a Royal by Albert W. A. Schmid  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Have Yourself a Merry Little Cocktail: 80 Cheerful Tipples to Warm up Winter by Emma Stokes [Amazon][Bookshop]

Düngeonmeister: 75 Epic RPG Cocktail Recipes to Shake Up Your Campaign by Jef Aldrich, Jon Taylor  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Drink Books Tied to Places

Distilled in Vermont: A History & Guide with Cocktail Recipes by Chris Maggiolo [Amazon] [Bookshop]

The United States of Cocktails: Recipes, Tales, and Traditions from All 50 States (and the District of Columbia) by Brian Bartels [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Behind Bars: High Class Cocktails Inspired by Low Life Gangsters by Vincent Pollard [Amazon] [Bookshop]

Spirits of Latin America: A Celebration of Culture & Cocktails, with 100 Recipes from Leyenda & Beyond by Ivy Mix

Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes by David Lebovitz

The Pikes Cocktail Book: Rock 'n' roll cocktails from one of the world's most iconic hotels by Dawn Hindle

Apotheke: Modern Medicinal Cocktails by Christopher Tierney, Erica Brod  [Amazon][Bookshop]

Drink-Culture Related Books

The Book of Ichigo Ichie: The Art of Making the Most of Every Moment, the Japanese Way by Héctor García and Francesc Miralles

December 2, 2020
EU Regulations for Vermouth, Americanos, and Quinquinas

I've had to look up this information a few times so this blog post will make it easier for me to find this information in the future.

In the EU

Vermouth = fortified aromatized wine with artemisia (wormwood) species.

Americano = fortified aromatized wine with artemisia (wormwood) and gentian species.

Quinquina = fortified aromatized wine with quinine flavoring.

Bitter Vino = fortified aromatized wine with gentian species.

The Regulations are found here. The text of this section of aromatized wines is below.

SALES DENOMINATIONS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF AROMATISED WINE PRODUCTS
A. SALES DENOMINATIONS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF AROMATISED WINES
(1) Aromatised wine
Products complying with the definition set out in Article 3(2).
(2) Wine-based aperitif
Aromatised wine to which alcohol may have been added.
The use of the term ‘aperitif’ in this connection is without prejudice to its use to define products which do not fall
within the scope of this Regulation.
(3) Vermouth
Aromatised wine:
— to which alcohol has been added, and
— whose characteristic taste has been obtained by the use of appropriate substances of Artemisia species.
(4) Bitter aromatised wine
Aromatised wine with a characteristic bitter flavour to which alcohol has been added.
The sales denomination ‘bitter aromatised wine’ is followed by the name of the main bitter-flavouring substance.
The sales denomination ‘bitter aromatised wine’ may be supplemented or replaced by the following terms:
— ‘Quinquina wine’, whose main flavouring is natural quinine flavouring,
— ‘Bitter vino’, whose main flavouring is natural gentian flavouring and which has been coloured with authorised
yellow and/or red colour; the use of the word ‘bitter’ in this connection is without prejudice to its use to define
products which do not fall within the scope of this Regulation,
— ‘Americano’, where the flavouring is due to the presence of natural flavouring substances derived from wormwood
and gentian and which has been coloured with authorised yellow and/or red colours.

November 30, 2020
All the Cocktail and Spirits Books Released in 2019

It's time for my annual post of (almost) all the cocktails and spirits books published this year, in consideration for gifting to others or keeping to read yourself. I know my shelf of to-read books is looking pretty menacing already, and I still have to buy some of these.

If I forgot your favorite book please do let me know and I'll add it! I am not excluding any cocktails/spirits books on purpose.

Links are to Amazon.com but you are encouraged to support your local independent bookstores when possible.

Low and No Alcohol

Just the Tonic: A Natural History of Tonic Water by Kim Walker and Mark Nesbitt

Alcohol-Free Cocktails: The Redemption Bar by Catherine Salway and Andrea Waters

All Day Cocktails: Low (And No) Alcohol Magic by Shaun Byrne and Nick Tesar

The Art of the Garnish by Leeann Lavin

Gin Books

The Martini Cocktail: A Meditation on the World's Greatest Drink, with Recipes by Robert Simonson

Sip: 100 gin cocktails with just three ingredients by Sipsmith

The World Atlas of Gin by Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley

The Big Book of Gin by Dan Jones

Gin Made Me Do It: 60 Beautifully Botanical Cocktails by Jassy Davis

Ginspiration: The Best Distilleries, Infusions, and Cocktails by Klaus St. Rainer

Gin Cocktails: Classic & contemporary cocktails by Hamlyn

Aged Gin Cocktails: 25 Cocktails for Gin's Newest Style by Aaron J Knoll

International Books

The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks: Sake, Shochu, Japanese Whisky, Beer, Wine, Cocktails and Other Beverages by Stephen Lyman, Chris Bunting

Great Northern Cocktails by Shawn Soole

Drunk in China: Baijiu and the World’s Oldest Drinking Culture by Derek Sandhaus

Whisky Books

World of Whisky: Taste, Try and Enjoy Whiskies From Around the World by David Wishart, Neil Ridley

The Complete Whiskey Course: A Comprehensive Tasting School in Ten Classes by Robin Robinson

The Whisky Dictionary: An A Z of whisky, from history & heritage to distilling & drinking by Ian Wisniewski

Whisky Cocktails by Hamlyn

The Bourbon King: The Life and Crimes of George Remus, Prohibition's Evil Genius by Bob Batchelor

Jim Murray's Whiskey Bible 2020: North American Edition by Jim Murray

Rum and Tiki

Rum Cocktails by Hamlyn

The Home Bar Guide to Tropical Cocktails: A Spirited Journey Through Suburbia’s Hidden Tiki Temples by Tom Morgan and Kelly Reilly

Tiki: Modern Tropical Cocktails by Shannon Mustipher

Minimalist Tiki by Matt Pietrek and Carrie Smith

A Rum Tale: Spirit of the New World by Joseph Piercy

(new translation) D. KERVÉGANT – Rhum and Cane Eau-de-vie (1946)

Other Spirits

That's the Spirit!: 100 of the world's greatest spirits and liqueurs to drink with style by Jonathan Ray

The Tequila Dictionary by Eric Zandona

Understanding Mezcal by James Schroeder

Misc Recipe Books

Schofields Classic Cocktail Cabinet by Joe Schofield, Daniel SchofieldHow to Cocktail: Recipes and Techniques for Building the Best Drinks by America's Test Kitchen

Gather Around Cocktails: Drinks to Celebrate Usual and Unusual Holidays by Aaron Goldfarb

Vogue Cocktails by Henry McNulty

Cocktails with a Twist: 21 Classic Recipes. 141 Great Cocktails. by Kara Newman

Flask: 41 Portable Cocktails to Drink Anywhere by Sarah Baird

Happy Hour: The Cocktail Card Game by Laura Gladwin and Marcel George

Spirits, Sugar, Water, Bitters: How the Cocktail Conquered the World by Derek Brown and Robert Yule

The Complete Home Bartender's Guide: Tools, Ingredients, Techniques, & Recipes for the Perfect Drink by Salvatore Calabrese

Bar Chef: Handcrafted Cocktails by Christiaan Rollich

Batch Cocktails: Make-Ahead Pitcher Drinks for Every Occasion by Maggie Hoffman

Floral Libations: 41 Fragrant Drinks + Ingredients by Cassie Winslow

From Garden to Glass: 80 Botanical Beverages Made from the Finest Fruits, Cordials, and Infusions by David Hurst

French Moderne: Cocktails from the Twenties and Thirties with recipes by Franck Audoux

Fancy AF Cocktails: Drink Recipes from a Couple of Professional Drinkers by Ariana Madix, Tom Sandoval

The Postmodern Bartender by Hayden Wood

The NoMad Cocktail Book by Leo Robitschek

The Aviary: Holiday Cocktails by Grant Achatz, Nick Kokonas, Allen Hemberger

How to Cocktail: Recipes and Techniques for Building the Best Drinks by America's Test Kitchen

Let's Get Blitzen: 60+ Christmas Cocktails to Make Your Spirits Bright by Sother Teague

Misc Books: Industry, Bitters, Distilling

Botany at the Bar: The Art and Science of Making Bitters by Selena Ahmed, Ashley Duval, Rachel Meyer

How To Get U.S. Market-Ready: Wine and Spirits by Steve Raye

The Art of Distilling, Revised and Expanded: An Enthusiast's Guide to the Artisan Distilling of Whiskey, Vodka, Gin and other Potent Potables by Bill Owens, Alan Dikty, Andrew Faulkner

Cocktail and Culture Books

The Official Downton Abbey Cocktail Book: Appropriate Libations for All Occasions

Shaken: Drinking with James Bond and Ian Fleming, the Official Cocktail Book

Last Call: Bartenders on Their Final Drink and the Wisdom and Rituals of Closing Time by Brad Thomas Parsons

Are You Afraid of the Dark Rum?: and Other Cocktails for '90s Kids by Sam Slaughter

Drink Like a Geek: Cocktails, Brews, and Spirits for the Nerd in All of Us by Jeff Cioletti

A Sidecar Named Desire: Great Writers and the Booze That Stirred Them by Greg Clarke and Monte Beauchamp

Gin Austen: 50 Cocktails to Celebrate the Novels of Jane Austen by Colleen Mullaney

Gin Rummy: Gin Lovers Playing Cards by Emma Stokes and Jean Andre

Glass and Gavel: The U.S. Supreme Court and Alcohol by Nancy Maveety

Bourbon Justice: How Whiskey Law Shaped America by Brian F. Haara

Beer, Cider, and Wine Books

Drink Better Beer: Discover the Secrets of the Brewing Experts by Joshua M. Bernstein

Cider Revival: Dispatches from the Orchard by Jason Wilson

Spritz Fever!: Sixty Champagne and Sparkling Wine Cocktails by Elouise Anders

The Cider Insider: The Essential Guide to 100 Craft Ciders to Drink Now by Susanna Forbes

The Lager Queen of Minnesota: A Novel by J. Ryan Stradal

Natural Wine for the People: What It Is, Where to Find It, How to Love It by Alice Feiring

Celebrate Rosé: Cocktails & Parties for Life's Rosiest Moments by Ashley Rose Conway

Cheese Beer Wine Cider: A Field Guide to 75 Perfect Pairings by Steve Jones and Adam Lindsley

Sakepedia: A Non-Traditional Guide to Japan’s Traditional Beverage by Jeff Cioletti

The Bucket List: Beer: 1000 Adventures " Pubs " Breweries " Festivals by Justin Kennedy

The World Atlas of Wine 8th Edition by Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson

YES WAY ROSÉ A Guide to the Pink Wine State of Mind by Erica Blumenthal and Nikki Huganir

Not enough books for you??? Check out:

All the Cocktail and Spirits Books Released in 2018

All the drink books that came out in 2017

All the Cocktails and Spirits Books Published in 2016 for Reading or Gifting

All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting

More Than 40 Drink Books Published in 2014 for Reading or Gifting

December 3, 2019
Grains of Peril: The Frivolous Florida Gin Lawsuit and Adulterant Analysis by Lance Winters

You may have heard that a lawyer in Miami is suing Bombay Sapphire gin because it includes grains of paradise in the recipe.

The suit is due to a 150 year old law meant to prevent potentially dangerous adulteration of alcoholic beverages. Also included in the law were several other "adulterants." As posted to the HoochLaw blog, the law reads:

Whoever adulterates, for the purpose of sale, any liquor, used or intended for drink, with cocculus indicus, vitriol, grains of paradise, opium, alum, capsicum, copperas, laurel water, logwood, brazil wood, cochineal, sugar of lead, or any other substance which is poisonous or injurious to health, and whoever knowingly sells any liquor so adulterated, shall be guilty of a felony of the third degree.

When I saw this, I realized cochineal, a common red coloring derived from scale insects, would also render many spirits illegal in Florida if grains of paradise are.

One of those spirits is St. George Spirits' Bruto Americano, an Italian-inspired aperitif liqueur colored with cochineal.

Lance Winters, President & Master Distiller for St. George Spirits, sent me an email with his (amazing!) analysis of the situation.

Winters wrote:

To adulterate something is to corrupt it, often in an effort to perpetrate fraud by creating a counterfeit of something. In 1860 when this law was written, there were small rectifiers and liquor compounders across the country who would often "create" one spirit out of another.

For example, a "French brandy" could be made from a mixture of high proof grain spirits, Cognac oil and coloring. Another recipe in Lacour advises on making Cognac: "One barrel of whiskey, say forty gallons, add tincture of grains of paradise, one quart; powdered catechu, three ounces; mucilage of slippery elm bark, two thirds of a pint; oil of lemon, eighty drops; well rubbed in an ounce of dry white or brown sugar, and added to the liquor; then add six ounces of acetic ether".

As these recipes show, ingredients like those listed in the Florida law were often used to create imitation versions of spirits, hence the use of the term adulteration. Grains of paradise in particular were used for hundreds of years to make a spirit seem stronger than it actually was, allowing an unscrupulous compounder to label a spirit with a higher alcohol content than was actually in the bottle. Capsicum, also listed in the regulation, was often used to give the false sensation of a higher alcohol content.

The statement that the use of grains of paradise was "unconscionable" relates to [the lawyer's] prior claim of the spice to induce abortion. Grains of paradise are not an abortifacient. Their intense flavor was often used to mask the taste of abortifacients which were administered without the knowledge of the pregnant woman.

Cocktail Geeks will know that in the back of the original Jerry Thomas' Bar-Tenders Guide was the Guide to Manufacture of Cordials, Liqueurs, etc., which had similar recipes for adulterating neutral spirit to make gin, whiskey, etc..

Lance Winters then went on to describe what the other illegal ingredients were used for in adulteration:

Cocculus indicus was added to beer to promote a sense of giddiness. It's now commonly used as a homeopathic remedy for motion induced nausea.

Vitriol is good old sulfuric acid, used for the "beading" effect in liquor in an effort to further falsify alcohol content. If it's so dangerous, why is there so much food grade sulfuric acid available?

Grains of paradise were also known as Guinea pepper. In "Lacour, on the Manufacture of Liquor" (1853), an old how-to for both genuine purveyors and shysters, the author states that "Of the different varieties of pepper, none answers for the purpose of giving a false strength to liquors, except Guinea pepper; a tincture prepared from this variety has a taste analogous to alcohol, whereas the taste from the other varieties remains on the palate a considerable length of time after being swallowed."

Alum was used to intentionally impart roughness to wines, again (I assume) to give the sense of a higher alcohol content. We most often use it in pickles.

Capsicum was another tool to falsify alcohol content. It's also food. Packed with vitamin C. Say goodbye to pepper flavored vodkas in Florida.

Copperas is an Old-Timey name for iron II sulfate. Probably used to color spirits that were supposed to have some sort of herb content or to stabilize same. Now found in supplements for people with iron deficiencies.

Laurel water was distilled from the leaves of the cherry laurel and consisted chiefly of prussic acid. Probably used to give almond notes to artificial kirsch. Totally poisonous. Not going to argue that one.

Logwood is a dye, brown, red and purple. Not sure about its toxicity, but was probably used to give the impression of barrel aging.

Brazil wood would have been used in the same way.

Cochineal, same use, currently used to color foods and cosmetics.

Sugar of lead? C'mon, that's just silly. And toxic. And already prohibited.

Thanks to Lance Winters for his analysis/rant in the form of detailed information!

As is probably obvious to all but the lawyer in question, the spirit of the law seems to be to prevent using these ingredients to fool customers into purchasing counterfeit and potentially dangerous alcohol. Most of the ingredients are Generally Recognized as Safe by the US government, so they're permitted in the standard production of food and beverages.

October 14, 2019
Thinking Thoughts About Bottled in Bond

Though I know the rules for bottled in bond whiskey and other spirits, in my head the whole thing operated differently than it does in reality. This came to light for me on a visit to the Cascade Hollow Distilling Co., home of George Dickel. The trip I took was to celebrate their bottled in bond (BIB) release.

I knew that BIB is a guarantee of certain standards – the spirit must be distilled in one season by one distiller at one distillery, be a minimum of 4 years old and bottled at 50% ABV – but I thought it went further than that. In my head the government had an active role in overseeing the bonded warehouse and maybe observing the actual bottling, and that was the point of the whole thing. How naive!

As George Dickel distiller Nicole Austin pointed out, all pre-taxed liquor warehouses are bonded warehouses. So any non-blended whiskey over 4 years old bottled at 50% can be stuck in a bottle and labelled as BIB; there's no special extra process to it. Most single barrel bottlings would meet that if they were bottled at 50% (not that there is any real definition of single barrel). BIB is just a weirdly specific set of rules.

Some Specifics

Speaking of rules, there are some neat things in the wording of bottled in bond spirits on the government's website that I don't usually see spelled out.

Stored for at least four years in wooden containers wherein the spirits have been in contact with the wood surface except for gin and vodka which must be stored for at least four years in wooden containers coated or lined with paraffin or other substance which will preclude contact of the spirits with the wood surface;

So gin and vodka can be bottled in bond if they're stored in non-reactive wood containers. No wonder we don't see any of those on the market.

Unaltered from their original condition or character by the addition or subtraction of any substance other than by filtration, chill proofing, or other physical treatments (which do not involve the addition of any substance which will remain incorporated in the finished product or result in a change in class or type);

They can't have any additives. I assumed this, but never see it spelled out when reading about BIB products. I guess because mostly BIB products are straight bourbon and can't have additives anyway.

Putting Bottled in Bond in Context

We frequently hear the BIB Act of 1897 as the first first consumer protection law, predating the Pure Food and Drug Act by nearly a decade. In an era when many whiskeys were blended and adulterated, this was a guarantee to the consumer of certain minimums.

But also the BIB Act seems to have changed the way whiskey was stored: pre-tax rather than post-tax, in bonded warehouses.

As Wikipedia states, "The practice was also connected to tax law, which provided the primary incentive for distilleries to participate. Distilleries were allowed to delay payment of the excise tax on the stored whiskey until the aging of the whiskey was completed, and the supervision of the warehouse ensured proper accounting and the eventual collection of the tax."

That's a huge deal, tax-wise. If you're aging spirits, imagine having to pay tax on every gallon of whiskey distilled four-plus years before you've sold it. That's a huge burden and this act would have been a huge relief.

[Note that I haven't researched if there was a way to defer tax payment previous to the BIB act, it's possible that this wasn't the first act to defer taxes but it could be.]

So for me, understanding the tax part puts it all together. In 1897 the BIB law guaranteed an unadulterated product to the consumer, and incentivized it to the producer via the tax deferment. I needed to understand both parts of this.

Today most mass market bourbon is 4+ years old and additive-free anyway, the only difference between regular and BIB bottlings is that most brands are blends of various ages and bottled at various proofs. I wouldn't consider bottled in bond products to be a higher statement of quality these days; just a quirky set of standards.

June 20, 2019
Bitter Ingredient Flavors and Use from Martini Vermouth Masters
At this year's Bar Convent Brooklyn, I had the opportunity to sit down with Ivano Tonutti, Master Herbalist for Martini & Rossi (and Bacardi products generally) and Giuseppe "Beppe" Musso, Master Blender of Martini & Rossi.

The timing was excellent, as I am preparing to give a talk on bitter ingredients for Tales of the Cocktail, and they were in town promoting the newish Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Bitter Liqueur.

The Bitter is part of the new premium Riserva line, along with Rubino (red) and Ambratto (white) vermouths. We spoke primarily about the new Bitter and and plants used in the Riserva line; but in some cases we were generalizing beyond that. So please consider this general information rather than super specific to any one product.

General Stuff
- The goal in using different bittering agents is to create a rounded bitter experience with multiple parallel bitters rather than a single-note bitter.
- Speaking of single-note bitter, they indicated quinine/cinchona bark pretty much gives that.
- When speaking about how different bittering agents impact the flavor, Tonutti would intuitively point to certain parts of his face, indicating where the individual bitter most impacts the palate – for example cinchona is a singular bitterness felt most in the far back of the mouth, different artemisia species were more forward. Gentian and rhubarb root impact the middle of the mouth more. It's interesting to see as we know the "tongue map" is false but yet we feel the impact of different bitter flavors in different parts of the mouth.
- They use all dried herbs, rather than fresh, for all the many Bacardi products (including things like Bombay, etc.) with the exception of some fresh citrus peels in Oxley gin. Dried herbs are used to ensure consistency and can be more easily measured for water content, etc.
- All these bitter agents are infused rather than distilled into products (we're talking about the Riserva line).
- They use only yellow gentian root – not the blue stemless gentian that a few producers use. They prefer French gentian as it's particularly bitter and more aromatic than from other places. They say the blue gentian is not super bitter, and it can be thought of more like an herb with root rather than just the root.
- Holy thistle is used in salads. In their products, it's used to impart mouthfeel, not bitterness. It is used in most of Martini's products.
- Dandelion – Leaves, not roots, are used. In production, leaves must be dried immediately after picking.
- Roman Chamomile – The bitterness of it depends on the extraction technique (lower ABV extraction is better for bitterness in general, they say) and the concentration. (I asked about this as I've made chamomile infusions in the past and none were bitter.)
Artemisia
- Between the Rubino and Ambratto there are different ratios of the three artemisia plants used – absinthia, pontica, and vulgaris. (grand/common, lesser/small, mugwort)
- Absinthium – boldest, bitterest, with a delicate herbal flavor
- Pontica – herbal and floral, a signature note of Martini vermouth, top note
- Vulgaris (aka mugwort) – aromatic, with a different and milder expression of bitterness.
Barks
- As noted, Cinchona bark gives a back-palate discreet bitterness.
- Columba bark is an aromatic bitter with mid-palate bitterness.
- Angostura bark is between cinchona and columba in its bitterness.
- Red cinchona (succirubra) is more bitter than yellow, with higher amounts of quinine, but they describe the flavor as more boring.
- Yellow cinchona (calisaya) they get from Ecuador. It is slightly aromatic, but there is less of it available on the market. This is used in Ambratto and probably other products.
Safety Stuff
- The amount of thujone in artemisia and quinine in cinchona bark are regulated. They say that their approach to this is to get as far under the legal limits of the active substances as possible. For example, their artemisia providers grow a strains of the plants with super low thujone content, and though they may be plants like grand wormwood that supposedly have a lot of it, they use varieties that don't. Thus if the legal limits of thujone were ever lowered, or as in the case of the US where the legal limit is lower than in the EU, they don't have to worry as they're not close to the limits.
- For quinine, there is a legal limit of 83 ppm allowed. That is just for quinine, not for quinidine and the other (two, I believe) active alkaloids present in cinchona bark. Tonutti said that rather than counting just the quinine, they keep the total number of all the alkaloids under the 83 ppm limit.
- Calamus is banned in the US and in Australia by name, meaning you cannot use it in a product's formulation at all, while in Europe and other countries, you may use the plant as long as the beta asarone levels are kept below a certain amount. [They noted the nonsensical nature of this, as if the problem with calamus is beta asarone, they why not limit the beta asarone?] Thus there are formula differences in some of their products in different countries. They also keep the beta asarone way below the legal limits in Europe anyway.
This may all seem like random stuff to you, but it was extremely helpful for the talk I'm preparing!

For those of you new to these products, here's the basic info from the brand:

RISERVA SPECIALE BITTER

The new Bitter joins the Riserva Speciale Rubino and Riserva Speciale Ambrato as part of a dedicated craft of exceptional Italian Aperitivi for bartenders and drinks enthusiasts. To develop the new Riserva Bitter, MARTINI & ROSSI used 100% natural ingredients and the original 1872 recipe, created by MARTINI & ROSSI founder Luigi Rossi, as their inspiration. MARTINI & ROSSI Master Herbalist, Ivano Tonutti, has carefully selected three rare botanicals (Saffron, Angostura and Columba), to deliver a unique richness and complexity to its taste profile through different dimensions of bitterness. The Bitter is also rested in the same Tino cask that is used for MARTINI & ROSSI Riserva Speciale Vermouth di Torino extracts and shares the vermouth’s common botanical, Italian Artemisia, allowing its unique complex bitter taste to perfectly complement it. ($26.99)

RISERVA SPECIALE RUBINO

The small parcels for full-bodied Langhe DOC Nebbiolo wines used to create MARTINI & ROSSI RISERVA SPECIALE RUBINO are blended with extracts of Italian Holy Thistle and Red Sandalwood from Central Africa to deliver a bright ruby red vermouth, which inspired the name of the expression. The delicate balance of botanicals creates a full-bodied herbal and complex style of Vermouth di Torino with a long aftertaste. ($14.99)

Ambrato packshotRISERVA SPECIALE AMBRATO

The floral and aromatic blend of small parcels of Moscato d’Asti DOCG wines, used to create MARTINI & ROSSI RISERVA SPECIALE AMBRATO, produces a beautifully honeyed Vermouth di Torino. The yellow Cinchona bark from Ecuador and Chinese Rhubarb create a light bitter taste profile that aromatizes and elevates the flavors of the wines. ($14.99)
July 3, 2018
Directional Freezing, as a Patent Law Exam Question
As readers of this site know, I figured out "directional freezing" – the process of making clear ice by controlling the direction in which water freezes – in 2009 and first posted it here on Alcademics.

I had always assumed that I couldn't patent the process because it's something that happens naturally (like how ponds and lakes freeze), but perhaps could have patented a device for producing clear ice cubes had I been entrepreneurial enough. (As you know, many such devices now exist.)

Well, this question became an exam question from Jason Rantanen, Professor at the University of Iowa College of Law.

On this post on the website Patentlyo.com, he talked about the test as he proposed a hypothetical:
Camper English was the first person to discover that clear ice could be produced in a home freezer by freezing the ice in a directional manner. English published these findings on a weblog on December 28, 2009, a copy of which you were provided in Appendix A. English immediately filed a patent application that contained the following claim.

I claim:
1. A method of producing ice comprising freezing water in a directional manner in a home freezer.
Analyze the patentability of the claim under current patent eligible subject matter law.
The rest of the test question involved the Wintersmith's clear ice maker. Keep reading the post for more info an an image from the patent application. It's pretty interesting.

Rantanen didn't provide the answer on the Patentlyo website, but he did give me permission to post a rough technical explanation of the answer, with the understanding that the below does not constitute legal advice:

The full answer involves application of an analytical framework that the U.S. Supreme Court articulated a few years ago in a case called Alice v. CLS Bank. Basically, you first ask whether the patent claim is "directed to" an unpatentable concept like a law of nature or physical phenomena. If it is, you then ask whether the patent claim adds an "inventive concept": basically, something that transforms the claim into something more than just a claim to natural law itself. A formalistic addition isn't enough: saying "I claim the process of risk-hedging, done on a computer" or limiting it to a particular technological field, such as ice-making, isn't enough.

In this case, claiming the concept of directional freezing would fail the eligible subject matter requirement since it's a natural law or physical phenomena. Even limiting it to being done in a home freezer is very unlikely to be enough of an inventive concept. However, claiming a specific process for making clear ice could be sufficient. For example, a claim to "a method of producing clear ice by placing water in vessel that is insulated on every side except the top and placing that ice into a home freezer" would likely be enough to satisfy the patent eligible subject matter requirement. There's a neat recent case that my students would have been aware of called Rapid Litigation Management v. CellzDirect that involved a process of freezing and unfreezing liver cells. The Federal Circuit (the Federal appeals course that hears appeals in patent cases) held that that particular method did constitute patent eligible subject matter.

The Wintersmith device on the other hand strikes me as a pretty clear application of natural principles. I doubt anyone would be able to mount a serious patent eligible subject matter challenge to that patent.

All that said, there's still the issue of whether or not the invention is new. If someone else described the same process then the process wouldn't be patentable. But newness is a different issue that's governed by a different set of rules.

Got all that? Sure you do. Me too :)

In any case it's awesome that after all these years I got an answer for a lingering question about The Blog Post That Launched A Hundred Ice Cube Trays.
January 8, 2018
What is a Blended Straight Bourbon Whiskey?
I was about to casually add a product to the New Booze page when I realized I didn't know what it was: Old Elk Blended Straight Bourbon Whiskey.

I thought that "blended" and "straight" whiskey were at odds with each other, as blended whiskeys must contain at least 20% straight whiskeys in their blend.

The press release doesn't address what is a blended straight bourbon is in the description:

With four times more malted barley than conventional recipes and a slow cut proofing process which allows more time for flavors to marry between proofing stages, the Old Elk Bourbon recipe transcends tradition to craft a rich, smooth bourbon.

“We use traditional ingredients – malted barley, corn and rye – in an innovative, yet steadfast recipe to create a bourbon with smooth, rich flavors that act in harmony with caramel cues brought out by the charred barrels and spicy rye notes,” said Greg Metze, Master Distiller at Old Elk Distillery. “After testing a variety of proofing periods, we found that these flavors come together in a smoother bourbon when the proofing stages are longer. Instead of taking the usual 24 to 48 hours for proofing, we use a slow cut proofing process during which full-barrel proof bourbon is cut and left to rest – and we repeat this patient technique until the ideal character is achieved. It takes significantly longer than most common recipes, but taking the time to proof slowly makes all the difference.”

(SRP $49.99), now available in Colorado and California

So I looked it up.

According to the US Government:

(5)(i) ‘‘A blend of straight whiskies’’
(blended straight whiskies) is a mixture
of straight whiskies which does
not conform to the standard of identify
for ‘‘straight whisky.’’ Products so designated
may contain harmless coloring,
flavoring, or blending materials as
set forth in 27 CFR 5.23(a).
(ii) ‘‘A blend of straight whiskies’’
(blended straight whiskies) consisting
entirely of one of the types of straight
whisky, and not conforming to the
standard for straight whisky, shall be
further designated by that specific type
of straight whisky; for example, ‘‘a
blend of straight rye whiskies’’ (blended
straight rye whiskies). ‘‘A blend of
straight whiskies’’ consisting entirely
of one of the types of straight whisky
shall include straight whisky of the
same type which was produced in the
same State or by the same proprietor
within the same State, provided that
such whisky contains harmless coloring,
flavoring, or blending materials as
stated in 27 CFR 5.23(a).

So a blended straight bourbon whiskey like this is a blend of straight bourbons that may contain coloring, flavoring, or blending materials.

Update: A PR representative for the brand clarified that although Old Elk could legally use additives in its formulation according to the whiskey category it is in, they do not. They wrote:
Long story short:
- Old Elk Bourbon conforms to Section 2 Grain Spirits (1)(i) Bourbon Whisky
- Old Elk Bourbon also conforms to Section 2 Grain Spirits (1)(iii) as a “Straight Bourbon Whisky” except that it is a blend of straight bourbon whiskies from other states, not the same state.
- Therefore, Old Elk Bourbon is relegated to Section 5 (ii) “A Blend of Straight Bourbon Whiskies” which allows the use of coloring, flavoring or blending materials but does not mandate it.
Old Elk Bourbon does not use additives, but still falls under the “Straight Bourbon Whiskey” designation since the bourbon whiskies used in the blend were produced in three different states (Colorado, New York and Indiana). They do plan to change that, as they’re expanding their distillery in Colorado.
October 24, 2017
Campari is Made Differently Around the World: Cochineal, Coloring, ABV, & Eggs
I was researching a few different topics and stumbled upon an interesting observation: Not only is Campari sold at a wide-ranging variation of alcohol percentage in different countries, the coloring used to make its signature red is different depending on the country.

As many people know, Campari was traditionally colored with cochineal, a scale insect native to South America that grows on the prickly pear cactus. (Cochineal is still used in many products today, as it is a natural coloring and doesn't need to be labelled as the unsightly 'artificial coloring'.)

In 2006 cochineal was discontinued – but as it turns out, not everywhere. In the United States and it seems most countries, Campari now uses artificial coloring. Depending on which country one is located in, that coloring must be declared in different ways, so what is merely "artificially colored" in the US is labelled as three specific coloring agents in one country, and none at all in others.

But in at least one country, cochineal is still used.

In the United States, Campari is sold at 24% ABV and the coloring is listed as "artificially colored."

In France, the ABV is 25% and the colorings are listed as E122, E102, and E133.

Next door in Spain, no special colors are labelled, but it's also sold at 25% ABV.

It appears it is the same in Argentina (with INS instead of E numbers), but the proof is 28.5%.

In Brazil it is the same, and labelled gluten-free.

In Toronto, it is sold at 25% and the color is merely misspelled (kidding!) as "colour."

In Australia, it is sold at 25% with no special color labelling.

In Malaysia it is the same – 25%, no color labelling.

In Japan, it appears to be sold at 25%. Anyone ready Japanese and can tell me if it says anything about coloring or eggs?

(One reader responds: "Red #102, Yellow #5, Blue #1. Don't see any mention of eggs.")

In Israel, it's sold at 25% ABV with E122, E102, and E133 listed as colorants.

In Iceland, it's sold at 21% ABV with no special color labelling.

Now here's where it gets really interesting.

I was wondering if the Swedish government website was merely out of date as it lists the coloring as E120 – that's cochineal(!), but a friend just picked up a bottle recently and cochineal is still in Campari in Sweden. Additionally, it is sold at 21% ABV.

Update: A twitterer sent me a pic of bottles from Mexico – they also have cochineal! See the E120:

And even more interesting is this bottle of Campari from Jamaica. Hold onto your butts:
1. "Blended and bottled in Jamaica… by J Wray & Nephew" [Campari now owns JW&N]
2. 28.5% ABV
3. "Contains Egg"
CONTAINS EGG. Folks, that is some interesting news right there. Typically when eggs are used in wine, beer, and spirits (that aren't egg-based liqueurs), the eggs have been used in the fining process that helps filter the products to clarity. I think it's fair to assume this is how eggs are used in Campari.

My guess would be that because Jamaica has a Rastafarian community, many of which are vegans, products fined with eggs are required to be labelled.

What this means though, is that even though they took out the cochineal insect coloring (except in Sweden and Mexico apparently), Campari, at least in Jamaica, is still not vegan.

The question remains what it is in the rest of the world – I would bet that Campari is still not vegan.

Keep in mind that much cane sugar is whitened using bone charcoal, so any liqueur or sweetened alcohol has an okay chance of being non-vegan.

Thank you to my Facebook and Twitter friends from around the world who shared their bottle images. If you live in another country not mentioned here, please send me your bottle image to add to this discussion. Thanks!
July 15, 2017