Category: science

  • How to Stretch a Lime – My Story in the SF Chronicle

    I wrote about oleo citrate and super juice for the San Francisco Chronicle.

    These are techniques for increasing the yield from citrus fruits by eight times or so, using a touch of citric and malic acid powder in a specific way to bump up the flavor and texture of citrus to extend it over a large volume. 

    Bartenders in the Bay Area have begun experimenting with the technique, not because our locals love high-tech processing of natural ingredients (our locals very much do not) but because threatened tariffs on imports from Mexico would make limes more expensive- as well as tequila and agave nectar. 

    The story may be paywalled, but check it out here

     

    Tariffs could make Bay Area cocktails more expensive. This ‘super juice’ may be a solution

    By Camper English

    Unless bartenders figure out something soon, margaritas could soon cause sticker shock on cocktail menus across the Bay Area. The tequila, limes and agave syrup used in them may all come from Mexico, and imports on them will face tariffs if President Trump follows through with his threats.

    Eric Ochoa, partner at the bar Dalva in San Francisco’s Mission District, has been weighing his options and not finding any great ones. He could increase the price of the drink, or take the “shrinkflation” route, reducing the quantity of tequila or mezcal from 2 ounces per drink to 1½. Or he could swap out fresh-squeezed lime juice for “super juice” to cut costs on one ingredient at least. A citrus juice preparation resulting in six to eight times the liquid of regular juice from the same amount of fruit, it’s a technique that bartenders around the region and the country are testing out to squeeze their fruit for all it’s worth.

    continue reading…

    Superjuice

  • The Best Drinks Books of 2024

    These are some of my favorite cocktails and spirits books I read in 2024. Several of them I blurbed for their authors. There are few more books that were published this year that I haven't read yet, so maybe they'll get on next year's list.

    My 2023 Best Of List is here, by the way. In no particular order: 

     

    Cocktail Theory – A Sensory Approach to Transcendent Drinks

     

    91c8o2nlSnL._SL1500_

     

    A sciency book that's half about the perfect conditions for cocktails, half about applying perfumer techniques to cocktail development. 

    My video review

    Buy It: Amazon Sfumato 

     

     

    Dusty Booze: In Search of Vintage Spirits

    Dustry booze cover

     

    My blurb: An investigation into the secretive and competitive collectors and their methods, unsolved mysteries, and mythological caches. The once worthless dusties inspire Goldfarb to debate the monetary value of quality versus rarity and the proximity to fame. And unlike, say, stamp collectors, the author and every other dusty hunter must grapple with the decision whether to taste a moment in time or to keep time locked away in a bottle.

    My review

    Buy it: Amazon (note: super cheap right now) Bookshop

     

    Cocktail Parlor: How Women Brought the Cocktail Home

    The cocktail parlour

     

    My blurb: The Cocktail Parlor is a literature review of women-authored books in which there are mixed drink recipes, and an analysis of what those drinks reveal about the changing role of women in society. [Along the way,] Dr. Nice cites so many fascinating authors that I kept one browser window open to search for more information about them and another to add their books to my reading list. Rarely has a drink book so enthralled me yet left me thirsty for more.

    My review

    Buy It: Amazon (currently on sale) Bookshop

     

    The Absinthe Forger: A True Story of Deception, Betrayal, and the World’s Most Dangerous Spirit

     

    Absinthe forger

     

    My blurb: Retracing the steps of a prolific modern-day forger of absinthe who tricked enthusiasts and experts, Evan Rail deciphers how the spirit was distilled, colored, blended, bottled, and sold a century ago, and takes us to meet members of the current absinthe collecting community spread throughout Europe who improbably cracked the case of the faker together. I finished this book in a couple sittings because of its plot and pacing, but also learned a ridiculous amount of new and unexpected information about absinthe along the way. If you’re interested in vintage spirits generally, absinthe specifically, the importance of online communities, or tasty true crime, this book is for you!

    My review

    Buy It: Amazon Bookshop

     

    Malört: The Redemption of a Revered and Reviled Spirit

    Malort

    A wonderfully surprising and authentic telling of brand history that had me engaged and enraged! 

    My review

    Buy It: Amazon Bookshop

     

     

    The Bourbon Drinker's Companion: A Guide to American Distilleries, with Travel Advice, Folklore, and Tasting Notes

    Bourbon Drinkers Companion

    Tastings and a travelogue. Tons of great information from a distiller's point of view, and honest reviews not given in isolation. 

    My review

    Buy It: Amazon Bookshop

     

     

    Spirits Distilled : A Guide to the Ingredients Behind a Better Bottle

     

    Spirits distilled

    My blurb: Spirits Distilled is a new view of booze from the ground up. Beyond illuminating the plants, people, and production of all the major spirits categories, Nat Harry’s thoughtful recommendations should empower us to make better choices in the liquor aisle.

     

    Buy It: Amazon Bookshop

     

  • The Mystery Pillar and Ice Spikes

    This is a video about "ice spikes" that form in the freezer, and as explained it does so due to the expansion of water when it freezes. 

    He is talking about ice forming in a standard ice cube tray but those of us who make clear ice cubes in trays know this phenomenon as the "mystery pillar" – one cube (or sometimes two) pops up and starts forming upward out of a tray suspended atop an insulated cooler. 

    Interestingly in this video the host cites three factors that help ice spikes to form: distilled water, warm freezing temperatures, and a fan blowing on the surface. Well in the case of directional freezing, the water freezes out impurities so that the ice near the surface is basically frozen distilled water; the cooler impacts the rate of freezing; and fans are usually in the way. 

    In the case of the directional freezing system, rather than spikes forming above the surface, we usually get whole cubes popping up. My theory is that the "ice spike" phenomenon is happening not on the surface of the ice, but through the bottom hole in the tray – pushing the entire cube up from the bottom. Often the new ice forming does up around the sides, so you get something like looks like a cupcake topping on your cube. (Other times it seems the new ice forms below and pushes the whole cube up.)

    In any case, I think the "mystery pillar" is the same thing as "ice spikes" as it just makes sense. 

     

     

     

  • An Alcademics Study of Liquor Bottle Weights

    Since 2009 I have been weighing liquor bottles before recycling them. I was up to 1226 bottles weighed and decided it was about time for me to analyze the data.  

    At the bottom of the post I'll include a link to my spreadsheets. Note that I dated when I weighed the bottles because bottles often change. In my final analysis I took only the more recent bottle weights if I had them, but it's likely that some of the data in my spreadsheet represents older bottles that have since been changed. 

    This data obviously doesn't include every bottle on the market, and there may be some mistakes in it, such as a typo when I was putting in weights or I didn't weigh the box/tube that a scotch whiskey came in, etc. So take it with a grain of salt. 

     

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 11.55.41 AM

    Some things I learned: 

    I did weigh duplicates of the same bottle. The variance in bottle weights was about 10 grams. This is probably mostly due to me leaving a touch of liquid in the bottom of the bottle before weighing. Some varied by up to 15 grams but this was rare. So we can round our data to within 10 grams. 

    Here are some duplicates so you can see:

     

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.03.37 PM

    The larger the bottle, the less weight per volume of liquid. Some times by a lot! Some times by not so much.

    This is fairly obvious but nice to show. If you want to be better for the environment you should buy your booze in bulk. 

     

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.05.53 PM

    Brands change their bottles, and often not for the lighter. In recent years some brands have started moving to lighter bottles, but the common wisdom is that heavier bottles reflect a more premium (and expensive) product. That's the more typical direction. 

    Some changes include:

    • When Aviation gin moved from a wine-style bottle to a custom one, the weight jumped up by 100 grams. 
    • When Don Julio changed the bottles in 2011, the blanco may have become lighter but the repo and anejo gained weight. Now Don Julio bottles are weighted in order, getting heavier from blanco, repo, anejo, to 70. 
    • Highland Park jumped up by 70 grams
    • Junipero gin increased by OVER 300 grams
    • There were a few other changes that were within 30g that I don't think are worth mentioning. 

     

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.09.25 PM

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.11.29 PM

    13329518_is__63772.1573251260A weighed a few of the more egregious bottle caps. The Padre Azul skull comes in at over 300 grams.

    Somehow I only ever weighed St. Germain one time and not the bottle cap separately. The bottle is not as heavy as it feels though coming in at 800 grams. 

     

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.19.45 PM

     

    I then reduced the data down to avoid repeats, and to only include 750ML bottles so I was comparing apples to apples (or rather, applejack to applejack).

    My "final" clean data represents a total of 798 bottles.

    There are repeats of bottles, for example a flavored vodka versus the unflavored, and different ages of some whiskies, but I kept those in on purpose.

     

    The lightest bottles overall:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.27.07 PM

    400 grams or lighter is about the lightest we seem to get with glass bottles. It's a lot of the American value bourbons and blended scotch whiskies as the lightest bottles.

    Here are the next batch:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.29.04 PM

     

    Heaviest Bottles:

    And now for the heaviest, ordered from heaviest down. In some cases like Double Cross Vodka that may include the box. I had intended to mark when I included boxes or not but didn't do a great job at it. 

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.30.55 PM


    The next batch:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.33.26 PM
    Now let's look at it by category! 

    Amaro, lightest to heaviest: 

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.36.37 PM

    Brandy: Note that Laird's has since moved to a new (assumedly heavier) bottle. 

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.38.47 PM

    Lightest gins:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.40.54 PM

    Heaviest gins (heaviest on bottom):

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.42.00 PM

     

    Lightest  Liqueurs:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.43.16 PM

    Heaviest Liqueurs:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.44.25 PM

    Lightest Rums:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.45.37 PM

    Heaviest Rums:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.46.39 PM

    Lightest Tequilas:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.47.56 PM

    Heaviest Tequilas:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.49.01 PM

    Lightest Vodkas:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.49.41 PM

    Heaviest Vodkas:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.50.16 PM

    Lightest Whiskeys:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.50.59 PM

    Heaviest Whiskeys:

    Screen Shot 2022-05-07 at 12.51.36 PM

    I hope you enjoyed this analysis. Do you want to look at the data and maybe even subcategorize it into things like bourbon vs scotch rather than just whisky? 

    You can find a copy of the sheet here. I have it set so that you should have to copy it in order to make your own changes. Let me know if you further analyze it!

    There are certainly duplicates and other errors in my data, no need to point out anything minor. 

     

     

  • All the Cocktail and Drink Books from 2020 for Reading or Gifting

    It's time for the annual Alcademics drink book round-up! Below are all the books that have come to my attention in 2020. I don't follow wine/beer closely so there are only a few in that section. 

    The links below are to Amazon and to Bookshop.org. If you buy stuff after clicking on a link, I may receive a referral fee, thanks! If there is just one link, that's to Amazon as I only started using Bookshop mid-way through the year – you can always click over to Bookshop and search there. Bookshop.org allows you to order from small bookstores directly, or buy from a general fund that supports independent bookstores. 

     

     

    Whiskey Books

    41qEbUqNtIL._SX316_BO1 204 203 200_Whiskey Master Class: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding Scotch, Bourbon, Rye, and More by Lew Bryson

    The Definitive Guide to Canadian Distilleries: The Portable Expert to Over 200 Distilleries and the Spirits they Make (From Absinthe to Whisky, and Everything in Between) by Davin de Kergommeaux and Blair Phillips

    Which Fork Do I Use with My Bourbon?: Setting the Table for Tastings, Food Pairings, Dinners, and Cocktail Parties by Peggy Noe Stevens and Susan Reigler 

    Whisky, it's not rocket science by Mickael Guidot

    Canadian Spirits: The Essential Cross-Country Guide to Distilleries, Their Spirits, and Where to Imbibe Them by Stephen Beaumont and Christine Sismondo 

    51afRqSoTsL._SX331_BO1 204 203 200_Scotch: A Complete Introduction to Scotland’s Whiskies by Margarett Waterbury  buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    The Curious Bartender’s Guide to Malt, Bourbon & Rye Whiskies by Tristan Stephenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The Sazerac by Tim McNally [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Beginner's Guide to Whiskey: Traditions, Types, and Tastes of the Ultimate Spirit by Sam Green  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    The Terroir of Whiskey: A Distiller's Journey Into the Flavor of Place by Rob Arnold  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    American Spirit: Wild Turkey Bourbon from Ripy to Russell by David Jennings  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Other Spirits: Gin, Rum 

    51vBdm4PpeL._SX357_BO1 204 203 200_Gin: How to Drink it: 125 Gins, 4 Ways by Dave Broom [Amazon

    The Curious Bartender’s Guide to Rum by Tristan Stephenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

     

     

     

    Brand Books

    Seedlip Cocktails: 100 Delicious Nonalcoholic Recipes from Seedlip & The World's Best Bars by Seedlip

    Bok-char_web1Chartreuse, The Liqueur [CocktailKingdom]

    A Long Stride: The Story of the World's No. 1 Scotch Whisky by Nicholas Morgan  buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Science Food and Drink Books

    418mGG7kVHL._SX376_BO1 204 203 200_Science and Cooking: Physics Meets Food, From Homemade to Haute Cuisine by Michael Brenner, Pia Sörensen, David Weitz  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Nose Dive: A Field Guide to the World's Smells by Harold McGee: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    The Flavor Equation: The Science of Great Cooking Explained in More Than 100 Essential Recipes  by Nik Sharma  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Beer, Wine, Vermouth, Sake, Fermentation 

    61Dpkit3R2L._SX309_BO1 204 203 200_Beer: Taste the Evolution in 50 Styles by Natalya Watson

    A Spirited Guide to Vermouth: An Aromatic Journey with Botanical Notes, Classic Cocktails and Elegant Recipes by Jack Adair Bevan 

    How to Make Hard Seltzer: Refreshing Recipes for Sparkling Libations by Chris Colby [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Wine, Unfiltered: Buying, Drinking, and Sharing Natural Wine by Katherine Clary [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Hugh Johnson s Pocket Wine Book by Hugh Johnson [Amazon

    The Wine Game by Zeren Wilson [Buy]

    The Japanese Sake Bible: Everything You Need to Know About Great Sake (With Tasting Notes and Scores for Over 100 Top Brands)  by Brian Ashcraft  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Journey of Sake: Stories and Wisdom from an Ancient Tradition [Amazon]

    Fermentation as Metaphor  by Sandor Ellix Katz  [Amazon] [Bookshop]

     

     

    411Bcmkd-oL._SX331_BO1 204 203 200_History Books

    Rabbinic Drinking: What Beverages Teach Us About Rabbinic Literature by Jordan D. Rosenblum

    How to Drink: A Classical Guide to the Art of Imbibing (Ancient Wisdom for Modern Readers) by Vincent Obsopoeus [Amazon] [Bookshop]

     

     

     

    Non-Alcoholic Drinks

    How to Drink without Drinking: Celebratory alcohol-free drinks for any time of the day by Fiona Beckett [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    9781984856340Good Drinks: Alcohol-Free Recipes for When You're Not Drinking for Whatever Reason by Julia Bainbridge [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    FIZZ: A Beginners Guide to Making Natural, Non-Alcoholic Fermented Drinks
    by Elise van Iterson and Barbara Serulus

    Zero: A New Approach to Non-Alcoholic Drinks  [Amazon] [The Aviary]

     

     

     

    41q5TY-mxkL._SX331_BO1 204 203 200_Bartending: Narrative and Professional

    Unvarnished: A Gimlet-eyed Look at Life Behind the Bar by Eric Alperin and Deborah Stoll

    Bartender as a Business: Building Agency from Craft by Jason Littrell  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

     

    Botanical Focus and Witchcraft 

    51tX57Rj7nL._SX373_BO1 204 203 200_Garden to Glass: Grow Your Drinks from the Ground Up by Mike Wolf

    Wild Remedies: How to Forage Healing Foods and Craft Your Own Herbal Medicine by Rosalee de la Forêt and Emily Han 

    WitchCraft Cocktails: 70 Seasonal Drinks Infused with Magic & Ritual by Julia Halina Hadas [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Potions, Elixirs & Brews: A modern witches' grimoire of drinkable spells by Anais Alexandre  [buy on Bookshop ] [buy on Amazon]

    Blackthorn's Botanical Brews: Herbal Potions, Magical Teas, and Spirited Libations by Amy Blackthorn  [buy on Bookshop ] [buy on Amazon]

     

    Cocktail Books

     

    General/Classic/Historic Cocktail Books

    51eciGNJ9RL._SX363_BO1 204 203 200_Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails: Prohibition Centennial Edition: From the 1920 Pick-Me-Up to the Zombie and Beyond – 150+ Rediscovered Recipes … With a New Introduction and 66 New Recipes  by Ted Haigh (Author)

    Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails by John deBary 

    Spirited: Cocktails from around the World by Adrienne Stillman [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The New Craft of the Cocktail: Everything You Need to Know to Think Like a Master Mixologist, with 500 Recipes by Dale DeGroff [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    On the House: Over 100 Essential Tips and Recipes for the Home Bartender by Cider Mill Press buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Classic Cocktails by Brian D. Hoefling  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Splash: Modern Classic Cocktails by Ivy Mix (Author), Whoo Kid  [Amazon]

    CO Specs: Recipes & Histories of Classic Cocktails by Cas Oh  [Amazon]

     

     

    Themed Cocktail Books

    41s2l11kAVL._SX396_BO1 204 203 200_The Good Reverend's Guide to Infused Spirits: Alchemical Cocktails, Healing Elixirs, and Cleansing Solutions for the Home and Bar by Steven Grasse, Sonia Kurtz, Michael Alan

    Camp Cocktails: Easy, Fun, and Delicious Drinks for the Great Outdoors by Emily Vikre 

    Drinking with Chickens: Free-Range Cocktails for the Happiest Hour by Kate E. Richards

    Easy Tiki: A Modern Revival with 60 Recipes by Chloe Frechette 

    Disco Cube Cocktails: 100+ innovative recipes for artful ice and drinks by Leslie Kirchhoff

    Essential 3-Ingredient Cocktails: 75 Classic And Contemporary Drinks To Make At Home by Amy Traynor 

    Pink Gin: More than 30 pink-hued cocktails  

    Optimistic Cocktails Vol 1 

     Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails. 

    Behind the Bar: 50 Cocktail Recipes from the World's Most Iconic Hotels by Alia Akkam [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Fizz: 80 Joyful Cocktails and Mocktails for Every Occasion by Olly Smith [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    51PEMjShYAL._SX394_BO1 204 203 200_Beautiful Booze: Stylish Cocktails to Make at Home by Natalie Migliarini and James Stevenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The Cocktail Dictionary: An A-Z of cocktail recipes, from Daiquiri and Negroni to Martini and Spritz by Henry Jeffreys [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Peaky Blinders Cocktail Book: 40 Cocktails Selected by The Shelby Company Ltd by Sandrine Houdre-Gregoire [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The Shaken and the Stirred: The Year's Work in Cocktail Culture (The Year's Work: Studies in Fan Culture and Cultural Theory)  Edited by Stephen Schneider and Craig N. Owens [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    T𝗵𝗲 𝗧𝗼𝗮𝘀𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗥𝗲𝗺𝗼𝘁𝗲 𝗛𝗼𝘀𝘁𝘀 by Grade A Fancy Magazine [buy]

    Star Trek Cocktails: A Stellar Compendium by Glenn Dakin  buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Classy as Fuck Cocktails: 60+ Damn Good Recipes for All Occasions buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Shake Strain Done: Craft Cocktails at Home by J. M. Hirsch  buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Tequila & Tacos: A Guide to Spirited Pairings by Katherine Cobbs buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Queer Cocktails: 50 Cocktail Recipes Celebrating Gay Icons and Queer Culture by Lewis Laney [Bookshop]

    9781925811704Drinks on the Lanai: Cocktails, Mocktails And Cheesecake Inspired By The Golden Girls by Elouise Anders  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    The Aviary: Summer Cocktails [The Aviary]

    Give Me Liberty and Give Me a Drink!: 65 Cocktails to Protest America’s Most Outlandish Alcohol Laws  by C. Jarrett Dieterle 

    Very Merry Cocktails: 50+ Festive Drinks for the Holiday Season by Jessica Strand  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Winter Drinks: Over 75 recipes to warm the spirits including hot drinks, fortifying toddies, party cocktails and mocktails [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Bar L.M. by Lindsay Matteson [etsy]

    How to Drink Like a Royal by Albert W. A. Schmid  [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Have Yourself a Merry Little Cocktail: 80 Cheerful Tipples to Warm up Winter by Emma Stokes [Amazon][Bookshop]

    Düngeonmeister: 75 Epic RPG Cocktail Recipes to Shake Up Your Campaign by Jef Aldrich, Jon Taylor  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Drink Books Tied to Places

    418OG1OJk7L._SX383_BO1 204 203 200_Distilled in Vermont: A History & Guide with Cocktail Recipes by Chris Maggiolo [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    The United States of Cocktails: Recipes, Tales, and Traditions from All 50 States (and the District of Columbia) by Brian Bartels [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Behind Bars: High Class Cocktails Inspired by Low Life Gangsters by Vincent Pollard [Amazon] [Bookshop]

    Spirits of Latin America: A Celebration of Culture & Cocktails, with 100 Recipes from Leyenda & Beyond by Ivy Mix 

    Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes by David Lebovitz 

    The Pikes Cocktail Book: Rock 'n' roll cocktails from one of the world's most iconic hotels by Dawn Hindle

    41H4HjMTchL._SX336_BO1 204 203 200_Apotheke: Modern Medicinal Cocktails by Christopher Tierney, Erica Brod  [Amazon][Bookshop]

     

     

    Drink-Culture Related Books

    The Book of Ichigo Ichie: The Art of Making the Most of Every Moment, the Japanese Way  by Héctor García and Francesc Miralles

     

     

     

     

     

  • Designing A Club Soda From Scratch

    I was recently in touch with Top Note Tonic founders founders Mary Pellettieri and Noah Swanson about their new Club Soda that was created specifically for making highballs with whiskey. They went into the process with specific goals in mind to pair it with whiskey, researched styles of water and other brands' mineral content, then experimented with specific minerals to use for best results. 

    The end product contains water, potassium bicarbonate, sodium bicarbonate, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate, and salt. 

    TnTo achieve their ideal club soda, Pellettieri says that they followed "standard beer chemistry rules – to make malty beer the brewer will add chloride ions and have a 2:1 chloride:sulfate content minimum. The goal was to make it high chloride, low sodium. [Other brands] didn’t take a position on what a club is. It was time to make club soda different, not just salty water. " 

    "We really followed beer brewing fundamentals and built our club soda water base to amplify malt, like a beer brewer would do to make a light malty beer. It so happens the core ion, chloride, is what we focused on here. I think this reference is the best to explain the different mash water chemistry and the impact to beer across the world.
    https://www.brewersfriend.com/brewing-water-target-profiles/

    "In brewing, they look at the ions separately, and focus on ratios. SO4/Cl ratio is an important one, as is the hardness and alkalinity of the water. They all play a factor in the final product, because of how the malt interplays with the mash."

    But water of this style is also similar to Kentucky limestone water.  "Noah found after researching that it was close to Kentucky water. We found out indeed Kentucky water was close, but not exact to what we set out to do. We focused on the mineral content, keeping it low sodium, but high in calcium, magnesium and minerals that amplify flavor."

    Differentiation

    Pellettieri  says, "The chloride helps pop the citrus [notes], so it plays nice with vodka too. It's probably not best in a bitter drink."

    They had other brands of club soda analyzed. 

     

    Minerals

    All graphics provided by Top Note

     

    Swanson  says, "[We looked at] a few waters from Japan –those were also low sodium, but some were also low in other minerals." 

    Pellettieri  says, "Mineral waters are variable, so the numbers change a bit…. Schweppes is hugely salty. Q is salty. Our target was 54, a little lower than Fever Tree.   I think later in the game we decided to add more potassium – it adds some mouthfeel. But too much potassium chloride gave it a swimming pool character. Topo Chico is high in sulfate. So is San Pellegrino – it almost has an eggy character from sulfate [sulfur]." 

    I asked about Burton Water Salts, which are a pre-mixed ratio of minerals that are used to make beer, but they also closely resemble the mineral ratios in San Pellegrino. 

    Pellettieri responded, "Burton salts famously produce really hoppy beer and we didn't follow that sort of chemistry. We followed the rules for making 'light/malty' beer as the image below shows. You can see the light hoppy beer water chemistry formal below as well, it has nearly 3:1 So4/Cl. Brewing research shows the higher the SO4, the higher the hop perceptions. Even 4:1 is what they strive for. But we were not going for that." 

     

    Unnamed

     

    Carbonation

    Swanson said of carbonation, "We did a lot of whisky highballs in the office.  [We were aiming for] a subtle mouthfeel, super bright carbonation to lift the maltiness of whiskies." 

    "Our goal was 4.0 volumes.  Most beer is 2.5-2.8 volumes. Champagne can be 6.0."

    I don't recall if they had other brands measured for carbonation level. I asked if it is possible to get that high carbonation in cans versus bottles. They told me it's challenging to reach high carbonation levels in cans by nature of canning and the large surface area of the top of a can, versus bottles. 

     

    Production and The Future

    Swanson says, "Our co-packer packs with 100% RO [mineral-free reverse osmosis-filtered] water. Other ones only use a portion of RO water. So that was a problem with others. [Our co-packer] mixes minerals into water then dilutes with more water [before force carbonating]."

    I asked – since this is "Top Note Club Soda No 1, aka 'Kentucky Club" if that means there are plans for this to be a range of club sodas. Yep, there are. 

    Pellettieri  says they're, "Planning to do a series of them – low and higher sodium sodas: High sodium for more bitter drinks [like bitters and soda]; lower for malty more subtle. A little sodium goes a long way."

     

    DIY at Home

    Are you curious about making your own custom soda water at home? A few years back I did some experiments I called The Water Project. The most relevant posts are:

     

     

  • Getting Nerdy About Soju Production: Sticky Rice, Nuruk Fermentation, Multi ABVs, Korean Production

    I received an email from a newish soju brand Tokki Soju with a really interesting story. Given the technical skill of one of the founders, I thought I could get some additional information, and that's just what happened. 

    First, the background:

    The brand was launched in 2016 by Founder Brandon “Bran” Hill and CEO Douglas Park and currently includes two soju offerings in its portfolio: the White Label (23% ABV) and the Black Label (40% ABV). 

    Armed with a BS in Molecular Biology, Tokki Founder Brandon “Bran” Hill moved to South Korea in 2011 to study traditional Korean fermentation and distilling. After receiving a Masters in Korean Traditional Alcohols at Susubori Academy, and having put some time in at a Korean yeast bank, he returned home to become the Head Brewer for Van Brunt Stillhouse in Brooklyn, NY. While at VBS, Bran began distilling soju as a passion project, and by 2016, the first bottles were hitting the shelves of NYC liquor stores.

     

    Unnamed-1

     

    What Is Soju and How is Tokki Different 

    Soju is a Korean distilled spirit that was traditionally made with rice, however during the Korean War, when rice was banned, most soju producers were forced to switch to alternative starches like wheat, sweet potatoes and tapioca. Although the ban was lifted in the 1990’s, many of the best selling brands in Korea still use alternative starches and chemicals to replicate the taste. Tokki Soju is the first American small-batch rice soju. Tokki is made with glutinous (“sticky”) rice, water, yeast and nuruk.

    Soju is not to be confused with other Asian spirits, including Shochu and Sake (both of which hail from Japan), although there are some overlapping similarities to note. For instance, all three are made from rice, however both Soju and Shochu are distilled (while sake is brewed). Shochu and Sake are made with koji (inoculated rice), while Soju is made from rice. Most mass Soju and Shochu brands are distilled from alternative starches, including barley, sweety potatoes, wheat, etc. – but Tokki remains one of the few that uses rice, and again, glutinous rice at that.

    What sets Tokki apart is that it’s the only soju brand on the market that uses glutinous (sticky) rice in the distilling process. They also hand-cultivate their own nuruk starter (a labor-intensive and costly process).

     

    Nuruk for Soju Versus Qu for Baijiu 

    Nuruk is a traditional fermentation starter meant to saccharify the rice – most soju producers do not use the traditional ‘nuruk’ starter due to the intensive labor and costs. Tokki uses hand-cultivated nuruk that takes 2-3 weeks to grow. Tokki is distilled in a copper pot still and only 35% of the run is bottled. As for the sticky rice that Tokki sources, it is all local from Chungju, where the distillery resides, and as a result, will over time have a positive effect on the local agriculture as Tokki becomes the number one purchaser.

    Nuruk in Korean alcohol seems similar to qu for Chinese spirits. I wrote about qu after a visit to China:

    Qu is a combination of mold, yeast, and bacteria. It is used not only for baijiu production but also for undistilled Chinese beverages. 

    • The mold we could say is similar to koji used in sake and shochu production. It helps break the starches in the grains down into fermentable sugars (saccharification). In whiskey, this is accomplished by adding malted barley and/or enzymes to the grains. 
    • The yeast makes alcohol, as it does in other spirits.
    • The bacteria helps in flavor development of the alcohol.

    Unnamed-2Back to nuruk: According to Wikipedia, "Microorganisms present in nuruk include Aspergillus oryzae, Rhizopus oryzae, lactic acid bacteria such as Lactobacilli, and yeasts, predominantly Pichia anomala and Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Aspergillus provides the enzyme amylase, which saccharifies the rice's starches. The resulting sugars are consumed by the yeasts, producing alcohol, as well as the Lactobacilli, producing lactic acid. Rhizopus provides the enzyme protease and lipase, which break down the protein and fat in the outer layers of the rice grain (endosperm), allowing the amylase access to the starches in the inner part.

    Camper: Can you name any differences in composition/action of nuruk vs qu, and also any production differences if you know? 

    Brandon “Bran” Hill: 

    Yes, traditional nuruk is similar to qu or "big qu" as far as the method of cultivation and how it is used in a fermentation, as a saccharification enzyme. Qu is different than what we personally use, because qu has wild yeast strains and bacteria attached to it. We only want aspergillus oryzae in our nuruk for conversion purposes and consistency. So, in our case, our nuruk is more similar to koji production, except koji is cultivated on whole rice and nuruk uses milled wheat cakes.

    Camper: For other brands that use "alternative starches" and don't use nuruk, do they just add enzymes? (I see on Wikipedia that many/most mass market sojus are distilled to vodka levels then just diluted so probably!)

    Bran:

    The mass produced sojus brands (green bottle soju) do not make their soju. They operate more as bottlers of mass produced neutral spirit (like vodka) that they purchase and then add sweeteners, chemicals, and dilute before bottling. I currently do not know another soju brand that uses traditional nuruk, but not to say they don't exist, but it is rare. Brands who make their soju today, often use Japanese koji in their fermentations.

    Fermentation 

    Korean Fermentations with sticky rice and nuruk purely depend on what you are trying to do with the fermentation. There are no set times for Korean fermentations and many different styles. Lots if variables come into play that will effect what determines the end of the fermentation. For example, the style or method used to start the fermentation process, feeding the culture multiple times, temperature of the fermentation, desired attenuation of the ferment, etc. Our fermentations take about 9 days for what we are trying to accomplish.

    Sticky Rice

    Camper: Sticky rice – from a production standpoint, why sticky rice? Wikipedia says "Glutinous rice is distinguished from other types of rice by having no (or negligible amounts of) amylose, and high amounts of amylopectin (the two components of starch)." and that amylose is "hard to digest" – does this imply that fermentation with nuruk would be much easier with sticky rice than with traditional rice as amylose is harder to break down from starch into fermentable sugars? I'm kind of making a guess here.

    We tested many types of rice and combinations of rice in the beginning of Tokki, when we were deciding on a recipe. We choose to use just sticky rice or more specifically Korean Chap Ssal (잡쌀) for a few reasons. First, we knew wanted to use a Korean variety of rice for our soju. Second, for quality the flavor. Sticky rice is more glutinous and has a much sweeter and rounder flavor and feel that we prefer over other varieties of rice.

    Yes, nuruk does break down the starch and into fermentable sugars to aid the start of the fermentation process. We also pitch yeast after our nuruk is added. It is true that amylose is harder to breakdown than other starch structures, but with our practices, I personally have never had a problem with liquefaction, conversion, or hitting desired attenuation in our fermentations with sticky rice. Also, I would not say that nuruk breaks down sticky rice easier than regular rice varieties in my experience. I have had great results with nuruk applied to both types of rice and haven't personally noticed a big discrepancy favoring one over the other as far as speed and yield of the fermentation goes.

    By "hard to digest" amylose as a resistant starch on the Wikipedia page, I think they are referring to human digestion and not yeast digestion.

    Humans have a problem physically digesting amylose when eating cereal grains because its molecular structure, but when we are mashing we break down the polymer and then distill it. The end soju product does not have the same molecular structure so, doesn't effect human digestion the same way. Also, haven't had any issues with yeast propagation in the fermentations either, but like you said…sticky rice has small amounts of amylose.

    Camper; Also, is there a taste difference between using sticky and traditional rice? If so, how would you describe that difference?

    Yes, as I said above, sticky rice is more glutinous and has a much sweeter fuller flavor that translates to the distillate. We preferred this flavor and thought it was much more versatile for our product when pairing. Most other rice varieties, like Korean Meb Ssal (멥쌀) lack sweetness and are more dry, flat, and less complex when distilled.

    Why These ABVs, and Why Two Versions? 

    Camper: Bottling at two ABVs – In Korea what is the standard ABV (if there is one) – the lower or higher proof? If one or the other is standard (I think the lower proof), why did you decide to release it at two proofs in the US? I've noticed that some shochu brands have started doing this, I think to appeal to the bartender/mixology set.

    Traditional soju in the past was consumed a high abv, usually whatever it came off the still at or slightly diluted to taste. The lower abv soju trend came during war times in Korea. To make sure there was enough soju to go around to all the soldiers, they would diluted it in half to double the quantity. The trend of low abv sojus held after the war and never really went back to the high abv style, at least not for the mass market.

    There is no regulation or standard for soju abvs that you have to adhere to in Korea. You are free to release it at what expression you feel is best. Green bottle sojus have been declining in abv every year. Currently, most of the mass produced brands of soju have abv percentages that are in the teens.

    We decided to release at two different abvs. The lower abv (Tokki White) at 23%, which also comes in a smaller 375ml bottle is more for the current trend of drinking with friends paired with food. The higher abv (Tokki Black) at 40%, comes in a 750ml bottle and is more of a nod to the old style sojus and more versatile. It is great for cocktails or just by itself.

    Moving the Distillery to Korea

    In recent news, Tokki Soju just moved their distillery from Brooklyn, New York, to Chungju, Korea. They also have plans to open a tasting room later this year, as well as their flagship bar in 2021. Tokki is launching a gin and a vodka brand this summer, making them the first to distill Western spirits in South Korea. A rum brand is also planned for 2021. 

    This will be a game-changer for cocktail bars in Korea, saving them on high import costs by giving them a local option.

    The gin, Sonbi, will be distilled using citrus, flowers, and spices all native to Korea; only the juniper will be imported.

    Camper: The decision to move the operation to Korea is a unique choice. What was the reason? I'm wondering if there were business reasons/incentives (such as the ability to be the first gin/vodka as a branding move, or government tax breaks or something), versus personal/relationship ones? I see it was mentioned "since all non-Korean spirits are currently imported at extremely high tax rates" that could be a factor if you're betting on sales in Korea.

    There we many factors that went it to the move to Korea. First, you are correct, Korean importation taxes are very high on alcohol. We had an overwhelming fan base in Korea of people who wanted our products, but we were not able to come to market at a reasonable price exporting to Korea from New York. By not being able to offer a competitive price point exporting, we felt we would eliminate many demographics and send the wrong message about our mission.

    Two, we thought if we were going to elevate the Korean spirits category we should start at the source and and produce in Korea. Three, the soju market is much larger here in Korea than the US and gives us more opportunities to grow.

    Camper: Distilling – copper pot still in the US – pot with a column on top or just a pot still?

    We have a hybrid still. We can run it as a pot and as a column. We do a two phase distillation in our process where we use both styles for our soju. First, is the pot stripping run and then cleaned up and finished with the column spirit run.

    Camper: Did you move the still itself to Korea or get a new one?

    We got a brand new still. We are using a much larger system now compared to our Brooklyn operation days. It is double the capacity of our old still.(1500 liters)

    Camper: Assuming the soju will be made the same in the new distillery (it's a new distillery right?), did you get a new still for the vodka/gin – maybe not as I see the vodka base is rice plus GNS – are you planning to do self-distilled rice spirit plus GNS for the vodka? And for the gin is it just GNS or rice spirit in there too? 

    Yes, we have a new facility.

    We did need a hybrid still to continue our same soju recipe, but it is great for a wide range of spirits. Our gin and vodka recipes are not finalized yet. We are in the trial and testing phases for both and looking forward to locking them down this year.

    I can tell you that our vodka will be made with local sticky rice as well and our gin will most likely not contain rice, but will consist of botanicals unique to Korea that I have not seen in a gin before, like kul (귤) for example, which is a variety of Mandarin orange grown on the Korean island of Jeju.

     

    Unnamed

     

  • Ramping up Aromatics in Cognac: How Camus Does it

    When I was in China helping judge the Camus cognac Shanghai Shake, I had the opportunity to interview president Cyril Camus. 

    Recently the language on Camus' core line changed to invoke "intensely aromatic" language on the branding. Cyril says that this has rolled out in the US and some other markets, with more to come. They're particularly promoting the VSOP (using the phrase "Very Special" instead of VS on that marque).

    SONG4598_w3207

     

    I asked Cyril about the reason for the rebrand/change in flavor profile- particularly from a marketing perspective. What was the consumer demand for the change, if any? Was it to be more useful in cocktails? 

    He says that this was not the case. "I think that the density of aromas and lower level of wood allows you to make more aroma-forward cocktails. It's good timing, but wasn't the reason we did it." 

    SONG4956

     

    In the first place, I didn't realize that this flavor profile change wasn't instant; it's more of an evolution of flavor profile building up to the VSOP/XO of today. Cyril says about 15 or 16 years ago, they were trying to define from a consumer standpoint how people define or judge a cognac as the best. They wanted to have a "measureable, distinctive point" of quality over other brands so that they didn't need to rely on the typical language of 'a blend over over X cognacs aged up to Y years' that all the other brands use. 

    They determined three important factors: the density of floral aromas (which they measure via concentration of terpenols); density of fruity aromas (measured in count of esters); and the balance between fruit notes and wood impact. With this in mind, they set out to move the flavor profile towards something "obviously distinctive." 

     

    [all images in this post provided by Camus]

     

    Screen Shot 2019-09-13 at 4.13.21 PM
    Screen Shot 2019-09-13 at 4.13.21 PM

     

    The biggest change made (about ten years or so ago) was distilling on the lees – the dead yeast and other particles from the winemaking process left unfiltered. According to their materials, this raises the amount of esters from 30mg/L up to 70 mg/L. 

    One thing that hasn't changed is Camus' use of grapes from the Borderies region, where Camus is based. Cognac from this region is said to be more floral than from other regions, and this adds to the terpenol count. The Borderies is only about 5% of the total cru for growing cognac grapes. 

     

    Screen Shot 2019-09-13 at 4.13.50 PM

     

    In the vineyard, they make efforts to have the best wine by putting weather stations in the vineyards (only about 10-15% of the grapes they use are from their own property) to know best when to harvest, and then harvesting extra-quickly with larger machines than are strictly necessary. As grapes are being transported to the presses they are seeded with yeast, which I'm guessing is to ensure any natural fermentation that happens along the way happens with their own yeast strains rather than the natural ones from the vineyards. 

    Camus distills about 90% of the wine sourced from about 200 growers (plus their own grapes), and the rest is distilled according to their patented process. 

    About that: another factor in ramping up aromatic intensity is including more of the heads of distillation in the product. Cyril says that the first 20L of the second distillation are the heads are removed and stored separately liter by liter. Cyril says that though the heads are known for being very aromatic and full of esters, they're also pretty unpredictable in quality. So the master distiller will go through and taste/nose the heads and include back into the heart the desired heads fragments. These heads are not aged separately but put into barrel with the hearts.

     

     

    Screen Shot 2019-09-13 at 4.21.20 PM

     

    This brings up the esters from 30mg/L without lees to 70 with lees to 200 mg/L with their "intensity distillation" process. 

     

    Screen Shot 2019-09-13 at 4.13.37 PM

     

    I asked Cyril if since they were making these adjustments gradually if the XO (a minimum of 10 years old) was of the same level of aromatic intensity as they were seeking to achieve with the VSOP. He said that distilling on the lees, which they've been doing for 10 years now, has the majority of the impact, and though the flavor profile will change a bit in the future years, those changes will be minor overall. But, he says, they're now in the position to explain to consumers why they're different. 

    As for the balance of fruit to wood notes, they're also using fine grain oak for their barrels low in tannins and lightly toasted to minimize the wood impact on the spirit. They also use older barrels that have had many of their tannins stripped already. 

     

    Screen Shot 2019-09-13 at 4.14.13 PM

    It's terrific to see some numbers and logic behind what a cognac brand is doing!

     

  • Sour Mashing as Industrial Waste Recycling

    Another exciting bit of information to come out of my visit to the George Dickel distillery was learning more about the sour mashing process. 

    To review (from a recent post about souring at Jack Daniel's):

    "Souring" is not like sourdough starter in that the process' job is to remain consistency between batches. "Souring" means lowering the pH, making it more sour/acidic. "Sour mash"ing is adding backset (stillage) from the previous distillation run to the next one. The stillage contains lots of dead yeast that is food for the new yeast, but also it is acidic and lowers the pH. 

    At Jack Daniel's they use 30% backset/sour mash. That seems like a lot, so I was wondering: If the purpose of it is to simply lower the pH and provide nutrients, wouldn't a far simpler way to do that be to add some dried nutrients and acid like citric or hydrochloric acid? 

    Dickel's distiller Nicole Austin set me straight: the sour mash process is smart industrial waste reuse. Yes, the yeast get nutrients from the sour mash (dead yeast; they're cannibals like that). But the distillery also gets recycled water and heat out of it. 

    IMG_4627

    The sour mash is the hot liquid that comes off the still, separated from the grain solids but still containing dead yeast and other small particles. It has just been boiled during distillation, so obviously it's hot.

    That stillage is added to the cooking as well as the fermentation process at Dickel. In preparing grains for distillation, they are ground up, cooked with hot water to break down carbohydrates into fermentable sugars, and then fermented in the next step. The cooking requires lots of super hot water, and a free source of hot water is the stillage! 

    At Dickel they also add some stillage/sour mash to the fermentation process as well as in cooking. 

    Austin says that in the ideal situation, you'd use all stillage water for cooking and fermentation – that would save fresh water. But the dead yeast solids are a limiting factor – too many of them and they stress the live yeast that needs to ferment the cooked grains. So the stillage water needs to be watered down, essentially. Additionally solids retain a lot of heat so it doesn't cool down as fast and this limits how much they can use. 

    I asked Austin if the sour mashing process then actually has much impact on the flavor of the finished whiskey. She said that it's basically "setting yourself up for success" with a good fermentation. 

    In conclusion, in addition to acidifying and providing dead yeast as nutrients for a healthy fermentation, the sour mash process is industrial recycling, using stillage both for water and for heat. 

    Hooray for new-to-me information! 

  • Deeply Nerdy Stuff About Jack Daniel’s Production – Charcoal, Souring, Fermentation

    B6B63D48-56B5-4613-BA53-9DA2107BE960I just attended an amazing talk by Kevin Brent Smith (Micro-Biologist & Distillery Manager – Jack Daniel's Distillery). I wasn't planning on doing a blog post about it but I learned so much I wanted to write it down! 

    Kevin B. Smith authored the chapter on "Yeast practices in the production of American whiskies" in The Alcohol Textbook.

    First up, you may want to review my notes on my visit to the distillery from 2012 to see the production process in general and in order

     

    Miscellany

    • According to Smith, if your fermentation doesn't finish and you still have sugars in your mash, these can burn and stick in your still, lending off  flavors to the final whiskey. 
    • Whiskey isn't made from grain, it's made from the seeds of grain. (not his point, but my observation)
    • When grinding grains before fermentation, the grinding process can release heat and damage the quality of the grain, but a hammer mill works well and doesn't have an impact. 

     

    Souring In Two Places

    • "Souring" is not like sourdough starter in that the process' job is to remain consistency between batches. "Souring" means lowering the pH, making it more sour/acidic. "Sour mash"ing is adding backset (stillage) from the previous distillation run to the next one. The stillage contains lots of dead yeast that is food for the new yeast, but also it is acidic and lowers the pH from about 5.6 to 5.3. 
    • They use about 30% backset in each distillation. 
    • There is another place where they used soured mash, in the production of "lactic soured yeast mash." This is used in yeast propagation. 
    • Yeast is started from a lab-preserved copy, then propagated in several steps. It grows on a medium for the first couple of rounds, then it's transferred to a grain mash – the lactic soured yeast mash – to propagate further. 
    • In essence, lactic soured yeast mash is propagating yeast with lactic material (lactobacillus; not from the stillage) to lower the pH to about 5.0. 
    • Not all distilleries do this, but Smith says it's a traditional process. All Brown-Forman distilleries use lactic soured yeast mash. 
    • This lactic soured yeast mash will have flavor impacts on the whisky. 

     

    IMG_4157
    IMG_4157
    IMG_4157

     

     

    Enzymes, Fermentation, and Rye Grain

    • Rather than, or in addition to, using malted barley (whose job in American whiskey is to provide enzymes that break down long chain carbohydrates into fermentable simpler sugars), commercial enzymes (not from the barley) can be added to whiskey. This has become common.
    • Jack Daniel's does not use commercial enzymes, and in fact most Brown-Forman whiskies do not. This is because commercial enzymes produce less maltose in the conversion process, which they feel leads to less flavor in the whiskey. 
    • (However they keep some enzymes around in case of emergencies, for if a batch of mash didn't convert all the way they could add some enzymes rather than trying to throw away a huge vat of basically sticky grain pudding.)
    • Rye as a grain is notoriously viscous/sticky and tends to gum up the process. At Jack Daniel's they do use a type of enzyme (different from the standard one for conversion) to help make it less sticky; but not to convert its starches into sugars. 
    • Another thing that helps rye not be so sticky is that it is added to the mash later in the process than the corn is. Corn is mashed at a hot temperature which is necessary for gelatinization, but if you leave rye with the hot water for very long it gets stickier. So it's added just before the malt is added at the end of the mashing process just before fermentation. You can see this on the graph below. 
    • After fermentation, their beer is at a pH of 4.6, while companies that don't use the soured yeast mash have a more acidic 4.0 beer.

     

    IMG_4160

     

    Note that the next three charts are the same, with added information each time. 

    IMG_4160IMG_4160IMG_4160

     

    Charcoal

    • Charcoal mellowing (aka the Lincoln Country Process) was needed in the olden days because distillers didn't have a good handle on consistent fermentation; charcoal filtration was needed to remove some off flavors in whiskey.
    • Running the newly-distilled spirit through charcoal is not a purely subtractive process, which is what I thought until today.
    • Sugar Maple trees are used to make the charcoal because it's an abundant but not terribly useful wood generally, and it doesn't impart much flavor. The wood is burned and then the fire put out. The larger pieces of charcoal are broken up and filled into vats. 
    • The charcoal production does not make activated charcoal. However the charcoal does do some adsorptive filtration of the whiskey to remove certain components. 
    • The additive quality of the charcoal is that minerals in the charcoal are extracted by the whiskey. The whiskey comes off the still at around 5.5 pH, and after charcoal filtration it goes up to a pH of 7.5 -  8.0!  So this has lowered the acidity of the whiskey substantially and probably adds to the perceived "mellowness" of the whiskey. FASCINATING. 
    • Why is this exciting? Because it makes me think about either running spirits/cocktails through a Brita to raise the pH for certain purposes, and or taking the direct route of "mellowing" spirits (or just de-acidifying them) by adding minerals to them.
    • (I've done lots of work on how the minerals in water affects how whiskey tastes, would be curious to try things with just minerals and whiskey.)
    • For example, most spirits are a bit acidic so if we filtered them or added minerals that will raise the pH. Butterfly pea flower tea usually starts out blue in water (neutral pH) but purpleish in spirits. If we want it to start out blue in spirits, maybe we just alter the pH first? 

    Charcoal Practicalities

    • In olden days, the charcoal vats were used until the charcoal was no longer effective, as measured by taste. Then (I think in the 1980s-ish) they standardized it so that vats were used for 6 months then the charcoal was replaced. However in recent years they did chemical analysis and found that this was excessive, so now they use the charcoal for one year before replacing it. [When I last visited the distillery in 2012 it was 4-5 months.]
    • When the whiskey is poured over new charcoal it comes out watery (as the charcoal starts out wet) and they cannot use it until it comes out the bottom of the vat at the same 140 proof that it went in. Also, at the end of the year before they replace the charcoal they run water through it and the resulting water has lots of whiskey in it. So these watery "heads and tails" of the charcoal mellowing process are redistilled. [I'm not sure if the redistilled parts are used for whiskey or, more likely I'd guess, refined into neutral spirit for other products.] 
    • To make sure all the whiskey comes through the process tasting the same, their many different vats are spaced out in the freshness of their charcoal so that there is an average age of 6 months age on the charcoal being used, rather than having all whiskey from one vat change over time and be barrelled tasting different. 

     

    Thanks to Jack Daniel's for a wonderfully nerdy session.