Category: Uncategorized

What’s up with my iPhone-tography skills? Do I have to be good at everything?

Anyway, Beretta. I was only thinking about the cocktails when I went there, but it turns out that with inexpensive food and lots of communal seating, this may be the one cocktail restaurant in which I can actually afford to eat. (Small plates priced as small plates- what a concept!)

But back to the important stuff: the drinks. Thad Vogler’s drinks, unlike many in San Francisco, eschew the farmer’s market fruit, flowers, and herbs in favor of the basics- lime, lemon, grapefruit, and pineapple. The flavor profile of most could be considered classic for that reason, but as opposed to classic derivative drinks that go wild with brown spirits and amaros or other unusual modifiers, these cocktails are more like simple drinks reconsidered.

What sticks out is the types of sweetening agents used in each drink- honey, gomme syrup (made by Slanted Door’s Jennifer Colliau), sugar cane syrup, agave syrup, etc. I don’t know if they use plain old simple syrup at all. But when you drink them, “sweet” isn’t a word that comes to mind. Vogler makes the driest drinks in town. He uses a lot of gin, rhum agricole, and maraschino liqueur, and even the Pisco Sour isn’t sweet (or all that sour- it’s almost earthy).

Of the drinks I tried, the Nuestra Paloma is the most pleasing and probably the safest bet for the less adventurous drinker (It’s delicious- don’t get me wrong). The Dolores Park Swizzle looks great with a few drops of bitters atop the crushed ice of the drink like a happy red treat, but packs a wallop of flavor. I like it more as the ice melts starts and dilutes it. The same is true of the Rangoon Gin Cobbler, my favorite drink on the menu so far that has a nice orange aspect to it from the Cointreau. I also liked the Single Village Fix, making this the second time I’ve ever enjoyed a drink with mescal in it.

Is anyone else bored of my typing? I am. Long story short: tasty dry drinks, go good with food, it’s in my neighborhood, I’ll be back lots.

Labels: bars, cocktails, SanFrancisco

When Beretta opens (currently scheduled for April 1), cocktail fans will recognize many familiar faces behind the bar. Thad Vogler (Slanted Door, Jardiniere, Bourbon & Branch) is leading the bar program, and some of the people taking shifts there will be Jon Santer (Bruno’s, Range, Tres Agaves, B&B), Todd Smith (Cortez, B&B), Ryan Fitzgerald (Tres Agaves, B&B, Brick), and Eric Johnson (Eastside West, B&B). Vogler says it’s coincidence that they were all looking to pick up a shift or two, but I’m already nicknaming the venue the Valencia Street All-Star Bar.

Though not finalized at this point, Vogler gave me the gist of his bar program: a paired-down spirits selection, quality valued more than quantity, and execution over innovation. They’ll be carrying only two brands of vodka (one local, the other organic), but a good selection of gins, rums, aperitifs, and liqueurs. The cocktail list looks like it will include a lot of classic profile drinks emphasizing the American, Latin, and Caribbean base spirits.

I think it’s going to be an interesting place, especially because this bar program is running in a pizzeria restaurant.

Labels: bars, SanFrancisco

News from Bourbon & Branch:

• They’ve added classes on Cocktails 101, Rum, and Absinthe to the Beverage Academy
• Taking co-management positions after Todd Smith’s departure are Joel Baker and Yanni Kehagiaras (pictured)
• Russell’s Room, an additional private room built into the former barbershop next door, is scheduled to open in April.

Labels: bars, education, SanFrancisco

Plymouth gin is the bartender’s favorite brand here in San Francisco. What’s nice is that the brand sponsors events to thank them for it. In the winter they offered a lecture on molecular mixology techniques, and earlier this week they flew in David Wondrich to lead a big group on a cocktail history tour of San Francisco. Always the hanger-on, I crashed the party.

We started at the Buena Vista Cafe for an Irish Coffee to get us warmed up. We then each took a flask filled with Sydney Ducks Punch (named after San Francisco’s most notorious gang of the Gold Rush era), and headed off to North Beach.

We stopped into Vesuvio for a Negroni and pizza. None of these things have anything to do with San Francisco cocktail history but Vesuvio is a cool old bar. Then we headed to the site of the El Dorado (where the Hilton is on Kearny now), a bar/hotel with a tent ceiling, chandelier, and all-female orchestra. It is reported that Jerry Thomas worked there, though no proof has been found. It was so posh the bartender used a solid gold muddler, which someone suggested that Mr. Mojito recreate and sell online.

Close by at the site of the Transamerica building was the Bank Exchange where the Pisco Punch was invented. We called up pisco historian Guillermo Toro-Lira and yelled “cheers!” while he was on speakerphone.

Next up was the site of the Occidental Hotel at 130 Montgomery, where Jerry Thomas worked his second time living in San Francisco. Then we headed to the Palace Hotel where Cocktail Bill Boothby was the head bartender, and had the Palace Cocktail (gin, orange juice, pineapple syrup, egg white) while hearing about its pre-and post-quake history.

Our last stop for food, jazz, and many more drinks was the House of Shields, which will be celebrating its 100th anniversary this April. There we learned about the history of the Gibson cocktail, which was created in SF in the late 1890’s. It was simply London dry gin and dry vermouth, without the orange bitters and garnish that defined a Martini. A Gibson with an olive was called a St. Francis Cocktail and popularized at the St. Francis Hotel. The Gibson eventually became the Martini, so to distinguish the old drink from the new martini they added a cocktail onion as in the Gibson we know today.

Luckily I wrote that down because on our sixth hour of drinking the details got fuzzy. I continued to stay and hang out with the crew until long after it was reasonable, then spent the next day reflecting quietly on the previous night’s adventures.

Labels: cocktails, gin

Big news in SF barland: Todd Smith has turned in his resignation at Bourbon & Branch. He’s been with them since long before they opened but said, “It’s time for me to move on and do another project.”

He told me he plans to take some time off and work on some consulting gigs he’s firming up now, as well as potentially opening his own space with some other bartenders down the road. And though the details are still being hammered out, he plans to remain with the Beverage Academy teaching classes there.

Speaking of the Beverage Academy, they added their first scotch whisky class on March 25th with Dominic Venegas as the instructor. The rum class will likely start in April with Thad Vogler at the helm.

Best of luck both the Bourbon & Branch and Todd Smith!

Labels: bars, news, SanFrancisco

The text of my Belgian beer bars story from San Francisco Magazine is now online here. And if you’re interested, my Aspen travel piece is here.

Labels: beer, camper_clips, travel

This past year has been busy, crazy, and wonderful. I realize it’s only been a little over a year since I started writing about cocktails and spirits full-time. That seems ludicrous, as I’ve learned so much since my first big feature in the SF Chronicle in October of 2006. And the thing is, I still don’t feel like I know anything. That’s great because I get bored easily and it will be a very long time before I am sick of this topic. Cheers to that.

This year, I went on visits to the following distilleries/breweries:

• Canadian Mist (near Toronto)
• Blue Ice Vodka (Idaho)
• 209 Gin (San Francisco)
• Genevieve/Junipero/Old Potrero (San Francisco)
• Mount Gay Rum (Barbados)
• Chopin Vodka (Warsaw, Poland)
• Finlandia Vodka (near Helsinki, Finland)
• Don Julio Tequila (Jalisco, Mexico)
• 4 Copas Tequila (Jalisco, Mexico)
• Partida Tequila (Jalisco, Mexico)
• El Tesoro Tequila (Jalisco, Mexico)
• Herradura Tequila (Jalisco, Mexico)
• Cazadores Tequila (Jalisco, Mexico)
• Sake One Sake (near Portland, Oregon)
• Takara Sake (Berkeley, California)

Plus additional trips to New York, Aspen, and Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans.

Wow. I’d like to thank the sponsors of those trips. Thanks! You learn so much more about products from visiting the distillery and especially talking to the distillers at each.

I hope that the next year is pretty close to this one in content and adventure, but perhaps with a little more cash and health insurance and book deals added in there somewhere. Here’s to continued good drinking in ’08!

Labels: travel, writing_life

By me, in today’s SF Chronicle:

Daytime Cocktails for New Years Brunch
Camper English, Special to the Chronicle

New Year’s Day often arrives with one pondering the previous night’s indulgences and the resulting aftereffects. On the upside, this can also be done with a cocktail in hand.

Whether consuming them to nurse the previous night’s hangover or just to pass the lazy New Year’s holiday, adults have a free pass to enjoy cocktails before noon on Tuesday.

Typical brunch cocktails include the bloody Mary, mimosa, screwdriver and Irish coffee, with fresh derivations of these standards now on morning menus throughout the Bay Area. Additionally, frothy Southern breakfast drinks like the Ramos gin fizz are coming back into vogue, though drinkers’ aversions to raw eggs and the negative associations with imbibing in the morning may be obstacles to their popularity.

In “The Joy of Drinking,” author Barbara Holland addresses the National Institutes of Health’s “pompous treatise” against readministration of alcohol (more widely known as “the hair of the dog that bit you”) to cure the hangover, for fear that it encourages alcoholism.

She writes, “I don’t know what social circles the NIH travels in, but I myself have never seen any sufferer, after shakily sipping his bloody Mary, let out a whoop, grab the vodka bottle and chug it down.”

Read the rest of the story here.

Labels: camper_clips, cocktails, SanFrancisco

By me, in today’s SF Chromicle:

Splurge on a $12,000 bottle of scotch
Though the product isn’t available until January, the whiskey lover in your life probably won’t mind the IOU for this $12,000 Macallan 55-year-old single-malt Scotch packaged in a custom Lalique crystal bottle. The spirit inside is unusual for Macallan as it has more of an earthy, peaty profile than their younger whiskies, and the funky bottle on the outside is unusual in that there are only 420 of them on the market. (To get one, inquire at Macallan55@remyusa.com.)

Labels: camper_clips, scotch, whisky

By me, in today’s SF Chronicle:

Drink Menus Explore Virgin Territory with Alcohol-Free Cocktails
Camper English, Special to the Chronicle

Bay Area restaurants and bars are increasingly devoting space on their menus to alcohol-free drinks. These concoctions are more complicated than simple sodas and juices, involving the same glassware, seasonal ingredients and fresh garnishes as drinks with the hard stuff.

This trend of enticing consumers with nonalcoholic cocktails, rather than leaving it to them to request a virgin version of another drink, owes much to the current emphasis in better cocktail bars on creating drinks with seasonal ingredients. These fresh drinks can be translated fairly easily into alcohol-free versions, whereas in other bars, a nonalcoholic Jack and Coke is just a Coke.

Josh Harris, bar manager of Palmetto on Union Street in Cow Hollow, says that in the first month or so of being open, the menu listed only drinks with alcohol, but patrons would see the fresh cocktails being made and request alcohol-free versions.

“Some of them translated (to nonalcoholic drinks) very well, and some of them not well at all,” he says.

Read the rest of the story here.

Labels: bars, camper_clips, cocktails, SanFrancisco