Category: whisky

  • A Visit to MGP’s Lawrenceburg Distillery

    As most of you nerds already know, most of the rye whiskey produced in the US is made at MGP Ingredients, aka Midwest Grain Products. They also make a ton of bourbon and neutral spirit used for vodka and gin. These products are fermented and distilled on site, aged on site or elsewhere, and bottled up as a zillion different brands on the marketplace. 

    Now in the past few years, MGP has begun to release a range of their own products. Interestingly they're not all under MGP as a brand name but under various names including George Remus bourbon, Till vodka, and Rossville Union rye whiskey. The press trip I took to the distillery was more about introducing these products to the world than the various client brands made here, but naturally that was of interest too. 

     

    History and Products

    The distillery was officially founded in 1847 by George Ross as Rossville Distillery, though they've found evidence that there has been distilling on the site going back to at least 1808. In 1933 at the end of Prohibition, the distillery was purchased by Seagram and run by the company until 2001. The company was sold to Pernod-Ricard and owned by them until 2007, when it was purchased by MGP. 

    MGP itself is a company founded in 1941 to make high-test alcohol for torpedos to support the war effort. They actually own two distilleries though we only hear about this one.

    At the Lawrenceburg distillery (outside Cincinnati but on the border of Ohio, Kentucky, and Indiana) they mostly produce the aged products – whiskies- though they also do some gin and neutral spirits. The other distillery, located in Atchison, Kansas (the site of the company headquarters where it was founded) distills neutral spirits and makes gin.  

     

    MGP - Lawrenceburg(The Lawrenceburg distillery, pics from MGP)

    MGP - Lawrenceburg(The Atchison distillery that I did not visit. Pic from MGP.)

     

    Lawrenceburg

     

    Of all the products (listed here), the most well-known and popular that they sell to various brands are the:

    • 95% rye whiskey (a mashbill of 95% rye, 5% malted barley)
    • 51% rye whiskey (51% rye, 45% corn, 4% malted barley)
    • bourbon 36% rye (60% corn, 36% rye, 4% malted barley)
    • bourbon 21% rye (75% corn, 21% rye, 4% malted barley)

    So when you see those mashbills listed on products with various names (particular the 95% rye), there is a super good chance they were distilled at MGP. 

    Since they're dealing with lots and lots of grain, they also make grain products (list here), including raw ingredients for everything from pastries to pizza crust to imitation cheese. 

    I asked them how many mashbills they make in total. "We make a lot," came the definitive reply. 

     

    MGP Spirits

    I was a bit worried that the MGP brands were just going to be the regular MGP products as all the various other brands with a different label and not have anything to say about them. Luckily there is a clear point of differentiation. When it comes to the vodka, theirs is made from wheat, when most of their clients' vodka is made from corn. But more importantly, the whiskies:

    While nearly all their clients bottle whiskey that's of a single mashbill, MGP brand whiskies are all combinations of multiple mashbills. So George Remus Straight Bourbon Whiskey is a mix of the 21 and 36 percent high rye bourbons, and Rossville Union is a blend of the 95 and 51 percent rye mashbills.

    This gives these products a point of differentiation from their many clients' products. 

     

    A Look Around the Distillery

    The facility is a bunch of brick buildings located on one site, like a campus with no student lawns or a really big depressing orphanage. Different buildings house different parts of the operation – the grain store, fermentation room, distillery, grain dryer, barrel warehouses, etc. 

    The facility is not set up for tourists or photography, and basically we were able to see what we could see. 

    IMG_3762
    IMG_3762
    IMG_3762

    IMG_3762
    IMG_3762

     

    The water for the distillery comes from an aquifer, and it remains a constant 56 degrees Fahrenheit year-round. That's very convenient as in the hot summers the water is still cool to run through the condensers. 

    The fermentation room (there are 14, 27,000 gallon vats in this room; there is another room but I'm not sure if it's the same size). Fermentation takes about 3 days. 

     

    IMG_3780
    IMG_3780

     

    We were unable to take pictures in the distillery room, but as it passes through several floors of a building we could really only see one section of the column still and a part of the squareish gin stills anyway. In this facility there are three gin stills and two continuous column stills.

    We visited one warehouse – there are seven on-site and I think 5 more elsewhere (though I'm not confident in those numbers). 

    This warehouse has six floors with six tiers per floor, with each floor separate from those above and below it acting as a "horizontal aging chamber." This is unlike the "vertical aging chamber" rickhouses in Kentucky where it's an open model (there's a frame on the outside but it acts as one big room) and the bottom level is cool while the top floor is super hot. The Kentucky rickhouses lose more water, as opposed to the humid ones here. They say that makes for a mellower whiskey. 

    Their standard barrel entry proof for whiskey is 120. We visited just the one warehouse that was racked. I inquired if their others might be palletized and the person I spoke to was evasive enough about answering that we can assume some are. 

     

    IMG_3786
    IMG_3786
    IMG_3786

     

    Product Specifics

    So far, most of the line of MGP spirits is available in about 13 states. They're moving systematically rather than hitting the whole country at once. 

    MGPProductLineUp

     

    Tanner's Creek whiskey, a blended bourbon, is only available in Indiana. 

    Eight & Sand blended whiskey is the newest product. It contains no GNS (grain neutral spirits), and no coloring.  It's more than 51% bourbon bottled at 44% ABV. It's a blend of bourbon, rye, light whiskey, and corn whiskey. 

    "Eight and Sand" refers to a train going full-throttle (the eight) with added traction (sand on the tracks). 

    George Remus Bourbon is a blend of 21 and 36% rye bourbons, aged 5-6 years and bottled at 47%. 

    George Remus, the person, was a pharmacist turned attorney. He  wrote prescriptions for medicinal whiskey during Prohibition and had his own brand of medicinal whiskey. Not only that, but he had his own medicinal whiskey trucks "hijacked" so that he could report the whiskey stolen and sell it illegally. He was known as "King of the Bootleggers" and may have been the inspiration for Jay Gatsby. He murdered his wife but was acquitted for 'temporary insanity.' More about his life here

    There is also a George Remus Reserve bottling and so far there have been two of these.

    Rossville Union rye whiskey is a blend of their 51% and 95% rye whiskey mashbill whiskeys aged about 5-6 years. The standard bottling is 47% ABV. 

    They also sell a barrel-proof Rossville Union rye, and it's my favorite of their products. It's about the same age as their standard rye, but with a different ratio of rye mashbills. It has all that lovely pickle brine flavor but bottled at 56.3% ABV. 

     

    IMG_3791
    IMG_3791

     

  • Comparing Continuous Fermentation in Baijiu with Sour Mash Whiskey and Jamaican Muck Pits

    Another baijiu post yessss! Today I want to think about how the circular fermentation process in baijiu is like and unlike sour mash in whiskey and muck pits in Jamaican rum. 

    Recent posts have been:

    No need to read them all now. 

     

    As described in this post, in strong aroma baijiu, grains are fermented in earthen pits, distilled as solids, and fermented again in the same pits they came out of. A little bit of new grain is added to each fermentation cycle along with the already-distilled grain. 

    This may sound slightly familiar: in "sour mash" whiskey, some of the post-distillation materials are added to the next fermentation batch. 

    And in Jamaican rum, some distilleries use "muck pits" that are blends of previous stillage fermenting together. Some amount of this is thrown into new fermentation batches. 

    So let's talk about how these are alike and how they may be different. 

     

    Sour Mash

    Frementation vatsI had always heard that sour mashing was done for "consistency between batches" and thought that "sour mash" is like sourdough, where live fermenting material goes into following batches so they're consistent with each other. This turns out not to be the case. 

    Instead, some of the stillage (the leftover liquid in the still after distillation) is added to the next fermentation batch. Because the stillage has just been in a still that is literally boiling hot, there is no live yeast to transfer from one batch to the next. The sour mash is just acidifying the fermentation vessel to adjust the pH for a better fermentation and to prevent bacterial infection. The quantity of stillage used could be considered part of a distillery's recipe. 

     

    Muck Pits

    IMG_4631In some Jamaican rums, the stillage (leftovers after distillation) is called dunder, and it is mixed up with other leftovers of the rum production process into something called muck. 

    From an excellent post on CocktailWonk.com called, "Days of Dunder: Setting the Record Straight on Jamaican Rum’s Mystery Ingredient"

    [Muck is] a giant bolus of bacteria that creates a soup of carboxylic acids…  muck is essentially a biological reactor for generating acids that eventually turn into yummy esters. It’s fed refuse from various parts of the rum production process, and its pH level is carefully nurtured via the addition of marl to keep it in humming along or dormant, as necessary. 

    At the end of fermentation, a portion of muck is tossed in with the fermented molasses and it's distilled together to produce hugely-flavorful rum. Note that unlike in sour mashing, they want to promote bacteria- at least the right bacteria.

    So, here again we have leftover products from the distillation being added to the next batch, but the purpose is to get those bacteria-generated acids into the still. 

    Not only is the muck not just the leftovers of one distillation, some of the core bacteria of it is stored in nerd-famous "muck graves" at some distilleries. CocktailWonk writes in the same blog post:

    So what of these stories about outdoor muck pits in the bare ground? … they do store a semi-solid version of the muck in the ground, as a form of long-term storage for the dormant bacteria. Distilleries commonly start and stop production [and the semi-solid bacteria can be used to restart the muck]. By carefully adjusting the pH of the muck, it can be put into a semi-stable state, where it can be stored in an earthen pit. … the pit is slightly bigger than the size of a human grave.

     

    1,000-Year Pit, 10,000-Year Mash

    IMG_2715The name for the process of repeat fermentation in baijiu is "1,000-year pit, 10,000-year mash." I was confused by the phrasing: how could the mash (the fermenting material) be older than the pit that the mash is fermented in? But it was explained to me that 10,000 years basically means "forever" or "endless" So we could rephrase "1,000-year pit, 10,000-year mash" as something like "ancient pit, endless mash." It speaks to the endless cycle of always using some of the previous distillation run in the next fermentation. 

    So as with sour mash and muck, some of the stuff comes out of the still and goes into the next fermentation (in strong aroma baijiu, it's all of the stuff that comes out of the still). 

    Like muck, qu  (the fermentation agent for baijiu made up of mold, yeast, and bacteria) contains flavor-creating bacteria that distillers want to impact their beverage. But it's not the only place that bacteria come into contact with the fermenting mash. Because the fermentation takes place in earthen pits and covered with mud, the dirt and mud is a home to bacteria from all the previous batches as well- thus the continuity. Sort of like a muck pit.  But in this case, that bacteria is present throughout the fermentation, and no doubt that's the reason the pits are covered and sealed rather than left open to ferment as with other spirits. 

     

    Different Places

    Now, there are other cracks and crannies in distillation where bacteria can live and have multi-batch impacts on the resulting distillates.

    Many distilleries are very proud of their wooden fermentation vats, rather than using stainless steel. Like the mud pits and muck pits, bacteria could technically live on between batches of whatever is being fermented. 

    Olmeca altos tahona2In a recent story for The Daily Beast, Wayne Curtis wondered if the volcanic tahona stones that are sometimes used to crush agave before fermentation might harbor bacteria as well. He writes:

    Another factor possibly in play: microbes. Volcanic stones are semi-porous, hard to clean, and can serve as a home to microorganisms, which in theory could make their way into the fermentation process and influence flavors. Camarena doesn’t rule out microbial influence. “I don’t know,” he says. “We’re dealing with microorganisms floating around here, and nothing gets sterilized.”

    “Fantasy,” argues Rodriguez. “Here at Patrón, we do an intensive cleaning process from batch to batch. Our yeast and production process are what is responsible for the flavors of Patrón tequila.”

    I suppose there could be other pieces of equipment, containers, and tools harboring helpful bacteria in various spirit production around the world.

    To what extent each may impact the final flavor of the individual distillate I don't know, but it's fun to compare common practices across categories. 

     

     

     

  • All the Cocktail and Spirits Books Released in 2018, In Consideration for Gifting or Reading

    It's the annual Alcademics drink book round-up! These are all the cocktails and spirits books that I know about published in 2018, with a couple of wine and beer books thrown in for good measure. It's over 60 books in total. Read them yourself or give 'em as gifts. 

    This year there appear to be less overall history books, and more women-centric books, whether history or not. Cocktail recipe books are all quite specific, with several that focus on theory and technique; and these overlap with books designed with the professional bartender in mind.

    Get to reading.  

     

    Cocktail/Recipe Books

    IMG-2556Julep: Southern Cocktails Refashioned by Alba Huerta and Marah Stets 

    The One-Bottle Cocktail: More than 80 Recipes with Fresh Ingredients and a Single Spirit by Maggie Hoffman

    Tequila Beyond Sunrise: Over 40 tequila and mezcal-based cocktails from around the world by Jesse Estes

    Finding Mezcal: A Journey into the Liquid Soul of Mexico, with 40 Cocktails by Ron Cooper and Chantal Martineau

    Wild Mocktails and Healthy Cocktails: Home-grown and foraged low-sugar recipes from the Midnight Apothecary by Lottie Muir

    Infused Booze: Over 60 Batched Spririts and Liqueurs to Make at Home by Kathy Kordalis

    Session Cocktails: Low-Alcohol Drinks for Any Occasion by Drew Lazor and Editors of PUNCH

    The Cocktail Garden: Botanical Cocktails for Every Season by Ed Loveday and Adriana Picker

    Booze & Vinyl: A Spirited Guide to Great Music and Mixed Drinks by André Darlington and Tenaya Darlington

    Doctor's Orders: Over 50 inventive cocktails to cure, revive & enliven by Chris Edwards and Dave Tregenza

    Cocktail Italiano: The Definitive Guide to Aperitivo: Drinks, Nibbles, and Tales of the Italian Riviera by Annette Joseph

    Clean + Dirty Drinking: 100+ Recipes for Making Delicious Elixirs, With or Without Booze by Gabriella Mlynarczyk

    Are You There God? It's Me, Margarita: More Cocktails with a Literary Twist (A Tequila Mockingbird Book)  by Tim Federle 

    The Art & Craft of Coffee Cocktails: Over 80 recipes for mixing coffee and liquor by Jason Clark

    Aperitif: A Spirited Guide to the Drinks, History and Culture of the Aperitif by Kate Hawkings

    The Joy of Mixology, Revised and Updated Edition: The Consummate Guide to the Bartender's Craft by Gary Regan

    The Dead Rabbit Mixology & Mayhem: The Story of John Morrissey and the World’s Best Cocktail Menu by Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry

    Nightcap: More than 40 Cocktails to Close Out Any Evening by Kara Newman

    Be Your Own Bartender: A Surefire Guide to Finding (and Making) Your Perfect Cocktail by Carey Jones and John McCarthy

    Cocktail Codex: Fundamentals, Formulas, Evolutions by Alex Day and Nick Fauchald

    Winter Drinks: 70 Essential Cold-Weather Cocktails by Editors of PUNCH

    Tequila: Shake, Muddle, Stir: Over 40 of the Best Cocktails for Tequila and Mezcal Lovers by Dan Jones

    Pickle Juice: A Revolutionary Approach to Making Better Tasting Cocktails and Drinks by Florence Cherruault

    The Mini Bar: 100 Essential Cocktail Recipes; 8 Notebook Set by Editors of PUNCH

    The Curious Bartender Volume II: The New Testament of Cocktails by Tristan Stephenson 

    Glamorous Cocktails: Fashionable mixes from iconic London bars  by William Yeoward 

    Prosecco Made Me Do It: 60 Seriously Sparkling Cocktails by Amy Zavatto 

    Rock Cocktails: 50 rock 'n' roll drinks recipes―from Gin Lizzy to Guns 'n' Rosés

    Northern Hospitality with The Portland Hunt + Alpine Club: A Celebration of Cocktails, Cooking, and Coming Together by Andrew Volk and Briana Volk

    The Aviary Cocktail Book by Grant Achatz, Micah Melton, Nick Kokonas, Allen and Sarah Hemberger.

    The Cocktail Companion: A Guide to Cocktail History, Culture, Trivia and Favorite Drinks by Cheryl Charming

    Drink London (London Guides)  by Euan Ferguson

    Beachbum Berry's Sippin' Safari: Tenth Anniversary Expanded Edition by Jeff Beachbum Berry

     

     

    Wine Books 

    Wild Winemaking: Easy & Adventurous Recipes Going Beyond Grapes, Including Apple Champagne, Ginger–Green Tea Sake, Key Lime–Cayenne Wine, and 142 More by Richard W. Bender

    Ten Grapes to Know: The Ten and Done Wine Guide by Catherine Fallis

    Wine Food: New Adventures in Drinking and Cooking by Dana Frank and Andrea Slonecker

    The Sommelier's Atlas of Taste: A Field Guide to the Great Wines of Europe by Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay 

    Prosecco Made Me Do It: 60 Seriously Sparkling Cocktails by Amy Zavatto

     

    Spirit Books, Misc.

    The Connoisseur’s Guide to Worldwide Spirits: Selecting and Savoring Whiskey, Vodka, Scotch, Rum, Tequila . . . and Everything Else (An Expert’s Guide … and Savoring Every Spirit in the World) by Richard Carleton Hacker

     Tabletop Distilling: How to Make Spirits, Essences, and Essential Oils with Small Stills by Kai Möller

    The Gin Dictionary by David T. Smith

    The Book of Vermouth: A Bartender and a Winemaker Celebrate the World's Greatest Aperitif by Shaun Byrne and Gilles Lapalus

    The Curious Bartender's Guide to Gin: How to appreciate gin from still to serve by Tristan Stephenson 

     

    Women-Centric Drink Books

    IMG-2558Craft Cocktails by Val: Drinks Inspired by Hillary Rodham Clinton

    Drinking Like Ladies: 75 modern cocktails from the world's leading female bartenders; Includes toasts to extraordinary women in history by Misty Kalkofen and Kirsten Amann

    Liberated Spirits: Two Women Who Battled Over Prohibition by Hugh Ambrose and John Schuttler

    A Woman's Drink: Bold Recipes for Bold Women by Natalka Burian 

    Movers and Shakers: Women Making Waves in Spirits, Beer & Wine by Hope Ewing

    Free the Tipple: Kickass Cocktails Inspired by Iconic Women 
    by Jennifer Croll (Author), Kelly Shami (Illustrator)

     

     History Books

    A Short History of Drunkenness: How, Why, Where, and When Humankind Has Gotten Merry from the Stone Age to the Present by Mark Forsyth 

    A Thousand Thirsty Beaches: Smuggling Alcohol from Cuba to the South during Prohibition by Lisa Lindquist Dorr

    Moonshine: A Celebration of America's Original Rebel Spirit by John Schlimm

    A Drinkable Feast: A Cocktail Companion to 1920s Paris  by Philip Greene 

     

    Beer, Mead, Cider

    Mead: The Libations, Legends, and Lore of History's Oldest Drink by Fred Minnick 

    Will Travel for Beer: 101 Remarkable Journeys Every Beer Lover Should Experience by Stephen Beaumont 

    Beer: 150 Awesome Facts About Your Favorite Brew by Caroline West

    Ciderology: From History and Heritage to the Craft Cider Revolution by Gabe Cook

    The Craft Beer Dictionary: An A-Z of craft beer, from hop to glass by Richard Croasdale

    Kitchen Brewing: A New, Easier and Quicker Way to Home Brew by Jakob Nielsen and Mikael Zetterberg

     

    Bar, Drinking Culture, and Professional Books 

    IMG-2560Bars, Taverns, and Dives New Yorkers Love: Where to Go, What to Drink by John Tebeau

    Drinking Distilled: A User's Manual by Jeffrey Morgenthaler

    I'm Just Here for the Drinks: A Guide to Spirits, Drinking and More Than 100 Extraordinary Cocktails by Sother Teague

    Hungover: The Morning After and One Man's Quest for the Cure by Shaughnessy Bishop-Stall

    Allergen Awareness: A Chef's Perspective by Myron Keith Norman

    Batched & Bottled by Max Venning 

    The Cocktail Bar: Notes for an Owner & Operator by Chall Gray

     

    Whiskey Books

    From Dram to Manhattan: Around the world in 40 whisky cocktails from Scotch to Bourbon by Jesse Estes

    Hacking Whiskey: Smoking, Blending, Fat Washing, and Other Whiskey Experiments by Aaron Goldfarb 

    The Bourbon Bible by Eric Zandona 

    Whiskey America  by Dominic Roskrow 

    Single Malt: A Guide to the Whiskies of Scotland: Includes Profiles, Ratings, and Tasting Notes for More Than 330 Expressions by Clay Risen

    World's Best Whiskies:750 Unmissable Drams from Tain to Tokyo by Dominic Roskrow  

    Bourbon Justice: How Whiskey Law Shaped America by Brian F. Haara 

     

     

    Not enough books for you? Check out:

    All the drink books that came out in 2017

    All the Cocktails and Spirits Books Published in 2016 for Reading or Gifting

    All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting

    More Than 40 Drink Books Published in 2014 for Reading or Gifting

     

  • The Future of San Francisco Cocktails (Predicted By Me) in San Francisco Magazine

    SF Mag cover Feb 2018It has been many years since I have contributed to San Francisco Magazine, but now I'm back! In the new February Bars & Nightlife issue, I have ten stories loosely themed around "Future proofing the cocktail: How Bay Area drink makers are reinventing our favorite alcoholic beverages."

    Below is the intro with links to all ten stories and brief intros from me. 

     

    Two decades into the Bay Area’s cocktail awakening, you’d think that bars would have settled into a comfortable middle age—the imbibing equivalent of staying home to Netflix and chill. But you’d be wrong.

    Creativity stirs all over the region, and drink makers and bar owners continue to spin out new ways to stay relevant and keep us guessing: with secret menus, popup concepts, and menu launch parties; with vibrant drinks, exotic ingredients, and bar-specific spirits; with quality concoctions served at double the speed, thanks to newfangled juices and outsourced ice. And to meet the expanding demand for quality, novelty, and expediency in booze consumption, new clusters of great bars have sprung up not just in the East Bay but also to the north and south. These changes are often nuanced but pervasive, taking place across many bars in many precincts throughout the ever-thirsty Bay Area.

    Scanning the cocktail horizon, you can spot the big ideas and the small revisions that are changing the way we drink in 2018 and beyond. Here are 10 of them.

    Bartenders Are Going Straight to the Source 

    How bartenders are directing spirits creation from distillers. 

    Forget The Simple Description: These Are Very Complicated Cocktails

    A look into the mind of Adam Chapman from The Gibson.

    Wine Country Has An Unofficial Cocktail AVA

    Drinks at the fantastic Duke's and other Healdsburg cocktail bars. 

    The Future (and Present, Actually) Is Female

    Who runs the bars? Girls. A sampling of ten women running things in Bay Area Bars. 

    Asian Restaurants Are the Center of Cocktail Innovation

    Once the home of sake bombs and soju immitations of real drinks, now Asian restaurants are some of the most forward-looking. 

    Viking Drinks Are So Hot Right Now

    Aquivit will be everywhere in 2018.

    You'll Be Spending the Night in San Jose

    Paper Plane and other great bars in San Jose.

    Your Highball Intake Is About to Increase Dramatically

    Whiskey and other highballs are happening. 

    Outsourcing Is In

    Blind Tiger Ice and Super Jugoso are going to have a major impact on prep work in SF bars. 

    The Mission Has Only Just Begun 

    So, so many new bars are opening in the Mission District. 

     

    I've already got my next assignment for San Francisco Magazine, so hopefully this will be a regular thing. 

     

     

     

  • Almost All the Cocktail and Spirits Books Published in 2017 for Reading or Gifting

    Behold! Here is my round-up of all the cocktails and spirits books (plus a few others) that were released in 2017. This year, beyond the annual deluge of whisky books, there are books aping the bartender lifestyle (Drink Like a Bartender, Straight Up), more narrative books (I Hear She's a Real Bitch, By the Smoke and the Smell), and recipe books seeking to simplify the process (3 Ingredient Cocktails, The Imbible, Road Soda) rather than reveal the secrets of complex drinks from top bars.

    All in all, another great year for reading about drinking. 

    The links below are to Amazon.com and if you order from there I get a little percentage from the affiliate program. However if you want to be even more awesome, you can buy my book on the Gin & Tonic too!  

     

    Best Cocktail Books 2017

     

     

    Cocktail/Bartender Lifestyle Books 

    6a00e553b3da20883401bb09d333e2970d.jpgThe Drinkable Globe: The Indispensable Guide to the Wide World of Booze by Jeff Cioletti 

    Distillery Cats: Profiles in Courage of the World's Most Spirited Mousers by Brad Thomas Parsons

    The Art of the Bar Cart: Styling & Recipes by Vanessa Dina, Ashley Rose Conway

    The Bar Cart Bible: Everything You Need to Stock Your Home Bar and Make Delicious Classic Cocktails

    Drink Like a Bartender  by Thea Engst and Lauren Vigdor 

    The Cocktail Competition Handbook by Andy Ives

    Straight Up: Where to drink & what to drink on every continent  by Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley

    Meehan's Bartender Manual by Jim Meehan 

     

    History Books

    6a00e553b3da20883401b8d2afccb8970c.jpgMuskets and Applejack: Spirits, Soldiers, and the Civil War by Mark Will-Weber 

    B.A.S.T.A.R.D.S.: Bars And Saloons, Taverns And Random Drink Stories (Volume 1)  by Brian F. Rea 

    Bay Area Cocktails: A History of Culture, Community and Craft  by Shanna Farrell

    Bumbershoots: Abridged by Dominic C Pennock

     

     

     

    Single Cocktail Books

    The Bloody Mary Book: Reinventing a Classic Cocktail by Ellen Brown 

    The Bloody Mary: The Lore and Legend of a Cocktail Classic, with Recipes for Brunch and Beyond  by Brian Bartels 

    Gin Tonica: 40 recipes for Spanish-style gin and tonic cocktails by David T Smith 

     

    Whiskey and Whisky Books

    6a00e553b3da20883401b7c925786b970b.jpgMoonshine Mixology: 60 Recipes for Flavoring Spirits & Making Cocktails by Cory Straub 

    The Way of Whisky: A Journey Around Japanese Whisky by Dave Broom 

    The Bourbon Bartender: 50 Cocktails to Celebrate the American Spirit by Jane Danger and Alla Lapushchik

    Canadian Whisky, Second Edition: The New Portable Expert by Davin de Kergommeaux 

     

    Rum Books

    The Curious Bartender's Rum Revolution by Tristan Stephenson 

    Rum Curious: The Indispensable Tasting Guide to the World's Spirit by Fred Minnick 

    Spirit of the Cane by Jared McDaniel Brown and Anistatia Renard Miller 

     

    Other Spirits

    6a00e553b3da20883401b8d2ba6be7970c.jpgMezcal: The History, Craft & Cocktails of the World's Ultimate Artisanal Spirit by Emma Janzen 

    AKVAVIT - Rediscovering a Nordic Spirit  by Sune Risum-Urth and Rasmus Poulsgaard  

    Dr. Adam Elmegirab’s Book of Bitters: The bitter and twisted history of one of the cocktail world’s most fascinating ingredients by Adam Elmegirab 

     

    Brand Books

    Hennessy: A Toast to the World's Preeminent Spirit by Glenn O'Brien 

     Fever Tree: The Art of Mixing: Recipes from the world's leading bars  by Fever Tree 

    Brewdog: Craft Beer for the People  by Richard Taylor with James Watt and Martin Dickie

     

    Recipe-Focussed Books

    6a00e553b3da20883401b7c92577e6970b.jpgThe Imbible: A Cocktail Guide for Beginning and Home Bartenders by Micah LeMon 

    Let's Get Monster Smashed: Horror Movie Drinks for a Killer Time by Jon Chaiet and Marc Chaiet 

    Code Name: Cocktail by Vicky Sweat & Karen McBurnie

    The Modern Cocktail: Innovation + Flavour by Matt Whiley

    Road Soda: Recipes and techniques for making great cocktails, anywhere by Kara Newman 

    The Poptail Manual: Over 90 Delicious Frozen Cocktails by Kathy Kordalis

    The Cocktail Guide to the Galaxy: A Universe of Unique Cocktails from the Celebrated Doctor Who Bar by Andy Heidel 

    Cooking with Cocktails: 100 Spirited Recipes by Kristy Gardner 

    The Classic & Craft Cocktail Recipe Book: The Definitive Guide to Mixing Perfect Cocktails from Aviation to Zombie  by Clair McLafferty 

    Boston Cocktails: Drunk & Told by Frederic Yarm

    Beach Cocktails: Favorite Surfside Sips and Bar Snacks

    A Spot at the Bar: Welcome to the Everleigh: The Art of Good Drinking in Three Hundred Recipes by Michael Madrusan and Zara Young

    The Wildcrafted Cocktail: Make Your Own Foraged Syrups, Bitters, Infusions, and Garnishes; Includes Recipes for 45 One-of-a-Kind Mixed Drinks by Ellen Zachos 

    The Cocktail Hour (L’Heure du Cocktail): 224 recipes  Collected by Marcel Requien Presented by Lucien Farnoux-Reynaud 

    3 Ingredient Cocktails: An Opinionated Guide to the Most Enduring Drinks in the Cocktail Canon by Robert Simonson

    Cocktail Chameleon by Mark Addison 

    Prosecco Cocktails: 40 tantalizing recipes for everyone's favourite sparkler by Laura Gladwin

    New York Cocktails by Amanda Schuster 

    Good Together: Drink & Feast with Mr Lyan & Friends by Ryan Chetiyawardana 

     

    Narrative Booze Books

    DownloadThe Angels' Share by James Markert 

    Breakfast Tea & Bourbon by Pete Bissonette

    Pure Heart: A Spirited Tale of Grace, Grit, and Whiskey by Troylyn Ball and Bret Witter

    I Hear She's a Real Bitch by Jen Agg 

    By the Smoke and the Smell: My Search for the Rare and Sublime on the Spirits Trail by Thad Vogler

     

     

    Wine Books

    Note: I don't really cover wine books and  these are just a few of them that came out this year. These are merely the ones that showed up in my mailbox. 

    The Complete Bordeaux  by Stephen Brook 

    Cork Dork: A Wine-Fueled Adventure Among the Obsessive Sommeliers, Big Bottle Hunters, and Rogue Scientists Who Taught Me to Live for Taste by Bianca Bosker

    The Dirty Guide to Wine: Following Flavor from Ground to Glass by Alice Feiring 

    6a00e553b3da20883401b8d2c11b96970c.jpgThe New Wine Rules: A Genuinely Helpful Guide to Everything You Need to Know by Jon Bonne

    Champagne: The Essential Guide to the Wines, Producers, and Terroirs of the Iconic Region  by Peter Liem 

    Larousse Wine

     

    Beer and Cider Books 

    Note: Same as wine, this isn't my primary focus but here are a few books. 

    Best Beers: the indispensable guide to the world’s beers by Tim Webb and Stephen Beaumont

    Modern Cider: Simple Recipes to Make Your Own Ciders, Perries, Cysers, Shrubs, Fruit Wines, Vinegars, and More by Emma Christensen

     

     

    Food, and Miscellaneous Related Books 

    6a00e553b3da20883401bb09a29c97970d.jpgGastrophysics: The New Science of Eating  by Charles Spence 

    Miracle Cure: The Creation of Antibiotics and the Birth of Modern Medicine by William Rosen

    Popular: The Power of Likability in a Status-Obsessed World  by Mitch Prinstein

    What She Ate: Six Remarkable Women and the Food That Tells Their Stories by Laura Shapiro 

    The Secret Lives of Color by Kassia St Clair 

     

     

     

    Not Enough Books For Ya?

    Here are all the books published in the last three years as well. 

    More Than 40 Drink Books Published in 2014 for Reading or Gifting

    All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting

    All the Cocktails and Spirits Books Published in 2016 for Reading or Gifting

     

  • What is a Blended Straight Bourbon Whiskey?

    Old Elk Blended Straight Bourbon WhiskeyI was about to casually add a product to the New Booze page when I realized I didn't know what it was: Old Elk Blended Straight Bourbon Whiskey. 

    I thought that "blended" and "straight" whiskey were at odds with each other, as blended whiskeys must contain at least 20% straight whiskeys in their blend.  

    The press release doesn't address what is a blended straight bourbon is in the description: 

    With four times more malted barley than conventional recipes and a slow cut proofing process which allows more time for flavors to marry between proofing stages, the Old Elk Bourbon recipe transcends tradition to craft a rich, smooth bourbon. 

    “We use traditional ingredients – malted barley, corn and rye – in an innovative, yet steadfast recipe to create a bourbon with smooth, rich flavors that act in harmony with caramel cues brought out by the charred barrels and spicy rye notes,” said Greg Metze, Master Distiller at Old Elk Distillery. “After testing a variety of proofing periods, we found that these flavors come together in a smoother bourbon when the proofing stages are longer. Instead of taking the usual 24 to 48 hours for proofing, we use a slow cut proofing process during which full-barrel proof bourbon is cut and left to rest – and we repeat this patient technique until the ideal character is achieved. It takes significantly longer than most common recipes, but taking the time to proof slowly makes all the difference.” 

     (SRP $49.99), now available in Colorado and California

    So I looked it up. 

    According to the US Government

    (5)(i) ‘‘A blend of straight whiskies’’
    (blended straight whiskies) is a mixture
    of straight whiskies which does
    not conform to the standard of identify
    for ‘‘straight whisky.’’ Products so designated
    may contain harmless coloring,
    flavoring, or blending materials as
    set forth in 27 CFR 5.23(a).
    (ii) ‘‘A blend of straight whiskies’’
    (blended straight whiskies) consisting
    entirely of one of the types of straight
    whisky, and not conforming to the
    standard for straight whisky, shall be
    further designated by that specific type
    of straight whisky; for example, ‘‘a
    blend of straight rye whiskies’’ (blended
    straight rye whiskies). ‘‘A blend of
    straight whiskies’’ consisting entirely
    of one of the types of straight whisky
    shall include straight whisky of the
    same type which was produced in the
    same State or by the same proprietor
    within the same State, provided that
    such whisky contains harmless coloring,
    flavoring, or blending materials as
    stated in 27 CFR 5.23(a).

    So a blended straight bourbon whiskey like this is a blend of straight bourbons that may contain coloring, flavoring, or blending materials. 

     

     Update: A PR representative for the brand clarified that although Old Elk could legally use additives in its formulation according to the whiskey category it is in, they do not. They wrote:

    Long story short:

    • Old Elk Bourbon conforms to Section 2 Grain Spirits (1)(i) Bourbon Whisky
    • Old Elk Bourbon also conforms to Section 2 Grain Spirits (1)(iii) as a “Straight Bourbon Whisky” except that it is a blend of straight bourbon whiskies from other states, not the same state.
    • Therefore, Old Elk Bourbon is relegated to Section 5 (ii) “A Blend of Straight Bourbon Whiskies” which allows the use of coloring, flavoring or blending materials but does not mandate it.

    Old Elk Bourbon does not use additives, but still falls under the “Straight Bourbon Whiskey” designation since the bourbon whiskies used in the blend were produced in three different states (Colorado, New York and Indiana). They do plan to change that, as they’re expanding their distillery in Colorado.

     

  • Sensors in the Whiskey Warehouse Sending Data in Real-Time

    In my latest story for SevenFifty Daily, I wrote about new temperature and humidity sensors installed in warehouses at Buffalo Trace, and what those could mean for studying aging of spirits and adjusting future blends.

    Check it out here.

    Bt

  • Science of Spirits Aging on the new SevenFifty Daily

    I'm contributing to a new website called SevenFifty Daily. It's an offshoot of SevenFifty, a site/tool to make ordering alcohol for bars from distributors easier. 

    Thus, the site's content is positioned mostly for the industry- bartenders, managers, distributors, and brands. My first assignment (out of four!) was to cover a seminar at Tales of the Cocktail called Better Drinking Through Chemistry

     

    Screen Shot 2017-07-24 at 9.00.14 AM

     

    The topic was the science of barrel aging spirits – what we know about, and how brands use that information to develop topics with specific flavor profiles. 

    The seminar was pretty geeky, but the hardest part was getting up the next morning at 7AM to write it up after a full day at Tales. (If you've been, I'm sure you can sympathize.)

    Anyway, please give the story a read and check out the other content on Daily SevenFifty as they've already got quite a bit of good stuff.

     

  • Phylloxera, Gin, and Scotch Whisky

    I'm continually researching topics related to bugs and booze, and went looking for some better information on how scotch whisky sales were affected by the phylloxera plague that took down most of Europe's vines in the late 1800s. 

    Many sources cite that scotch whisky sales really took off in the same time period as phylloxera killed the wine biz as people switched to spirits, and I was looking for more solid information on that: sales numbers, etc.

    I've found that it's true there was a huge scotch boom in this period (30+ new distilleries opened between 1880-1900), but I was seeking more information.

    Anyway, my office is located above the spectacular Mechanics Institute Library, a membership library dating back to 1854. I have plenty of whisky books in my office, but the library itself has some unique books I've not seen elsewhere. I went to see what I could learn. 

    I happened across a book called The Whiskies of Scotland by RJS Mc Dowall from 1967. It didn't have any information on phylloxera except for this one fun fact about the Gilbey's wine/gin company: they saw phylloxera happening so invested in scotch whisky. Smart. 

    Today Gilbey's is owned by Beam Suntory

     

    Unnamed

    Anyway, just thought I'd share. 

     

  • Water Chemistry at Deanston, Bunnahabhain, and Toberymory Distilleries

    Several years ago I visited the Deanston and Bunnahabhain scotch whisky distilleries. Click on those words to read about the visits. 

    At the time I was there I was really obsessed with the effects of water in distilled spirits (not that I'm over it), so I followed up with some super specific questions about the pH and TDS of the water sources. I never ended up putting up a blog post about it but now it's about time. 

    Bunnahabhain Distillery Islay Scotland from pier

    Note that the Highland and Islay distilleries have slightly basic water (above 7.0), while the Island of Mull distillery water is slightly acidic. It would be more typical for Islay water to be acidic, as it typically runs through decaying vegetation through peat bogs, but at Bunnahabhain they collect the water upstream, two miles from the distillery. (Read more here.)

     

    Deanston (Scottish Highlands slightly north of Glasgow)

    Water Source: River Teith

    Ph 7.1

    Total Hardness ( mg CaCO3/ L ) 19.5

    Colour (mg/L Pt/Co scale ) 20

    Calcium ( mg/L ) 6.18 

     

    Bunnahabhain (Islay)

    Water source: Margadale underground river 

    Ph 7.2

    Total Hardness 120.7

    Colour 50

    Calcium 29.5

     

    Tobermory  (Isle of Mull)

    Water Source: Gearr Abhainn

    Ph 6.2

    Total Hardness 21.4

    Colour 175

    Calcium 5.02.

     

    To see how these water sources compare against typical Highland/Islay water, see this post as well as the whole Water Project series here to see how different water sources change the flavor of whisky before and after distillation.

     

      Bunnahabhain Distillery Islay Scotland shipwreck