Category: whisky

  • Lunch in a Teepee, Dinner in a Castle: A Luxe Trip to The Glenlivet

    Pinch glenlivetTwo years ago I went on a quick press trip with The Glenlivet single malt scotch whisky for the release of the first Winchester Collection, a series of 50-year-old whiskies from the brand. It was a vintage 1964 release.

    While on the visit we were also able to taste the 1966 vintage that has recently come out and is the second bottling of the collection. 

    As this has just hit the market, I decided it was a good time to revisit my visit. Those notes are below. 

    The press release describes the new release: 

    The Vintage 1966 is the second release from Winchester Collection, The Glenlivet’s first ever series of rare and precious 50-year-old single malt Scotch Whiskies.

    Vintage 1966 Hi-res Bottle ImageThe Vintage 1966 is a precious whisky that uses sherry casks to enhance the trademark soft, sweet and sumptuous complexity that The Glenlivet is best known for. The result is a remarkable single malt that layers the soft, smooth notes of The Glenlivet with delicate taste of spice – a teasing intermingling of cinnamon and liquorice – and offers an exceptionally long, smooth finish with a pleasing hint of dryness.

    Only 100 bottles of remarkable Speyside single malt, priced at $25,000 each, have been carefully guarded and cared for by generations of The Glenlivet Master Distillers and are currently on sale around the world in limited distribution.

     

     

    An Afternoon Trip along the Smuggler's Trails

    The hills and fields around The Glenlivet distillery has a series of walking trails called The Smugglers Trails, in tribute to the tradition of pre-legal distilling in the area. We had a day of activities leading up to the distillery visit, and then a dinner evening at a local castle. As one does.

    In the afternoon we rode ATVs around the countryside, with a view of The Glenlivet distillery off in the valley. We had a picnic in a giant portable teepee (as one does), and enjoyed a display of falconry (as is typical). 

    Glenlivet Smugglers Trail Sign
    Glenlivet Smugglers Trail Sign
    Glenlivet Smugglers Trail Sign
    Glenlivet Smugglers Trail Sign
    Glenlivet Smugglers Trail Sign
    Glenlivet Smugglers Trail Sign
    Glenlivet Smugglers Trail Sign
    Glenlivet Smugglers Trail Sign

    The Glenlivet Distillery Visit (Nerd Stuff)

    Next we headed downhill toward the distillery located in the middle of the valley. Though Glenlivet is the first licensed distillery in the Highlands (in 1824), this is the second location of the distillery after the first one burned down. The second was erected in 1858. 

    Glenlivet in Valley

    We first stopped at Josie's Well, one of the many wells used as a water source for fermentation at the distillery. The waters from the various wells are blended before use. Alan Winchester (for whom the Winchester Collection is named) says that The Glenlivet is a hard water distillery. 

    Josies Well Glenlivet
    Josies Well Glenlivet

    On the way into the distillery, we pass a duck pond that is used to cool the condenser water coming off the still- and I'm sure the ducks enjoy a warm pond to swim in.

    Glenlivet Distillery form Back
    Glenlivet Distillery form Back

    Barley for the whisky is purchased from Scotland and abroad, and it is (as you'd guess from the soft and fruity flavor profile) unpeated. Winchester says the grind of the barley determines a lot of the final whisky flavor too – a point I'd not heard many distillers discuss (versus just maximum alcohol extraction). I'd like to investigate this more in the future. 

    Malt Mill Glenlivet Distillery
    Malt Mill Glenlivet Distillery

    For every ton of barley that comes into the distillery, one third ends up as whisky, another third as CO2 fizzed off by fermentation, and the final third is spent solids sold as cattle feed. 

    After the barley is ground, it goes to the mash tun where it is washed three times with hot water to pull out all the fermentable sugars. They don't stir it before pulling off the clearest liquid here, as this produces a less cereal-flavored (and presumably more fruity-flavored) whisky. 

    Next the clear liquid is transferred to the Oregon wood wash backs for fermentation. After 50 hours it reached about 8.5% ABV. 

    Mash Tun Glenlivet Distillery2
    Mash Tun Glenlivet Distillery2
    Mash Tun Glenlivet Distillery2

    There are 14 stills at The Glenlivet, not just the six pretty ones you see on the tour. A lot happens out of sight or off-site, given that the distillery is relatively small. This is the second best selling single malt scotch whisky brand so they produce a lot here. There are aging warehouses located around Scotland, and things like watering down to barrel proof also happen elsewhere.

    Demineralized water is used both for barrel proofing and for bottle proofing, as is typical. 

    Aging takes place in ex-bourbon, ex-sherry, "traditional" (reused) barrels, and new French oak barrels.

     

    People Around stills Glenlivet Distillery
    People Around stills Glenlivet Distillery

     

     

    Dinner in a Castle

    After sampling a couple of 50-year-old whiskies at the distillery, a castle was a natural choice for dinner. It helps that there are a lot of castles around.

    The Most Scottish Sign Ever

    But the castle that we ended up in is Fyvie Castle, which dates back to at least 1211. We had bagpipes, suits of armor, the whole shebang. 

    Fyvie Castle Dinner3
    Fyvie Castle Dinner3
    Fyvie Castle Dinner3
    Fyvie Castle Dinner3

     

    It was a nice way to end a quick-and-lovely trip to The Glenlivet. 

     

     

     

  • Distillery Visit: Stranahan’s Colorado Whiskey in Denver

    IMG_3520This December, I visited the Stranahan's single malt Colorado whiskey distillery in Denver, in order to partake in the fun and insanity of waiting in line overnight for the annual Snowflake whiskey release

    The previous night, however, we were given a tour by Stranahan's distiller Rob Dietrich.

    Background

    Stranahan's was launched by Jess Graber, who along with George Stranahan came up with the original recipe and product launch. This was back in 2004-2006, and in 2010 the brand was sold to Proximo (created by Jose Cuervo and owner of stylishly-branded brands including The Kraken rum and Boodles Gin).  

    In Denver, there is clearly no animosity towards Proximo's ownership, as the Snowflake whiskey release events show. Likewise, Jess Graber's newer whiskey brand TinCup is "finished" at Stranahan's (and I believe owned by Proximo), so that relationship remains in good standing as well.

    Production

    Stranahan's is an American single-malt, meaning it's distilled from 100% malted barley. The barley they use is mostly a "bulk" barley, plus three other "specialty" barleys making up their custom recipe. 

    The barley is milled on-site, then put into the mash tun to extract sugars for fermentation. Water is added. Next it goes into a "boil kettle" that kills bacteria/sterilizes it basically. This is not typical in bourbon or scotch production, but comes from the facility's historical use as a brewery. This is the stage at which hops would have been added.

    I'm guessing that between what they call the mash tun and the boil kettle, it's doing the same thing as the mash tun and wash back of scotch whisky (soaking the grains and washing out the fermentable sugars with hot water), minus the filtering of the liquids (which at Stranahan's comes in the next step). 

    Then it goes into a "whirlpool," another brewery tool, which spins it to separate the liquids from the solids and gets "clean distiller's wort" out of it. 

     

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    Fermentation is in closed-top, temperature-controlled stainless steel fermenters that are 5500 gallons in size. These also come from the former brewery. The yeast Dietrich says is an unusual strain, chosen not for producing high alcohol content necessarily, but for flavor production. Fermentation lasts six days. The ABV after fermentation? They won't say. 

     

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    Interestingly, the water they use for fermentation is charcoal-filtered city water, while the water they use to dilute post-distillation to barrel-proof and bottle-proof is Colorado Springs mineral water. Typically, it's the other way around – the "special" local water is used for fermentation, then the reverse osmosis filtered city water is used for the rest. Interesting.

    After fermentation, they suck out everything except the spent yeast and keep it in the "wash storage" until they're ready to distill it. 

    There are three large wash stills. One is the distillery's first still that they used to use for everything. They've since expanded to three wash stills for the first distillation, and two smaller spirit stills for the second distillation (as there is less volume of liquid to distill after the first distillation is done).

    As you can see, both sets of stills are pot-column hybrid stills. If I recall correctly, Dietrich said their hybrid still was the first of its type used to make whisky in the state. 

    After the first distillation the spirit is 40%, and the spirit comes off the second distillation at 150 proof (75% ABV). 

     

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    The spirit is then diluted with water from Colorado Springs and put into the barrels at 110 proof (55%).  Amazingly, this spring water for barrel and bottle proofing is El Dorado Springs water, purchased in 5-gallon bottles, same as you'd buy for the water cooler in your office. There was a huge rack of them in the distillery. So I guess if you wanted to make matching ice cubes or bourbon and branch water, you'd know exactly which water to use. 

    In Colorado's weather, the alcohol percentage rises in the barrel, so after 2-3 years it comes out of the barrel at 114-166 Proof.  The barrels are all new oak barrels, toasted first then charred with #3 alligator char by Independent Stave

    After aging, the spirit is put through a 5-micron filter just to keep out barrel char, then diluted with water from Colorado Springs for bottling. None of the whiskies are chill-filtered. 

     

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    IMG_3579

     

    Stranahan's Whiskeys

    The three Stranahan's releases are distilled the same way – same recipe and process. The difference between them is in age and finishing. 

    The Stranahan's Original single-malt is aged a minimum of two years in new American oak barrels. The majority of the liquid is two years old, with some 3-, 4-, and 5-year whiskey blended in. 

    The Stranahan's Diamond Peak is all aged four years in new American oak barrels. 

    The Snowflake whiskies are annual releases first aged in new American oak barrels, then finished in a variety of casks that held other wines/spirits and blended. Those are available for one day and then gone for the year. 

     


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  • I Waited in a Long Line for Whiskey, or, A Heroic Tale of Endurance

    6 AM, December 3, Denver: While using the port-a-potty, my glasses fogged over with the steam rising from my pee. I knew at that moment I had made the right decision. 

    A couple weeks earlier, I had been invited to the Stranahan's distillery for the release of their annual Snowflake bottling. The press trip would involve a helicopter ride into the snowy mountains and then waiting outside overnight along with hundreds of other people for the whiskey to be released at 8AM.

    Cold weather? Heights? Waiting overnight in a line for drinks?  These are all things I very much do not like, yet I very much *do* like to be made uncomfortable. Count me in. 

    IMG_3671

     

    Arriving in Denver, we were told the helicopter ride would not be happening due to poor weather. I was relieved and disappointed as you'd expect. The point of the helicopter ride was to visit Crestone Peak – the Rocky Mountain peak after which this year's Stranahan's Snowflake whiskey was named. (Each annual bottling is named for a different peak, and this year is the 100th anniversary of the first successful summit of Crestone.)

    Luckily the clever public relations team found a new way to arouse my discomfort, by taking myself and the other journalists on the trip to a western wear store to buy a cowboy hat, and then to perhaps America's least vegetarian-friendly restaurant. Well-played, team. 

    The store in question is Rockmount Ranch Wear, and there I picked up a snazzy new hat without too much fuss. The restaurant is The Buckhorn Exchange, Denver's oldest restaurant, taxidermy museum, and server of elk and yak meat. While I didn't eat much there, nor have more than one cocktail (their Old Fashioned has ginger ale in it), I did enjoy plenty of whiskey with Stranahan's distiller Rob Dietrich. I peppered him with nerdy distillery questions that I'll talk about in a future post. (post is here)

     

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    Howdy.

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    At 5AM the next morning, we headed out to the distillery and took our place in line. There were already hundreds of people there, in the very, very cold, near-pitch-dark line that wrapped all the way around the distillery then looped around the roads surrounding it.

    The point of the trip was to experience this phenomena- the cultish devotion to the brand by locals (and a few people who came from pretty far away). The first person in line was there on Thursday afternoon for the Saturday morning event – and it turns out it's his thing to always be the first in line. 

     

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    The previous nights the line already wrapped around the building- you can see a couple tents.

    IMG_3612

    Most "StranaFans" were in small groups of four or so people, huddled together in lawn chairs wearing heavy winter clothing. Many were in sleeping bags, some had space heaters, there were some tents, a lot of people had been drinking, and I would expect that more than a few had partaken in the state's legal marijuana.  At five in the morning, though, most of the line was more mellow and sleepy/asleep than wild.

    In our group, we had a small tent with a space heater in it, a little boom box, and people to grill up food for us.  It was as genteel as you could make it, but damn it was still cold! I had not expected to start drinking whiskey by 5:30AM, but umm, I needed it. By the time I'd get near the end of an ounce and a half or so of whiskey in my tin cup, both the liquid and the cup itself would be uncomfortably cold. (I was also hoping not to use the port-a-potty but after a lot of liquid I needed it, and had embraced my fate.)

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    Still life with whiskey, sneakers, and space heater.

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    Soon enough though, the sun began rising and people started stirring. After a few drinks, our little place in line got a tiny bit loud. Others got up and started stamping their feet to shake off the cold. Eventually towards 7AM or so (forgive me for inaccurate timing reports, I had consumed a fair amount of whiskey at this point), then line started moving.

    They handed out tickets for the number of bottles that people wanted to purchase (maximum of two), so that when it reached the point where no more bottles would be available, people would know they'd not bother getting in line.

    The fast-motion videos below should give you an idea of just how long the line was.

     

     

    They began letting people into the distillery, directing the line along probably the longest route through it so that people could warm up while waiting. They had entertainment inside including live bands, and everyone was in a jolly mood at that point. (Not that anyone was in a bad mood at any point… there was a lot of whiskey around.) 

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    The line wriggled all the away around the warehouse and back to the front counter, we were able to purchase our bottles of whiskey and have them signed by distiller Rob Dietrich. 

     

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    First guy in line I think, walking out with his bounty as we were getting to the front of the building.

     

    Then, very tipsily, the group of journalists piled into some Ubers with our newly-aquired, hard-earned whiskey, and headed out to a much-needed breakfast. With discomfort, comes success! 

     

     

     

    About Stranahan's Snowflake Batch 19: Crestone Peak

    IMG_3757Each year Stranahan's Colorado single-malt releases a special Snowflake batch (no two are the same- get it?), named for one of the peaks of the Rocky Mountains. 

    The whiskey begins as Stranahan's Original (mostly two-year-old single malt with some 3- 4-, and 5- year mixed in) that is finished in a variety of casks. The press release notes, "Rob has chosen to celebrate Crestone Peak – Colorado’s seventh highest summit – by marrying the whiskeys from seven different barrels to create this edition of Snowflake."

    The seven barrels in this year's single-malt blend are:

    • 1 Syrah Amador wine cask
    • 1 Madeira wine cask
    • 1 Old Vine Zinfandel wine cask
    • 1 Saint Croix Rum cask
    • 2 4-year old Stranahan’s whiskey casks
    • 1 5-year old Stranahan’s whiskey cask

    Of course, the annual Snowflake release is already sold out, so if you didn't get one, you didn't get one. 

     

     Read about how Stranahan's makes their whiskey with my distillery visit blog post here.

     

     

     

  • All the Cocktails and Spirits Books Published in 2016 for Reading or Gifting

    I love books! Here are all the books on cocktails and spirits I know of (please do comment if I've missed something) published this year. Give some gifts or just stock up on your winter reading for the cold months. I've got stacks to get through myself.

     

    Whiskey Books

    6a00e553b3da20883401b8d22461da970c.jpgBourbon: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of an American Whiskey by Fred Minnick 

    More Kentucky Bourbon Cocktails by Joy Perrine and Susan Reigler 

    The Big Man of Jim Beam: Booker Noe And the Number-One Bourbon In the World by Jim Kokoris  

    Whisky Japan: The Essential Guide to the World's Most Exotic Whisky by Dominic Roskrow 

    Iconic Whisky: Tasting Notes & Flavour Charts for 1,500 of the World's Best Whiskies by Cyrille Mald and Alexandre Vingtier

    Whiskey: A Spirited Story with 75 Classic and Original Cocktails by Michael Dietsch

    The Manhattan: The Story of the First Modern Cocktail with Recipes by Philip Greene 

     

     

    Miscellany 

    6a00e553b3da20883401bb09376999970d.jpgMade of Iceland: A Drink & Draw Book  by Reyka Vodka, Snorri Sturluson 

    Inside The Bottle: People, Brands, and Stories  by Arthur Shapiro 

    The Craft Cocktail Coloring Book by Prof Johnny Plastini 

    Drinking with Republicans and Drinking with Democrats by Mark Will-Weber 

    The Moonshine Wars by Daniel Micko

    Drinks: A User's Guide by Adam McDowell

    Shrubs: An Old-Fashioned Drink for Modern Times (Second Edition) by Michael Dietsch 

    A Proper Drink: The Untold Story of How a Band of Bartenders Saved the Civilized Drinking World by Robert Simonson 

     Colonial Spirits: A Toast to Our Drunken History by Steven Grasse  

    DIY Bitters: Reviving the Forgotten Flavor – A Guide to Making Your Own Bitters for Bartenders, Cocktail Enthusiasts, Herbalists, and More by Jovial King and Guido Mase  

    Amaro: The Spirited World of Bittersweet, Herbal Liqueurs, with Cocktails, Recipes, and Formulas by Brad Thomas Parsons 

    Drink Like A Grown-Up by The League of Extraordinary Drinkers 

    The Coming of Southern Prohibition: The Dispensary System and the Battle over Liquor in South Carolina, 1907-1915 by Michael Lewis

    American Wino: A Tale of Reds, Whites, and One Man's Blues by Dan Dunn 

    Distilled Stories: California Artisans Behind the Spirits by Capra Press

    Building Bacardi: Architecture, Art & Identity by Allan T. Shulman 

    Craft Spirits by Eric Grossman 

     

     

    Cocktail Books, General

    6a00e553b3da20883401bb08fac9f3970d.jpgCocktails for Ding Dongs by Dustin Drankiewicz (Author), Alexandra Ensign (Illustrator)

    Zen and Tonic: Savory and Fresh Cocktails for the Enlightened Drinker by Jules Aron 

    Pretty Fly For a Mai Tai: Cocktails with rock 'n' roll spirit   

    Cocktails for Drinkers: Not-Even-Remotely-Artisanal, Three-Ingredient-or-Less Cocktails that Get to the Point  by Jennifer McCartney 

    Aperitivo: The Cocktail Culture of Italy by Marisa Huff 

    The Complete Cocktail Manual: 285 Tips, Tricks, and Recipes by Lou Bustamante and the United States Bartenders' Guild 

     Shake. Stir. Sip.: More than 50 Effortless Cocktails Made in Equal Parts by Kara Newman

    101 Cocktails to Try Before you Die  by Francois Monti 

     Drink Like a Man: The Only Cocktail Guide Anyone Really Needs by Ross McCammon and David Wondrich

    The New Cocktail Hour: The Essential Guide to Hand-Crafted Cocktails by Andre Darlington and Tenaya Darlington 

    Spritz: Italy's Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes by Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau  

    Eat Your Drink: Culinary Cocktails by Matthew Biancaniello 

    Cannabis Cocktails, Mocktails & Tonics: The Art of Spirited Drinks and Buzz-Worthy Libations by Warren Bobrow

    Tiki with a Twist: 75 Cool, Fresh, and Wild Tropical Cocktails by Lynn Calvo and James O. Fraioli 

     

     

    Cocktail Books from Bars or Places

    6a00e553b3da20883401bb094fd3d5970d.jpgThe Canon Cocktail Book: Recipes from the Award-Winning Bar by Jamie Boudreau  and James O. Fraioli 

    Regarding Cocktails by Sasha Petraske and Georgette Moger-Petraske 

    Brooklyn Spirits: Craft Distilling and Cocktails from the World's Hippest Borough By Peter Thomas Fornatale and Chris Wertz

    Smuggler's Cove: Exotic Cocktails, Rum, and the Cult of Tiki by Martin Cate and Rebecca Cate

     Cuban Cocktails: Over 50 mojitos, daiquiris and other refreshers from Havana

    Brooklyn Bar Bites: Great Dishes and Cocktails from New York's Food Mecca by Barbara Scott-Goodman

    The Waldorf Astoria Bar Book by Frank Caiafa 

    Lift Your Spirits: A Celebratory History of Cocktail Culture in New Orleans by Elizabeth M. Williams and Chris McMillian

     

     

    Science!

    6a00e553b3da20883401b7c893f3cb970b.jpgShots of Knowledge: The Science of Whiskey by Rob Arnold and Eric Simanek

    Distilled Knowledge: The Science Behind Drinking’s Greatest Myths, Legends, and Unanswered Questions  by Brian D Hoefling  

     

     

     

    Classic Cocktail Book Reprints

    THE HOME BARTENDER'S GUIDE AND SONG BOOK {By Charlie Roe and Jim Schwenck}

    AMERICAN BAR {By Frank P. Newman}

    LOUIS' MIXED DRINKS {By Louis Muckenstrum} 

     

     

    Beer (A few beer books slip through the cracks and come to me)

    The United States of Beer: A Freewheeling History of the All-American Drink by Dane Huckelbridge 

    The Beer Geek Handbook: Living a Life Ruled by Beer by Patrick Dawson  

     

     MY BOOK! 

     Please consider supporting Alcademics by  purchasing a copy of my book Tonic Water AKA G&T WTF. It's a gift to yourself, and a gift to me.

    Tonic water aka gandt wtf by camper english cover

     

     

    Want to see some of the previous years' books? Well, here they are:

    More Than 40 Drink Books Published in 2014 for Reading or Gifting

    All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting

  • Sulfur Control in Sherry Casks Headed to Midleton Distillery

    Lustau bodega barrelsWhile in Jerez for the launch of the Redbreast Lustau Edition, I had the opportunity to speak with Midleton Distillery Head blender Billy Leighton. Since I had a couple extra minutes, I asked him about the effect of sulfur in barrels used for their whiskies.

    As some background, the whisky writer Jim Murray, who seems to enjoy generating controversy to increase book sales, said that sulfured casks are ruining scotch whisky. I don’t know much about the topic, so I asked Leighton if it was an issue.

    He said, “The use of sulfur to sterilize casks for shipping or storage is a common practice, but it has to be done carefully. In the year 2000 we stopped the cooperage from using sulfur candles when they’re shipping casks to us. There is always a little bit of a risk of infection or secondary fermentation when you do that. Also, we have only shipped barrels typically between Oct and Feb [the lower temperature months in order to avoid that fermentation/spoilage], though it’s expanding because of [increased sales] volume."

    Cask with flor[Irish Distillers has a relationship with the cooperage Antonio Paez to build and prepare their sherry barrels, so they don't buy their casks on the open market. If they did they'd not be able to control/track this.]

    He continued, "Historically you would have found a presence of sulfur from time to time. Now we have stopped that for 16 years. We don’t have the same problem certainly in our first fill casks. We could still see some sulfur raising its ugly head again in refill casks [casks purchased before 2000 that aged whisky and then were reused]. And one cask affected with it can ruin a vat. So even now every single sherry casks is personally screened by me."

    That’s new info to me, and I thought I’d share.

     

     

  • Why Sherry Cask Whiskies are Aged in Spanish Oak But Sherry is Aged in American Oak Casks

    Redbreast casks at Lustau bodega3This is a simple point but one I didn’t know before. Often you’ll see that scotch and other whiskies are aged in Spanish oak barrels that previously held sherry. However, I’ve always been told the barrels in the sherry soleras are American oak. What gives?

    Thanks to Billy Leighton, Head Blender at Midleton Distillery, I have an answer. He says that yes, the true barrels on the sherry soleras are American oak and as old as possible. They do not want wood influence in sherry so the barrels don’t lend any flavor.

    Traditionally, sherry was shipped to the UK in barrels (rather than bottles), and for that they would use the much less expensive/lower quality (at least at the time; I can’t speak for that now) Spanish oak casks, rather than American oak ones.

    After being emptied, those casks would have been the ones reused to age scotch and other whiskies.

    The Redbreast Lustau Edition is aged in ex-bourbon American oak barrels and sherry conditioned Spanish oak casks.

    REDBREAST LUSTAU 700ml Bottle

  • LASER STAVES! How whisky makers are using barrels toasted with an infrared ‘sun on a stick’

    StavesIn a post for PopularScience.com I wrote about a technology being employed to toast wine and now whiskey barrels with infrared light. 

    Buffalo Trace released their latest Experimental Collection bourbon with 6.5 year old whisky aged in barrels treated with infrared light. 

    The technology replaces the toasting phase of barrel-making, not the charring stage, and can be used to toast wood without getting it all smoky. 

    The process imparts different flavors to the bourbon, as they found out. 

    Check out the story on PopSci.com!

     

  • (Almost) All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting

    Throughout the year I post new drink books to Alcademics, because I love drinking and books. Below is all of them put together so that you can make your holiday wish list for yourself or see them all together to pick presents for friends and family.

    Know of a book I missed? Let me know and I'll add it.

     

    Culture and Fun

    Party-like-a-president-2d-high-resjpg-f9aeaf69d8544ad7You Suck At Drinking: Being a Complete Guide to Drinking for Any and All Situations in Your Life, Including But Not Limited to Office Holiday Parties, Weddings, Breakups and Other Sad Times, Outdoor Chores Like Deck-building, and While in Public, Legally and Illegally  By Matthew Latkiewicz

    Toasts: The Perfect Words to Celebrate Every Occasion By June Cotner and Nancy Tupper Ling

    Party Like A President: True Tales of Inebriation, Lechery, and Mischief from the Oval Office By Brian Abrams

    The Field Guide to Drinking in America By Niki Ganong 

    You Deserve a Drink: Boozy Misadventures and Tales of Debauchery by Mamrie Hart

    A Visual Guide to Drink by Pop Chart Lab: Ben Gibson, Patrick Mulligan

     

    Vintage Reprints

    ImgresHoffman House Bartender's Guide By Charley Mahoney

    The Ideal Bartender By Tom Bullock

    W. C. Whitfield's Mixed Drinks and Cocktails: An Illustrated, Old-School Bartender's Guide by W. C. Whitfield (Author), Tad Shell (Illustrator), Joaquín Simó (Foreword)

    Shaking Up Prohibition in New Orleans: Authentic Vintage Cocktails from A to Z
    By Olive Leonhardt and Hilda Phelps Hammond

     

    Historical Books

    Cocktail Noir: From Gangsters and Gin Joints to Gumshoes and Gimlets by Scott Deitche

    UrlLost Recipes of Prohibition: Notes from a Bootlegger’s Manual by Matthew Rowley

    To Have and Have Another Revised Edition: A Hemingway Cocktail Companion by Philip Greene

    Gone with the Gin: Cocktails with a Hollywood Twist by Tim Federle

    Cocktails of the Movies: An Illustrated Guide to Cinematic Mixology by Will Francis , Stacey Marsh

    Imbibe! From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to “Professor” Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar (Updated and Revised Edition)
    By David Wondrich

    Contraband Cocktails: How America Drank When It Wasn't Supposed To by Paul Dickson 

     

    UrlNarrative Cocktail Books

    The Cocktail Chronicles: Navigating the Cocktail Renaissance with Jigger, Shaker & Glass by Paul Clarke  

    Drinking the Devil's Acre: A Love Letter from San Francisco and her Cocktails by Duggan McDonnell

    Ten Cocktails: The Art of Convivial Drinking by Alice Lascelles 

     

    Cocktails from Specific Bars

    6a00e553b3da20883401b8d17a925a970cThe Dead Rabbit Drinks Manual: Secret Recipes and Barroom Tales from Two Belfast Boys Who Conquered the Cocktail World by Sean Muldoon, Jack McGarry, Ben Schaffer

    Experimental Cocktail Club: Paris, London & New York by Romée de Goriainoff, Pierre-Charles Cros, Olivier Bon, Xavier Padavoni 

    Cuban Cocktails: 100 Classic and Modern Drinks by Ravi DeRossi, Jane Danger, Alla Lapushchik 

    Tujague's Cookbook: Creole Recipes and Lore in the New Orleans Grand Tradition by Poppy Tooker 

    Cocktails for Dingdongs Vol. 1. by Dustin Drankiewicz and Alexandra Ensign

     

    Themed Cocktail Books

    51bB5UXlUyL._SX258_BO1,204,203,200_Summer Cocktails: Margaritas, Mint Juleps, Punches, Party Snacks, and More! By MarТa del Mar Sacasa and Tara Striano

    The Negroni: Drinking to La Dolce Vita, with Recipes & Lore  By Gary Regan

    Cocktails on Tap: The Art of Mixing Spirits and Beer By Jacob Grier

    The Tippling Bros. A Lime and a Shaker: Discovering Mexican-Inspired Cocktails by by Tad Carducci & Paul Tanguay with Alia Akkam

    Classic Cocktails by Salvatore Calabrese

    Tea Cocktails: A Mixologist's Guide to Legendary Tea-Infused Cocktails by Abigail R. Gehring

    The Mason Jar Cocktail Companion by Shane Carley

    Tiki Drinks: Tropical Cocktails for the Modern Bar  by Robert Sharp and Nicole Weston 

    The Manhattan Cocktail: A Modern Guide to the Whiskey Classic by Albert W. A. Schmid

    Paris Cocktails: An Elegant Collection of Over 100 Recipes Inspired by the City of Light  by Doni Belau 

    Wild Drinks & Cocktails: Handcrafted Squashes, Shrubs, Switchels, Tonics, and Infusions to Mix at Home by Emily Han

    The Periodic Table of COCKTAILS by Emma Stokes 

    Forager's Cocktails: Botanical Mixology with Fresh, Natural Ingredients by Amy Zavatto

    Bitters and Shrub Syrup Cocktails: Restorative Vintage Cocktails, Mocktails, and Elixirs by Warren Bobrow

    The Essential New York Times Book of Cocktails  by Steve Reddicliffe 

    Good Things to Drink with Mr Lyan and Friends by Ryan Chetiyawardana

    The Craft Cocktail Party: Delicious Drinks for Every Occasion by Julie Reiner

     

    Whisky and Whiskey

    51YffZpl9ML._SX258_BO1,204,203,200_Whiskey: What to Drink Next: Craft Whiskeys, Classic Flavors, New Distilleries, Future Trends By Dominic Roskrow 

    Bourbon Curious: A Simple Tasting Guide for the Savvy Drinker by Fred Minnick

    Bourbon Empire: The Past and Future of America’s Whiskey by Reid Mitenbuler 

    Spirit of Place: Scotland's Great Whisky Distilleries by Charles MacLean 

    The Essential Scratch & Sniff Guide to Becoming a Whiskey Know-It-All: Know Your Booze Before You Choose  by Richard Betts

    The Birth of Bourbon: A Photographic Tour of Early Distilleries by Carol Peachee

    American Whiskey, Bourbon & Rye (New Edition): A Guide to the Nation's Favorite Spirit by Clay Risen

     

    Other Spirits

    51VHrm7ytCL._SX359_BO1,204,203,200_Bitterman's Field Guide to Bitters & Amari: 500 Bitters; 50 Amari; 123 Recipes for Cocktails, Food & Homemade Bitters  by Mark Bitterman

     

    How the Gringos Stole Tequila: The Modern Age of Mexico's Most Traditional Spirit By Chantal Martineau

    Divided Spirits: Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production  by Sarah Bowen

    Gin: The Manual by Dave Broom 

    Vermouth: The Revival of the Spirit That Created America’s Cocktail Culture by Adam Ford

    Branca: A Spirited Italian Icon by Niccolo Branca di Romanico

     

    Science-Minded

    Cognitive Cooking with Chef Watson: Recipes for Innovation from IBM & the Institute of Culinary Education

    Hidden Scents: The Language of Smell in the Age of Approximation by Allen Barkkume 

     

    Miscellany

    51u5h1zPGDL._SX258_BO1,204,203,200_Fika: The Art of the Swedish Coffee Break with Recipes for Pastries, Breads, and other Treats By Anna Brones and Johanna Kindvall

    The River Cottage Booze Handbook by John Wright

    The Beer Bible by Jeff Alworth

    Cider Made Simple: All About Your New Favorite Drink  by Jeff Alworth

    Discovering the New York Craft Spirits Boom by Heather D. Dolland

    Branding: Distilled by Cynthia Sterling

     

     

  • The Science of Barrel Aging on PopSci.com

    I wrote a story for Popular Science on the science of barrel aging. The story was inspired by a trip to The Glenlivet where I tasted a 50-year-old whisky without any smoky qualities – but 50 years ago this and most whisky would have been at least lightly peated.

    So I went into the article specifically looking for what happens with the smoke, but ended up writing about wood interactions as well.

    To do the story, I read several wood science articles sent to me by Diageo whisky ambassador/smart-guy Ewan Morgan, spoke with Dr Bill Lumsden from Glenmorangie, interviewed Bryan Davis from Lost Spirits, and illustrated the story with a chart from Lew Bryson's excellent book Tasting Whisky

    Hopefully I didn't get anything wrong. Read it here.

     

    Screen Shot 2015-11-28 at 1.02.54 PM
     

  • How to Make Whisky in a Hot Climate in a Short Amount of Time

      KavalanIf it were easy to make good whisky anywhere, it would be made everywhere. And if it were easy to make good single-malt whisky in four years, everyone would do it. But Kavalan makes some very well-respected juice in four years in the mostly-hot country of Taiwan. 

    On my trip to the Kavalan whisky distillery that you can read out here and here, I spent a lot of time asking questions about what the differences in production are between Kavalan and scotch whisky, and other places where they had to compensate for their unique aging environment. Here are a few observations:

    Preparation

    They know that that they'll only be aging their whisky for 4-7 years, most of it closer to 4. They also know that their climate is hot and humid, though there can be a temperature range during the year that will suck the whisky into and out of the barrels causing interaction. They also know there will be a significant evaporation rate (angels' share) so that's another reason not to leave it aging too long. 

    In short, they don't have much time to get it right. There is no "fix it in the barrel" mentality, as too long in the barrel will taste just as bad as too little time in the barrel. They've basically got one shot to get it right so they go into it with cautious perfectionism.

      Kavalan Whisky Taiwan barrels 4

    Ingredients

    • American oak barrels give less tannin absorption than do French oak. So their ex-sherry, port, etc. barrels must be made from American oak.
    • Like other top whisky producers, they fly over to Spain and Portugal to personally source the best barrels. 
    • Yeast – They use an alcohol-producing yeast and a flavor-producing yeast. I am not sure if this has to do with climate at all, or is just a unique method. See fermentation below.

    Kavalan Whisky Taiwan maturation quality slide

    Process

    • Fermentation is temperature-controlled to ensure consistency in batches. It is a long fermentation using 2 different yeasts and an additionally long period for lactic fermentation. This contributes to the signature fruity flavor profile Kavalan is after. I am guessing that given the short amount of aging time, they want the fruit notes to be most forward and the grain notes (signaling too-young whisky) less prominent. 
    • Heads and tails cuts are different: A tight heart cut (so less heads and tails overall), but a little bit more of the heads and way less of the tails. Most whiskies that will sit in barrels a long time include a fair portion of the tails, as they break down/interact with the wood/oxygen over time and turn into good stuff. At Kavalan they don't have that much time.  
    • Larger barrels (ex-port and sherry) are stored mostly on the hotter top floor of the aging warehouse. Larger barrels take longer to age the whisky inside them, as there is less wood-to-liquid ratio of smaller bourbon barrels. 
    • Cautious Rechar. They do rechar barrels but the whisky aged in them is used for the base-level single-malt and the 46% version of that, not for any of the (so much better) Solist bottlings. Which helps explain why I like the single-cask bourbon barrel bottling so much better than those other two.
    • The sherry barrels come off a real solera after 20 years or so, then they are seasoned with 20 years old oloroso before Kavalan gets them. 

     

    Kavan Whisky Taiwain stills 10

    Budget

    • Kavalan is a small part of a huge company, so they have budget advantages that they have certainly used. 
    • I have sipped so many failed experiments over the years, many from otherwise quality distillers. I hate it when otherwise-quality producers put their failed experiments into bottles and try to pass them off to consumers. At Kavalan they purchased I believe 8 hybrid pot-column stills when they first built the distillery, which that they stopped using after they found that they didn't produce good whisky. (Don't worry, I think they have found another use for them that we'll hear about later.) That was an expensive decision; clearly one of many. 
    • They hired whisky doctor Jim Swan, who is certainly not cheap, to get things running and continually checking in. He was there during my visit distilling a peated malt. 
    • They throw away (or rather, recycle into the next batch) a lot of heads and tails. 
    • The shave-toast-rechar process used on the Vinho Barrique barrels is also quite precious and must be super expensive, as they have to rebuild all those barrels in the process. I don't know too much about this process but have heard it is done in the wine industry (probably minus the recharring). 

     

    Kavalan Whisky Taiwan char barrel 6

    Consistency/Computer Control

    • Computers control washing, fermentation, and distillation. 
    • They test everything along the way. 

     

    So, I'm sure that's not quite everything they do at Kavalan to make good whisky quickly in a hot climate, but it's a lot of it. So you might not want to run right out and set up your distillery in Sumatra just yet. 

    Kavan Whisky Taiwain barrel