Tag: sherry

Sherry is to Tequila as Vermouth is to Whiskey

Sherry and tequila are showing up together on more and more cocktail menus. I wrote a story about that in the Sunday, February 20th San Francisco Chronicle.

(Del Rio cocktail by Josh Harris of the Bon Vivants. Photo: Craig Lee)

More drinks including Tequila and Sherry
Camper English, Special to The Chronicle

Sherry and Tequila are having a love affair. Bartenders are using more of each ingredient lately, but increasingly you'll see the two sneaking off in a drink together, canoodling in a corner of the cocktail menu.

One of the first outward signs of this attraction came in the form of La Perla, a drink created several years ago by beverage consultant Jacques Bezuidenhout, which is still on the menu at Bourbon & Branch. The cocktail contains reposado (lightly aged) Tequila, manzanilla Sherry and pear liqueur.

A not-too dissimilar flavor combination has popped up recently. At the Hideout at Dalva, a tiny backroom cocktail bar in the Mission District, Josh Harris serves the Del Rio. The drink is made with blanco, or unaged, Tequila, fino Sherry, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, plus a dash of orange bitters and a grapefruit zest.

At Gitane, the Sherry-centric Claude Lane restaurant, bar manager Alex Smith and two other bartenders collaborated on a drink called the Flor Delice, made with reposado, manzanilla, St. Germain and orange bitters, plus maraschino liqueur.

In New York, this combination shows up yet again on the menu at Mayahuel, a bar dedicated to Tequila and mezcal. The Suro-Mago uses blanco, manzanilla, elderflower and orange bitters, and adds a rinse of mezcal to give it a smoky touch.

Read the rest of the story and get the recipe for the Del Rio, a simple and delicious drink.

February 19, 2011
Sherry, Reconsidered in the Los Angeles Times Magazine

**Update: This story is no longer on the LA Times Magazine website, so I have pasted it here.

In yesterday's LA Times Magazine I have a huge feature on sherry.

(photographs by Nigel Cox)

As a wine category, sherry has practically everything going for it: a tremendous range of flavors, a rich history dating at least as far back as the Romans, the ability to pair magnificently well with food and an increasingly hip status as a cocktail ingredient used by top bartenders.

Most people, when they think of sherry at all, consider it an ingredient their grandmothers cooked with rather than something ripe for sipping on its own. Sherry is about due for a comeback, but it’s so unfamiliar to us now that it really needs a thorough reintroduction.

The story features eight drink recipes from the lofty likes of Murray Stenson, Andrew Bohrer, Alex Day, Zahra Bates, Kenta Goto and Audrey Saunders, Brian Miller, Neyah White, and Kevin Deidrich.

Go read the story, and then go make the drinks!

(photographs by Nigel Cox)

February 7, 2011
Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana
In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, which is located in Sanlucar de Barrameda.

(La Gitana is their most famous brand. It's a manzanilla; similar to fino but aged in Sanlucar.)

(The bodegas were wonderfully old, moldy, and dusty.)

(One of the old bullfight posters taped to the wall in the bodega.)

(Our host, a curmudgeonly sort who basically disagreed with everything we learned all week. We liked him anyway.)

(A view of the bodega.)
- More humidity and less exreme temperature swings in Sanlucar
- Flor is thicker and remains year round
- Make a single-vineyard manzanilla. It may be the only single vineyard sherry
- The vineyards and grapes not nearly as important as the place where the solera is
- Sanlucar is the oldest part of the sherry region- producing wines there the longest
- Most of the casks in these bodegas over 200 years old. They hate new casks.
- Replace staves with staves from old casks bought on market
- La Gitana has 14 level solera.
- Manzanilla typically has more ciraderas (levels to the solera) than fino. Have to move it faster between levels.
- Tastes like salt spilled in the relish. Yum.
- Manzanilla can pair with asparagus- is most versatile with food
- Says you can leave an open bottle in the refrigerator 4-5 years and it will still be good
- During the peninsular war, they supplied both Napoleon and the Allies. Now have both Napoleon and Wellington brands.
January 25, 2011
Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Lustau
In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Lustao.

(Barrels in the Lustau bodega.)

(The vinegar aging room smelled heavenly. I'd love to go back and just study vinegar.)

(These new casks are being prepared for Jameson Irish whisky that is aged in ex-sherry casks. These casks were not part of the solera system- just the wine in them. They hold sherry that absorbs into the wood. The sherry is then distilled and not used for sherry.)

(At lunch afterward, we drank Lustao sherry and had Lustao Vinagre de Jerez on a few dishes.)
- Albero soil used in bodegas is same as used in bullfighting rings
- It took two and a half years to move the bodega from one place to another
- Only company to have sherry aged in Jerez, Puerto, and Sanlucar
- The vinegar solera smells delicious!
- Brandy bodega smells like buttered popcorn
- Casks for Jamesons made here with their oloroso
- Fino bodegas must have higher ceilings, cooler temps, more humid
- Different vineyards produce grapes better for fino, amontillado, oloroso sherries
January 18, 2011
Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Gonzalez Byass
In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Gonzalez Byass.

(The grounds of the bodega have grape vines covering the streets to provide shade.)

(A train takes people on a tour around the bodega.)

(One of the rooms for special events.)

(A barrel signed by Picasso.)

(Some Tio Pepe out of the cask. You can see the flor broken up in the glass.)
- Make Tio Pepe
- Over 200,000 visitors per year to bodega
- Tio Pepe grapes are and will always be collected by hand, not machine
- Higher vineyards considered better – get more of the wet wind
- Theyre one of the only companies to grow PX in Jerez. Others buy it from Cordoba
- Have a big catalogue of vintage-dated sherries- Anadas
- Corks are loose on sherry barrels to let air in, but most air freshness comes from when you change the levels of the sherry in the solera
- The El Duque brand starts as Tio Pepe fino, aged longer
- The higher the percentage of alcohol, the more lignin it absorbs from the wood.
- Nuttiness comes from the grapes. Coconut comes from the wood.
- Palo Cortado- probably started back in the day when they couldn’t accurately meauser alcohol percentage, so they put too much in the fino and killed it
January 12, 2011
Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Williams & Humbert
In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Williams & Humbert.

(The bodega is absolutely enormous.)

(There's a horse show inside the bodega for visitors.)

(For barrel tasting, the venenciador (in this case, the chief oenologist) inserts the venencia into the barrel to pull out a cup of liquid, then pours above a glass to aerate.)

(From a high perch in the bodega, you can see nearly the whole thing. Center in the picture is a tour group.)
- They make Dry Sack – actually a medium sweetness sherry
- Huge tourist visitor center- enter through the bodega and go to the horse show
- Brandy de Jerez is very popular in the Philippines
- Bowmore 1964 was aged in their casks
- Macallan new casks prepared here
- New wood with aged sherry added to them
- The sherry is not sold afterward- too woody
- Fino was first developed in an industrial way in the 1920’s and 30’s
- Dry sack is the top selling medium sweet sherry in the world.
- Tio Pepe is top selling fino. (Not made here.)
- Harvey’s Bristol Cream is the top cream. (Not made here.)
- Dry sack is blended with PX right at the beginning before it enters the solera system
- 15 year oloroso is very yummy.
- I also liked Gran Dulque de Alba XO
- They make the Dos Maderas rums
- Liked the VORS amontillado, VOS Palo Cortado
January 4, 2011
Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Sanchez Romate
In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Sanchez Romate.

(Our guide used a barrel as a chalkboard.)

(Our host.)

(The bodega is relatively small and sort of goth.)

(We signed a barrel.)
- Not a touristy bodega- don’t do tours
- Fino has more oxidation than manzanilla because the flor dies in winter and summer in Jerez.
- Delicious amontillado 5 years under flor
- Muscatel was like blueberry pie filling with curry
- Brandy Cardenal Mendoza top selling brandy de Jerez in US
December 28, 2010
Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Osborne
In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Osborne.

(The logo for Osborne is the silhouette of a bull. You see it all around.)

(This is barrel with a clear end so you can see how flor (a layer of yeast) lives on top of the sherry. The yeast consumes nutrients in the alcohol, and also protects it from oxidation in fino and manzanilla sherries.)

(Aging sherry.)

(After the Osborne bodega visit, some local food to soak up the sherry.)
- Huge company with biggest selling products port, water, ham, etc.
- Their fino has a five level solera, fairly unique
- Have a “Fino-Amontillado” with a lot of time under flor. It’s their signature product.
- Want more humidity in bodegas where fino is aged
December 20, 2010
How Long Does Sherry Last?

Sherry is a wine, albeit a fortified one, that does spoil after a certain time being open. It also typically doesn't improve once it is put into the bottle so here's how long to keep it around.

According to the Consejo Regulador of Sherry, the wine should be stored for the following times:

Fino or Manzanilla: in a sealed bottle it will last for 12 to 18 months. If the bottle is opened and stored in the refrigerator, it will last one week.

Amontillado and Medium Sweet Sherries in a sealed bottle will last for 18 to 36 months. If the bottle is open they will last 2 -3 weeks.

Oloroso and Cream Sherries in a sealed bottle will last for 24 to 36 months. If the bottle is open they will last 4 -6 weeks.

Pedro Ximenez in a sealed bottle will last for 24 to 48 months. If the bottle is open it will last 1 -2 months.

September 27, 2010
Sherry is Not Just for Sipping

In the new issue of Fine Cooking Magazine, Tara Q. Thomas has a story on sherry with food pairings (preview mode so far- full story should appear at the link later). To pair with the feature on the FineCooking.com drink blog, I list a simple recipe for the Sherry Cobbler.

Should you want more complicated recipes, I recommend stopping off at the Secret Sherry Society website for drinks from the likes of Charles Joly, Erick Castro, Danny Valdez, Thomas Waugh, and Phil Ward.

September 25, 2010