Alcademics

Author: Camper English

  • All About Pechuga Mezcal: Meat Infused Agave Spirits

    6a00e553b3da20883401a5116faa74970c.jpgA few years ago (Feb 2014) I wrote a story about pechuga mezcal, one of the most in-depth ones I'd seen at the time. The story was for Details.com, and the website (and magazine) no longer exist. Thinking it's a shame that the story disappeared (the URL now redirects to the front page of GQ's website) I am pasting it here.

    Would You Like the Chicken, the Turkey, or the Rabbit? Inside the Weird World of Meat-Distilled Mezcals

    In anticipation of a new ham-flavored mezcal, our cocktail maven traces the roots of pechuga, the oddest bird in the agave-based spirit family.

    By Camper English

    This March, chef José Andrés' restaurant Oyamel in Washington D.C. will be the first place to debut Del Maguey's new Ibérico, a mezcal made with ham that costs $200 per bottle. The pig parts are a new thing dreamed up by the Spanish chef, but there is a history of putting animals into mezcal in Mexico that dates back a few hundred years before bartenders dabbled with bacon infusions.

    Most mezcals with meat available in the U.S. are known as "pechuga" mezcals; the word is Spanish for "breast." (Let's get this out of the way: We're not talking about mezcals with "worms" in the bottle, which are added afterward and are not actually worms, but usually arean indicator of a crappy product.) The first pechuga on the U.S. market came from Del Maguey; it is the same as the vegetarian Del Maguey Minero but infused with fruit, rice, and other ingredients and redistilled with a chicken breast hanging from strings inside the still. The technique isn't unique in the spirits world; many gins are made in a similar method called vapor infusion. Just not with livestock.

    Odder still, there is actually a market for this stuff. Several other brands—like Pierde Almas,Fidencio, Real Minero, Tosba, La Niña del Mezcal, Benesin, and El Jolgorio sell pechuga mezcals, though most use turkey (guajolote) rather than chicken. Pierde Almas also sells a conejo mezcal, which swaps in a rabbit, and I've heard a few mentions of a venison mezcal in Mexico, though it's not available in the U.S..

     

    From left: Chicken breast suspended during distillation; Del Maguey's pechuga bottle.

    HISTORICAL ROOTS

    If you ask the folks behind the mezcal companies, they'll tell you the pechuga tradition dates back centuries. The producers of Del Maguey's pechuga trace it back at least 75 years, and the creators of El Jolgorio say it's been around for 100 years through five generations of distillers. (This information comes through mezcal importers, rather than the small distillers living in remote villages in Oaxaca who may not even have phones to give interviews, let alone Internet.)

    According to the son-in-law of the distiller at Mezcal Vago (which has a corn-infused mezcal called Elote), the neighbors would request a special-occasion treat for events like weddings and baptisms. So the distiller got the idea to take the mezcal he'd already made, infuse it with dried corn from the family farm, and distill it another time. It proved so popular that they began bottling it commercially along with the base mezcal.

    WHAT'S REALLY INSIDE

    Del Maguey's version includes, in addition to the hanging chicken breast, an infusion of wild mountain apples and plums, plantains, pineapples, almonds, and uncooked white rice. According to importer Ron Cooper, the chicken balances the fruit. Fidencio's pechuga uses plantains, apples, pineapple, guava, and sometimes quince and pear, says Canadian importer Eric Lorenz. He also notes that Pierde Almas' version uses some combination of those ingredients, plus cloves, star anise, and a bag of rice, and then either turkey breast or rabbit.

    The fruits and spices, in all likelihood, once helped mask the taste of some lackluster mezcal in the early days of distillation in Mexico. Today, however, most if not all of the pechuga-style mezcals are made from the same mezcal that the importers sell unflavored—so you could try the before- and after iterations in a taste test if you like.

    Some of these ingredients are seasonally driven. El Jolgorio pechuga is made around the Feast of the Virgen de los Remedios (near September 1), while most others are made later in the year (November). The makers of Fidencio say their product is made specifically during the quince harvest.

    "Basically, when they had something to celebrate like harvest abundance," Lorenz says, "they pulled out all the stops to do so, including making their usual beverage better for this and other special occasions."

    BUT DOES IT TASTE LIKE CHICKEN?

    Cooper, the founder-importer of Del Maguey and basically the guy who kicked off the whole mezcal renaissance, says the taste of chicken mezcal is quasi-feminine when compared to the more masculine ham version. Other tasters rely on textural descriptions, invoking the words umami and unctuous for these mezcals.

    "Among the 15 or so pechugas I've tasted, truly the most prominent flavor in all of these is undoubtedly the fruit components," Lorenz admits. When I'm feeling extremely on my game (and when I'm no longer sober), I can indeed detect mild chicken- or turkey-broth hints . . . and I'm pretty sure those are the typical conditions under which everyone else believes they can detect the taste of the meat as well."

    Perhaps it's easiest to think about these meaty mezcals like the strawberry-rhubarb pie your grandmother bakes from ingredients in her garden that she brings to the family-reunion picnic—a long-standing homemade delicacy for special occasions. But instead of fruit in a pie, it's a carcass in agave juice.

    As for Andrés' Del Maguey Ibérico: It may not be like drinking bacon-flavored tequila, but it is made with the finest free-range, acorn-fed, black-footed Ibérico pig flown in from Spain. And I bet his family reunions are one hell of a good time. Where can you try it if you're not in D.C.? See our list below:

    26 AMERICAN BARS THAT SERVE PECHUGA MEZCAL,
    IN NO PARTICULAR ORDER

    1. OYAMEL, WASHINGTON D.C.
    2. LA URBANA, SAN FRANCISCO
    3. PRIZEFIGHTER, EMERYVILLE, CALIFORNIA
    4. THE PASTRY WAR, HOUSTON, TEXAS
    5. WILLIAMS & GRAHAM, DENVER
    6. JIMMY'S, ASPEN, COLORADO
    7. MEZCALERIA OAXACA, SEATTLE
    8. LIBERTY, SEATTLE
    9. MAYAHUEL, NEW YORK CITY
    10. TACO LU, JACKSONVILLE BEACH, FLORIDA
    11. TEQUILA MUSEO MAYAHUEL, SACRAMENTO, CALIFORNIA
    12. VERDE, PITTSBURGH
    13. CANTINA MAYAHUEL, SAN DIEGO
    14. PORT FONDA, KANSAS CITY, MISSOURI
    15. ESQUIRE TAVERN, SAN ANTONIO
    16. LAS PERLAS, LOS ANGELES
    17. GUELAGUETZA, LOS ANGELES
    18. MOSTO, SAN FRANCISCO
    19. CASA MEZCAL, NEW YORK CITY
    20. HILLTOP KITCHEN, TACOMA, WASHINGTON
    21. AÑEJO TEQUILERIA, MANHATTAN, NEW YORK
    22. PENCA RESTAURANT, TUCSON, ARIZONA
    23. LONE STAR TACO BAR, ALLSTON, MASSACHUSETTS
    24. COMAL, BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA
    25. SCOPA ITALIAN ROOTS, LOS ANGELES
    26. MASA AZUL, CHICAGO

     

     

     

  • With Pokemon Ice Balls You Can Catch All The Drinks

    Pokemon Go is taking America by storm, but if you want in on the action without leaving the comfort of your home bar you might try making these Pokemon-themed ice balls instead.

    Pokemon ice ball7

     

    The process is really easy. I did it with two different sized ice ball molds:

     

    • IMG_2087
    • IMG_2099
    IMG_2099

     

    Step 1: Fill the bottom half of an ice ball mold with red liquid. I used cranberry juice in one (the darker one) and one of the red flavors of Gatorade in the other. Let it freeze overnight.

    Pokemon ice ball14

     

    Step 2: Chill some water. Put it in the refrigerator for a long time, then into the freezer for 20-30 minutes so it is just above freezing. You don't want to add hot water to the mold or it will make the red color bleed into the other half of the ice ball.

    Step 3: Attach the top of the mold and fill the other half with the cold water. 

    Step 4: Wait for it to freeze then pop it out and catch all the drinks.

     

    • Pokemon ice ball6
    • Pokemon ice ball10
    Pokemon ice ball10

     

     

    • Pokemon ice ball12
    • Pokemon ice ball9
    Pokemon ice ball9

     

     

    These Pokemon ice balls would be fun in non-alcoholic Pokemon cocktails or perhaps in a Pokemon Gin & Tonic. 

     

    Pokemon ice ball4
    Pokemon ice ball4

     

    Related articles
    Clear Ice Cubes Using a Tray in a Cooler
    A New Clear Ice Ball Maker That Seems To Work Okay
    Make Perfectly Clear Ice Balls Using Insulated Mugs
    Fact-Checking the Clear Ice Balls Method

  • The Difference Between Bitter Almonds, Sweet Almonds, and Stone Fruit Seeds

    The difference between almonds, bitter almonds, "bitter almonds," and stone fruit pits/seeds like apricot, peach, and cherry can be very confusing. This post will hopefully help sort that out.

    Almond trees come in either sweet or bitter varieties. Sweet almonds are the ones you eat, and considered safe.

    Bitter almonds contain cyanide precursors and are not commercially available in the United States. According to Wikipedia, "Bitter almonds may yield from 4–9 mg of hydrogen cyanide per almond and contain 42 times higher amounts of cyanide than the trace levels found in sweet almonds."

    The FDA requires that bitter almond oils are “free from prussic acid (cyanide).” 

    But bitter almond liqueurs like Disaronno and Luxardo Amaretto contain bitter almonds. Well, yes and not really. These liqueurs contain the oil of "bitter almonds," which is how they refer to the seeds of stonefruit.

    Disaronno only uses apricot pits in their formulation, while Luxardo uses all three of the stone fruits. The stone fruit seeds are crushed and distilled, leaving behind the dangerous parts. The bitter almond oil is collected and used to flavor the liqueurs.

    I bought some almonds, peach seeds, and apricot seeds online. As you can see, the unsafe "bitter almonds" just look like smaller sweet almonds.

     

    IMG_2031

     

    In short:

    • Almonds are sweet almonds.
    • Bitter almonds are a type of high-cyanide-containing almonds, but also:
    • "Bitter almonds" you see for sale/on ingredient lists are usually the seeds of stone fruit like apricots, cherries, and peaches. 

    According to the TTB: "Bitter Almond Oil produced from the pits of Bitter Almond, Peach, Apricot or Cherry must be free from Prussic Acid (FFPA) as determined by the AOAC Method 973.19." So no matter which type of bitter almond one chooses, it must be free of cyanide.

    Another note: There is some confusion (or at least I had some) about whether those stone fruits that resemble almonds are the pits or the seeds of the fruit. Pits are the containers of the seeds, and the seeds are the things that look like tree almonds. So in the picture, you can see that the sweet almonds refers to the seeds, which are surrounded by the pits.

    For practical (rather than botanical) purposes, these seeds can also be called kernels. 

     

     

     

    Related articles
    Disaronno Distillery Visit in Saronno Italy

  • Watch Me Say Things About Japanese Bartending in this Awesome Short Film

    Alan Kropf and Matthew Noel made a short film about Japanese bartending in which they interviewed knowledgeable US bartenders, filmed working Japanese bartenders, and also had me say a few things. I sound smart, so you know the editing was great 🙂

    But seriously they did a great job on the 17-minute featurette and I think it summarizes the uniqueness of the Japanese bartending style, technique, service, and of course, ice-handling. 

    Camper english in japanese bartending film

    Check it out here:

     

     

  • What They Got Right – and Wrong – at ABV in San Francisco

    ABV in San Francisco won the Best New Cocktail Bar award at Tales of the Cocktail in 2015. 

    I decided to interview one of the owners, Ryan Fitzgerald, on what he feels they did right and wrong, and what changed from initial plans, when opening it. 

    There are some really good and interesting tips for other bar owners to consider; stuff about bar ergonomics and having bartenders working the floor. 

    Check out the story here.

     

    Abv liquor

     

     

    Related articles
    The Cocktail Menu for ABV in San Francisco, Opening Later This Week
    A Tinder-Optimized Origami-Instructing Cocktail Menu at Dalva in San Francisco

  • What to Talk About, When you Talk About Armagnac

    I wrote a piece for Liquor.com on armagnac – not so much on armagnac generally, but on how bartenders might quickly describe to customers armagnac and how it's different from cognac. 

    I asked a bunch of people what language they use, and took the best responses.

    Screen Shot 2016-05-25 at 8.26.52 AM

     

    The story is here.

  • Vodka Made from Fog Water on Popular Science

    In my latest story for PopularScience.com, I wrote about the new Hangar 1 Fog Point Vodka, which was diluted with fog-harvested water from San Francisco; most of it from beneath Sutro Tower on Twin Peaks.

    IMG_5077

    In another deviation from their standard blend of grain spirit with grape, this product is distilled from 100% biodynamic wine from Bonny Doon – they actually purchased it in bottle, dumped the bottles and distilled. 

    Then the batch was diluted with 1000 liters of fog water that had been boiled and filtered through carbon. 

    Yesterday I visited Tilden Park in the East Bay, where a volunteer has two fog catchers hidden on the steep hills. It was unfortunately sunny, but our guide squirted water from a spray bottle to show us how the nets on the fog catcher pick up 50% of the water that passes through them – pretty impressive. The small fog catchers get from 1L per day, now up to 1.5L, and they expect them to pick up 3-5L per day in the foggiest season.

    Anyway, check out the story on PopSci.com!

     

    Hangar1 Fog PointFogCatcher

     

  • LASER STAVES! How whisky makers are using barrels toasted with an infrared ‘sun on a stick’

    StavesIn a post for PopularScience.com I wrote about a technology being employed to toast wine and now whiskey barrels with infrared light. 

    Buffalo Trace released their latest Experimental Collection bourbon with 6.5 year old whisky aged in barrels treated with infrared light. 

    The technology replaces the toasting phase of barrel-making, not the charring stage, and can be used to toast wood without getting it all smoky. 

    The process imparts different flavors to the bourbon, as they found out. 

    Check out the story on PopSci.com!

     

    Related articles
    Bourbon Doesn't Need to be Aged in American Oak Barrels, or in Barrels at All

  • What is Directional Freezing?

    Directional Freezing is a simple method to make crystal clear ice by controlling the direction that water freezes. It was first explained here on Alcademics.com by Camper English (me) in December 2009 after months of experiments.  The method has been written about in books, used in commercial products, and is employed in many small cocktail bars around the world. 

    The Directional Freezing method is: Allow water to freeze into ice from only one direction (one side of a container) and the ice will be clear until the very last part to freeze. The last part to freeze (if allowed to freeze at all) will be cloudy. 

    Slide2The simplest (and original) way to make a clear ice block by directional freezing is to fill a hard-sided picnic cooler with water, place it in a freezer, and allow it to freeze with the cooler's top off. The water will only freeze into ice from the top-down, and only the last 25% or so of the ice block that forms will be cloudy. If the block is removed from the freezer before this point, one will have a perfectly clear slab of ice. Otherwise, the bottom cloudy portion of the ice block can be cut off from the clear part. 

     

    How Traditional Ice Cubes Freeze and Why They Are Cloudy

    Slide1In a traditional ice cube tray, which is not insulated on any side, cool air hits all sides of the tray. Ice forms on the top, bottom, and sides, and freezes from the outside toward the center. It is the center part of an ice cube where it is cloudy and cracked (the cracking through pressure because ice expands as it freezes), while the outsides are typically clear.

    We say that ice wants to freeze into a perfect crystal lattice (though want isn't the proper term) and trapped impurities and air prevent it from doing so. When water freezes, it pushes any trapped air and impurities away from the first part to freeze. In a traditional ice cube this is towards the center of the cube. Using directional freezing, it pushes the air/impurities/increase in pressure towards the bottom of insulated cooler (or the last part of any controlled-direction freezing container). 

    Further Reading

    This link to the index of ice experiments on Alcademics lists just about everything myself and Alcademics readers have tried to make clear ice: experiments that failed (such as using boiled water), how to make clear ice cubes, how to make clear ice balls, and using other shapes and containers to save space in the freezer. 

     

     

    Strawberry ice sphere (30)
     

     

     

  • Make Perfectly Clear Ice Balls Using a Beer Koozie

    Boiled vs two unboiled
    Alcademics readers have found numerous ways to make clear ice balls, all taking advantage of Directional Freezing, the process I developed (and named) to make perfectly clear ice using an insulated cooler.

    You can find an index of all the ice experiments on Alcademics here.

    Some of the ice ball methods are:

    Today's technique is a variation of Making Clear Ice Balls Using an Insulated Mug (probably the least space-intensive method), which I fact-checked here. It's basically just a different insulated mug. 

    This technique comes from Alcademics reader Cody P, who refined the method. He says, "Doing ice balls like this is just like your article on using a mug, but I left a few mugs too long and they broke from expansion (no big deal if a little can breaks)."

    This method uses a beer can in a koozie with the top cut off. 

    The technique is:

    1. Buy a Yeti Colster. (Another brand might work, but Yeti makes particularly good insulated mugs/koozies.)
    2. Buy some ice ball molds. Cody P said he thinks he bought his (seen in the pictures) at Williams Sonoma, but they're the same size as these 2.5" ice ball molds.
    3. Cut the top off a beer can (and consider filing or taping the top edge to prevent it cutting you when using. 
    4. Put the can in the Colster and fill it with water.
    5. Fill an ice ball mold almost full (leave a little room) with water.
    6. Hold your thumb over the hole of the ice ball mold and set it upside-down (hole facing down) on top of the can in the Colster. 
    7. Allow to freeze overnight or roughly 8-10 hours. Remove frozen ice ball. 

    Can and coozy

    Removing excess water
    Removing excess water

    Boiled vs two unboiled

    (For first-time readers, what is happening is that the water in the ice ball is the first part to freeze, pushing trapped air/impurities away from the point of freezing down into the insulated mug.)

    Though I've not had additional success with boiling water before freezing, Cody P has. He observed: 

    1. If you boil the water then the ice comes out SUPER, unboiled gives these air bubbles on the surface but still comes out 100X better than a regular mold.
    2. If you don't pour out some water like I'm doing in one of the pictures, your ball can become an egg as seen in the ice ball picture.
    3. It takes about 8-10 hours to freeze a ball in my freezer but I'm not sure what the temperature is.
    4. If you just want blocks of ice, regular tap water works great since it freezes super slow and is a small volume of water (I think). I found that after about 14 hours I can take out the large block you see and break it in half to use for whiskey and such. They are also decent sized to use an ice ball press.

    Pictures of the ice from the bottom of the can are below.

    Boiled4
    Boiled4

     

    Thanks much to Cody P for the method and for sending in the pictures!

     

    Related articles
    Make Perfectly Clear Ice Balls Using Insulated Mugs
    A New Clear Ice Ball Maker That Seems To Work Okay
    Fact-Checking the Clear Ice Balls Method
    Making a Clear Ice Block from the Bottom Up
    Clear Ice Cubes Using a Tray in a Cooler