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  • Tequila Distillery Visit: Jose Cuervo

    In November I visited seven tequila distilleries in Mexico. Here are some pictures and notes from my visit to the Jose Cuervo distillery in the town of Tequila.

    Tequila jose cuervo agave fields2_tn(First we visited an agave field.)

    Sharpening coa tequila jose cuervo agave fields_tn
    (The jimador harvested the agave plant to get the pina, or pineapple, center.)

    Camper english planting agave at tequila jose cuervo field4_tn
    (I planted my own agave from the cuttings of a mother plant. I'll need to go back there in 7 or so years and drink that sucker.)

    Loading agave ovens tequila jose cuervo distillery2_tn
    (After harvesting, they load the agave pinas into the ovens. I didn't notice at the time, but it appears they put the whole agaves into the ovens without chopping them into smaller pieces.)

    Copper pot stills tequila jose cuervo distillery2_tn
    (Copper pot stills.)

    Barrel sample tequila jose cuervo distillery_tn
    (We sampled some Reserva de la Famila out of the barrel.)

    • April and May are the planting months for agave
    • Agave is harvested year-round, though they usually avoid the rainiest month
    • Cuervo irrigates their agave
    • They prune the leaves of their agave plants for three reasons: Because they're sharp, to avoid insects laying eggs in them, and to help the heart grow faster
    • For Reserva de la Familia, they cut out the cogollo, not for the mixto
    • Cuervo owns 4 distilleries
    • The distillery had 110,000 visitors last year
    • They use only oven, no autoclaves
    • The product of the first distillation, called ordinario, is cloudy
    • Heads and tails are called vinasas. They are mixed with the agave fibers and made into fertilizer. This happens here and at most distilleries we visited.
    • Reserva de la Familia agave is grown in special fields. It is aged in a combination of French and American oak barrels.

     

     

    Crow in cage tequila jose cuervo distillery_tn
    (I think it's a raven and not a crow, but hey look, I took a cool picture!)

    Horse and lasso show tequila jose cuervo distillery4_tn
    (We had a horse and lasso show before dinner. )

  • Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Grupo Estevez

    In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Grupo Estevez. 

    Bodegas grupo estevez 14_tn
    (Sherry sleeping peacefully in the bodega.) 

    Bodegas grupo estevez lola flores_tn
    (One of the warehouses is named for flamenco dancer Lola Flores.)

    Bodegas grupo estevez horse 3_tn
    (Horse stables and ring behind the bodegas. Jerez is home to flamenco, dancing horses, and sherry.)

    Bodegas grupo estevez 3_tn
    (The interior is a fancy place with fine art and marble statues.)

     

    • Tio Mateo, Agostino, Tesoro, La Gita are some of their brands
    • They used to have several bodegas, centralized them all to the one we visited 20 years ago
    • One bodega named after flamenco dancer Lola Flores 
    • La Gita manzanilla from Sanlucar is the only manzanilla that has a production date on the bottle- should help us Americans know when its too old to buy
    • Inocente Fino is fermented in the barrel not in stainless tanks. 

  • Tequila Distillery Visit: Cazadores and Corzo

    In November I visited seven tequila distilleries in Mexico. Here are some pictures and notes from my visit to the Cazadores and Corzo distillery in the town of Arandas.

    Autoclaves tequila cazadores_tn
    (Autoclaves cook agave much faster than traditional brick/clay ovens.)

    Tequila pipes tequila cazadores_tn
    (It's a huge operation here. The liquids travel in pipes through a tunnel beneath a road separating parts of the distillery.)

    Stainless steel stills tequila cazadores (2)_tn
    (Stainless steel stills.)

    • In 1922 the recipe for Cazadores reposado was created
    • They process 200 tons of agave per day in the distillery
    • The autoclaves cook agave for 10 hours at 120 Celsius. Soon they're reducing the cooking time to 8 hours. 
    • After shredding the agave (after cooking it in autoclaves), they put it in a diffuser; a relatively recent technology that gets the last bits of the sugar out of the agave
    • They allow the agave to ferment for about 4 days. The tequila undergoes an alcoholic then a malolactic fermentation
    • The first distillation takes about 10 hours, the second takes about 24 hours
    • The stills are stainless steel
    • They do have a column still that they use "when demand is high"
    • Corzo starts from Cazadores reposado. It is then redistilled and re-aged.
    • They aged in new white American oak, with some French oak for Corzo

    Dancers tequila cazadores10_tn
    (After the tour, dinner and a dance show in the distillery.)

  • Bits and Pieces from Winter Drinking Guide in 7×7 Magazine

    My San Francisco winter drinking guide in 7×7 Magazine is coming online in bits and pieces.

    Whiskey

    Here are some:

  • Hot Buttered Fun

    Hot_buttered_anejo_med_lg Hot Buttered Fun would be a good party band name, right? 

    My latest post on FineCooking.com is up. It's a recipe for the Hot Buttered Anejo, which is a hot buttered tequila that I had one night when the brand Avion was pouring drinks at Elixir. 

    Check it out here

  • Four Roses Bourbon Distillery Visit

    This week I was in Kentucky for a quick visit to the Four Roses distillery. For some history on this brand, see this post a I wrote a few years ago. In short, Four Roses was only a bourbon in Japan for many years, and has recently come back to the US market. They use two mashbills (grain makeup) and five strains of yeast to make ten recipes of bourbon. 

    Four roses rickhouse3_tn

    The ten recipes blended together ensure a consistent bourbon from batch to batch. Another way they help do this is by having single-story rickhouses. While other brands have several floors in their rickhouses with quite extreme temperature variations in them, at Four Roses they're only one floor high, six barrels tall, with a much less variation in temperature from top to bottom.

    Four roses tasting 10 recipes_tn
     We did two tastings at the distillery. One was tasting all ten recipes of the white dog. They have quite the wide range of flavor, from fruity to spicy. The second was tasting several barrels all with the same recipe from different barrels. This was fascinating as there was a surprisingly large difference: one tasted like oloroso sherry, one like apricot socks, one like creamed corn.

    Four roses still_tn

    Largely because they've been selling mostly in Japan, they use all non-GMO corn. Distillery Jim Rutledge says they don't really advertise that because he doesn't expect they'll be able to get enough non-GMO corn to continue doing so: everything is being replaced by the modified stuff. 

    Four roses obsk_tn

    Well I have to run to another event- more on this interesting brand another time. 

  • Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Tradicion

    In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Tradicion. 

    Bodegas tradicion 2_tn
     (The small and beautiful bodega.)

    Bodegas tradicion glass 4_tn
    (Drinking out of the barrel.)

    Bodegas tradicion 6_tn
    (Criadera refers to the level of the barrel in the solera system. The 1/18 refers to the number of the barrel and the total of the set. )

    Bodegas tradicion painting_tn
    (They also have an art gallery in the bodega. I call this painting "Laserdove".)

     

    • Bodega only started in 1998
    • Only produce old sherries –  VOS, VORS. 
    • They buy them from other bodegas already aged and put them into their solera system.
    • To my palate, older sherries are effervescent, literally. Very acidic. Lively jumps in your mouth.
  • Chartreuse + Chocolate = Delicious

    The week before Paul Clarke wrote about the same topic to make it look like I ripped him off, I wrote my next blog entry for FineCooking.com, about the magical mystery combination of Chartreuse liqueur and chocolate. 

    While Paul was creative and found four drinks that combine the two ingredients, I went to Jamie Boudreau and asked if I could borrow a single recipe he blogged about in 2007. I'd like to think that this just makes me efficient.  

    Hot chocolate med res
    (Verte Chaud by Jamie Bodreau. Photo also by Jamie Boudreau.)

    Read the story on FineCooking.com here.

    And remember, your comments at Fine Cooking make me love you more. 

  • Tequila Distillery Visit: Casa Pedro Domecq

    In November I visited seven tequila distilleries in Mexico. Here are some pictures and notes from my visit to Casa Pedro Domecq in the town of Arandas.

    Olmeca altos agave ovens2_tn(Agave being loaded into ovens. They use the same agave for treatment with rollermill as with tahona.)

    This distillery makes Tezon tequila, Olmeca Altos, and a mixto tequila for the Mexican market. I believe Tezon is all tahona tequila. This was distributed by Pernod Ricard in the US, but it appears they've abandoned it and are pursuing sales of Olmeca Altos, which is about half the price, instead. This tequila, also 100% agave, is made by blending agave that has been processed with a roller mill with tahona agave. 

    Tequila olmeca altos agave roller mill_tn(In the rollermill process, after the agave is baked to break up the complex into simpler, fermentable sugars, the agave is shredded using a rollermill.)

    Tequila olmeca altos tahona crushing agave4_tn
    (The tahona method. After baking the agave, the chunks of agave are placed in this pit. The large volcanic stone wheel rotates around in it, crushing the agave to expose the sugars before distillation. In olden times, the tahona would have been pulled by a mule.)

    Tequila olmeca altos tahona crushing agave2_tn
    (This is the post-tahona agave. Gross. The fibers actually reabsorb the liquids here. All of it is thrown into the fermentation tanks.)

    Fermenting agave tequila olmeca altos_tn
    (Fermenting agave juice.)

    Copper stills for tahona agave tequila olmeca altos (2)_tn
    (These stills are for the tahona agave- the big opening is so they can put in the fibers.)

    Barrels with plastic to prevent evaporation tequila olmeca altos_tn
    (In the warehouse, they cover the lids of some barrels with plastic to reduce evaporation.)

    • Agave for Olmeca Altos is 7-8 years old before harvest. 
    • They cut out the cogollo (the interior of the plant where it would sprout to reproduce if it could) in the field. 
    • They heat the agave in ovens, though they own an autoclave that is sometimes used for the mixto. 
    • They use larger pot stills for the mixto. 
    • They ferment and distill the tahona agave with the agave fibers, not the rollermill agave.
    • The reposado tequila is aged in ex-bourbon barrels for 6-8 months.
    • They replace the barrels after 9-10 years. They tried recharring the barrels but didn't like the results.
    • The last agave shortage was in 2000 and 2001. Some people predict another shortage in a year or two. 
    • Lowland soils are sandier, darker, and more volcanic
    • 60-70% of agave for tequila is grown in the highlands
  • Winter Drinking Guide in 7×7 Magazine

    Oh hello, giant sexy four-page spread in the December issue of 7×7 Magazine written by Camper English!

    7x7december2010

    Run screaming to your local newsstand to pick up the latest issue with a guide to winter drinking. In it you'll learn:

    • Where to get your fancy on in a hotel bar
    • The best hot drinks in SF
    • Bars with rooms for rent
    • The bar with 1200 Santa Claus dolls on display
    • How I worked the phrase "plaid-slathered" into a bar review
    • Gift ideas from local liquor stores
    • The best bar for hungover bartender spotting 

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