Category: bars

  • All the Cocktails and Spirits Books Published in 2016 for Reading or Gifting

    I love books! Here are all the books on cocktails and spirits I know of (please do comment if I've missed something) published this year. Give some gifts or just stock up on your winter reading for the cold months. I've got stacks to get through myself.

     

    Whiskey Books

    6a00e553b3da20883401b8d22461da970c.jpgBourbon: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of an American Whiskey by Fred Minnick 

    More Kentucky Bourbon Cocktails by Joy Perrine and Susan Reigler 

    The Big Man of Jim Beam: Booker Noe And the Number-One Bourbon In the World by Jim Kokoris  

    Whisky Japan: The Essential Guide to the World's Most Exotic Whisky by Dominic Roskrow 

    Iconic Whisky: Tasting Notes & Flavour Charts for 1,500 of the World's Best Whiskies by Cyrille Mald and Alexandre Vingtier

    Whiskey: A Spirited Story with 75 Classic and Original Cocktails by Michael Dietsch

    The Manhattan: The Story of the First Modern Cocktail with Recipes by Philip Greene 

     

     

    Miscellany 

    6a00e553b3da20883401bb09376999970d.jpgMade of Iceland: A Drink & Draw Book  by Reyka Vodka, Snorri Sturluson 

    Inside The Bottle: People, Brands, and Stories  by Arthur Shapiro 

    The Craft Cocktail Coloring Book by Prof Johnny Plastini 

    Drinking with Republicans and Drinking with Democrats by Mark Will-Weber 

    The Moonshine Wars by Daniel Micko

    Drinks: A User's Guide by Adam McDowell

    Shrubs: An Old-Fashioned Drink for Modern Times (Second Edition) by Michael Dietsch 

    A Proper Drink: The Untold Story of How a Band of Bartenders Saved the Civilized Drinking World by Robert Simonson 

     Colonial Spirits: A Toast to Our Drunken History by Steven Grasse  

    DIY Bitters: Reviving the Forgotten Flavor – A Guide to Making Your Own Bitters for Bartenders, Cocktail Enthusiasts, Herbalists, and More by Jovial King and Guido Mase  

    Amaro: The Spirited World of Bittersweet, Herbal Liqueurs, with Cocktails, Recipes, and Formulas by Brad Thomas Parsons 

    Drink Like A Grown-Up by The League of Extraordinary Drinkers 

    The Coming of Southern Prohibition: The Dispensary System and the Battle over Liquor in South Carolina, 1907-1915 by Michael Lewis

    American Wino: A Tale of Reds, Whites, and One Man's Blues by Dan Dunn 

    Distilled Stories: California Artisans Behind the Spirits by Capra Press

    Building Bacardi: Architecture, Art & Identity by Allan T. Shulman 

    Craft Spirits by Eric Grossman 

     

     

    Cocktail Books, General

    6a00e553b3da20883401bb08fac9f3970d.jpgCocktails for Ding Dongs by Dustin Drankiewicz (Author), Alexandra Ensign (Illustrator)

    Zen and Tonic: Savory and Fresh Cocktails for the Enlightened Drinker by Jules Aron 

    Pretty Fly For a Mai Tai: Cocktails with rock 'n' roll spirit   

    Cocktails for Drinkers: Not-Even-Remotely-Artisanal, Three-Ingredient-or-Less Cocktails that Get to the Point  by Jennifer McCartney 

    Aperitivo: The Cocktail Culture of Italy by Marisa Huff 

    The Complete Cocktail Manual: 285 Tips, Tricks, and Recipes by Lou Bustamante and the United States Bartenders' Guild 

     Shake. Stir. Sip.: More than 50 Effortless Cocktails Made in Equal Parts by Kara Newman

    101 Cocktails to Try Before you Die  by Francois Monti 

     Drink Like a Man: The Only Cocktail Guide Anyone Really Needs by Ross McCammon and David Wondrich

    The New Cocktail Hour: The Essential Guide to Hand-Crafted Cocktails by Andre Darlington and Tenaya Darlington 

    Spritz: Italy's Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes by Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau  

    Eat Your Drink: Culinary Cocktails by Matthew Biancaniello 

    Cannabis Cocktails, Mocktails & Tonics: The Art of Spirited Drinks and Buzz-Worthy Libations by Warren Bobrow

    Tiki with a Twist: 75 Cool, Fresh, and Wild Tropical Cocktails by Lynn Calvo and James O. Fraioli 

     

     

    Cocktail Books from Bars or Places

    6a00e553b3da20883401bb094fd3d5970d.jpgThe Canon Cocktail Book: Recipes from the Award-Winning Bar by Jamie Boudreau  and James O. Fraioli 

    Regarding Cocktails by Sasha Petraske and Georgette Moger-Petraske 

    Brooklyn Spirits: Craft Distilling and Cocktails from the World's Hippest Borough By Peter Thomas Fornatale and Chris Wertz

    Smuggler's Cove: Exotic Cocktails, Rum, and the Cult of Tiki by Martin Cate and Rebecca Cate

     Cuban Cocktails: Over 50 mojitos, daiquiris and other refreshers from Havana

    Brooklyn Bar Bites: Great Dishes and Cocktails from New York's Food Mecca by Barbara Scott-Goodman

    The Waldorf Astoria Bar Book by Frank Caiafa 

    Lift Your Spirits: A Celebratory History of Cocktail Culture in New Orleans by Elizabeth M. Williams and Chris McMillian

     

     

    Science!

    6a00e553b3da20883401b7c893f3cb970b.jpgShots of Knowledge: The Science of Whiskey by Rob Arnold and Eric Simanek

    Distilled Knowledge: The Science Behind Drinking’s Greatest Myths, Legends, and Unanswered Questions  by Brian D Hoefling  

     

     

     

    Classic Cocktail Book Reprints

    THE HOME BARTENDER'S GUIDE AND SONG BOOK {By Charlie Roe and Jim Schwenck}

    AMERICAN BAR {By Frank P. Newman}

    LOUIS' MIXED DRINKS {By Louis Muckenstrum} 

     

     

    Beer (A few beer books slip through the cracks and come to me)

    The United States of Beer: A Freewheeling History of the All-American Drink by Dane Huckelbridge 

    The Beer Geek Handbook: Living a Life Ruled by Beer by Patrick Dawson  

     

     MY BOOK! 

     Please consider supporting Alcademics by  purchasing a copy of my book Tonic Water AKA G&T WTF. It's a gift to yourself, and a gift to me.

    Tonic water aka gandt wtf by camper english cover

     

     

    Want to see some of the previous years' books? Well, here they are:

    More Than 40 Drink Books Published in 2014 for Reading or Gifting

    All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting

  • Bartender Nexus: Range in San Francisco and its All-Star Cast

    Range_interior_2The owners of Range Restaurant announced that they'll be closing at the end of the year after 12 years in operation. Let's talk about how important this restaurant was for the world of San Francisco cocktails.

    This little restaurant was a surprising nexus of talented bartenders. I've been making mental notes of "nexus bars" for a while as I find it fascinating- the bars that see the most important bartenders come through them. Sometimes it's because those were the hottest venues in town, sometimes it's because everyone wanted to work with the bar manager, sometimes like at Range, well, I just don't know. Which makes it interesting.

    In San Francisco, some of those bars include Stars (from way before my time), Absinthe, Bourbon & Branch, Heaven's Dog, and certainly Range. 

    When Range first opened, the cocktail scene (as well as all of the bartenders compared to now) was fresh and young. Muddling and infusions and using fresh juice were still news.

    Heck, I was still writing about nightlife as well as cocktails,  still learning about them, and soon to move to full-time coverage of them by 2006. In a lot of ways, I came up in my career too learning from the bartenders at or from Range.  

    Let's look at where some of those bartenders are now:

    Carlos Yturria – Has since consulted on many different Bay Area bars and now is a co-owner of The Treasury in Downtown SF.  When Range first opened, I was obsessed with a (now embarrassingly simple) drink that was a Gin & Tonic with a splash of Lillet Blanc. Turns out Carlos created that one. We've each come a long way since then.

    Perhaps Yturria's most-loved drink from his time at Range was the Sungold Zinger – a simple and exquisitely delicious cocktail with gin, lemon, and heirloom tomatoes that they'd bring back every year during tomato season. I'm not positive, but I think his drink Flash (kiwi, cucumber, gin) may have been created in that era and it's on his current menu at The Treasury. 

    Camber Lay – Has been the longtime lead bartender at Parallel 37 at the Ritz-Carlton in SF. I remember she was using a food dehydrator to create dried fruit rims on drinks and I was all, "What will those crazy mixologists think of next??" Ha! 

    Jon Santer – Now owns the much-loved/respected Emeryville bar Prizefighter. Kind of a big deal.

    Santer

    Santer in 2004. No idea what/where.

     

    Jeff Lyon became co-owner (along with Range chef Phil West) of Third Rail, a jerky and cocktail bar, in San Francisco's Dogpatch district. 

    Enrique Sanchez – San Francisco's omnipresent bartender, currently often working at my local-local ABV.

    Brooke Arthur– Came up through the ranks at Range and was the face of the bar for a long time. Later ran the programs at venues including Prospect and super-favorite Wo Hing General Store.  She is now a brand ambassador and vice president for House Spirits out of Portland, OR. 

    Unnamed

    Brooke Arthur at Range

    Thomas Waugh – Moved to New York and is doing incredible things as the cocktail king of Major Food Group. You might have one of his drinks at a half dozen places in town. 

    Dominic Venegas – After working pretty much everywhere great in SF, moved to New York and was bartending at the every-award-winning Nomad before taking a brand ambassador job with Pernod-Ricard. Way back just post-Range, Venegas and Yturria were awarded the SF Chronicle's "Bar Stars" as a team.   

     

    So… Yeah a lot of great people went through that bar- and more than just these folks I'm sure. Respect. Range is/was one of the most important restaurants in San Francisco's cocktail history. 

     

     

     

     

  • Nothing Shaken, Nothing Stirred: The Perennial’s Strained Relationship with Ice

    San Francisco restaurant The Perennial has a cocktail program in which none of the drinks on the menu are either shaken or stirred. What's up with that?

    The program, lead by Jennifer Colliau (also of The Interval and Small Hand Foods) focusses on reducing waste with a big emphasis on water waste.

    DSCF2781

    Ice frozen into bottom of glasses. Photo by Jason Rowan.

     

    Ice Machine Waste

    According to Colliau, both Kold Draft and Hoshizaki ice machines (which produce the large clear cubes in most better bars in the US) waste 50% of the water that goes into them. The way these machines make their ice is that water runs over or is sprayed over a cold plate; and apparently the run-off is simply sent down the drain.

    The Scotsman pellet ice machine, on the other hand, she says is 95% efficient. Thus the desire was to not use the water-wasteful machines in the program. They use only the Scotsman machine, but they don't use it for everything. 

    A second point of water waste: The average shaken or stirred cocktail is assembled in a mixing glass or cocktail shaker, shaken or stirred, and then strained and poured onto new ice in the serving glass –  and the shaking/stirring glass ice is dumped out (using nearly twice the amount of water). Then the cocktail shaker/mixing glass must also be washed/rinsed out. Colliau sought to eliminate this waste. 

    Reducing Ice Use

    For stirred cocktails on the menu at The Perennial, the drinks a batched in advance and are served in glasses in which a specific amount of water has been frozen to the bottom (glasses are kept in the freezer obviously). Stirred drinks on the menu are also pre-diluted so they don't need to be stirred but rather just poured. The liquids are kept refrigerated until service, then simply poured into the ice-containing glasses. I asked Colliau how she developed the system. She said:

    I originally stirred these drinks to various temperatures, depending on their alcohol content, until they tasted the best. I measured the drink going in to the beaker then out to see how much dilution resulted from the ice melt. Then, because all of our freezers are the same, I took that dilution proportion and held the resulting drink in the freezer to make sure it tasted great even at that colder temperature.

    Served in rocks glasses with ice frozen into them, approximately every 5 minutes the drink gets about 5 degrees warmer until it hits around 35F. It's important that the drink taste delicious over time.

    Ideally we would White Lyan-style this execution and have different freezer temps for different drinks, but we use these freezers to chill glassware and keep sherbet and large ice in them, so we hold them all cold and manipulate the dilutions to work for each drink.

    For shaken cocktails, things are even more complicated – the act of shaking is to roughly mix and emulsify ingredients together. To accomplish this, they use 1/3 cup of Scotsman ice, and run the cocktail through a blender in a small mason jar until there is no ice left. Thus the drink is "shaken" and no ice is dumped out at the end. Colliau says she'd definitely prefer a less noisy option, but it's the best they can do so far. 

     

    IMG_2650

    Mason jar mouths fit blender blades. "Shaken" cocktails are blended until the ice is all gone.

     

    For off-menu cocktails, they have cubes from 2" Tovolo ice cube trays that they can use for rocks or cracked for stirring.  

    Stirring to Temperature

    For off-menu drinks that are not pre-diluted, they stir drinks to temperature; as temperature directly relates to dilution. 

    The idea is that because ice kept in the well is basically at 32 degrees (F), all dilution of the drink will result in known temperature reductions (and vice versa). Thus to serve a drink the bartender can put in some cracked ice in the glass, stir a bit, prepare other more complicated drinks while it is diluting/melting, then check the temperature and stir more/add more ice if needed, until it reaches the desired final temperature. Any extra ice will be dumped.

    Colliau notes, "Cobbled ice has so much surface area that it over-dilutes too quickly to stop when the drink is ready to go."

    DSCF2743

    Tall drink served on pellet ice with straw straw and dehydrated citrus wheel. Photo by Jason Rowan.

    Temperature of Stirring

    For low-alcohol drinks and those served on glasses with ice frozen into the bottom, they stir to 35 degrees. For regular stirred drinks like a Manhattan or Martini, they stir to 32 degrees as there will be no additional dilution from ice in the glass. And for the Gimlet at The Interval, they stir down to 25 degrees because the drink uses high-proof gin and additional dilution is needed.

    Colliau says, "These are temps that I like for certain drinks, and they are guidelines rather than hard rules. Above all the drinks should be delicious! Using temps makes consistent execution across staff much, much easier."
     

    Other Eco Savings

    • For straw tasting of cocktails, not only do they not use plastic straws (actual ones made of straw are give to customers), they use a system of a spoon and metal straw – you dip the straw into the drink then empty it into a spoon that you use to taste. Thus you don't need to wash the equipment each time. 
    • Water un-drank from water pitchers on tables is collected, combined, and used to water the rooftop garden.
    • They don't "burn" the ice wells at the end of each night: Ice in the wells is used the next day as the ice for chilling syrup and juice bottles. At the end of the week (they are closed on Sundays) they drain clean the ice wells. 
    • To cut down on waste of citrus, they used preserved whole limes in one drink and make whole-grapefruit marmalade for another.
    • For fresh juice, they will use leftovers for one day, and then make sherbet for any leftovers at the end of the week. She notes, "Closed on Sundays, juice on Mondays, use 1-day-old juice on Tuesdays in the service well and squeeze fresh to par, keep rotating like that so ideally we use all of the day-old juice the next day, then on Saturday night we mix the lemon, lime and orange juices with milk and pineapple gum syrup and turn it into sherbet. (No grapefruit for medical contraindications.)" 
    • For purchasing decisions, they look at the carbon footprint of not only the actual product, but its bottling and transportation. High-proof spirits mean less water is shipped in bottles; heavier bottles mean more carbon as well. Shipping is a far less carbon-intensive mode of transport than trucking, so Colliau notes that trucking bourbon across the country from Kentucky might ultimately have a higher carbon footprint than shipping it to California from Japan, even though the distances are vastly different. 

    I'm sure there are tons more environment-saving considerations and processes in place – and this is just on the drink side of the program. This is definitely a more thoughtful process than pretty much every other bar attempting to reduce waste. Really, really impressive.

     

    412HieI+crLHomework: Colliau says she got a lot of information about carbon footprint of transporting bottles and other ingredients from the book How Bad Are Bananas? I'm planning to read it one of these days. 

     

     

     

     

  • What They Got Right – and Wrong – at ABV in San Francisco

    ABV in San Francisco won the Best New Cocktail Bar award at Tales of the Cocktail in 2015. 

    I decided to interview one of the owners, Ryan Fitzgerald, on what he feels they did right and wrong, and what changed from initial plans, when opening it. 

    There are some really good and interesting tips for other bar owners to consider; stuff about bar ergonomics and having bartenders working the floor. 

    Check out the story here.

     

    Abv liquor

     

     

  • A List of Awesome Bar Names from Jamaica

    I was in Jamaica a couple weeks ago visiting rum distilleries. Much like on Barbados (where they are called rum shops), Jamaica has a huge number of bars (and churches) per capita.

    IMG_0821The bars line the sides of the roads and are usually little more than 1-room shacks. They have the best names, so given that we spent about 3 hours each day (each way) driving around the island, we made it a car game of finding the funniest-named bars on the island. 

    Here are a mere handful of the most awesome ones:

    • Sexy Ann's Purple Juice Bar and Lounge
    • Candy's Chill Spot
    • Plastics Bar and Lounge
    • Easy Hide Out Bar
    • Girly Hot Spot
    • Club Concussion
    • Chillax Reef Bar
    • IMG_0841Rum Face Bar
    • Just 1 More Bar
    • Wet Puss Bar
    • Teisha's Rendez-Vous
    • Denise Sports Bar
    • Sexy OC Bar
    • Yellow Bar
    • Amazing Taste Restaurant & Bar
    • Look Out a Road Pub
    • Star Light Bar and Meats
    • Flava's HQ
    • Godmother Sports Bar
    • Denise's Bar & Car Wash
    • Ann's Chill Out Shop
    • All Seasons Bar & Jerk Centre
    • Diva's Hot Spot
    • Hidden Treasures
    • Sasha Bar + Treats
    • Maggoty Jerk Center
    • Breathe Ezzi
    • Young Money Restaurant & Jerk Centre
    • Birdy's One-Stop Pub

     

    IMG_0846

     

  • Cocktails in Sydney’s Downtown District

    While I was in Sydney for the Bacardi Legacy global cocktail competition earlier this year, I checked out a bunch of the bars.

    Here is a write-up I wrote for Departures.com of several of them more or less in the Downtown areas closest to the Opera House.

     

    Sydney bars

     

  • Bars, Restaurants, and Sights of Lima, Peru

    In 2014 I visited Peru with Pisco Porton. In this post, I wanted to write up some places I visited in the city of Lima. I was only in town for about a day in a half, so I didn't see much. 

    Cocktail Bars and Restaurants in Lima

    Johnny Schuler's Key Club

    This restaurant is sort of like a speakeasy bar: It's open to the public, but there is no sign so you've gotta just know where it is. It looks very much like a place politicians and other power players would dine. I ate there with Schuler, who is the distiller of Porton. (He has a long history as a restaurateur and pisco television host before running his own distillery.) 

    Key Club Lima Peru Pisco Porton Tasting
    Key Club Lima Peru Pisco Porton Tasting

    amaZ

    This funky restaurant and bar in the Miraflores district specializes in fresh juices and herbs, with Amazonian ingredients in the food and drink and decor. There is a small central bar, lots of tables and chairs, and another dining room with wicker/rattan umbrellas over the top. 

    Amaz restaurant lima peru cocktail
    Amaz restaurant lima peru cocktail

    Malabar

    This restaurant has the same chef-owner as amaZ, but it's located in the San Isidro district. While it looked to be a ice restaurant, I sat at the bar and made friends with the bartender Jesus Avila Sovero. The restaurant is reportedly known for its Pisco Punch, which was sweet but nice. I also had a Chilcano (pisco and ginger ale) with anise; one with purple rice-infused pisco, tonic, and orange juice; and another with yellow tomatillo (that they call gooseberries). 

    This was definitely a good stop. 

    Malabar restaurant lima peru cocktails
    Malabar restaurant lima peru cocktails
    Malabar restaurant lima peru cocktails

    La Calesa

    The name means "buggy" or more likely "carriage" as you can see reflected in the hilarious laminated menu. Actually the whole place was pretty silly (located super close to Malabar) but I liked it. It is known for its traditional Pisco Sours, which are served double size.

    You can get those from a pre-batch or try any of the 16 pisco infusions featured on a shelf of jars. I had a Chilcano with camu-camu-infused pisco, as well as a touch of canela (cinnamon) pisco. I also tried the Algarrobina, which is sort of like eggnog but made with bean syrup. It was weirdly good. 

    La Calesa Restaurant Lima Peru Menu
    La Calesa Restaurant Lima Peru Menu
    La Calesa Restaurant Lima Peru Menu

    Huaca Pucllana

    This is a fancy/trendy restaurant adjacent to an ancient temple site from a civilization dating to 1000 years before the Incas. However it mostly looks like a pile of bricks. 

    The restaurant has a beautiful view though, over the ruins toward part of the city. 

    Huaca Pucllana temple Lima Peru7
    Huaca Pucllana temple Lima Peru7
    Huaca Pucllana temple Lima Peru7
    Huaca Pucllana temple Lima Peru7
     

     

     

  • Name These 12 Lost San Francisco Bars

    Can you identify these 12 no-longer-existing San Francisco watering holes?

    Jezebel's Joint

    This isn't one of the answers.

    1. What was the bar near 3rd and Market where the 7-11 convenience store is today?

    2. Which bar gave you Wet-Naps to accompany their unusual bar snacks?

    3. Which gay bar had a fence down the middle?

    4. What bar had a plastic deer frolicking in a winter scene as decoration?

    5. Before Stompy was held there, which club had a pool and retractable roof?

    6. Which place in the ghetto was known as *the* cocktail bar for bisexuals?

    7. Where did Mr. Mojito muddle? 

    8. What club had the address 550? 

    9. What was the legendary dance bar at the bottom of Haight Street? 

    10. What was the hotel bar named when it was named after a pool activity?

    11. The second bar was on Sixth Street. What was the name of the third one on Kearny? 

    12. What was the dance bar near Mission and Cesar Chavez?

    Feel free to post your responses in the comments. I put this on Facebook and so far nobody has gotten them all. 

     

  • The Cocktail Menu for ABV in San Francisco, Opening Later This Week

    Abv_logoWhile they haven't crossed all the T's and dotted the I's (or added the prices) to it, the good folks at ABV in San Francisco let me photograph their new menu.

    The bar is in soft-opening mode beginning Tuesday (and they'd really, really appreciate it if everyone didn't show up on Tuesday), and it will be open from 2PM – 2AM after that. 

    Reminder: ABV is a partnership between Erik Reichborn-Kjennerud (owner of Dalva, Dalva Hideout), Ryan Fitzgerald (former Beretta bar manager and Del Maguey Mezcal brand ambassador), and Todd Smith (former bartender at Dalva Hideout, former distributor rep with Pacific Edge, founding Bourbon & Branch bartender). 

    The menu contains 20 cocktails, including 4 non-alcoholic ones, divided by spirit. The menu flips at an angle and the bottle list of spirits is on the underside of the previous page. Click these photos to make them larger – you should be able to read it. 

    Menu cover
    Menu cover
    Menu cover
    Menu cover
    Menu cover
    Menu cover
    Menu cover

    There will also be a food menu, written above the back bar, but I'll let someone else cover that. 

    ABV is at 3174 16th Street, in the former Tokyo GoGo space. 

    ABV Back Bar