Category: cocktails

  • The Difference Between a Shrub and a Switchel

    I received the new cocktail menu from Brandon Wise of Imperial in Portland, Oregon and noticed that it has the following drink on it:

    Slings and Arrows: Dewars blended scotch, Lemonhart Demerara rum, Lemon, Mulled pinot noir syrup, Tony's homemade switchel.

    The last ingredient was described as, "House-made switchel, also known as swizzle or haymaker’s punch. A long forgotten ingredient, Wise’s nostalgic resurrection of this carbonated cross between sweet tea and apple cider is an appreciated addition to Imperial’s ingredient list."

    So, a switchel sounds a lot like a shrub, a (usually) fruit-and-vinegar syrup. I followed up with Wise to ask him:

    What's the difference between a switchel and a shrub?

    His response:

    There are many commonalities between switchel and shrub. The main difference is the role of fruit(s and veggies): shrubs, speaking in a general sense, are a way to preserve fruits of the season with vinegar. The switchel we make also incorporates vinegar, apple cider vinegar specifically, but does not rely on fruit for its flavor. Molasses, cider vinegar, and ginger are the key flavor agents in our switchel whereas in a 'strawberry shrub' (for example) the strawberry is the primary flavoring agent which is then effected by the vinegar. Switchel is a little closer to a root beer, ginger beer, or traditional ale.

    Another fundamental difference is that our switchel is itself a drink, not an ingredient in a drink. Shrubs are delicious when you add water or soda but operate more as a syrup or sweetening agent; our switchel is meant to be consumable on its own. We bottle condition with yeast much like we make our tonic water for natural carbonation. The goal was to make something like a sarsaparilla rather than a syrup. Switchel, like tonic, can be carbonated or uncarbonated, we simply choose to do it this way.

    We're very excited about this product and are pleased to see folks trying it for the first time and loving it. The cocktail on our menu that features switchel was an immediate hit and has become one of our best sellers. To my knowledge we are the only ones using it for cocktails and that is pretty exciting. It was something we stumbled upon when doing research for the Portland Penny Diner and its soda fountain component and have long desired to incorporate it into our beverage program. We've sat on the concept for almost a year until the season was right, and now we're seeing that our patience paid off. Resurrecting a quintessentially American beverage was our aim and our patrons are very much enjoying the fruits of that labor.

    I'm no historian or scientist so my answer may still be lacking, but hopefully a bit of the back story and its application can at least clarify its intent and its differentiation from a shrub. 

    That's a pretty thorough answer. Thanks Brandon!

     

    Switchel1

    Switchel in the bottle and the Slings and Arrows cocktail

     

  • Paloma Recipe Round-Up: 20+ Paloma Variations

    In my research on the Paloma I have come across many variations on the drink, so I thought I'd link to them here.

    Paloma3Typically the Paloma is made with tequila (always use 100% agave!), grapefruit soda such as Squirt or Jarritos, a squeeze of a lime wedge and a pinch of salt. Esquire's standard recipe is here. A version using fresh grapefruit and soda water is here.

    Here are some Paloma variations from around the internet. 

    Blood Orange and Thyme Paloma by Airda Molenkamp [recipe]

    Nuestra Paloma by Thad Vogler of Beretta, SF. It contains St. Germain, bitters, Cointreau, and grapefruit juice. [recipe]

    The Charred Grapefruit Paloma by Warren Bobrow [recipe]

    Paloma, Mi Amante by Paul Clarke – A Paloma using strawberry-infused tequila. [recipe]

    Paloma Variation – A Paloma using IPA beer, plus tequila, grapefruit cordial, and lime. [mentioned here; no recipe]

    Palomita – A Paloma without tequila; just using Coinreau, lime, and grapefruit. [recipe]

    Green Palomarita – Mezcal, lime, grapefruit, Chartreuse [recipe]

    Dove & Daisy – Tequila, lime, Aperol, orange liqueur, salt, soda water. [recipe]

    La Paloma – Grapefruit liqueur, tequila, grapefruit juice, lime, soda. [recipe]

    Cantarito – A Paloma variation using lemon, lime, and orange juices in place of the lime squeeze. [recipe]

    Paloma Brava by Dushan Zaric – Contains tequila, lime, orange, grapefruit, grapefruit soda, agave nectar, and salt. [recipe]

    La Canterita by Ashley Miller – Tequila, triple sec, agave nectar, grapefruit, lemon, lime, orange. [recipe]

    Strawberry Paloma with strawberry-infused tequila, honey, lime, and grapefruit. [recipe]

    Reunion Cooler by Jennifer Colliau- Tequila, peppercorns, pineapple, grapefruit peel, lime. [recipe]

    The 212 by Aisha Sharpe and Willy Shine – Tequila, Aperol, grapefruit [recipe]

    Siesta by Katie Stipe – Tequila, Campari, lime, grapefruit, simple syrup [recipe]

    Acapulco by Salvatore Calabrese – Tequila, rum, grapefruit, pineapple. [recipe]

    Cardarita by Ago Perrone – Tequila, almond-cardamom sugar, grapefruit, Galliano, ginger ale [recipe]

    Salty Chihuahua – Tequila, grapefruit juice, salt [recipe]

    Ginger Paloma – Ginger-grapefruit syrup, tequila, lime, club soda [recipe]

    Tequila Fresa Punch – Starwberry-infused tequila, triple sec, orange, lime, grapefruit soda, orange bitters [recipe]

     

  • Salad in a Glass: Arugula, Spinach, and Kale Cocktails

    In my latest post for Details.com, I talk about the interesting trend of leafy green salad vegetables making their way into cocktails. 

    Details salad

    Shut Up and Drink Your Salad: Cocktails Embrace Spinach, Kale, and Arugula
    By Camper English

     The West Coast style of cocktail in which bartenders muddle a cornucopia of fruits and herbs in their drinks has long been known as a "salad in a glass," but that term is taking on a whole new meaning as mixologists move to mashing leafy greens like spinach, kale, and arugula into drinks this spring.

    Check it out on Details.com

     

  • Cocktails in the Champagne Style

    For CLASS Magazine/DiffordsGuide.com, I interviewed Jeff Josenhans of San Diego's US Grant Hotel.

    He's been quietly doing pretty cool stuff over there. He implemented one of the first cocktail herb gardens, has barrel aged cocktails that he is able to sell commercially, and now features the "Cocktails Sur Lie" program. 

    IMG_7075_tn

    Cocktail ingredients (minus the base spirit) are fermented like wine, then put into champagne bottles and fermented a second time like champagne. Then they pop off the caps to get rid of the yeast and add base spirit in the 'dosage' step. 

    As he partnered with a winery production center, he now has the winery do the production work after he develops the recipes, which not only ensures consistency in the bottled beverages, but they can legally sell them at retail. 

    A truly clever part of this system is that the hotel does tons of events, and having these fancy bottled cocktails that pop open like champagne allows them to serve the same quality cocktails as you'd find in the bar at the events- just pop off the cork. 

    Read the interview here

     

    Grant grill1_tn

    (normally the bottles have a cork unlike in this picture)

     

  • The Wide World of the Ward Eight

    In my latest column for FineCooking.com, I talk about how the Ward Eight cocktail is everywhere these days. 

    You know how you learn the definition of a word and then suddenly you keep hearing that word everywhere? Over the past month it has been that way with me and the Ward Eight cocktail. 

    I had just finished reading the book Drinking Boston: A History of the City and its Spirits by Stphanie Schorow, in which the author spends a great deal of time discussing this drink and its history. The Ward Eight is the most famous classic cocktail from Boston, supposedly invented at the Locke-Ober restaurant in 1898. 

    In trying to verify the date of the drink's creation, Schorow studies the history of grenadine, the pomegranate syrup used in the drink. It was a new ingredient in America right around this time.

    Coincidentally, I was also studying the history of grenadine on my website. I performed a literature review and drew some conclusions, including the surprising finding that grenadine has been made as an artificially flavored cocktail ingredient forover 100 years!

    In another coincidence, two of my favorite drink writers also decided to look into the Ward Eight in the January 2013 edition of magazines. Historian David Wondrich took a look at the cocktail's history in Imbibe magazine, and writer Wayne Curtis covered the drink in searching for the quintessential New England cocktail in Yankee magazine. 

     

    Ward eightM

    I went to look up a recipe to put on the post on Fine Cooking, and found that the Ward Eight recipe is different in nearly every book. 

    The simplest is just rye, grenadine, and lemon juice. The most complex is those ingredients plus mint, bitters, and simple syrup. 

    So I settled on a common recipe with rye, grenadine, lemon, and orange juice. Get the recipe here.

     

  • Bartenders Dosing Drinks with Acid (Phosphate)

    My latest post for the Details.com Daily Blog is about acid phosphate and its popularity in cocktails.


    Details acid phosphate

    I mention Darcy O'Neil's Fix the Pumps book, of course, as well as his line of acid phosphate and lactart.

    I name-check a few bars serving acid phosphate drinks as well, including:

    • The Ice Cream Bar in San Francisco
    • The Franklin Fountain in Philadelphia
    • Honor Kitchen & Cocktails in Emeryville
    • Russell House in Cambridge, Mass
    • Still & Stir in Worcester, Mass

    Anyway, check out the post on acid phosphate over at Details.com

     

  • Cocktail Trend Predictions for 2013 on the Details Blog

    In my latest story for Details.com, I wrote a list of five trends for cocktails in 2013. 

    Details predictions 2013

    The include low-alcohol cocktails, the butcher and bartender connection, carbonated cocktails, bulk cocktails (punches, bottles, and cocktails on tap), and new molecular techniques. 

    Check it out!

  • A Huge Interview with Camper English on Eater.com

    I've got something to say! Apparently.

    Eater.com did a big interview with me about the SF cocktail scene and now it has gone live.

    I blab about everything from the lack of molecular mixology in San Francisco to the death of muddling to the rise of carbonated cocktails. It goes on and on.

     

    Camper Vertical

    Photo by Aubrie Pick www.aubriepick.com

     

    You'll have to let me know, but I think I didn't make too much of an ass out of myself. Read the story here.

     

  • A Quick Bit on Flips on Details.com

    My most recent story for Details.com is about flips: drinks made with whole eggs.

    In the piece I talk about silver and golden fizzes, noggs, and a few places to find flips around the country.

    Go check it out!

     

  • Correct Cocktail Carbonation

    In this weekend's story in the San Francisco Chronicle, I wrote about bartenders carbonating cocktails– to order, in bottles, on tap, and in one case with nitrous oxide instead of carbon dioxide. 

    Let's look at the ways bars in the story (and a few places I didn't have room to mention) are carbonating:

    Citrus

    • Starlight Room avoids fresh citrus, saying the carbonation gives it a touch of vinegar tingle, like juice going off.
    • Jasper's Corner Tap uses fresh citrus, but makes the bottled cocktails daily.

    Champagne

    • Chez Papa uses nitrous oxide to charge ingredients that will go into champagne drinks.
    • Spoonbar uses CO2, and throws the sparkling wine into the Perlini shaker along with the other ingredients.

    Gin & Tonic

    • Brasserie S&P uses homemade tonic syrup, charges it with water in iSi canisters, and uses the canisters until they're empty. They say this better integrates the syrup with the fizzy water than just adding a syrup to water in the glass.
    • Tradition uses homemade tonic syrup but puts it in a bottled G&T.

    Long Island Iced Tea

    • Rye (this cocktail is sometimes a nightly special) uses cola syrup plus all the booze and carbonates the drink to order.
    • Tradition barrel ages the liquor, adds cola syrup, and makes a bottled cocktail with it. 

    On Tap

    • Spoonbar adds already-carbonated Mexican coke and spiced rum to a keg, and charges it with another CO2 tank.
    • I'm not positive, but I think other bars mentioned in the story that are making carbonated cocktails put non-carbonated ingredients mixed together in a keg and it pours out with carbonated water, much like a soda dispenser in a restaurant. 

    It seems bars are all still figuring out the 'best practices' for carbonating cocktails, and that makes it all the more exciting for drinkers. 

    p.s. You can also find carbonated cocktails in the Bay Area at Elixir, Garcon and The Hotsy Totsy

    Read my story in the San Francisco Chronicle here.