Tag: distillery

  • A Visit to the Cointreau Distillery in Angers, France

    This October I visited the Cointreau distillery in Angers, France. Angers is located southwest of Paris, about equidistant from Paris and Bordeaux.  Guignolet

    I hadn't realized, but Cointreau was not originally famous for orange liqueur, but for Guignolet, a cherry liqueur. Cherries were brought the region by King Rene', who lived at the Chateau D'Angers.

    We visited this castle and its tapestry called The Apocalypse; the world's longest. 

    This way to the apocalypse Chateau DAngers_tn
    (This way to the Apocalypse!)

    Apocalypse tapesty Chateau DAngers2_tn

    The original Cointreau distillery was located in downtown Angers, but has since relocated. We drove to the distillery. 

    Cointreau distillery1_tn

    There, Alfred Cointreau explained the process.

    Alfred cointreau at cointreau distillery3_tn

    The Distillation of Cointreau

    Bitter and sweet orange peels are purchased from Brazil, Africa, and Spain. The dried peels at a certain ratio, along with some fresh peels, 96 percent neutral sugar beet alcohol, and water, are placed into the stills. The peels sit on a plate in the stills to make them easier to remove after distillation. They macerate this mixture overnight before distilling.

    The stills for the first distillation are shaped like water tanks, made of copper.

    Cointreau distillery stills3_tn

    After the first distillation, the alcohol passes up and over the tall, curved lyne arm to the second still. 

    Cointreau distillery stills2_tn

    The second still is a column. 

    Cointreau distillery stills4_tn

    (The straight pipes going back to the first stills are a type of reflux.)

    In this one room they make the world's supply of Cointreau- 15 million bottles annually. 

    Due to local restrictions, the Cointreau for Brazil and Argentina is distilled here as usual to make a concentrated Cointreau, but then diluted and sweetened with sugar cane alcohol and sugar cane sugar, while the rest of the world gets beet alcohol/sugar. It would be fun to compare the two to see if one could detect any differences. 

    Production Parameters

    We were then given a talk by Cointreau's Master Distiller Bernadette Langlais. Some information learned:

    • The sweet oranges lend the orangey taste; the bitter peels bring a fresh, zesty lemon/lime notes
    • Bitter oranges are harvested when still green
    • The peels are either dried in the sun or in ovens 
    • There are 220 different essential oils in orange peels
    • The bitter molecules from orange pith don't carry over during distillation. Thus they don't worry about the thickness of the peels. However, when something is just macerated (for example, limoncello) and not distilled then it is important to not get pith on the peels.
    • When they add water to reduce Cointreau to proof, the essential oils in the peels cause the liqueur to louche; to get cloudy like when you add water to absinthe. They centrifuge the Cointreau to make it clear again. [*Update* This isn't quite true – see this post for clarification on the centrifuge process.]
    • Of competing brands, they say that Cointreau has the highest amount of essential oils and the lowest amount of added sugar.
    • The used orange peels go for cattle feed after distillation.
    • Because of the volatility of the essential oils in Cointreau, bartenders should not leave a pour spout on the bottle overnight- some of the flavor will evaporate.

    Cointreau production talk7_tn

     History

    As mentioned previously, Cointreau originally produced cherry and many other liqueurs. (Today they still produce other products at the distillery but not under their name.) 

    Cointreau orgeat_tn

    As mentioned in this post, the Dutch were the first to make Curacao using bitter oranges from that island. When the French became famous for their liqueurs, curacao evolved into triple sec. 

    Cointreau initially produced a product called curacao, and then a 'curacao triple sec' and then a 'triple sec."

    Eventually many brands of triple sec came on the market. Cointreau's label used to have a big "Triple Sec" and a small "Cointreau" but later reversed their relative size. Today Cointreau doesn't even use 'triple sec' in its descriptor. 

    Cointreau triple sec_tn

    As we know, the 'sec' refers to the dry, or less sweetened style of liqueur. Their opinion about the word 'triple' (the two arguments being either triple distillation/triple refined, or three times as orangey) is three times as concentrated orange flavor. The company had also produced a 'triple creme de menthe' and other 'triple' products, which I think backs up this argument. 

    Camper at cointreau distillery_tn

  • DonQ Rum Visit to Puerto Rico

    This summer I visited the Destileria Serralles Puerto Rico, the home of DonQ Rum.

    Map Ponce

    DonQ is distilled in the southern part of Puerto Rico, in Ponce. The distillery has been on the same site since 1865. As with most rum distilleries, it was once the site of a sugar refinery and the distillery was a small part of the overall operation. Puerto Rico stopped producing sugar in the 1980s and the distillery became the important business.

    As with distilleries in the United States, during Prohibition Destileria Serralles was closed. After Prohibition ended, they rebuilt the distillery, this time with column stills to replace the previous pot stills. One of those distillation columns from 1934 is still in use today.

    Making Rum

    The molasses for DonQ is purchased on the open market; the low-sugar stuff from the Dominican Republic or thereabouts, and the high-test sugar-rich stuff from Gautemala. (I learned only recently that with improving technology and higher prices for sugar, they are stripping more sugar out of molasses so they need to suplement lower-quality molasses with special high-sugar stuff so that there is enough sugar in the liquid to ferment.)

    The molasses is shipped into the port of Ponce and then transported to the distillery, where it is pasteurized to prevent any spontaneous fermentation.

    It is then fermented in stainless steel fermenters with their own strain of yeast until it reaches 8-10 percent alcohol by volume. They distill two rums that are later blended; a "light" and "heavy" version. The lighter version ferments for a lesser time than the heavy.

    The heavy rum is distilled in the original beer column (the first column of a multi-column still) from 1934. It looks just as old as it is. 

    Column still 1934 DonQ Serralles Distillery Tour3_tn

    Column still 1934 DonQ Serralles Distillery Tour2_tn

    The light rum is distilled in the newer, multi-column stills.

    Column stills DonQ Serralles Distillery Tour_tn
    After distillation, the rum is aged. The barrels used at DonQ are used twice before they buy them: the first time by the bourbon industry (as with most rums, tequilas, and scotch because barrels can only be used ounce for bourbon by law), but also another time for "light whiskey" which I take to mean blended whiskey like Seagram's.

    Thus there should be less wood influence from these barrels than on other products. Furthermore, they reuse them about 20 times and never rechar them.

    Outdoor barrels DonQ Serralles Distillery Tour_tn

    The rums are aged at a few different proofs, aged separately as light or heavy-style rums, and some is aged as a "medium" rum; a blend of the two. There are also some solera-aged rums in ex-sherry barrels, which are added to some of the blends.

    Sustainability Practices

    Roberto Serralles is a sixth-gernation Serralles family member who holds a PhD in environmental sciences. He is responsible for making this distillery more eco-friendly with the goal of making it waste-free. If given the chance to see him speak, I highly recommend it because he is engaging, authentic, enthusiastic, and making a real difference. Some of the innovations he has helped develop are already being copied by other distilleries. 

    The DonQ website has a great overview of the sustainability practices in place, though from what we learned on-site many of these are evolving from how they are described there.

    Website eco paste

    The carbon dioxide released during the fermentation process used to be captured and sold to use to carbonate sodas, but a change in legal regulations has made this undoable in the short term.

    The distilled molasses "beer" is only 8-10 percent alcohol, then is distilled up to 75 – 90 percent. That leaves a lot of excess water with organic material leftover – during the height of their production 350,000 gallons of wastewater per day. 

    The goal is to separate out the organic matter from the water so that you can reuse the water. First they use anaerobic digesters, in which bacteria eat the organic matter and release biogass. (I want to write a book about distillery waste and call it "Everybody Farts".) This biogass is burned to produce heat at the distillery and reduces the distillery's oil consumption by about 50 percent.

    The next stage is aerobic decomposition, which further reduces the organic matter and produces brownish water. They used water this for irrigation, but as I understand it the water isn't ideal, so they are replacing this system with a new membrane filtration system that Roberto Serralles was pretty proud of.

    That and other systems are in development, but some of the development has been delayed due to a significant business change. You'll learn why in tomorrow's post.

  • Casa Noble Distillery Visit

    Way back in February I took a quick trip to Mexico to visit the distillery La Cofradia, where they make Casa Noble tequila. They make other brands there too, but I was there as the guest of their flagship brand Casa Noble.

    A Beautiful Distillery

    La Cofradia is located about a mile outside of the town of Tequila in the Lowlands of Mexico about 45 minutes outside Guadalajara. In Mexico a few distilleries cultivate a garden-like environment but here they take it to another level. There is a central courtyard with trees, a duck pond, a little cafe, and a set of four cottages where visitors like me can stay. 

    La cofradia sign2_tn

    Casa Noble Tequila Production

    Casa Noble is a certified organic 100% agave tequila. In order to be organicaly certified you need to prove that the land has been organically farmed and not had chemicals used on it for a certain number of years. Casa Noble avoided that problem by purchasing virgin land in Nayarit and planting fresh agave there. Nayarit is one of the five states where it is legal to grow agave, though nearly all of it comes from the state of Jalisco where the distillery is located.

    Thus Casa Noble uses estate-grown agave. This is a growing trend in the tequila industry; producers owning or renting the agave fields so they can control the both the care and harvest of it, but also the price, avoiding the dramatic gluts and shortages of agave in the industry as a result of its long, 6-11 year growing cycle.

    Casa Noble jimador5_tn
    (Agave pina (pineapple))

    The fields in Nayarit are at an elevation of about 4000 feet, higher than some of the Highlands. Yet the agaves I saw at the distillery were much smaller than Highland agave I've seen. Those are often 200 pounds compared with the 110 pound or so average at Casa Noble (and thus only had to be split in half before baking; some Highland producers split theirs into quarters). They purposefully chose an isolated location for their fields, because they are organic: they wouldn't want airborne agave diseases to spread to their fields.

    After harvest, the agave pinas are brought to the distillery where they'll be baked, shredded, fermented, and distilled. Baking converts the complex sugars in the agave into simpler, fermentable sugars.

    Agave fibers1 Casa Noble_tn
    (Closeup of piece of agave. You can see the fibers. The sugars are stored between these fibers which is why agave is shredded after baking to release them.)

    Baking and Shredding

    La Cofradia has 5 hornos (ovens), 3 large 40-ton ones and 2 smaller 20-ton ones. The agave is steam baked for 36-38 hours. Then it cools before the next step. They hasten the cooling process by using large fans blowing through the two sides of the oven.

    Ovens Casa Noble distillery_tn

    When agave is cooking with steam, the first water than runs off the bottom is called "bitter honey" and it is discarded. The next mass of water is called the "oven honey" and this is collected. We sampled this water- its sweet, watery, and has a vinegar note to it. (David Yan, Marketing Director there, says he's used a refined version of this as a vinegrette on salads.)

    Baked agave Casa Noble distillery2_tn
    (Baked agave.)

    After baking the agave is shredded to expose the fermentable sugars that can be washed out and fermented. At La Cofradia they have a unique system: First the baked agave pinas are put through a sort of wood chipper (not a roller mill) with water. This water is collected and they call it the "fat extraction."

    Next the chipped agave goes into a two "extractors" that are shaped like horizontal metal tubes. The first part of the extractor is like a corkscrew that compresses the fibers in the agave. Then it passes through to a set of paddles on a central axis that spins the agave fibers outward and washes them with water.  Apparently this helps separate the fibers without neccesarily shredding them.

    Extractor diagram
    (Diagram of extractor from my notes.)

    Fermenting and Distilling

    Now, onto fermentation. They ferment the combination of the oven honey, fat extraction, and agave juice from the extractors. Yeast is added that feeds on the fermentable sugars and converts it into alcohol plus CO2. While filling the fermentation vats, they bubble air into the tank, which they say makes the yeast reproduce more. This increases their alcohol conversion by an extra 1-2%.

    Agave juice about to be fermented Casa Noble distillery_tn
    (Ready for fermentation.)

    After fermentation (3-5 days, depending on the time of year), the yeast has died and the juice is called "mosto muerto." Now it's time to concentrate the alcohol through distillation.

    At La Cofradia they have large and small stills for the first and second/third distillations. The first, large stillas are called "destroyers" and their job is to get rid of most of the heads and tails.The resultant spirit is 22% alcohol.

    Large and small stills Casa Noble distillery_tn
    (Destroyer stills closer, smaller stills further away.)

    The smaller stills are used for both a second and third distillation that refine the spirit. Though the first distillation cuts most of the heads and tails, there are smaller cuts on the second and third distillations. Both bring the alcohol to 55% ABV. (For most of the other brands that are produced at La Cofradia, they distill only twice. As this is the flagship brand they refine it more.)

    After distillation (or, in the case of the aged tequilas, after aging) the tequila is filtered through micro-cellulose fibers and diluted to proof. The blanco (only?) is oxygenated before bottling for 8-12 hours.

    Aging and Tasting

    The barrels for aging Casa Noble come from the Taransaud cooperage in France. They're new French oak with a light #1 char, and nobody else in Mexico uses these barrels.The tequila goes into the casks at 55% ABV from the still (not watered down before barreling).

    French oak barrels casa noble distillery2_tn
    (New French oak barrels.)

    Interestingly, the tequila destined to be anejo (minimum 1 year aging) goes into new casks. The reposado (2 months to 1 year aging) goes into refilled caks. (More often, brands will use newer casks for reposado tequilas and older ones for anejo so that the wood affects the spirit more in a shorter time for the reposado.) They refill these casks for reposado 7-8 times.

    Cristal/Blanco: This tastes of nickel and minerals, white and red pepper, and "agave sticks" according to my tasting notes.

    Reposado: The reposado is aged for 364 days, the maximum amount before it would be in the anejo category. Reposado is aged in all 228-liter barrels. My tasting notes were: Boo-berry, strawberry cream popsicle, and white flowers.

    Michael B Dougherty casa noble3_tn
    (Tasting.)

    Anejo: Here's where Casa Noble separates itself from the pack yet again. Though all barrels are new French oak from Taransaud, they actually use three different sizes of barrels: 114 liter, 228 liter (about the size of bourbon barrels), and 350 liter barrels. These are blended together to create the anejo.

    The anejo is aged for 2 years. (Anejo is aged a minimum of one year. Extra-anejo starts at three years.) You can definitely taste all three of the below flavor profiles in the anejo.

    We were given the opportunity to taste tequila aged in each of the three sizes of barrels, each of them for a little under two years.

    114 liter: bitter wood, used peanut oil
    228 liter: fruit, dusty Boo-Berry, most similar to the reposado
    350 liter: floral, strawberry juice, light

    Now, besides Casa Noble, I can only think of one other set of brands that ages their spirit in similar casks of different sizes: Jim Beam. Laphroaig and Ardmore both do "quarter cask" programs.

    So, Wow.

    This is a distillery that uses traditional methods in many ways (stone ovens, gentle agave processing) yet has built their system from the ground up (new agave fields, agave processing methods, distillation, aging). And it's all done in a lovely setting to which I'd love to return someday.

    Casa noble hotel5_tn

     

  • Angostura Rums Distillery Visit

    In my last post I talked about the history and production of Angostura Bitters. In this one I'll talk about the history and production of Angostura Rums. I visited the distillery on Trinidad in March 2011.

    History of Angostura Rums

    The House of Angostura was in the bitters business since 1824, but didn't enter the rum business until after their move to the island of Trinidad in 1875. At first they were dealing with bulk rums rather than distilling their own, but in 1945 they purchased their own distillery. It wasn't until the 1960s that the profits from rum outsold those of bitters. In 1973 they purchased the Fernandes Distillery located next door and incorporated those brands (including Vat19) into their production.

    According to the film we watched at the distillery, in 1991 they had a production capacity of 22 million liters of alcohol per year. According to their website, it's now 50 million liters. Wow! The distillery takes up 20 acres of land. They make both their own brands, rum for other people, and sell bulk rum. More on the other brands later.

    Column still Angostura Distillery Trinidad5_tn

    Production of Angostura Rums

    Currently all the products are made on enormous column stills. They say they've been experimenting with some pot still stuff, but they're not making anything yet.

    Column still Angostura Distillery Trinidad10_tn

    No sugar has been produced on the island since 2003, so all the molasses to make these rums is purchased on the open market. (10Cane, which is also made on Trinidad but I don't believe at this distillery, uses some fresh local sugar cane juice in their rum blend.) We tastes molasses off the grate where it is poured into the system- it reminded me of old-style black licorice.

    Molasses grate Angostura Distillery Trinidad4_tn
    (Grate through which molasses is poured.)

    For different rum products made at the distillery they use different strains of yeast. Their barrels are ex-bourbon barrels. These are reused to age rum three times before they're discarded or recycled. We weren't allowed to enter the aging warehouse as they said it's a bonded property. From outside, it didn't look nearly big enough to age all the rum produced here, but they said it's their only aging warehouse it turns out they have five other aging warehouses also.

    Aging warehouse Angostura Distillery Trinidad3_tn

    For further reading, I suggest Ed Hamilton's write up on MinistryOfRum.com. 

    The Line of Rums

    After the distillery tour we did a tasting of some of the rums with Master Distiller Jean Georges. Oh, by the way, the line of Angostura rums is finally coming to the US soon, and they are tasty. 

    Bartender group Angostura9_tn

    The 3-year reminded me (keep in mind my tasting notes aren't supposed to make sense to anyone but me) of the insides under-ripe banana peels, with a soft creaminess that wasn't too vanilla-y. 

    The 5-year, interestingly, is actually filtered to remove some of its color. It has the caramel-vanilla notes you'd expect from a rum of this age, but with a nice fuzzy texture. I was also picking up a lot of notes of liquid limestone. The finish had some mint/oregano spice to it and it was just a touch tannic. 

    Tasting jean georges angostura distillery trinidad2_tn

    The 7-year rum is actually the 5-year rum which is blended and then put back into casks to marry for 2 years. The nose is all warm caramel apple and cheesecake pie crust on this one, with a spicier mouth with notes of peppermint. It's also oily in texture and slightly ashy. 

    One thing Jean Georges said about all of their rums is that they have a short finish. "None of our spirits overstay their welcome. They do their thing and move on, leaving you to want another sip."

    Tasting jean georges angostura distillery trinidad4_tn

    I am not sure if their "single barrel" is coming to the US or not, but I enjoyed drinking that during my visit. Most of the time I drank that or the 7-year-old. When I wanted a mixer, I'd mix it with their soft drink Lemon Lime & Bitters, locally known as LLB. (Note to Angostura: you should consider bringing this to the US also in select markets.)

    Angostura also produces Zaya rum, The Kraken spiced rum (according to MinistryOfRum), Vat 19, and White Oak (which is very popular in Trinidad).

     

  • The History and Production of Angostura Bitters

    In March I visited the Angostura distillery in Port of Spain, Trinidad. They make not only Angostura Bitters here but also the line of Angostura rums and rums for several other brands. In this post, I'll focus on the bitters. 

    Bartender group Angostura3_tn

    The History of Angostura Bitters

    Angostura Bitters were created in 1824 by Dr. Johann Siegert. They were originally called "Dr. Siegert's Aromatic Bitters" and later renamed Angostura Bitters. (The folks from The Bitter Truth Bitters have some interesting information about a lawsuit over the name "Angostura" between these bitters and Abbott's Bitters.) 

    Old bitters bottle Angostura Distillery Museum_tn
    (One of the other Angostura Bitters bottles from around the world on display at the museum.)

    The bitters were created for tropical stomach ailments in Venezuela, as Dr. Siegert was the Surgeon General of Simon Bolivar's army.  In fact the town of Angostura is now called Ciudad Bolivar. The bitters were first exported to England in 1830.

    Simon Bolivar Angostura Distillery Museum_tn
    (Simon Bolivar)

    According to this good history on Angostura's website, Siegert's son exhibited the bitters in England in 1862 where they were mixed with gin. Thus the Pink Gin was born.  

    Ango pink rum3 Angostura Distillery Museum_tn
    (Angostura used to produce Pink Rum – rum laced with Angostura Bitters.)

    After Dr. Siegert died in 1870, his sons relocated the business from the politically unstable Venezuela to Trinidad in 1875. The company was renamed Angostura Bitters in 1904. Sometime shortly after this,  the son in charge of Angostura lost all of his money in bad business deals and Angostura was taken by his creditors.

    Why is the Angostura Bitters Label Too Big for the Bottle?

    For a competition of some sort, one brother designed the bottle and another brother designed the label. By the time they figured out they should have consulted each other on the size of each, it was too late to change. On the advice of a judge in the contest, they kept it as their signature. Here, our tour guide does a better job of explaining it in this 1-minute video.

     

    How Are Angostura Bitters Produced? 

    The secret ingredients for the bitters are shipped from wherever they come from to England. There the ingredients are put into coded bags and shipped to Trinidad. I believe they said they have a long-standing arrangement with customs that the bags are not inspected when they arrive in Trinidad to maintain their secret.  

    At the distillery, there are five people known as "manufacturers" who prepare the ingredients. They weigh out the relative quantities of each in a room known as the Sanctuary. The ingredients are then dropped into a crusher that crushes them all together as they fall into the room below – the Bitters Room. 

    At the base of the crusher are carts that hold the ingredients. We weren't allowed to take pictures in the room due to the high-proof alcohol vapors (but later did of the bartenders there), but we did get to peak into the crushed herbs. I remember seeing largish chunks of something that looked like gum arabic, and a lot of rice-sized grey grains about the size of lavender seeds, though I doubt they were because there was a lot of them. (There you go: gum arabic and lavender- make your own Angostura at home 🙂 )

    The crushed herbs then go into a "percolator" tank with 97% alcohol to extract their flavor.  After this infusion is done, the liquid is then transferred to another tank where brown sugar and caramel color are added. Then the liquid is transferred again and distilled water is added to bring them down to the 44.7% alcohol level for bottling. 

    This is all done in a relatively small room with a bunch of tanks in it. It's impressive that the world's supply of Angostura Bitters is made here. 

    Bartender group Angostura5_tn

    Later that day, they did publicity shots with the bartenders in the Bitters Room. They let the professional photographers take photos and let me take them without flash. As you can see the bitters tanks have the bottle labels on them. Except in this case, they actually fit. 

  • Jameson Irish Whiskey Distillery Visit

    In early February I visited the Jameson Irish Whiskey distillery – actually two of them.

    The original Jameson distillery is in Dublin, but it is no longer made there. In 1971 it moved to the Midleton distillery in Cork. The reason is because in the late 1960's Irish Distillers was formed, a merger of Jameson, Powers, and Cork distilleries.

    In Dublin there is a visitors' center and restaurant. We went there first. I've got to admit, they did a really good job making a non-working distillery look working, using dioramas and original distillery parts but with fake ingredients pumping through them.

    Old jameson distilleryoutside_tn

    Old jameson distillery bar2_tn

    Old jameson distillery mash tun_tn

    The next day we went to the new distillery in Cork. But actually it's the new-new distillery, located next to the old one.

    Jameson distillery cork2_tn

    Jameson distillery cork3_tn

    Here we skipped the typical tour in favor of an in-depth one. 

    Jameson Fun Facts

    • Triple-distilled, as opposed to most scotch's twice-distilled
    • The old pot still here is gargantuan, probably one of the largest in the world. That is no longer used in favor of two wash stills half the size- that are still pretty huge.
    • All of the pot-still whisky made here is made on the same four stills: two wash stills, 1 feints still, and one spirit still
    • There are also several column stills as Jameson is blended whiskey.
    • Redbreast (available in US) and Green Spot (not) are all pot-still whiskeys.
    • They also make Middleton, Powers, and Paddy here, plus a couple other brands
    • They distill Tullamore Dew here under contract
    • Most Jameson uses ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks. Some (Rarest Reserve) uses ex-port barrels
    • Sherry butts are prepared by putting oloroso sherry (that has already aged the minimum of three years to be called sherry) into new casks for two years to prepare them.
    • Their pot-still spirit is a combination of malted and unmalted barley. If it's all pot-still whiskey, it is called "Irish pot still." Bushmills is "Irish malt" as it uses all malted barley.
    • They don't make a big deal about yeast strains here – use a "standard distilling yeast"
    • We nosed 100% malted distillate vs. malt/unmalt blend. The malted smelled more fruity and esthery than the blend
    • Due to the weather, there isn't a great temperature variation in the barrel warehouses, and only 2% angel's share per year
    • Jameson and Jameson 12 have opposite ratios of pot to column distilled spirit in them, though they don't say the ratios.
    • Jameson 18 tastes like green caramel apples
    • Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve tastes like the inside of banana peels, coconut flakes, pineapple gum arabic. It is the yumz.
    • Only before 1800 was Irish whisky peated, and much of that would have been poteen rather than whisky. Around 1800 large-scale production became legal in Ireland and everyone moved to using coal rather than peat. So really in modern Irish whisky making there is no tradition of peating.

      Jameson distillery cork cooperage13_tn

    Jameson distillery cork warehouse2_tn

    Jameson distillery cork warehouse13_tn

  • Chartreuse Secrets

    Some friends who meditate told me about the movie Into Great Silence, which follows the Carthusian monks of the Grande Chartreuse in the French Alps. As I barely stop talking you can bet they weren't telling me about its depiction of the silent lifestyle of the monks as something of interest, but because there is footage of them making the famous liqueur Chartreuse.

    Into great silence poster

     

    So I rented the movie and the bonus disc on Netflix. I fell asleep watching the main disc (twice!) and didn't see anything about the liqueur. But on the bonus disc, which you can rent separately and skip all the chanting, there is about ten minutes focusing on making Chartreuse.

    In it, a monk goes about weighing dried herbs. You can see about four of them but I couldn't identify them. It was a combination of dried leaves, flowers, some seed stuff, and some roots. If I had the time I'd do screen caps and we'd play "guess the herb."

    Chartreuse_Verte_70cl The monk then grinds them together and places them into a sack. He then hands them off to the distillery where other people distil them. I'm assuming much of the secret of Chartreuse comes from this combination of herbs, roots, bark, etc. that is delivered to the distillers already ground up so they can't guess what the components are.

    The monk interviewed in the story says there are 130 plants used to make Chartreuse but, "There is no need to seek to know more," about the production, because they aren't telling.

    However, the film then goes on to reveal more: The ground plants are infused in alcohol, water is added, then this is distilled. The distillate, which would be clear at that point, then undergoes seven or eight macerations with more plants that give it its characteristic color.

    I believe they said it takes a month to make a batch of Chartreuse. No wonder the stuff is expensive.

    The liquid is then sent to the cellar, where it ages first in large vats, then in smaller ones. The liquids are then reblended and sold.

    I know of a few people who have visited the Chartreuse facility but apparently you don't get to see the monks; just the aging vats. I'm not sure what else, but I do still want to go in person one day. This film was a little peek behind the curtain to see what happens before it goes into the barrel.

  • Tequila Distillery Visit: Patron

    In November I visited seven tequila distilleries in Mexico. Here are some pictures and notes from my visit to the Patron distillery in the town of Atotonilco.

    Patron tequila distillery_tn(The distillery is on a huge plot of land. It's a huge distillery. This is the front gate.)

    Hacienda patron tequila distillery2_tn
    (This is the hacienda, which is the center of the distillery. Nice place.)

    Roller mill patron tequila distillery_tn
    (This is agave going in to the rollermill. Patron is 50% rollermill agave and 50% tahona agave.)

    Tahona agave wooden fermentionation tanks patron tequila distillery_tn
    (Fermenting tahona agave. Tahona agave ferments and is distilled with the fibers.)

    Composting machines patron tequila distillery_tn
    (Outside the distillery they prepare the spent agave to be fertilizer.)

    Aging casks patron tequila distillery_tn
    (They use a mix of barrels for Patron.)

    • The distillery is actually 12 distilleries operating independently. 
    • Most of the agave comes from the highlands
    • They recycle the first agave juice out of the ovens, don't use it for fermentation
    • Ferment in pine wood, not stainless
    • Have unusual stills designed by master distiller
    • Tahona agave takes 2 hours to crush
    • Patron silver is 75% of sales, reposado accounts for 10 percent and anejo accounts for 15
  • Tequila Distillery Visit: Don Julio

    In November I visited seven tequila distilleries in Mexico. Here are some pictures and notes from my visit to the Don Julio distillery in the town of Atotonilco.

    Cutting agave tequila don julio distillery_tn
    (Cutting up the pinas before baking.)

    Agave pinas tequila don julio distillery_tn
    (Now when I see pinas, I get thirsty.)

    Fermenting agave juice tequila don julio distillery_tn
    (Fermenting agave.)

    Stainless stills with copper inside tequila don julio distillery_tn
    (Stainless steel pot stills.)

    Our team's shots luxury drop contest tequila don julio distillery_tn
    (We had a cocktail contest after the distillery visit. My team of writers won, of course.)

    • Don Julio uses all estate-grown agaves
    • Has a widerspacing between agaves than average
    • They have 18 furnaces, each of which holds 25 tons
    • Fermentation takes 24-30 hours
    • Their agave is larger than industry standards, with a higher sugar content
    • Inside the stainless steel stills is a copper coil
  • Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Williams & Humbert

    In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Williams & Humbert. 

    Bodegas williams and humbert12_tn
    (The bodega is absolutely enormous.)

    Bodegas williams and humbert horse show5_tn
    (There's a horse show inside the bodega for visitors.)

    Bodegas williams and humbert eonologist2_tn
    (For barrel tasting, the venenciador (in this case, the chief oenologist) inserts the venencia into the barrel to pull out a cup of liquid, then pours above a glass to aerate.)

    Bodegas williams and humbert17_tn
    (From a high perch in the bodega, you can see nearly the whole thing. Center in the picture is a tour group.)

     

    • They make Dry Sack – actually a medium sweetness sherry
    • Huge tourist visitor center- enter through the bodega and go to the horse show
    • Brandy de Jerez is very popular in the Philippines
    • Bowmore 1964 was aged in their casks
    • Macallan new casks prepared here
    •     New wood with aged sherry added to them
    •     The sherry is not sold afterward- too woody
    • Fino was first developed in an industrial way in the 1920’s and 30’s
    • Dry sack is the top selling medium sweet sherry in the world. 
    •     Tio Pepe is top selling fino. (Not made here.)
    •     Harvey’s Bristol Cream is the top cream. (Not made here.)
    • Dry sack is blended with PX right at the beginning  before it enters the solera system
    • 15 year oloroso is very yummy. 
    • I also liked Gran Dulque de Alba XO
    • They make the Dos Maderas rums
    • Liked the VORS amontillado, VOS Palo Cortado