Category: San Francisco

  • Rickhouse: A First Look

    Yesterday I stopped in to Rickhouse, the new bar by the folks from Bourbon & Branch, Swig, Anu, and the liquor store Cask.

    The bar is located at 246 Kearny Street at the site of the long-time gay bar Ginger's Trois. (I believe Anu was built where Ginger's Too was once located.)  Ginger's was a small space with a sunken bar and a tiny seating area in the back, all with a unique art deco design.

    Rickhouse couldn't be more different. They completely remodeled the space and annexed the old storage room and some unused restrooms in the back. Now you enter on a long vertical room with a bar running down one side. In the back of the front room is a small balcony beneath a newly-installed skylight that apparently gets direct overhead light for just an hour or so per day. The balcony is open on either side, facing the front and back rooms.

    Rickhouse2

    The back room is situated like a "T" to the front room, and can be partitioned off with large sliding wood doors. The bar for this room is on the back left, and it smaller than the one in the front.

    When the space is open, there will be low seats and small tables throughout both rooms and the balcony. However, unlike B&B there will not be reserved seating. (There will be cocktail servers though to take the crush off the front bar.) The furniture is all pretty mobile, so depending on the number of people and the time of the day, they'll move the furniture around to accommodate everyone.

    The walls, ceilings, and floors are all made of wood. I think it's nearly all reclaimed wood- most of it from barrel staves used in layers on the ceiling (similar to the ceiling at Cask), some of it from a construction project next door, and some from a former nunnery where they distilled whiskey during prohibition. Former bourbon barrels are also used as decoration in the space, and the chandeliers are made from the metal bands that bind barrels together. One exposed brick wall opposite the front bar apparently has some of the char left from the 1906 fire.

    Rickhouse1

    The  cocktail menu I've been asked not to say too much about just yet, but it has very little overlap with the drink menu from Bourbon & Branch.

    The bar is not yet open to the public and won't be fully open for about three weeks after they finish final construction touches, then allow a healthy soft-opening period for the bartenders and servers to become familiar with the new menu.

    Rickhouse is looking really, really good.

    Rickhousefront

  • The Intercontinental Cocktails of Charles H. Baker

    I wrote a story in this weekend's San Francisco Chronicle about Charles H. Baker's cocktails and their popularity, centering around the program at Heaven's Dog in San Francisco.

    "A hazy memory of a night in Havana during the unpleasantnesses of
    1933, when each swallow was punctuated with bombs going off on the
    Prado…"

    erik adkins read charles h baker's the gentlemans' companion at heaven's dog in san francisco This line by Charles H. Baker Jr. introduces not an account of Cuban
    rebellion but the cocktail Remember the Maine, which he was drinking
    there while it took place. Baker wrote about drinks from his travels
    around the world in the early 1900s, mostly during Prohibition, when
    the drinking in the United States wasn't legal – or very good.

    Other drinks in Baker's two-volume "The Gentleman's Companion" are
    introduced from such ports of call as Beijing, Monte Carlo and Bombay
    (now Mumbai), ripe with mentions of princes, peacocks, cruises up the
    Nile and hanging out with Hemingway.

    Bartenders in particular have latched on to Baker as a patron saint
    of good living, and his cocktails and quotes from his writings are both
    appearing on drink menus.

    "I've always thought that when you have a drink there's so much that
    comes with it: your friends, who you're with, the time of the day,"
    says Erik Adkins, general manager of Heaven's Dog in SoMa. "And (Baker)
    captured all that.."

    But for all the excitement about Baker's cocktails, they share an unfortunate common trait.

    "I think the recipes mostly need a lot of work," says Adkins.

    read the rest of the story here.

    In the story I also mentioned the forthcoming coffee/cocktail bar Fort Defiance, in Brooklyn, that should be opening later this month. But that's not the only bar to put Baker back on the menu:

    The Brooklyn bar Clover Club dedicated a small section of the menu to what owner Julie Reiner says are Baker’s best cocktails this winter, including the Remember the Maine.

    In Portland, Ore., the bar Beaker and Flask, named for the subtitle of one volume of “Gentleman’s Companion,” is set to open. Owner Kevin Ludwig says he’ll be featuring Baker drinks on the menu, though not exclusively.

    In Amsterdam, speakeasy-style bar door 74 recently offered several pages of Baker drinks, with the menu letterhead mimicking the Baker’s own.

    Baker's globe-hopping cocktail book is now helping those cocktails hop back around the world.

    Bakerbookfromchron
  • San Francisco Cocktails, Past and Present

    It's unusual for me to miss days of blogging, but I've been busy writing up some stuff for SF Cocktail Week. Check out these pieces I wrote and let me know if I'm missing anything big (or am completely full of beans).

    San Francisco's Historic Cocktails and Barbary Coast Saloons

    Connecting the Past to the Present: Modern Cocktails in San Francisco

  • How Sweetened It Is

    Here's the second of my two stories in the San Francisco Chronicle this weekend.

    Codydrink


    Spirits: Bartenders find new ways to sweeten the deal


    Camper English, Special to The Chronicle
    Friday, April 10, 2009

    Nearly all cocktails contain a sweetening agent, the simplest of which is raw sugar or simple syrup. Other, newer options include ginger, elderflower, and blood orange liqueurs, floral sugar syrups, fresh grenadine, flavored honey, and syrups made from ingredients like agave and gum Arabic.

    As usual, San Francisco bartenders are not satisfied with the selection.

    Read the story here.

  • Here is that Drink I was Talking About

    You know how I was blogging about that great new drink that's unavailable because there wasn't enough Hangar One chipotle vodka to put it on the menu?

    Well, they heard the outcry, they delivered more chipotle, and now the Escondido Romano is on the menu at Nopa for all to enjoy as of yesterday. Hooray! Now go order 70 of them so I don't look like a jerk.

    Alcademics: Bringing positive change to drink menus since 2009.

  • Camper’s Clampers Bonus: Plaque Pics

    As a bonus supplement to my story in the SF Chronicle on E Clampus Vitus, here are pictures I took of the historic plaques located around SF. I didn't get a picture of the Anchor Brewing or Molloy's Tavern in Colma, but here are the other four.

    SF Brewing Cos
    Old Ship Saloon PlaqueS
    Hotaling BuildingS
    PiscopunchS

    Bonus: Bummer and Lazarus plaque.

    Bummer and lazarusS

  • Camper Meets the Clampers

    Though we like to think the interest in classic cocktails is a recent one, the members of E Clampus Vitus have been celebrating drink history since the year 5937.

    That date – 1932 in our years – corresponds with the rebirth of an organization commonly called ECV, or the Clampers, whose motto, Credo Quia Absurdum, translates (though not exactly) into "I believe because it is absurd."

    Here is the rest of this story I wrote in today's San Francisco Chronicle about E Camplus Vitus, a drinking historical society or a historical drinking society- they can't decide which.

    Clampers1

  • Bar Stars of SF

    The SF Chronicle's Bar Stars 2009 feature just came out, and the introduction to the winners is here.

    The 2009 Bar Stars are:

    I did the write-up of Thad Vogler.

    I think the combination of profiles came out really terrific. I didn't know who the other chosen Bar Stars were or who was writing about them (I assume they were selected by my editor- it was all very top-secret), but in the end the stories reflect the different styles of the bartenders: Brooke creating a new drink of the day, Reza using food flavors, Marco's geekery, Thad's back-to-nature approach, and Cate Whalen's homemade creations.

    So congrats to everybody.

  • Bay Area Distillers Messing with Agave

    Hey, it's double-bonus tequila Friday here at Alcademics!

    I just learned that my Chronicle story on Bay Area distillers and business owners making tequila here or in Mexico went live today. The print story should be out this Sunday, in the newly-merged Food & Wine sections.

    Tequilatime copy

    Read the story here.

    Highlights

    • Julio Bermejo of Tommy's Mexican Restaurant is building his own distillery in Mexico.
    • Miles and Marko Karakasevic of Charbay Distillery and Winery made tequila in Mexico at the famous La Altena distillery.
    • Lance Winters and Jorg Rupf shipped agave to Alameda and distilled it there. This lead to a series of unusual efforts.

    Each distiller is taking an entirely different approach to the process.

    Go read it, there are some juicy news items in there.

  • Drinking by Degree

    Check out my story in the February issue of San Francisco Magazine. It's about tasting clubs around the city where you earn prizes or a degree by working your way through the menu.

    TresAgavesfull

    I focus on the Tequila Passport program at Tres Agaves, but also mention programs at Tommy's Mexican Restaurant, Forbidden Island, and Barclay's in Oakland.

    Read the story here.