I spoke with Martini and Rossi’s Master Blender, Giuseppe “Beppe” Musso, and Senior Master Herbalist Ivano Tonutti to learn how they made their new nonalcoholic vermouths.
It was fascinating!
The story is now live at AlcoholProfessor.com.
Category: vermouth
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All the Cocktail and Drink Books from 2020 for Reading or Gifting
It's time for the annual Alcademics drink book round-up! Below are all the books that have come to my attention in 2020. I don't follow wine/beer closely so there are only a few in that section.
The links below are to Amazon and to Bookshop.org. If you buy stuff after clicking on a link, I may receive a referral fee, thanks! If there is just one link, that's to Amazon as I only started using Bookshop mid-way through the year – you can always click over to Bookshop and search there. Bookshop.org allows you to order from small bookstores directly, or buy from a general fund that supports independent bookstores.
Whiskey Books
Whiskey Master Class: The Ultimate Guide to Understanding Scotch, Bourbon, Rye, and More by Lew BrysonThe Definitive Guide to Canadian Distilleries: The Portable Expert to Over 200 Distilleries and the Spirits they Make (From Absinthe to Whisky, and Everything in Between) by Davin de Kergommeaux and Blair Phillips
Which Fork Do I Use with My Bourbon?: Setting the Table for Tastings, Food Pairings, Dinners, and Cocktail Parties by Peggy Noe Stevens and Susan Reigler
Whisky, it's not rocket science by Mickael Guidot
Canadian Spirits: The Essential Cross-Country Guide to Distilleries, Their Spirits, and Where to Imbibe Them by Stephen Beaumont and Christine Sismondo
Scotch: A Complete Introduction to Scotland’s Whiskies by Margarett Waterbury buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]The Curious Bartender’s Guide to Malt, Bourbon & Rye Whiskies by Tristan Stephenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]
The Sazerac by Tim McNally [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Beginner's Guide to Whiskey: Traditions, Types, and Tastes of the Ultimate Spirit by Sam Green [Amazon][Bookshop]
The Terroir of Whiskey: A Distiller's Journey Into the Flavor of Place by Rob Arnold [Amazon][Bookshop]
American Spirit: Wild Turkey Bourbon from Ripy to Russell by David Jennings [Amazon][Bookshop]
Other Spirits: Gin, Rum
Gin: How to Drink it: 125 Gins, 4 Ways by Dave Broom [Amazon] The Curious Bartender’s Guide to Rum by Tristan Stephenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Brand Books
Seedlip Cocktails: 100 Delicious Nonalcoholic Recipes from Seedlip & The World's Best Bars by Seedlip
Chartreuse, The Liqueur [CocktailKingdom]A Long Stride: The Story of the World's No. 1 Scotch Whisky by Nicholas Morgan buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]
Science Food and Drink Books
Science and Cooking: Physics Meets Food, From Homemade to Haute Cuisine by Michael Brenner, Pia Sörensen, David Weitz [Amazon][Bookshop]Nose Dive: A Field Guide to the World's Smells by Harold McGee: [Amazon][Bookshop]
The Flavor Equation: The Science of Great Cooking Explained in More Than 100 Essential Recipes by Nik Sharma [Amazon][Bookshop]
Beer, Wine, Vermouth, Sake, Fermentation
Beer: Taste the Evolution in 50 Styles by Natalya WatsonA Spirited Guide to Vermouth: An Aromatic Journey with Botanical Notes, Classic Cocktails and Elegant Recipes by Jack Adair Bevan
How to Make Hard Seltzer: Refreshing Recipes for Sparkling Libations by Chris Colby [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Wine, Unfiltered: Buying, Drinking, and Sharing Natural Wine by Katherine Clary [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Hugh Johnson s Pocket Wine Book by Hugh Johnson [Amazon]
The Wine Game by Zeren Wilson [Buy]
The Japanese Sake Bible: Everything You Need to Know About Great Sake (With Tasting Notes and Scores for Over 100 Top Brands) by Brian Ashcraft [Amazon][Bookshop]
Journey of Sake: Stories and Wisdom from an Ancient Tradition [Amazon]
Fermentation as Metaphor by Sandor Ellix Katz [Amazon] [Bookshop]
History BooksRabbinic Drinking: What Beverages Teach Us About Rabbinic Literature by Jordan D. Rosenblum
How to Drink: A Classical Guide to the Art of Imbibing (Ancient Wisdom for Modern Readers) by Vincent Obsopoeus [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Non-Alcoholic Drinks
How to Drink without Drinking: Celebratory alcohol-free drinks for any time of the day by Fiona Beckett [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Good Drinks: Alcohol-Free Recipes for When You're Not Drinking for Whatever Reason by Julia Bainbridge [Amazon] [Bookshop]FIZZ: A Beginners Guide to Making Natural, Non-Alcoholic Fermented Drinks
by Elise van Iterson and Barbara SerulusZero: A New Approach to Non-Alcoholic Drinks [Amazon] [The Aviary]
Bartending: Narrative and ProfessionalUnvarnished: A Gimlet-eyed Look at Life Behind the Bar by Eric Alperin and Deborah Stoll
Bartender as a Business: Building Agency from Craft by Jason Littrell [Amazon][Bookshop]
Botanical Focus and Witchcraft
Garden to Glass: Grow Your Drinks from the Ground Up by Mike WolfWild Remedies: How to Forage Healing Foods and Craft Your Own Herbal Medicine by Rosalee de la Forêt and Emily Han
WitchCraft Cocktails: 70 Seasonal Drinks Infused with Magic & Ritual by Julia Halina Hadas [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Potions, Elixirs & Brews: A modern witches' grimoire of drinkable spells by Anais Alexandre [buy on Bookshop ] [buy on Amazon]
Blackthorn's Botanical Brews: Herbal Potions, Magical Teas, and Spirited Libations by Amy Blackthorn [buy on Bookshop ] [buy on Amazon]
Cocktail Books
General/Classic/Historic Cocktail Books
Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails: Prohibition Centennial Edition: From the 1920 Pick-Me-Up to the Zombie and Beyond – 150+ Rediscovered Recipes … With a New Introduction and 66 New Recipes by Ted Haigh (Author)Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails by John deBary
Spirited: Cocktails from around the World by Adrienne Stillman [Amazon] [Bookshop]
The New Craft of the Cocktail: Everything You Need to Know to Think Like a Master Mixologist, with 500 Recipes by Dale DeGroff [Amazon] [Bookshop]
On the House: Over 100 Essential Tips and Recipes for the Home Bartender by Cider Mill Press buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]
Classic Cocktails by Brian D. Hoefling [Amazon][Bookshop]
Splash: Modern Classic Cocktails by Ivy Mix (Author), Whoo Kid [Amazon]
CO Specs: Recipes & Histories of Classic Cocktails by Cas Oh [Amazon]
Themed Cocktail Books
The Good Reverend's Guide to Infused Spirits: Alchemical Cocktails, Healing Elixirs, and Cleansing Solutions for the Home and Bar by Steven Grasse, Sonia Kurtz, Michael AlanCamp Cocktails: Easy, Fun, and Delicious Drinks for the Great Outdoors by Emily Vikre
Drinking with Chickens: Free-Range Cocktails for the Happiest Hour by Kate E. Richards
Easy Tiki: A Modern Revival with 60 Recipes by Chloe Frechette
Disco Cube Cocktails: 100+ innovative recipes for artful ice and drinks by Leslie Kirchhoff
Essential 3-Ingredient Cocktails: 75 Classic And Contemporary Drinks To Make At Home by Amy Traynor
Pink Gin: More than 30 pink-hued cocktails
Drink What You Want: The Subjective Guide to Making Objectively Delicious Cocktails.
Behind the Bar: 50 Cocktail Recipes from the World's Most Iconic Hotels by Alia Akkam [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Fizz: 80 Joyful Cocktails and Mocktails for Every Occasion by Olly Smith [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Beautiful Booze: Stylish Cocktails to Make at Home by Natalie Migliarini and James Stevenson [Amazon] [Bookshop]The Cocktail Dictionary: An A-Z of cocktail recipes, from Daiquiri and Negroni to Martini and Spritz by Henry Jeffreys [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Peaky Blinders Cocktail Book: 40 Cocktails Selected by The Shelby Company Ltd by Sandrine Houdre-Gregoire [Amazon] [Bookshop]
The Shaken and the Stirred: The Year's Work in Cocktail Culture (The Year's Work: Studies in Fan Culture and Cultural Theory) Edited by Stephen Schneider and Craig N. Owens [Amazon] [Bookshop]
T𝗵𝗲 𝗧𝗼𝗮𝘀𝘁 𝗼𝗳 𝘁𝗵𝗲 𝗥𝗲𝗺𝗼𝘁𝗲 𝗛𝗼𝘀𝘁𝘀 by Grade A Fancy Magazine [buy]
Star Trek Cocktails: A Stellar Compendium by Glenn Dakin buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]
Classy as Fuck Cocktails: 60+ Damn Good Recipes for All Occasions buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]
Shake Strain Done: Craft Cocktails at Home by J. M. Hirsch buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]
Tequila & Tacos: A Guide to Spirited Pairings by Katherine Cobbs buy on: [Amazon][Bookshop]
Queer Cocktails: 50 Cocktail Recipes Celebrating Gay Icons and Queer Culture by Lewis Laney [Bookshop]
Drinks on the Lanai: Cocktails, Mocktails And Cheesecake Inspired By The Golden Girls by Elouise Anders [Amazon][Bookshop]The Aviary: Summer Cocktails [The Aviary]
Give Me Liberty and Give Me a Drink!: 65 Cocktails to Protest America’s Most Outlandish Alcohol Laws by C. Jarrett Dieterle
Very Merry Cocktails: 50+ Festive Drinks for the Holiday Season by Jessica Strand [Amazon][Bookshop]
Winter Drinks: Over 75 recipes to warm the spirits including hot drinks, fortifying toddies, party cocktails and mocktails [Amazon][Bookshop]
Bar L.M. by Lindsay Matteson [etsy]
How to Drink Like a Royal by Albert W. A. Schmid [Amazon][Bookshop]
Have Yourself a Merry Little Cocktail: 80 Cheerful Tipples to Warm up Winter by Emma Stokes [Amazon][Bookshop]
Düngeonmeister: 75 Epic RPG Cocktail Recipes to Shake Up Your Campaign by Jef Aldrich, Jon Taylor [Amazon][Bookshop]
Drink Books Tied to Places
Distilled in Vermont: A History & Guide with Cocktail Recipes by Chris Maggiolo [Amazon] [Bookshop]The United States of Cocktails: Recipes, Tales, and Traditions from All 50 States (and the District of Columbia) by Brian Bartels [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Behind Bars: High Class Cocktails Inspired by Low Life Gangsters by Vincent Pollard [Amazon] [Bookshop]
Spirits of Latin America: A Celebration of Culture & Cocktails, with 100 Recipes from Leyenda & Beyond by Ivy Mix
Drinking French: The Iconic Cocktails, Apéritifs, and Café Traditions of France, with 160 Recipes by David Lebovitz
The Pikes Cocktail Book: Rock 'n' roll cocktails from one of the world's most iconic hotels by Dawn Hindle
Apotheke: Modern Medicinal Cocktails by Christopher Tierney, Erica Brod [Amazon][Bookshop]Drink-Culture Related Books
The Book of Ichigo Ichie: The Art of Making the Most of Every Moment, the Japanese Way by Héctor García and Francesc Miralles
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EU Regulations for Vermouth, Americanos, and Quinquinas
I've had to look up this information a few times so this blog post will make it easier for me to find this information in the future.
In the EU
Vermouth = fortified aromatized wine with artemisia (wormwood) species.
Americano = fortified aromatized wine with artemisia (wormwood) and gentian species.
Quinquina = fortified aromatized wine with quinine flavoring.
Bitter Vino = fortified aromatized wine with gentian species.
The Regulations are found here. The text of this section of aromatized wines is below.
SALES DENOMINATIONS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF AROMATISED WINE PRODUCTS
A. SALES DENOMINATIONS AND DESCRIPTIONS OF AROMATISED WINES
(1) Aromatised wine
Products complying with the definition set out in Article 3(2).
(2) Wine-based aperitif
Aromatised wine to which alcohol may have been added.
The use of the term ‘aperitif’ in this connection is without prejudice to its use to define products which do not fall
within the scope of this Regulation.
(3) Vermouth
Aromatised wine:
— to which alcohol has been added, and
— whose characteristic taste has been obtained by the use of appropriate substances of Artemisia species.
(4) Bitter aromatised wine
Aromatised wine with a characteristic bitter flavour to which alcohol has been added.
The sales denomination ‘bitter aromatised wine’ is followed by the name of the main bitter-flavouring substance.
The sales denomination ‘bitter aromatised wine’ may be supplemented or replaced by the following terms:
— ‘Quinquina wine’, whose main flavouring is natural quinine flavouring,
— ‘Bitter vino’, whose main flavouring is natural gentian flavouring and which has been coloured with authorised
yellow and/or red colour; the use of the word ‘bitter’ in this connection is without prejudice to its use to define
products which do not fall within the scope of this Regulation,
— ‘Americano’, where the flavouring is due to the presence of natural flavouring substances derived from wormwood
and gentian and which has been coloured with authorised yellow and/or red colours. -
A Visit to the Cocchi Vermouthery in Asti, Italy
Cocchi wines and vermouths are made in Asti, in the heart of Piedmont region of northwest Italy. I had a chance to visit the facilities this fall.
The company was founded in 1891 in Asti by Giulio Cocchi. He made flat, sparkling, and aromatized wines. Since 1978, the Cocchi company has been run by the Bava family. Our host was Roberto Bava, who is often seen around the global cocktail circuit at events like Tales of the Cocktail and Bar Convent Berlin.
Bava is currently the president of the Vermouth di Torino Institute and was part of the coalition of vermouth makers to get legal recognition for the Vermouth di Torino geographical indication (GI) in 2017. In order to qualify, the production and bottling must be in Piedmont, with alcohol between 16-22%, with Italian wine, artemisia absinthium and/or pontica also from Piedmont.
This is the entrance to the winery. Cocchi previously produced products like fernets, annisetts, and rababaros that were discontinued in the 1980s, along with vermouths I believe. But with the cocktail renaissance the vermouths came back into necessity.
They only use macerated (rather than distilled) botanicals in their products. They do extractions in groups- a few botanicals at a time that can be used in various products. We visited the botanical room, where I would have stayed all day if I could have.
We then went upstairs to the visitor's center where we did a tasting and I took pictures of the botanical descriptions, which I put in this post on A Guide to Botanicals Used in Cocchi Aromatized Wines & Vermouths.
When I got home, I found I also had this printed document with more botanical information:
Visitor's Center:
Cocchi Products
Cocchi Americano is an aromatized wine with gentian, cinchona bark, bitter orange, and wormwood. It is used (and was probably designed) for drinking with ice and soda water.
Cocchi Rosa is made from a red wine base with the same extracts as the bianco, but with additional ginger and rose petals.
Cocchi Vermouth Di Torino is a sweet vermouth with wormwood, cinchona, bitter orange, and rhubarb.
They also make Dopoteatro Vermouth Amaro, an "evening vermouth" with wormwood, a double dose of cinchona, rhubarb, quassia, and chiretta (which is sometimes called Indian gentian and tastes very much like gentian).
Barolo Chinato Cocchi contains barolo wine and cinchona bark (as you'd guess from the name), rhubarb, gentian, and cardamom.
In addition to their still and sparkling wines, they also make grappa and made one batch of brandy.
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All the Cocktail and Spirits Books Released in 2018, In Consideration for Gifting or Reading
It's the annual Alcademics drink book round-up! These are all the cocktails and spirits books that I know about published in 2018, with a couple of wine and beer books thrown in for good measure. It's over 60 books in total. Read them yourself or give 'em as gifts.
This year there appear to be less overall history books, and more women-centric books, whether history or not. Cocktail recipe books are all quite specific, with several that focus on theory and technique; and these overlap with books designed with the professional bartender in mind.
Get to reading.
Cocktail/Recipe Books
Julep: Southern Cocktails Refashioned by Alba Huerta and Marah Stets The One-Bottle Cocktail: More than 80 Recipes with Fresh Ingredients and a Single Spirit by Maggie Hoffman
Tequila Beyond Sunrise: Over 40 tequila and mezcal-based cocktails from around the world by Jesse Estes
Finding Mezcal: A Journey into the Liquid Soul of Mexico, with 40 Cocktails by Ron Cooper and Chantal Martineau
Wild Mocktails and Healthy Cocktails: Home-grown and foraged low-sugar recipes from the Midnight Apothecary by Lottie Muir
Infused Booze: Over 60 Batched Spririts and Liqueurs to Make at Home by Kathy Kordalis
Session Cocktails: Low-Alcohol Drinks for Any Occasion by Drew Lazor and Editors of PUNCH
The Cocktail Garden: Botanical Cocktails for Every Season by Ed Loveday and Adriana Picker
Booze & Vinyl: A Spirited Guide to Great Music and Mixed Drinks by André Darlington and Tenaya Darlington
Doctor's Orders: Over 50 inventive cocktails to cure, revive & enliven by Chris Edwards and Dave Tregenza
Cocktail Italiano: The Definitive Guide to Aperitivo: Drinks, Nibbles, and Tales of the Italian Riviera by Annette Joseph
Clean + Dirty Drinking: 100+ Recipes for Making Delicious Elixirs, With or Without Booze by Gabriella Mlynarczyk
Are You There God? It's Me, Margarita: More Cocktails with a Literary Twist (A Tequila Mockingbird Book) by Tim Federle
The Art & Craft of Coffee Cocktails: Over 80 recipes for mixing coffee and liquor by Jason Clark
Aperitif: A Spirited Guide to the Drinks, History and Culture of the Aperitif by Kate Hawkings
The Joy of Mixology, Revised and Updated Edition: The Consummate Guide to the Bartender's Craft by Gary Regan
The Dead Rabbit Mixology & Mayhem: The Story of John Morrissey and the World’s Best Cocktail Menu by Sean Muldoon and Jack McGarry
Nightcap: More than 40 Cocktails to Close Out Any Evening by Kara Newman
Be Your Own Bartender: A Surefire Guide to Finding (and Making) Your Perfect Cocktail by Carey Jones and John McCarthy
Cocktail Codex: Fundamentals, Formulas, Evolutions by Alex Day and Nick Fauchald
Winter Drinks: 70 Essential Cold-Weather Cocktails by Editors of PUNCH
Tequila: Shake, Muddle, Stir: Over 40 of the Best Cocktails for Tequila and Mezcal Lovers by Dan Jones
Pickle Juice: A Revolutionary Approach to Making Better Tasting Cocktails and Drinks by Florence Cherruault
The Mini Bar: 100 Essential Cocktail Recipes; 8 Notebook Set by Editors of PUNCH
The Curious Bartender Volume II: The New Testament of Cocktails by Tristan Stephenson
Glamorous Cocktails: Fashionable mixes from iconic London bars by William Yeoward
Prosecco Made Me Do It: 60 Seriously Sparkling Cocktails by Amy Zavatto
Rock Cocktails: 50 rock 'n' roll drinks recipes―from Gin Lizzy to Guns 'n' Rosés
Northern Hospitality with The Portland Hunt + Alpine Club: A Celebration of Cocktails, Cooking, and Coming Together by Andrew Volk and Briana Volk
The Aviary Cocktail Book by Grant Achatz, Micah Melton, Nick Kokonas, Allen and Sarah Hemberger.
The Cocktail Companion: A Guide to Cocktail History, Culture, Trivia and Favorite Drinks by Cheryl Charming
Drink London (London Guides) by Euan Ferguson
Beachbum Berry's Sippin' Safari: Tenth Anniversary Expanded Edition by Jeff Beachbum Berry
Wine Books
Wild Winemaking: Easy & Adventurous Recipes Going Beyond Grapes, Including Apple Champagne, Ginger–Green Tea Sake, Key Lime–Cayenne Wine, and 142 More by Richard W. Bender
Ten Grapes to Know: The Ten and Done Wine Guide by Catherine Fallis
Wine Food: New Adventures in Drinking and Cooking by Dana Frank and Andrea Slonecker
The Sommelier's Atlas of Taste: A Field Guide to the Great Wines of Europe by Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay
Prosecco Made Me Do It: 60 Seriously Sparkling Cocktails by Amy Zavatto
Spirit Books, Misc.
The Connoisseur’s Guide to Worldwide Spirits: Selecting and Savoring Whiskey, Vodka, Scotch, Rum, Tequila . . . and Everything Else (An Expert’s Guide … and Savoring Every Spirit in the World) by Richard Carleton Hacker
Tabletop Distilling: How to Make Spirits, Essences, and Essential Oils with Small Stills by Kai Möller
The Gin Dictionary by David T. Smith
The Book of Vermouth: A Bartender and a Winemaker Celebrate the World's Greatest Aperitif by Shaun Byrne and Gilles Lapalus
The Curious Bartender's Guide to Gin: How to appreciate gin from still to serve by Tristan Stephenson
Women-Centric Drink Books
Craft Cocktails by Val: Drinks Inspired by Hillary Rodham ClintonDrinking Like Ladies: 75 modern cocktails from the world's leading female bartenders; Includes toasts to extraordinary women in history by Misty Kalkofen and Kirsten Amann
Liberated Spirits: Two Women Who Battled Over Prohibition by Hugh Ambrose and John Schuttler
A Woman's Drink: Bold Recipes for Bold Women by Natalka Burian
Movers and Shakers: Women Making Waves in Spirits, Beer & Wine by Hope Ewing
Free the Tipple: Kickass Cocktails Inspired by Iconic Women
by Jennifer Croll (Author), Kelly Shami (Illustrator)History Books
A Short History of Drunkenness: How, Why, Where, and When Humankind Has Gotten Merry from the Stone Age to the Present by Mark Forsyth
A Thousand Thirsty Beaches: Smuggling Alcohol from Cuba to the South during Prohibition by Lisa Lindquist Dorr
Moonshine: A Celebration of America's Original Rebel Spirit by John Schlimm
A Drinkable Feast: A Cocktail Companion to 1920s Paris by Philip Greene
Beer, Mead, Cider
Mead: The Libations, Legends, and Lore of History's Oldest Drink by Fred Minnick
Will Travel for Beer: 101 Remarkable Journeys Every Beer Lover Should Experience by Stephen Beaumont
Beer: 150 Awesome Facts About Your Favorite Brew by Caroline West
Ciderology: From History and Heritage to the Craft Cider Revolution by Gabe Cook
The Craft Beer Dictionary: An A-Z of craft beer, from hop to glass by Richard Croasdale
Kitchen Brewing: A New, Easier and Quicker Way to Home Brew by Jakob Nielsen and Mikael Zetterberg
Bar, Drinking Culture, and Professional Books
Bars, Taverns, and Dives New Yorkers Love: Where to Go, What to Drink by John TebeauDrinking Distilled: A User's Manual by Jeffrey Morgenthaler
I'm Just Here for the Drinks: A Guide to Spirits, Drinking and More Than 100 Extraordinary Cocktails by Sother Teague
Hungover: The Morning After and One Man's Quest for the Cure by Shaughnessy Bishop-Stall
Allergen Awareness: A Chef's Perspective by Myron Keith Norman
Batched & Bottled by Max Venning
The Cocktail Bar: Notes for an Owner & Operator by Chall Gray
Whiskey Books
From Dram to Manhattan: Around the world in 40 whisky cocktails from Scotch to Bourbon by Jesse Estes
Hacking Whiskey: Smoking, Blending, Fat Washing, and Other Whiskey Experiments by Aaron Goldfarb
The Bourbon Bible by Eric Zandona
Whiskey America by Dominic Roskrow
Single Malt: A Guide to the Whiskies of Scotland: Includes Profiles, Ratings, and Tasting Notes for More Than 330 Expressions by Clay Risen
World's Best Whiskies:750 Unmissable Drams from Tain to Tokyo by Dominic Roskrow
Bourbon Justice: How Whiskey Law Shaped America by Brian F. Haara
Not enough books for you? Check out:
All the drink books that came out in 2017
All the Cocktails and Spirits Books Published in 2016 for Reading or Gifting
All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting
More Than 40 Drink Books Published in 2014 for Reading or Gifting
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Genepy Liqueur Versus Artemisia Genepi
When I was studying the various types of wormwood used in spirits earlier this year, I got a bit confused about Genepy/Genepi. All wormwood is a member of the artemisia genus. - Artemisia Absinthium = Grand Wormwood; used in absinthe
- Artemisia Pontica = Roman Wormwood; small absinthe; often used in vermouths
- Artemisia Vulgaris = Common Wormwood; mugwort; used in Herbsaint, vermouth, and other products
- Artemisia Genepi = Genepi, used in Genepy liqueurs
After laying that out, I came to learn that there is a difference between artemisia genepi and genepy liqueurs, thanks in large part to Stephen Gould of Golden Moon Distillery. He makes a genepi called Ex Gratia.
According to Gould and supporting evidence from elsewhere on the internet, Genepy liqueurs can be made from not just artemisia genepi, but basically any artemisia that's not grand wormwood; often several of them mixed together. Gould clarified a working definition of genepy liqueur for me in email:
Any liquor/liqueur made with any member of the artemisia family, except artemisia ab. (Grand wormwood) would be considered a Genepi … the exception being Amaros where the various types of wormwoods are a supporting flavor.
Gould also wrote a profile of artemisia species for a 2014 edition of Distiller magazine. It no longer appears to be online (I think they're working on getting the archives up in a readable format so maybe it will return in the future), but he wrote:Genepi
Genepi (or Genepy) are liqueurs typically made using “lesser”
wormwoods (such as petite/roman wormwood, sea
wormwood, black wormwood or rock wormwood), either
alone or in combination with other spices and botanicals.
These liqueurs are produced throughout the alpine areas of
Europe and are referred to by a variety of names. They are
commonly referred to as genepi in the Alps and Pyrenees
mountains. The word genepi is often also used to refer to
various wormwood plants as well, especially in France and
the French-speaking cantons of Switzerland.Some of the "lesser" wormwoods include Sea Wormwood – Artemesia Meritima; Rock Wormwood – Artemesia Rupestris; Yellow Genepi –
Artemisia Umbelliformis; plus the Artemesia Genepi itself.Gould also included a recipe for a Genepi from a handwritten distiller's note circa 1800 [excerpt]:
Genepi des Alps
Take of the common and sea wormwood, dried, of each ten
pounds; of sage, mint, and balm, dried, of each twenty handfuls;
of the roots of galangal, ginger, calamus aromaticusm and
elecampane, of the seeds of sweet fennel and coriander, of each
three ounces; of cinnamon, cloves, and nutmegs, the lesser cardamoms
and cubebs, of each two ounces.
The reason that this came up is there is a second American-made genepy coming out. As I posted in New Booze yesterday, the Bittercube folks are releasing a genepy liqueur to the Midwest US this year with a larger launch in 2019. They describe the new product as:Heirloom Genepy was developed in the Bittercube apothecary and gathers inspiration from a variety of Artemitis plants, while bridging the gap between robust varieties and more subtle variations. With respect for the category, this modern Genepy was formulated with bright alpine botanicals, and mellowed with honey.
Long story short: artemesia genepi may or may not be in genepy liqueurs, which are flavored with non-absinthium artemisia species. It would be fun to compare various genepy liqueurs to see how they're interpreted by these different distillers.
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A Guide to Botanicals Used in Cocchi Aromatized Wines & Vermouths
I had the pleasure of visiting the winery and distillery for Cocchi in Piedmont, Italy. More on the visit in a later post, but for now I wanted to share a bunch of images I took of botanicals used in the production of their products.
American readers will be familiar with Cocchi Americano, Cocchi Vermouth di Torino, and their Barolo Chinato.
I've been studying a lot of these botanicals lately, and found the write-ups on these from the tasting room to be very good. So I'll just post them here for future reference (yours and mine). Note that there is some good information on a few of these at the Cocchi website.
You might also check out this similar guide I did from a visit to Martini vermouths: A Visual Guide to Herbs Used to Make Vermouth.
All of the below images were taken at the Cocchi winery in Italy.
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Bitter Ingredient Flavors and Use from Martini Vermouth Masters
At this year's Bar Convent Brooklyn, I had the opportunity to sit down with Ivano Tonutti, Master Herbalist for Martini & Rossi (and Bacardi products generally) and Giuseppe "Beppe" Musso, Master Blender of Martini & Rossi.The timing was excellent, as I am preparing to give a talk on bitter ingredients for Tales of the Cocktail, and they were in town promoting the newish Martini & Rossi Riserva Speciale Bitter Liqueur.
The Bitter is part of the new premium Riserva line, along with Rubino (red) and Ambratto (white) vermouths. We spoke primarily about the new Bitter and and plants used in the Riserva line; but in some cases we were generalizing beyond that. So please consider this general information rather than super specific to any one product.
General Stuff
- The goal in using different bittering agents is to create a rounded bitter experience with multiple parallel bitters rather than a single-note bitter.
- Speaking of single-note bitter, they indicated quinine/cinchona bark pretty much gives that.
- When speaking about how different bittering agents impact the flavor, Tonutti would intuitively point to certain parts of his face, indicating where the individual bitter most impacts the palate – for example cinchona is a singular bitterness felt most in the far back of the mouth, different artemisia species were more forward. Gentian and rhubarb root impact the middle of the mouth more. It's interesting to see as we know the "tongue map" is false but yet we feel the impact of different bitter flavors in different parts of the mouth.
- They use all dried herbs, rather than fresh, for all the many Bacardi products (including things like Bombay, etc.) with the exception of some fresh citrus peels in Oxley gin. Dried herbs are used to ensure consistency and can be more easily measured for water content, etc.
- All these bitter agents are infused rather than distilled into products (we're talking about the Riserva line).
- They use only yellow gentian root – not the blue stemless gentian that a few producers use. They prefer French gentian as it's particularly bitter and more aromatic than from other places. They say the blue gentian is not super bitter, and it can be thought of more like an herb with root rather than just the root.
- Holy thistle is used in salads. In their products, it's used to impart mouthfeel, not bitterness. It is used in most of Martini's products.
- Dandelion – Leaves, not roots, are used. In production, leaves must be dried immediately after picking.
- Roman Chamomile – The bitterness of it depends on the extraction technique (lower ABV extraction is better for bitterness in general, they say) and the concentration. (I asked about this as I've made chamomile infusions in the past and none were bitter.)
Artemisia
- Between the Rubino and Ambratto there are different ratios of the three artemisia plants used – absinthia, pontica, and vulgaris. (grand/common, lesser/small, mugwort)
- Absinthium – boldest, bitterest, with a delicate herbal flavor
- Pontica – herbal and floral, a signature note of Martini vermouth, top note
- Vulgaris (aka mugwort) – aromatic, with a different and milder expression of bitterness.
Barks
- As noted, Cinchona bark gives a back-palate discreet bitterness.
- Columba bark is an aromatic bitter with mid-palate bitterness.
- Angostura bark is between cinchona and columba in its bitterness.
- Red cinchona (succirubra) is more bitter than yellow, with higher amounts of quinine, but they describe the flavor as more boring.
- Yellow cinchona (calisaya) they get from Ecuador. It is slightly aromatic, but there is less of it available on the market. This is used in Ambratto and probably other products.
Safety Stuff
- The amount of thujone in artemisia and quinine in cinchona bark are regulated. They say that their approach to this is to get as far under the legal limits of the active substances as possible. For example, their artemisia providers grow a strains of the plants with super low thujone content, and though they may be plants like grand wormwood that supposedly have a lot of it, they use varieties that don't. Thus if the legal limits of thujone were ever lowered, or as in the case of the US where the legal limit is lower than in the EU, they don't have to worry as they're not close to the limits.
- For quinine, there is a legal limit of 83 ppm allowed. That is just for quinine, not for quinidine and the other (two, I believe) active alkaloids present in cinchona bark. Tonutti said that rather than counting just the quinine, they keep the total number of all the alkaloids under the 83 ppm limit.
- Calamus is banned in the US and in Australia by name, meaning you cannot use it in a product's formulation at all, while in Europe and other countries, you may use the plant as long as the beta asarone levels are kept below a certain amount. [They noted the nonsensical nature of this, as if the problem with calamus is beta asarone, they why not limit the beta asarone?] Thus there are formula differences in some of their products in different countries. They also keep the beta asarone way below the legal limits in Europe anyway.
This may all seem like random stuff to you, but it was extremely helpful for the talk I'm preparing!
For those of you new to these products, here's the basic info from the brand:
RISERVA SPECIALE BITTER
The new Bitter joins the Riserva Speciale Rubino and Riserva Speciale Ambrato as part of a dedicated craft of exceptional Italian Aperitivi for bartenders and drinks enthusiasts. To develop the new Riserva Bitter, MARTINI & ROSSI used 100% natural ingredients and the original 1872 recipe, created by MARTINI & ROSSI founder Luigi Rossi, as their inspiration. MARTINI & ROSSI Master Herbalist, Ivano Tonutti, has carefully selected three rare botanicals (Saffron, Angostura and Columba), to deliver a unique richness and complexity to its taste profile through different dimensions of bitterness. The Bitter is also rested in the same Tino cask that is used for MARTINI & ROSSI Riserva Speciale Vermouth di Torino extracts and shares the vermouth’s common botanical, Italian Artemisia, allowing its unique complex bitter taste to perfectly complement it. ($26.99)
RISERVA SPECIALE RUBINO
The small parcels for full-bodied Langhe DOC Nebbiolo wines used to create MARTINI & ROSSI RISERVA SPECIALE RUBINO are blended with extracts of Italian Holy Thistle and Red Sandalwood from Central Africa to deliver a bright ruby red vermouth, which inspired the name of the expression. The delicate balance of botanicals creates a full-bodied herbal and complex style of Vermouth di Torino with a long aftertaste. ($14.99)
Ambrato packshotRISERVA SPECIALE AMBRATO
The floral and aromatic blend of small parcels of Moscato d’Asti DOCG wines, used to create MARTINI & ROSSI RISERVA SPECIALE AMBRATO, produces a beautifully honeyed Vermouth di Torino. The yellow Cinchona bark from Ecuador and Chinese Rhubarb create a light bitter taste profile that aromatizes and elevates the flavors of the wines. ($14.99)
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All the Cocktails and Spirits Books Published in 2016 for Reading or Gifting
I love books! Here are all the books on cocktails and spirits I know of (please do comment if I've missed something) published this year. Give some gifts or just stock up on your winter reading for the cold months. I've got stacks to get through myself.
Whiskey Books
Bourbon: The Rise, Fall, and Rebirth of an American Whiskey by Fred Minnick More Kentucky Bourbon Cocktails by Joy Perrine and Susan Reigler
The Big Man of Jim Beam: Booker Noe And the Number-One Bourbon In the World by Jim Kokoris
Whisky Japan: The Essential Guide to the World's Most Exotic Whisky by Dominic Roskrow
Iconic Whisky: Tasting Notes & Flavour Charts for 1,500 of the World's Best Whiskies by Cyrille Mald and Alexandre Vingtier
Whiskey: A Spirited Story with 75 Classic and Original Cocktails by Michael Dietsch
The Manhattan: The Story of the First Modern Cocktail with Recipes by Philip Greene
Miscellany
Made of Iceland: A Drink & Draw Book by Reyka Vodka, Snorri Sturluson Inside The Bottle: People, Brands, and Stories by Arthur Shapiro
The Craft Cocktail Coloring Book by Prof Johnny Plastini
Drinking with Republicans and Drinking with Democrats by Mark Will-Weber
The Moonshine Wars by Daniel Micko
Drinks: A User's Guide by Adam McDowell
Shrubs: An Old-Fashioned Drink for Modern Times (Second Edition) by Michael Dietsch
A Proper Drink: The Untold Story of How a Band of Bartenders Saved the Civilized Drinking World by Robert Simonson
Colonial Spirits: A Toast to Our Drunken History by Steven Grasse
DIY Bitters: Reviving the Forgotten Flavor – A Guide to Making Your Own Bitters for Bartenders, Cocktail Enthusiasts, Herbalists, and More by Jovial King and Guido Mase
Amaro: The Spirited World of Bittersweet, Herbal Liqueurs, with Cocktails, Recipes, and Formulas by Brad Thomas Parsons
Drink Like A Grown-Up by The League of Extraordinary Drinkers
The Coming of Southern Prohibition: The Dispensary System and the Battle over Liquor in South Carolina, 1907-1915 by Michael Lewis
American Wino: A Tale of Reds, Whites, and One Man's Blues by Dan Dunn
Distilled Stories: California Artisans Behind the Spirits by Capra Press
Building Bacardi: Architecture, Art & Identity by Allan T. Shulman
Craft Spirits by Eric Grossman
Cocktail Books, General
Cocktails for Ding Dongs by Dustin Drankiewicz (Author), Alexandra Ensign (Illustrator)Zen and Tonic: Savory and Fresh Cocktails for the Enlightened Drinker by Jules Aron
Pretty Fly For a Mai Tai: Cocktails with rock 'n' roll spirit
Cocktails for Drinkers: Not-Even-Remotely-Artisanal, Three-Ingredient-or-Less Cocktails that Get to the Point by Jennifer McCartney
Aperitivo: The Cocktail Culture of Italy by Marisa Huff
The Complete Cocktail Manual: 285 Tips, Tricks, and Recipes by Lou Bustamante and the United States Bartenders' Guild
Shake. Stir. Sip.: More than 50 Effortless Cocktails Made in Equal Parts by Kara Newman
101 Cocktails to Try Before you Die by Francois Monti
Drink Like a Man: The Only Cocktail Guide Anyone Really Needs by Ross McCammon and David Wondrich
The New Cocktail Hour: The Essential Guide to Hand-Crafted Cocktails by Andre Darlington and Tenaya Darlington
Spritz: Italy's Most Iconic Aperitivo Cocktail, with Recipes by Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau
Eat Your Drink: Culinary Cocktails by Matthew Biancaniello
Cannabis Cocktails, Mocktails & Tonics: The Art of Spirited Drinks and Buzz-Worthy Libations by Warren Bobrow
Tiki with a Twist: 75 Cool, Fresh, and Wild Tropical Cocktails by Lynn Calvo and James O. Fraioli
Cocktail Books from Bars or Places
The Canon Cocktail Book: Recipes from the Award-Winning Bar by Jamie Boudreau and James O. Fraioli Regarding Cocktails by Sasha Petraske and Georgette Moger-Petraske
Brooklyn Spirits: Craft Distilling and Cocktails from the World's Hippest Borough By Peter Thomas Fornatale and Chris Wertz
Smuggler's Cove: Exotic Cocktails, Rum, and the Cult of Tiki by Martin Cate and Rebecca Cate
Cuban Cocktails: Over 50 mojitos, daiquiris and other refreshers from Havana
Brooklyn Bar Bites: Great Dishes and Cocktails from New York's Food Mecca by Barbara Scott-Goodman
The Waldorf Astoria Bar Book by Frank Caiafa
Lift Your Spirits: A Celebratory History of Cocktail Culture in New Orleans by Elizabeth M. Williams and Chris McMillian
Science!
Shots of Knowledge: The Science of Whiskey by Rob Arnold and Eric SimanekDistilled Knowledge: The Science Behind Drinking’s Greatest Myths, Legends, and Unanswered Questions by Brian D Hoefling
Classic Cocktail Book Reprints
THE HOME BARTENDER'S GUIDE AND SONG BOOK {By Charlie Roe and Jim Schwenck}
AMERICAN BAR {By Frank P. Newman}
LOUIS' MIXED DRINKS {By Louis Muckenstrum}
Beer (A few beer books slip through the cracks and come to me)
The United States of Beer: A Freewheeling History of the All-American Drink by Dane Huckelbridge
The Beer Geek Handbook: Living a Life Ruled by Beer by Patrick Dawson
MY BOOK!
Please consider supporting Alcademics by purchasing a copy of my book Tonic Water AKA G&T WTF. It's a gift to yourself, and a gift to me.
Want to see some of the previous years' books? Well, here they are:
More Than 40 Drink Books Published in 2014 for Reading or Gifting
All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting
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(Almost) All the Cocktails & Spirits Books Published in 2015, For Reading or Gifting
Throughout the year I post new drink books to Alcademics, because I love drinking and books. Below is all of them put together so that you can make your holiday wish list for yourself or see them all together to pick presents for friends and family.
Know of a book I missed? Let me know and I'll add it.
Culture and Fun
You Suck At Drinking: Being a Complete Guide to Drinking for Any and All Situations in Your Life, Including But Not Limited to Office Holiday Parties, Weddings, Breakups and Other Sad Times, Outdoor Chores Like Deck-building, and While in Public, Legally and Illegally By Matthew LatkiewiczToasts: The Perfect Words to Celebrate Every Occasion By June Cotner and Nancy Tupper Ling
Party Like A President: True Tales of Inebriation, Lechery, and Mischief from the Oval Office By Brian Abrams
The Field Guide to Drinking in America By Niki Ganong
You Deserve a Drink: Boozy Misadventures and Tales of Debauchery by Mamrie Hart
A Visual Guide to Drink by Pop Chart Lab: Ben Gibson, Patrick Mulligan
Vintage Reprints
Hoffman House Bartender's Guide By Charley Mahoney
The Ideal Bartender By Tom Bullock
W. C. Whitfield's Mixed Drinks and Cocktails: An Illustrated, Old-School Bartender's Guide by W. C. Whitfield (Author), Tad Shell (Illustrator), Joaquín Simó (Foreword)
Shaking Up Prohibition in New Orleans: Authentic Vintage Cocktails from A to Z
By Olive Leonhardt and Hilda Phelps HammondHistorical Books
Cocktail Noir: From Gangsters and Gin Joints to Gumshoes and Gimlets by Scott Deitche
Lost Recipes of Prohibition: Notes from a Bootlegger’s Manual by Matthew RowleyTo Have and Have Another Revised Edition: A Hemingway Cocktail Companion by Philip Greene
Gone with the Gin: Cocktails with a Hollywood Twist by Tim Federle
Cocktails of the Movies: An Illustrated Guide to Cinematic Mixology by Will Francis , Stacey Marsh
Imbibe! From Absinthe Cocktail to Whiskey Smash, a Salute in Stories and Drinks to “Professor” Jerry Thomas, Pioneer of the American Bar (Updated and Revised Edition)
By David WondrichContraband Cocktails: How America Drank When It Wasn't Supposed To by Paul Dickson
Narrative Cocktail BooksThe Cocktail Chronicles: Navigating the Cocktail Renaissance with Jigger, Shaker & Glass by Paul Clarke
Drinking the Devil's Acre: A Love Letter from San Francisco and her Cocktails by Duggan McDonnell
Ten Cocktails: The Art of Convivial Drinking by Alice Lascelles
Cocktails from Specific Bars
The Dead Rabbit Drinks Manual: Secret Recipes and Barroom Tales from Two Belfast Boys Who Conquered the Cocktail World by Sean Muldoon, Jack McGarry, Ben SchafferExperimental Cocktail Club: Paris, London & New York by Romée de Goriainoff, Pierre-Charles Cros, Olivier Bon, Xavier Padavoni
Cuban Cocktails: 100 Classic and Modern Drinks by Ravi DeRossi, Jane Danger, Alla Lapushchik
Tujague's Cookbook: Creole Recipes and Lore in the New Orleans Grand Tradition by Poppy Tooker
Cocktails for Dingdongs Vol. 1. by Dustin Drankiewicz and Alexandra Ensign
Themed Cocktail Books
Summer Cocktails: Margaritas, Mint Juleps, Punches, Party Snacks, and More! By MarТa del Mar Sacasa and Tara StrianoThe Negroni: Drinking to La Dolce Vita, with Recipes & Lore By Gary Regan
Cocktails on Tap: The Art of Mixing Spirits and Beer By Jacob Grier
The Tippling Bros. A Lime and a Shaker: Discovering Mexican-Inspired Cocktails by by Tad Carducci & Paul Tanguay with Alia Akkam
Classic Cocktails by Salvatore Calabrese
Tea Cocktails: A Mixologist's Guide to Legendary Tea-Infused Cocktails by Abigail R. Gehring
The Mason Jar Cocktail Companion by Shane Carley
Tiki Drinks: Tropical Cocktails for the Modern Bar by Robert Sharp and Nicole Weston
The Manhattan Cocktail: A Modern Guide to the Whiskey Classic by Albert W. A. Schmid
Paris Cocktails: An Elegant Collection of Over 100 Recipes Inspired by the City of Light by Doni Belau
Wild Drinks & Cocktails: Handcrafted Squashes, Shrubs, Switchels, Tonics, and Infusions to Mix at Home by Emily Han
The Periodic Table of COCKTAILS by Emma Stokes
Forager's Cocktails: Botanical Mixology with Fresh, Natural Ingredients by Amy Zavatto
Bitters and Shrub Syrup Cocktails: Restorative Vintage Cocktails, Mocktails, and Elixirs by Warren Bobrow
The Essential New York Times Book of Cocktails by Steve Reddicliffe
Good Things to Drink with Mr Lyan and Friends by Ryan Chetiyawardana
The Craft Cocktail Party: Delicious Drinks for Every Occasion by Julie Reiner
Whisky and Whiskey
Whiskey: What to Drink Next: Craft Whiskeys, Classic Flavors, New Distilleries, Future Trends By Dominic Roskrow Bourbon Curious: A Simple Tasting Guide for the Savvy Drinker by Fred Minnick
Bourbon Empire: The Past and Future of America’s Whiskey by Reid Mitenbuler
Spirit of Place: Scotland's Great Whisky Distilleries by Charles MacLean
The Essential Scratch & Sniff Guide to Becoming a Whiskey Know-It-All: Know Your Booze Before You Choose by Richard Betts
The Birth of Bourbon: A Photographic Tour of Early Distilleries by Carol Peachee
American Whiskey, Bourbon & Rye (New Edition): A Guide to the Nation's Favorite Spirit by Clay Risen
Other Spirits
Bitterman's Field Guide to Bitters & Amari: 500 Bitters; 50 Amari; 123 Recipes for Cocktails, Food & Homemade Bitters by Mark BittermanHow the Gringos Stole Tequila: The Modern Age of Mexico's Most Traditional Spirit By Chantal Martineau
Divided Spirits: Tequila, Mezcal, and the Politics of Production by Sarah Bowen
Gin: The Manual by Dave Broom
Vermouth: The Revival of the Spirit That Created America’s Cocktail Culture by Adam Ford
Branca: A Spirited Italian Icon by Niccolo Branca di Romanico
Science-Minded
Cognitive Cooking with Chef Watson: Recipes for Innovation from IBM & the Institute of Culinary Education
Hidden Scents: The Language of Smell in the Age of Approximation by Allen Barkkume
Miscellany
Fika: The Art of the Swedish Coffee Break with Recipes for Pastries, Breads, and other Treats By Anna Brones and Johanna KindvallThe River Cottage Booze Handbook by John Wright
The Beer Bible by Jeff Alworth
Cider Made Simple: All About Your New Favorite Drink by Jeff Alworth
Discovering the New York Craft Spirits Boom by Heather D. Dolland
Branding: Distilled by Cynthia Sterling
