Blog

  • 2011: My Year in Cocktail Writing

    Looking over the year (read: sending invoices) for 2011, it turns out that I managed to get a lot of work done in between all the trips.

    This year I contributed to:

    • FineCooking.com as the weekly cocktail blogger
    • Mixology Magazine in Germany
    • The LA Times Magazine
    • Caviar Affair Magazine
    • SilverKris (Singapore Airlines)
    • Penthouse Magazine
    • The San Francisco Chronicle
    • 7×7 Magazine
    • Tasting Panel Magazine
    • TastingTable.com
    • Drink Magazine (China)
    • Sunset Magazine
    • Every Day with Rachael Ray Magazine
    • DiffordsGuide/ CLASS Magazine
    • ShakeStir.com
    • Drinks International
    • The Bold Italic

    Plus, I blogged every day here on Alcademics.com and worked on both the Solid Liquids Project and the Sugar Spirit Project. 

    I spoke at several conferences this year including Vino 2011, SF Chefs, and the Wine & Spirits Wholesalers Association, covered cocktail competitions in France, Spain, and India, and judged them in Vegas and San Francisco. 

    So, I guess that was a pretty productive year! Thanks again for reading all my blatherings. 

  • 2011: A Year of Spirituous Travel

    In 2011, I traveled to 12 foreign countries not counting repeats on 22 different trips, flying 156,000 miles to do so. I had a mere 80 nights in hotel rooms and one or two hangovers.

    My trips this year were: 

    • Vino 2011 in NYC
    • Jameson Irish Whiskey in Ireland
    • Casa Noble Tequila in Mexico
    • Angostura Bitters/Rum in Trinidad
    • Pioneers of Mixology in Los Angeles
    • Wine and Spirits Wholesalers of America in Orlando
    • Bacardi Global Legacy Cocktail Competition in London and Spain
    • Bombay Sapphire Botanicals in London and Italy
    • Karlsson's Vodka in Sweden
    • G'Vine Gin Connoisseur Competition in France
    • Diageo World Class Competition in India
    • Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans
    • ZU Vodka in Poland
    • Purity Vodka in Sweden
    • Cherry Heering in Copenhagen
    • Bombay Sapphire/GQ Most Inspired Bartender Competition in Las Vegas
    • DonQ Rum in Puerto Rico
    • Pallini Limoncello in Italy
    • Cointreau in France
    • Auchentoshan Switch Competition in Las Vegas
    • Yamazaki Whisky in Japan
    • Taste of the Times Event in Los Angeles

    I am hoping for a more localized but equally awesome 2012. 

  • Instant Infusions in Tasting Panel Magazine

    I have a short piece in Tasting Panel Magazine about the instant infusion method – using a whipped cream charger filled with nitrous oxide to infuse flavors in spirits – and Purity Vodka's promotion of the technique. 

    Instant infusions tasting panel
    The story is at this link, which opens a digital magazine reader. 

    By the way, the original Dave Arnold post annoucing this method is here at CookingIssues.com.

  • Trends in Craft Beer in SilverKris Magazine

    SilverKrisDec2011CoverMy editor at SilverKris, the inflight magazine for Singapore Airlines, emailed me something like, "I hear craft beer is becoming popular. Can you do a story on that?"

    "Sure," I said, knowing that boiling down everything going on with craft beer into even a feature-length story was going to be incredibly difficult. 

    The story kind of kicked my ass but taught me a lot about beer. I have a feeling for the trends but not a lot of knowledge of the technical details behind the beer styles so this involved a lot of research.

    Anyway, I mushed things into categories like Belgian, barleywine, saison, session, flavored, high-alcohol, sparkling, canned, and casked. 

    The story is online in one of those online magazine reader formats at this link.

    SilverKrisCraftBeersScreenGrab

  • New Fernets in the San Francisco Chronicle

    In the San Francisco Chronicle on Sunday, December 18th, I have a story on the category of fernet.

    Chronicle Fernets

    Leopold Brothers has a modern formulation of fernet that should be hitting story shelves this Wednesday afternoon, and Tempus Fugit Spirits has a vintage recreation of fernet coming in the new year.

    Leopld fernet(Photo by John Storey)

    From the story:

    While many people call for the bitter liqueur Fernet-Branca by the shorthand "Fernet," they should probably specify "Branca." Fernet is not a single product but a type of spirit, and its ranks are about to become more populated.

    Angelico Fernet, from local importers Tempus Fugit Spirits of Novato, launches early next year, while Fernet Leopold, from Leopold Bros. of Denver, should be available this week. They join examples from Stock, Luxardo and R. Jelinek.

    At the end of the story, there is a delicious cocktail from Darren Crawford of Bourbon & Branch  and Tony Nik's and Scott Brody of Per Diem. It contains fernet, Carpano vermouth, Domaine de Canton, lime juice, and ginger beer.

    Go read it!

    Eva perone cocktail
    (Photo by Erick Wong)

  • Japanese Bartending Story

    JapaneseBartendingCaviarAffarDec2011I have a short piece in the new issue of Caviar Affair magazine describing the influence of Japanese bartending on the rest of the world. 

    The magazine also has lots of pricey booze recomendations, stories about port and cognac, and a few bartenders you may know. 

    The digital version of the magazine is at this link, and my Japanese bartending story is on page 39. 

  • Bartenders Looking Very GQ

    Cover-jay-zHey, I'm in GQ magazine in the December issue. Surprisingly not as their Man of the Year, but in the Bombay Sapphire advertorial looking somewhat constipated.

     

    CamperInGQMagazine

    The four-page spread is about the Most Inspired Bartender contest 2011, for which I was one of the judges. We all carved our names into that ice block in the background.

    Most of the pictures are of bartenders outfitted in Ted Baker clothing, looking good. I've scanned and pasted the pages below the jump.

    (more…)

  • Bars in Japan: Observations

    Here are some observations about bars in Japan from my trip with Suntory whiskies. 

    • You can smoke in bars in Japan. Bars were all a little bit smoky, but none of them I visited were smoky that your eyes hurt. 
    • When you enter a cocktail bar and most other types of bars, they give you a hot wet towel to wipe your hands. Even the low-end bars give you a wet-nap version of this. This is lovely and I'd like to see some bars in the US do it. 
    • For many bars it's seated customers only. You pop your head in and ask if there is room before entering. 
    • A lot of cocktail menus don't list the drink ingredients, only the name, even for original creations. What good is that?  
    • When barhopping at home, I can have just one drink at each bar. In Japan I noticed that my hosts always steered me toward a second drink. I think that it's impolite to leave after just one. 
    • Understanding Japanese gets easier after the third drink. However, it gets really hard again after the tenth. 
    • Japanese people can drink a lot. I have a healthy layer of fat and yet all of my skinny Japanese hosts kept up or surpassed me nightly.
    • Bars have a cover charge.
    • Almost every bar offers some food. A snack is often included in the cover charge, but they offer much more. Thus you can go barhopping without eating first -you're going to be eating at every place you go. 

    Thanks Japan, you are awesome!

    Karaoke bar shinjuko tokyo_tn

  • Bars in Japan: Miscellany

     On my five-day visit to Japan with Suntory whiskies I hit 21 bars by my count. I am talking about them in groups. Next up: The Rest of Them.

    The difference between the various styles of bars is subtle and I'm defining them as I see them. I'll be describing whisky bars, cocktail bars, highball and standing bars, and pubs/clubs/dives. This is that last section.

    Rippongi Nouen is actually a restaurant but it's notable because they serve highballs with flavors like ginger and rosemary.

    The restaurant has big glass cubes in the back that have (or used to have, can't tell) herbs and vegetables growing in them. 

    Roppongi nouen rosemary highball_tn

    The tasting menu had some great food. I think they picked this place not just for the drinks but for its vegetarian tasting menu.

    Roppongi nouen personal grill_tn
    (Everyone gets their personal smoking grill in one dish.)

    One Shot Bar The Door (I'm not sure if it's called The Door or One Shot Bar) is located in Kyoto. I didn't see much of the bar downstairs as we were in a private room upstairs with our shoes off on with tatami mats having a great conversation. It has a short cocktail menu, mostly of classics. I ordered a Martini. 

    One shot bar kyoto japan_tn

    One shot bar kyoto japan martini_tn

    Three Martini Bar in Yokohama is full of good. The walls are lined with vintage whisky decanters and ice buckets and they were playing a soundtrack of yacht rock. Good vibes all around.

    Three martini bar yokohama_tn

    Three martini bar yokohama2_tn

    Three martini bar yokohama menu_tn
    (Mmm, tequira.)

    Our hosts gave us a few reasons why it's called Three Martini, but I only remember one of them. "Three" in German is spelled "dreit" as in "dry." In exchange, I told them that in America it might refer to the three-martini lunch or Dorothy Parker's "two at the most" rhyme.

    Anyway, we ordered Moscow Mules and the three Martinis.

    Three martini bar yokohama moscow mule mugs_tn

    Three martinis at three martini bar yokohama_tn

    For bar snacks they had several options including fried sugar(!*!*!*!).

    Three martini bar yokohama fried sugar_tn

    Eagle Bar in Shinjuku area of Tokyo looks like a speakeasy gentleman's club with patterned wallpaper, wooden walls, and carpeting. To enter you walk down a flight of stairs to find a room with the main bar. Walk down another flight of stairs (two storeys below the street) and there is another small bar room where we sat. 

    Eagle bar upstairs shinjuko tokyo2_tn

    We sat at the bar. It has low barstools so your feet are touching the floor. While a couple to our right were working their way through the cocktail list, we stuck to highballs. 

    Eagle bar shinjuko tokyo2_tn

    Bigri Bar is located in Golden Gai, the neighborhood of tiny bars I mentioned previously. 

    Street Golden Gai Tokyo Japan_tn

    You enter in a set of incredibly steep stairs into a room that looks like a kitchen in a studio apartment.

    Steep stairs Bigri Bar Golden Gai Tokyo Japan_tn

    I think this is what is called a "mama-san bar" as the owner is an older lady who serves drinks and also cooks you (not exactly good-looking) food from behind the same bar counter. 

    Coaster Bigri Bar Golden Gai Tokyo Japan_tn
    (Hand-knit cocktail coasters. Adorable.)

    Cooking Bigri Bar Golden Gai Tokyo Japan_tn

    Track Bar is an uber-hipster bar that wasn't filled with hipsters at the time we visited. They have a wall of 33" records and a DJ spinning them. There were mason jars full of help-yourself snacks. But it still operated like a cocktail bar – you ask when you walk in the door if there is enough seating before entering. 

    Bar track  ebisu tokyo3_tn

    Bar snacks bar track  ebisu tokyo_tn

    It seems like a whisky bar but I saw cocktails being made as well. I ordered a highball, and their house style at this bar is to serve it in a frosted glass without ice. 

    Highball without ice bar track  ebisu tokyo_tn

  • Bars in Japan: Standing and Highball Bars

    On my five-day visit to Japan with Suntory whiskies I hit 21 bars by my count. I am talking about them in groups. Next up: Standing and Highball Bars.

    The difference between the various styles of bars is subtle and I'm defining them as I see them. I'll be describing whisky bars, cocktail bars, highball and standing bars, and pubs/clubs/dives. As far as I can tell, highball bars are all standing bars but I'd imagine there are standing bars that don't specialize in highballs. 

    As you can guess, standing/highball bars are bars in which everyone is standing up drinking at tall tables rather than seated. They are popular after-work bars. Perhaps they're Japanese happy hour bars. 

    Anyway, in Kyoto we went to a bar called Getto, which is a pretty great name. The bar is as big as a hallway, with lots of traditional Japanese beverages. You stand up the whole time but are essentially leaning against the wall behind you. 

    Getto bar Kyoto Japan_tn

    There I tried aged awarami, a beverage from Okinawa that is aged in ceramic containers. It tastes like shochu for the most part. A little gamey but nothing special. 

    Getto bar Kyoto Japan2_tn

    I also tried kokutojochu, which is sugar cane schochu fermented with rice mold. Basically, it's Batavia arrack and I wanted to see if it tasted the same. More or less! It was, as expected, completely disgusting, like fermented sweatsocks

    However, the cucumber was awesome.

    Getto bar Kyoto Japan cucumber_tn

    Gindaka is a highball bar in the Shinjuku area of Tokyo. It's  basically a take-out restaurant with one window facing the street and another into a tiny room for standing customers. They have a tap that serves highballs of Yamazaki 10 and Suntory Whisky (a blended whisky sometimes called "koku" which means "box" as the bottle is short and squareish.)

    Shinjuko tokyo2_tn
    (This is the neighborhood where Gindaka is located. Busy, to say the least.)

    Gindaka highball bar shinjuko tokyo on tap_tn
    (Highballs on tap, with Suntory Premium Malts beer also on tap in the middle.)

    Sign at gindaka highball bar shinjuko tokyo_tn
    (Koku bottle in ad.)

     When they served us the Koku, it came with a lemon slice, served in a plastic mug. For the Yamazaki 10, they put it in a highball glass. And when we ordered a highball with Hakushu 10 they put it in the same glass with a tiny piece of mint on top. A nice little indicator that you've moved up in your drinking choice.

    Highball of suntory at gindaka highball bar shinjuko tokyo_tn
    (First drink with Suntory Whisky.)

    Highball of yamazaki 10 gindaka highball bar shinjuko tokyo_tn
    (Second highball, Yamazaki 10 in highball glass.)

    Hakushu 10 mint garnish gindaka highball bar shinjuko tokyo_tn
    (Hakushu 10 highball, with tiny mint garnish.)

    Marugine, my hosts tell me, is the most famous highball bar in Japan. It's what I would call 'regular bar' sized, but with all tall communal tables for standing and eating or drinking. 

    Marugine highball bar tokyo_tn

     As this was my sixth bar of the evening, I am a little hazy about any other details. 

    Marugine highball bar tokyo2_tn

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