Blog

  • Sherry Bodega Visit: Bodegas Tradicion

    In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Tradicion. 

    Bodegas tradicion 2_tn
     (The small and beautiful bodega.)

    Bodegas tradicion glass 4_tn
    (Drinking out of the barrel.)

    Bodegas tradicion 6_tn
    (Criadera refers to the level of the barrel in the solera system. The 1/18 refers to the number of the barrel and the total of the set. )

    Bodegas tradicion painting_tn
    (They also have an art gallery in the bodega. I call this painting "Laserdove".)

     

    • Bodega only started in 1998
    • Only produce old sherries –  VOS, VORS. 
    • They buy them from other bodegas already aged and put them into their solera system.
    • To my palate, older sherries are effervescent, literally. Very acidic. Lively jumps in your mouth.
  • Chartreuse + Chocolate = Delicious

    The week before Paul Clarke wrote about the same topic to make it look like I ripped him off, I wrote my next blog entry for FineCooking.com, about the magical mystery combination of Chartreuse liqueur and chocolate. 

    While Paul was creative and found four drinks that combine the two ingredients, I went to Jamie Boudreau and asked if I could borrow a single recipe he blogged about in 2007. I'd like to think that this just makes me efficient.  

    Hot chocolate med res
    (Verte Chaud by Jamie Bodreau. Photo also by Jamie Boudreau.)

    Read the story on FineCooking.com here.

    And remember, your comments at Fine Cooking make me love you more. 

  • Tequila Distillery Visit: Casa Pedro Domecq

    In November I visited seven tequila distilleries in Mexico. Here are some pictures and notes from my visit to Casa Pedro Domecq in the town of Arandas.

    Olmeca altos agave ovens2_tn(Agave being loaded into ovens. They use the same agave for treatment with rollermill as with tahona.)

    This distillery makes Tezon tequila, Olmeca Altos, and a mixto tequila for the Mexican market. I believe Tezon is all tahona tequila. This was distributed by Pernod Ricard in the US, but it appears they've abandoned it and are pursuing sales of Olmeca Altos, which is about half the price, instead. This tequila, also 100% agave, is made by blending agave that has been processed with a roller mill with tahona agave. 

    Tequila olmeca altos agave roller mill_tn(In the rollermill process, after the agave is baked to break up the complex into simpler, fermentable sugars, the agave is shredded using a rollermill.)

    Tequila olmeca altos tahona crushing agave4_tn
    (The tahona method. After baking the agave, the chunks of agave are placed in this pit. The large volcanic stone wheel rotates around in it, crushing the agave to expose the sugars before distillation. In olden times, the tahona would have been pulled by a mule.)

    Tequila olmeca altos tahona crushing agave2_tn
    (This is the post-tahona agave. Gross. The fibers actually reabsorb the liquids here. All of it is thrown into the fermentation tanks.)

    Fermenting agave tequila olmeca altos_tn
    (Fermenting agave juice.)

    Copper stills for tahona agave tequila olmeca altos (2)_tn
    (These stills are for the tahona agave- the big opening is so they can put in the fibers.)

    Barrels with plastic to prevent evaporation tequila olmeca altos_tn
    (In the warehouse, they cover the lids of some barrels with plastic to reduce evaporation.)

    • Agave for Olmeca Altos is 7-8 years old before harvest. 
    • They cut out the cogollo (the interior of the plant where it would sprout to reproduce if it could) in the field. 
    • They heat the agave in ovens, though they own an autoclave that is sometimes used for the mixto. 
    • They use larger pot stills for the mixto. 
    • They ferment and distill the tahona agave with the agave fibers, not the rollermill agave.
    • The reposado tequila is aged in ex-bourbon barrels for 6-8 months.
    • They replace the barrels after 9-10 years. They tried recharring the barrels but didn't like the results.
    • The last agave shortage was in 2000 and 2001. Some people predict another shortage in a year or two. 
    • Lowland soils are sandier, darker, and more volcanic
    • 60-70% of agave for tequila is grown in the highlands
  • Winter Drinking Guide in 7×7 Magazine

    Oh hello, giant sexy four-page spread in the December issue of 7×7 Magazine written by Camper English!

    7x7december2010

    Run screaming to your local newsstand to pick up the latest issue with a guide to winter drinking. In it you'll learn:

    • Where to get your fancy on in a hotel bar
    • The best hot drinks in SF
    • Bars with rooms for rent
    • The bar with 1200 Santa Claus dolls on display
    • How I worked the phrase "plaid-slathered" into a bar review
    • Gift ideas from local liquor stores
    • The best bar for hungover bartender spotting 
  • Sherry Bodega Visit: Harvey’s

    In September 2010 I visited several sherry bodegas. Here are pictures and a few notes from Bodegas Harvey's. 

    Harveys vineyard4_tn
    (At the vineyard.)

    Harveys vineyard 2_tn
    (The white, chalky soil of Jerez not only seals in water to get the vines through the dry season, it reflects sunlight up to the bottom of the vines as well.)

    Harveys barrel_tn
    (At the bodega, the famous Harvey's Bristol Cream.)

    Harveys bodega2_tn
    (Barrels of sherry at the Harvey's bodega.)

    Harveys bodega 7_tn
    (Sherry, read for drinking!)

    Harveys bodega albino peacock_tn
    (The grounds at Harvey's are filled with animals like albino peacocks and…)

    Harveys bodega alligator 3_tn
    (a pair of alligators.)

     

    • 75% of their grapes are machine harvested
    • PX and Palomino grapes look similar but taste very different
    • Vines last 30-35 years before being replaced
    • Harveys sells 51% of all sherry in US. That’s most (all?) Harvey’s Bristol Cream
    • Harvey’s VOS, VORS not yet sold in US. 
    • The cream category of sherry was named for Harvey’s Bristol Cream
    • Harvey’s has albino peacocks
    • Alligators- Harvey and Kevin. Kevin didn’t get along with his former mate Sandra and killed her. Gay alligators? 
  • The Clear Ice Maker That Already Exists

    So you know how I've been working for months on a way to make clear ice, and figured out that the best way (so far) to do it is with an Igloo cooler

    It turns out that someone else thought of that at least a couple of years ago. The Polar Ice Tray is basically a high-design cooler that separates the cloudy part of the ice from the clear part.

    Polar ice tray 3

    They accomplish this with an interior perforated bucket of sorts. The last part to freeze, the bottom, will have all the cloudy parts in it, and that is below the bucket.

    According to the instructions, you break off the cloudy part outside the bucket after it is frozen. 

    Polar ice tray1

     

    Pretty cool. More information is here.

    It looks like it works as well as my Igloo cooler method, and is just a bit smaller holding about 2.5 cups worth of ice. I've got more experiments to do though…

    An index of all of the ice experiments on Alcademics can be found here.

     

  • Turkey Cocktail

    OldFashionedMedRes_lg In my latest post on FineCooking.com, I tell the tale of a recent Thanksgiving tradition: drinking Wild Turkey. 

    I also link to my experiments with Wild Tofurkey and share a new-fangled Old Fashioned recipe from the brand.

    Check it out here.

     

  • The Orange in Pyrat Rum

    A great rum mystery is finally solved! If you've had Pyrat rum, you've probably noticed its very strong orange taste- so strong that many people have wondered if something was added to the rum. Well, now we know why Pyrat tastes so much like orange. 

    I was at the Patron tequila distillery last night meeting with their master distiller Francisco Alcaraz. He also developed the formula for Pyrat rum, which is made in Guyana. 

    I asked Alcaraz why Pyrat tastes so strongly of orange. He said that like how Patron's Burdeos tequila spends time in an ex-Bordeaux wine barrel, Pyrat rum spends time in a used cask: one that previously held orange liqueur. 

    As I've not seen this information previously, I didn't press the issue too much and don't know how much time in the orange liqueur cask or which orange liqueur it is used. I do not think it is Patron's Citronge orange liqueur though. 

    Aging or "finishing" a spirit in a cask that previously held another spirit (that imparts flavor to it) is common among tequila, whisky, and rum. However this might be the first time I've heard of a spirit aged in an ex-orange liqueur barrel. 

    Anyway, that finally solves that. 

  • Fortune Ice: Like A Fortune Cookie But With Ice

    In my latest set of fun experiments with ice, I created fortune ice.  

    Second set_tn

    I'd been meaning to do this for a while, but two things made it actually happen. First, I bought a Tovolo King Cube Ice Cube Tray to make 2-inch cubes. Second, I realized I could use my Label Maker for the fortunes. 

    Still thirsty_tn

    I was thinking that I would have to make fortunes then laminate them, but the label maker spits out labels that are plasticy on both sides. 

    This is one case where I didn't want perfectly clear ice (learn how to make clear ice here) because then you could read the fortunes in the cubes before they melted. 

    It turns out that the cloudiness in water does well to hide the paper in ice. 

    Outdoors1_tn

    Drink close_tn

    I froze the cubes with the fortunes inside, then let them thaw out. When some of the fortune was sticking out from the cube, I could pull it from the end and they slid out: No need to wait until the whole thing melted. 

    Melt2_tn
    No free refills_tn

    I wanted to make sure the paper didn't disintegrate in water, so I left a few fortunes in a glass of water overnight and they showed no signs of deterioration. However I should try this again with alcohol.

    Drink1_tn

    So, that was fun!

    Possible uses for fortune ice could include: 

    • Fortunes, just like fortune cookies.
    • Giveaways/prizes. One fortune contains a coupon for a free drink, door prize, etc. 
    • Cocktail recipes for the drink that you're drinking. 
    • Advertising. "Next time make this drink with our brand of whisky!"
    • The bartender's phone number. "Call me, hot stuff."

    All your ice_tn

     
    An index of all of the ice experiments on Alcademics can be found here.

  • Beer in the Penthouse

    Penthouse Magazine December 2010 Beer Story Finally, I'm appearing in the pages of Penthouse magazine. Oddly, they didn't ask me to model. That's not me on the cover. 

    In the December issue of Penthouse magazine,  I have a two-page spread on "Advanced Level Beer Gear," including some gift items like a homebrew kit, kegerator, and a dog collar that holds a bottle opener. 

    So now you bartenders have an excuse to buy Penthouse and write it off as a work expense.

    You're welcome.

agave alcademics Angostura bartenders bitters bodega bourbon bowmore Campari Camper English chartreuse clear clear ice cocktail cocktail powder cocktails cognac curacao dehydrated dehydrated liqueurs dehydration directional freezing distillery distillery tour distillery visit france freezing objects in ice hakushu harvest history how to make clear ice ice ice balls ice carving ice cubes ice experiments isle of jura jerez liqueur makepage making clear ice mexico midori molasses orange orange liqueur penthouse pisco potato powder production recipe Recipes rum san francisco scotch scotch whisky sherry spain spirits sugar sugarcane sweden tales of the cocktail tequila tour triple sec visit vodka whiskey whisky