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  • Simple Syrup: It’s Good to be Rich

    This post lists the spoilage times for different simple syrups. You can use it to determine how long until simple syrup will spoil. 

    Simple syrup is never just that simple. Some people make it 1:1 sugar to water. Others make it 2:1, and call it "rich simple syrup."

    One-to-one simple syrup is easy to make- put equal amounts sugar and water in a bottle and shake it up. No heat is necessary. For rich simple syrup if you shake and wait and shake and wait you can get it into solution without heat, but most people heat up the water first on the stove and the sugar dissolves almost instantly (but then you have to wait for it to cool before using). Either way, you need to plan for it.

    So why would anyone bother with rich simple syrup? Because you can use less of it in a drink to get the same amount of sweetening, but more importantly it lasts longer before spoiling in your refrigerator.

    Syrupjars

    To test this, I made up four syrups and decided to wait to see how long it was until they spoiled. For each ratio, I added a tablespoon of vodka, as this is another method of making syrup last longer before spoiling.

    • 1:1 simple syrup
    • 1:1 simple syrup plus one tablespoon vodka 
    • 2:1 rich simple syrup
    • 2:1 rich simple syrup plus one tablespoon vodka

    Then I put them all in the refrigerator and waited. Eventually, the syrup would become cloudy then that cloudiness would start to mold. I stopped the experiment when the cloudiness appeared.

    Results:

    • 1:1 simple syrup lasted One Month
    • 1:1 simple syrup plus one tablespoon vodka lasted Three Months
    • 2:1 rich simple syrup lasted Six Months
    • 2:1 rich simple syrup plus one tablespoon vodka lasted more than six months

    So depending on how fast you go through simple syrup you may want to adjust the syrup that you make. Of course, you'll have to go back and adjust all your drink recipes too.

  • Heirloom Tomatoes, Ripe for Drinking

    It's tomato season and all the local restaurants are rolling out the tomato carts and tomato specialty dinners. The bartenders are getting in on the action too.

    Zing At Range, Carlos Yturria's famous Sungold Zinger is back on the menu, made with Sungold Zinger cherry tomatoes, No. 209 gin, lemon, agave syrup, and salt.

    The bartenders at Range restaurant in San Francisco have started two blogs, by the way. Cocktail of the Day lists the daily cocktail served at the restaurant, and Inside the Blood Bank (from which I stole the picture) is a more general bartender and drink blog.

    Elsewhere in tomato drink news, Carneros Bistro & Wine Bar in Sonoma is serving a tomato basil martini with your choice of gin or vodka.

    And as part of the tomato dinner Sent Sovi in Saratoga greets guests with a Lemon Boy Bellini. Tomato Bellini? That sounds oddly delicious.

  • Ginger Beer Gives a Buck more Bang

    My latest story in the San Francisco Chronicle (from Sunday's paper) went online today. Read it here.

    Erickcastrorickhouse

    Ginger beer gives a buck more bang

    Camper English, Special to The Chronicle

    Friday, July 24, 2009

    When ginger ale or beer is mixed with citrus in a drink, it is – or more accurately, was – known as a buck.

    Early cocktail books list recipes for the gin buck or London buck cocktail, and variations of rum bucks were called the Shanghai buck, Jamaica buck or Barbados buck, depending on the type of rum used. If you squeeze your lime garnish into a Dark 'n' Stormy, you've got a rum buck.

    "The buck is one of those cocktails that works with every base spirit," says Erick Castro, beverage director at Rickhouse, the new Financial District bar. "Most cocktails don't work with gin and scotch and vodka and rum."

    Read more about bucks and mules and get the recipe for Erick Castro's Kentucky Buck here.

  • The Count of San Francisco

    Silly me, I didn't even notice that my story on Count Niccolo Branca of Fernet-Branca was in this month's San Francisco Magazine. Here it is.

    The count comes a-courting

    Bottle talk with the CEO behind San Francisco's favorite shot, Fernet-Branca.

    By Camper English, Photograph by Cody Pickens

    Branca

    San Franciscans consume around 35 percent of all the Fernet-Branca
    sold in the United States, thanks mostly to the local palate, which
    tends to skew toward bitter. Recently, the chairman and CEO of Branca
    International (and the great-great-grandson of Fernet’s creator), Count Niccolò Branca,
    paid a visit to San Francisco to meet with bartenders and visit
    high-selling accounts. We met him at Foreign Cinema, where he shared
    some company lore and addressed a few persistent rumors about the brand.

    Branca
    says he hasn’t been to town for about 25 years, though San Franciscans
    have repeatedly tried to visit his distillery in Milan, where all the
    Fernet-Branca imbibed in the States is made. “Sometimes they come on
    Saturday or Sunday, when the company is closed. Monday morning, we find
    on the door a paper—they write, ‘I want to visit. I see where is born
    the Fernet-Branca,’” the count reports. And now they can, since the
    distillery and its museum have finally opened for tours (by
    appointment).

    Branca insists that his bitter liqueur has never
    contained opiates, as some have alleged over the years. His evidence is
    circumstantial but still convincing: Opiate possession is currently
    prohibited in Italy, and he says the recipe for Fernet-Branca hasn’t
    changed in the 164 years it’s been produced. But he assured us that a
    couple of perceptions are true: one, that drinkers across the world ask
    for Fernet-Branca served “San Francisco–style,” meaning a shot
    accompanied by a ginger ale chaser; two, that Fernet-Branca remained
    legal during Prohibition because of its medicinal qualities.

    The count complimented San Franciscans on our pronunciation of his product’s name (fur-net), which he hears incorrectly all over the world. “Even in Italy, some people say fur-nay,” he explains. “But the important word is Branca!
  • The Third Annual Tales of the Cocktail Swag Awards

    It's that time of year again, the time for the Tales of the Cocktail Swag Awards!

    View the winners from 2007 here and the 2008 Swag Awards here.

    This year instead of a gift bag there was a swag room at Tales, so you took a bag and walked around and filled it up with items of interest. My items of interest became clear during this exchange in the elevator of the hotel immediately afterward.

    Stranger, looking at my sack o' swag: "You know San Francisco's in the house when you see somebody with a bag of Fernet."

    He was mistaken- I only had about 10 minis of Fernet on top of the bag. I also filled with the bag with other minis, making up the majority of my swag.

    Mini swags

    And to add to what I am now calling a collection, a few more muddlers.

    Muddlerss

    I also was given four different cocktail shakers and managed to give three of them away before I got on the plane.

    Most of best swag came from the cocktail bloggers' conference held the two days before Tales though. I got a full set (minus the new Bittermen's Bitters) set of The Bitter Truth cocktail bitters,

    Bitter truths

    as well as a nice set of Rosle garnish tools.

    Rosle toolss

    But the best was a tiki mug- in the shape of Magnum, P.I. from Tiki Farm!

    Magnumpi tiki mugs

    However, as the Drink.Write 2009 conference was a private event, even the best mug cannot be declared the winner.

    But what can? Find out after the jump…

    (more…)

  • Drinks to Match the Dress

    San Francisco bartender pairs cocktail with cocktail dress

    Camper English, Special to The Chronicle

    Sunday, July 12, 2009

    Many cocktail contests now require bartenders to pair drinks with meals or invent them on the spot with a secret ingredient, but a recent competition challenged mixologists around the world with a new pairing: cocktails with cocktail dresses.

    Jacqueline Patterson, a bartender at Heaven's Dog in San Francisco, was the winning bartender from the United States. Accessorize 2009 was sponsored by Cherry Heering, a liqueur that the brand owners call an "accessory" in cocktails such as the Singapore Sling.

    Read the rest of my latest story in the San Francisco Chronicle here.

    Jackiesingapore
    Jackiesingaporedrink

  • History of the El Diablo Cocktail in Trader Vic’s Books

    I was trying to find the first reference to the El Diablo cocktail recently.

    Mexican El Diablo



    1/2 lime


    1 ounce tequila


    1/2 crème de cassis


    Ginger Ale


    Squeeze lime juice into a 10-ounce glass; drop in spent shell. Add ice cubes, tequila, and crème de cassis. Fill glass with ginger ale.

    Searching the web, the earliest reference I read to it was from Trader Vic's books of 1946 and 1947.

    I asked tiki expert Martin Cate, who has these books, if he knew if the drink was a Trader Vic original. After his research it's still not entirely clear, but the research is interesting in itself.

    Martin says:

    IT IS in the 1946 TV Book of Food and Drink- It is
    called a "Mexican El Diablo" and it IS singled out as an original
    cocktail.
     
    IT IS in the 1947 TV Bartender's Guide again as a
    "Mexican El Diablo", but does not declare it an original- although that book
    does not specify.
     
    It's not in the TV Kitchen Kibitzer
    1952
     
    IT IS in the TV Pacific Island Cookbook of
    1968, but now called "El Diablo" only
     
    IT IS in the TV Bartender Guide Revised 1972 as an
    "El Diablo", but does not say it's his.  This edition DOES call out
    original drinks.

    Thanks Martin!

    If anyone finds an earlier reference to the El Diablo or Mexican El Diablo, please let me know.

  • Rickhouse: A First Look

    Yesterday I stopped in to Rickhouse, the new bar by the folks from Bourbon & Branch, Swig, Anu, and the liquor store Cask.

    The bar is located at 246 Kearny Street at the site of the long-time gay bar Ginger's Trois. (I believe Anu was built where Ginger's Too was once located.)  Ginger's was a small space with a sunken bar and a tiny seating area in the back, all with a unique art deco design.

    Rickhouse couldn't be more different. They completely remodeled the space and annexed the old storage room and some unused restrooms in the back. Now you enter on a long vertical room with a bar running down one side. In the back of the front room is a small balcony beneath a newly-installed skylight that apparently gets direct overhead light for just an hour or so per day. The balcony is open on either side, facing the front and back rooms.

    Rickhouse2

    The back room is situated like a "T" to the front room, and can be partitioned off with large sliding wood doors. The bar for this room is on the back left, and it smaller than the one in the front.

    When the space is open, there will be low seats and small tables throughout both rooms and the balcony. However, unlike B&B there will not be reserved seating. (There will be cocktail servers though to take the crush off the front bar.) The furniture is all pretty mobile, so depending on the number of people and the time of the day, they'll move the furniture around to accommodate everyone.

    The walls, ceilings, and floors are all made of wood. I think it's nearly all reclaimed wood- most of it from barrel staves used in layers on the ceiling (similar to the ceiling at Cask), some of it from a construction project next door, and some from a former nunnery where they distilled whiskey during prohibition. Former bourbon barrels are also used as decoration in the space, and the chandeliers are made from the metal bands that bind barrels together. One exposed brick wall opposite the front bar apparently has some of the char left from the 1906 fire.

    Rickhouse1

    The  cocktail menu I've been asked not to say too much about just yet, but it has very little overlap with the drink menu from Bourbon & Branch.

    The bar is not yet open to the public and won't be fully open for about three weeks after they finish final construction touches, then allow a healthy soft-opening period for the bartenders and servers to become familiar with the new menu.

    Rickhouse is looking really, really good.

    Rickhousefront

  • A Camper Cocktail

    SeanMike over at Scofflaw's Den is making cocktails for mixologists, bloggers, and other folks, and naming them for those people.

    And now he's made one named The Camper, made with blanco tequila, grenadine, lemon juice, pineapple grapefruit soda, and Peychaud's bitters. Sounds tasty- I can't wait to try me.

  • The Intercontinental Cocktails of Charles H. Baker

    I wrote a story in this weekend's San Francisco Chronicle about Charles H. Baker's cocktails and their popularity, centering around the program at Heaven's Dog in San Francisco.

    "A hazy memory of a night in Havana during the unpleasantnesses of
    1933, when each swallow was punctuated with bombs going off on the
    Prado…"

    erik adkins read charles h baker's the gentlemans' companion at heaven's dog in san francisco This line by Charles H. Baker Jr. introduces not an account of Cuban
    rebellion but the cocktail Remember the Maine, which he was drinking
    there while it took place. Baker wrote about drinks from his travels
    around the world in the early 1900s, mostly during Prohibition, when
    the drinking in the United States wasn't legal – or very good.

    Other drinks in Baker's two-volume "The Gentleman's Companion" are
    introduced from such ports of call as Beijing, Monte Carlo and Bombay
    (now Mumbai), ripe with mentions of princes, peacocks, cruises up the
    Nile and hanging out with Hemingway.

    Bartenders in particular have latched on to Baker as a patron saint
    of good living, and his cocktails and quotes from his writings are both
    appearing on drink menus.

    "I've always thought that when you have a drink there's so much that
    comes with it: your friends, who you're with, the time of the day,"
    says Erik Adkins, general manager of Heaven's Dog in SoMa. "And (Baker)
    captured all that.."

    But for all the excitement about Baker's cocktails, they share an unfortunate common trait.

    "I think the recipes mostly need a lot of work," says Adkins.

    read the rest of the story here.

    In the story I also mentioned the forthcoming coffee/cocktail bar Fort Defiance, in Brooklyn, that should be opening later this month. But that's not the only bar to put Baker back on the menu:

    The Brooklyn bar Clover Club dedicated a small section of the menu to what owner Julie Reiner says are Baker’s best cocktails this winter, including the Remember the Maine.

    In Portland, Ore., the bar Beaker and Flask, named for the subtitle of one volume of “Gentleman’s Companion,” is set to open. Owner Kevin Ludwig says he’ll be featuring Baker drinks on the menu, though not exclusively.

    In Amsterdam, speakeasy-style bar door 74 recently offered several pages of Baker drinks, with the menu letterhead mimicking the Baker’s own.

    Baker's globe-hopping cocktail book is now helping those cocktails hop back around the world.

    Bakerbookfromchron

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