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  • Give thanks for beer and turkey

    By me, in Friday’s SF Chronicle:

    A new Web site by the Brewers Association wants you to pass on the wine this Turkey Day and pop open a craft beer instead. BeerAndTurkey.org offers suggestions for beer pairings with a range of holiday meals, including roasted, smoked and Cajun-style turkey, ham, goose, salmon and lamb. They also pair beer with side dishes and seasonings, like amber ale with sage dishes and all-malt pilsner, dark lager or red ale to go with buttery mashed potatoes and creamed corn. The site also lists a few serving suggestions (large bottles for easy sharing, multiple glasses for multiple beers), but not all segments of the population will be served by the Web site: There are no pairing notes for Tofurky.

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  • Felten and Wondrich book reviews

    By me, in today’s SF Chronicle:

    New books dedicated to old drinks
    Camper English

    Many drink books published today are the “Behind the Music” of cocktails, telling the stories of the book authors and recipe histories rather than inventing a slew of new libations.

    In the past few years we’ve seen titles including “Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails: From the Alamagoozulum Cocktail to the Zombie,” “Straight Up or On the Rocks: The Story of the American Cocktail,” “Sippin’ Safari: In Search of the Great “Lost” Tropical Drink Recipes… And the People Behind Them,” and “And a Bottle of Rum: A History of the New World in Ten Cocktails.” This fall, two more titles make that list.

    “Imbibe!” by Esquire writer David Wondrich (Perigee Trade, $24) is an investigation into the first known cocktail recipe book, Jerry Thomas’ “How to Mix Drinks” from 1862.

    The majority of the text is a deconstruction of about 100 recipes from or inspired by “How to Mix Drinks.” Wondrich translates the recipes into current measurement sizes, suggests substitutions and deletions of specific ingredients, and recommends specific brands to give the drinks authentic (or better tasting) flavor. But this is not just an updated recipe book: While each recipe may consist of only a few lines, Wondrich’s historical analysis of the drink’s origin, comparison with recipes from other texts, and suggested alterations and spin-offs can go on for several pages each. (And in a few places he refers to how much material he left out to save space.) Wondrich uncovered many new bits of information and has answered several lingering cocktail origin questions in the book. Cocktail connoisseurs and history buffs will find this book an essential addition to their reference libraries.

    Eric Felten’s “How’s Your Drink? Cocktails, Culture, and the Art of Drinking Well” (Agate Surrey, $20; release date Nov. 28) is written in the breezy tone that defines his James Beard Award-winning column of the same name in the Wall Street Journal. The book consists of short essays on classic and modern cocktails with recipes at the end of each, grouped into chapters on ice drinks, holiday drinks, war drinks and the like. Though Felten also traces cocktail origins, he references fewer cocktail books and more literary sources like Broadway plays, novels and newspaper stories. It is a cultural study rather than a technical one, packed with great trivia and hilarious observations like calling gargantuan martinis “hazing, not hospitality.” The best description of the book, and the study of cocktail history in general, comes from the conclusion. “If there is anything to be serious about in the way of drinks it is this only: that one’s drink be delicious. If it can add to our pleasure by having a good story to tell, then all the better.”

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  • Vintage Cocktail Books

    By me, in today’s SF Chronicle:

    Bartenders shake and stir their way through cocktail history
    Camper English, Special to the Chronicle

    Because of their proximity to sticky liquids, well-used cocktail books often don’t hold up over time, which may be why vintage cocktail books from the 1860s through the 1940s are rare and highly collectible.

    These books hold more value than the recipes inside or their resale value, however. Modern cocktail enthusiasts use them to rediscover how and what people were drinking when the books were written, what bar life was like in the beginning of the last century, and the history of bartending as a profession.

    Josey Packard, a bartender at Alembic in the Upper Haight who also studies recipe history, earned her master’s degree in editorial studies at Boston University, during which she became interested in books about classic cocktails. She initially made drinks that she read about in newspapers, including the mojito and cosmopolitan, which lead her to try more gin-based and other complex drinks like the Corpse Reviver, Mary Pickford and Gansevoort fizz not widely made in bars at the time. “There was a point at which I realized I was more disappointed than delighted when going out for cocktails,” she says. And thus began her career as a bartender.

    Keep reading here.

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  • Pumpkin pie, just like Mom used to drink

    By me, in today’s SF Chronicle:

    Modern Spirits Vodka, the small brand that creates infusions like celery peppercorn and chocolate orange, has released its first seasonal flavor: pumpkin pie. (They’ll be launching a rose infusion for Valentine’s Day next.) The vodka was infused with pumpkin puree and spices like cinnamon and nutmeg and retains a slight orange-yellow color, but isn’t so bold as to taste like a pie put into a blender. It’s fine served cold as a sipping vodka (a nice digestif after a big turkey meal), or in one of several recipes found on the Web site ModernSpiritsVodka.com. The Everything Nice cocktail could be served in place of dessert: 2 ounces pumpkin pie vodka, 1 ounce heavy cream, 2 tablespoons maple syrup and a splash of orange liqueur served in a graham cracker-rimmed martini glass.

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  • Tiki bar crawl in San Francisco

    By me, in today’s SF Chronicle:

    Next Thursday though Sunday is the seventh annual San Francisco Bay Area Tiki Crawl. That the event is spread out over four days and three geographic regions is an indicator that we have a heck of a lot of tiki bars in this part of the world. (Take that, Hawaii!) On South Bay Thursday, the hordes descend upon Smoke Tiki, the Palo Alto Trader Vic’s and Martini Monkey in the San Jose airport (pending approval). Friday night, city tiki-hoppers stop by Trad’r Sam, the Tonga Room, Bamboo Hut and the San Francisco Trader Vic’s. On Saturday, it’s time to hit Trader Vic’s in Emeryville, Forbidden Island in Alameda, and the Conga Lounge and Kona Club in Oakland. The tour ends on Sunday with a leisurely revisit of Forbidden Island. There is no bus between venues unlike past years, so drivers are encouraged to find safe carpool situations rather than anger the great gods of common sense. Specific times and addresses, as well as an e-mail information list can be found on TikiCrawl.com.

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  • Even over polite whisky conversation, the discussion turns to Britney Spears

    Last night I went to Absinthe for a dinner with Mike Miyamoto of Yamazaki Whisky. They brought along David Wondrich, whose new book I reviewed for the Chronicle (review coming out November 9th).

    We tasted the 12 and 18 year whiskies, as well as a 25-year-old not available in the US. What’s unique about these whiskies is the Japanese oak used to age some of it (they use five types of barrels- three American oak new or used bourbon, one Spanish oak sherry casks, and one Japanese oak), which impart an incense-spice flavor to the whisky.

    Until I could identify the flavor on its own, I thought of it as very fine ground green and red pepper confetti, whereas American oak is a more coarse confetti. This is how my tongue identifies oak until my brain catches up.

    Somewhere during the dinner the conversation took a turn to Britney Spears ( I blame Wondrich), though it didn’t linger there too long after I started mocking them.

    Miyamoto has worked on different production aspects of whisky in the US, Japan, and Scotland. The company has been making whisky in Japan since 1923, and studying it scientifically to try to achieve the best product. When he went to Scotland (after Suntory purchased a distillery there) to see what the Scots could teach them about making whisky, he says they were just coasting on their laurels and following tradition instead of studying and innovating.

    Also unique about Yamazaki is that the product is changing. They are trying to make better product so they try to improve the equipment and processes rather than aim for consistency. They reduced the size of their stills to make a better whisky a couple of years ago, so we won’t see how that tastes for another ten years. Miyamoto said, “If there is something you don’t like about the whisky let us know and we’ll change it.”

    They sure don’t talk like that in Scotland.

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  • Smells like ‘tini syrup


    By me, in Friday’s SF Chronicle:

    For the past few years, cocktail consultant Jacques Bezuidenhout has been sneaking maple syrup into the drinks he invents for the Starlight Room and special events, and perhaps it’s finally caught on, because now we see it on several menus about town.

    At Bar Drake, downstairs from the Starlight Room, Bezuidenhout put maple syrup in the lobby bar’s signature cocktail: the Bar Drake Manhattan. It contains Woodford Reserve bourbon, Port, Angostura bitters and maple syrup. 450 Powell St. (at Sutter), San Francisco; (415) 392-7755, Ext. 226, bardrake.com.

    Across town at the Presidio Social Club, you’ll find the breakfast ingredient in the Pays d’Auge Cocktail, along with Calvados and citrus. 563 Ruger St.(near the Presidio’s Lombard Gate), San Francisco; (415) 885-1888, presidiosocialclub.com.

    Maple syrup is an unexpected ingredient in any drink, let alone drinks at a tiki bar, but Forbidden Island in Alameda has added it to the fall drink menu. The Dead Reckoning also pairs maple syrup with Port, along with 12-year-old Cockspur rum, Navan vanilla liqueur and fresh citrus. 1304 Lincoln Ave. (at Sherman), Alameda; (510) 749-0332, forbiddenislandalameda.com.

    And at the new Bar Johnny in Russian Hill, they make no secret of the syrup in the Bourbon and Maple. It includes those two ingredients, along with the nutty liqueur Nocino Della Cristina and Angostura bitters. Does anyone else want pie? 2209 Polk St. (at Vallejo), San Francisco; (415) 268-0140.

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  • WhiskyFest listing

    Okay, last post about WhiskyFest until I go there: Here is the mention of the event in Friday’s SF Chronicle:

    Lessons in whisky

    Malt Advocate magazine’s WhiskyFest, which has been running annually for years in New York and Chicago, makes its debut in San Francisco on Tuesday. It’s a one-stop whisk(e)y workshop, with lectures, tastings of more than 250 Scotch, Irish, Canadian, Japanese, and American whiskeys, and food to keep you from getting overwhelmed by it all. Some of the special guests and/or speakers this year are Jimmy Bedford, master distiller at Jack Daniel’s, Fred Noe, Jim Beam’s great grandson, and John Campbell, distillery manager at Laphroaig. New whiskeys available for tasting include Benromach Organic Scotch, additional Glenmorangie finishes, and the Buffalo Trace 2007 Antique Collection. The event runs from 6:30 to 10 p.m. at the Hyatt Regency, 5 Embarcadero Center, in San Francisco. Tickets cost $105; to register in advance and for information, call (800) 610-6258 or visit maltadvocate.com.

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  • Lost ingredients

    Here’s my big fat lost ingredients cover story in today’s SF Chronicle Wine Section.

    Resurrecting spirits
    Camper English, Special to The Chronicle
    Friday, October 19, 2007

    Last year, Erik Ellestad, a cocktail aficionado and systems administrator at UCSF, decided to drink his way through a classic recipe book.

    Though he initially considered “The Old Waldorf Astoria Bar Book,” he found a cocktail every couple pages that required an obscure or unavailable ingredient, so he chose the easier-seeming “Savoy Cocktail Book” from 1930. On his path to making the book’s 750 drinks, he hit his first snag at the second recipe: The namesake spirit in the absinthe cocktail had been banned in the United States since 1912.

    “I tried a couple of substitutes (including pastis) that were not very satisfying. Then I received a bonus from work … so I decided to order some absinthe from London.”

    Ellestad has plenty of company: Historically accurate cocktails are a growing trend extending from the classic cocktail craze, with an emphasis on finding and tasting the first-known version of a drink. Such cocktails can be a challenge to re-create. Drink recipes from 100 or more years ago require some translation, as they were smaller in size, used measurements such as drachms and gills, and involved processes like clarifying loaf sugar syrup.

    But, as Ellestad found, the bigger challenge is that many of the spirits and other ingredients called for in classic recipes are no longer imported, have changed flavor profiles radically, were outlawed or are simply no longer produced.

    Hunting down obscure spirits involves time, travel, collaboration and sometimes, reinvention. Nevertheless, dedicated drink historians (and thirsty mixologists) are working together to bring many of these lost cocktail ingredients back onto the market.

    (Go read the rest. There’s lots of it and I name-checked about half the booze nerds on the planet.)

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  • Back from Poland

    I’m back from Poland and jet lagged as all get-out. I was there and in Paris on a press trip for Chopin vodka. While I’ll save many of the details for a later exposition on the trip and for stories I need to write, I’ll hit the highlights of the distillery tour.

    We were there during the potato harvest, which happens just once each year. Unlike grain distilleries and other potato vodkas like Blue Ice from Idaho, Chopin distills all their potatoes into vodka (and other alcohol products) over a two-month period at harvest time, kicked off with a VIP party at the distillery. I’m not sure yet why they need to process everything all at once whereas other distilleries can spread this throughout the year (the pesticide-free potatoes spoil fast, they say, but do American potatoes last that much longer? Is it the type of potatoes or the pesticides?) (update: see answer in comments). They process 10 million pounds of potatoes during this period, running the distillery 24 hours a day.

    It’s rare on visits like this to see actual product coming into the distillery, so I was thrilled to see the potatoes move from the yard, into the distillery, and down the wash chute into the boiler. We had little time to see everything, so I was running behind Tad Dorda, president of Chopin, asking three questions for every sentence he spit out. I am a drink nerd, after all.

    The potatoes are a special variety unlike what we get at the grocery store, of high starch content that turns to liquid mush quickly. They’re then cooled and fermented for three days before hitting the still to turn them from potato beer into potato vodka. Of the four column still, the first one is made of copper and the other three of steel. As is usually the case, the first column separates out the solids, which are then sold as animal feed afterwards. (I think, but am not sure, that it’s unusual for them to be placed into the top of the column and making their way to the bottom of it, rather than bottom-up.)

    They’re particularly proud of the first-distillation vodka produced, and we were supposed to do a taste test of others one-time distilled but didn’t have time. That was a bummer. They store some of this distillate for future scientific study at the nearby potato institute to see how the makeup of each year’s potato crops effects the outcome of the vodka.

    Then it’s shipped to the bottling facility where it’s diluted with demineralized well water and we get to drink it. Na Zdrowie!

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