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  • Solid Liquids: Dehydrating Liqueurs in the Oven

    SolidLiquidsProjectSquareLogoIn the process of making powdered liqueurs for future use, I've been trying to figure out the best method to get liquids into solids. I'll be comparing the microwave to the oven to the food dehydrator, using Campari as my first liqueur in all of them.

    In today's post we'll look at using the oven. Following the suggestion of Don Lee on this eGullet thread, I purchased silicone cupcake cups to experiment with. They can be used in the microwave or oven and are easy to clean.

    In all of my oven experiments, the procedure was the same. I filled the cupcake cup with 2 ounces of Campari, put it on a cookie sheet, and put it in the oven. Most of the time I cooked the liquid for 12-24 hours.

    Clumpy campari in cup (2)_tn

    Dehydrating Campari at 140F and 170F (in separate trials), the liqueur would dehydrate and get clumpy. I'd then squeeze the cupcake cup a bit to break up the clumps and expose any wet spots so that it would dry completely. In the end I had a combination of powder and pebble-sized clumps of dehydrated Campari.

    Clumpy campari in bowl closeup_tn

    At 200F I had clearly reach some sort of candying state with the sugar. It looked like it was still watery with liquid, but on further inspection it was closer to a melted lollipop- very brilliant liquid sugar. On removal from the oven it formed a hard puck shaped like a Reese's Peanut Butter Cup.

    Campari puck 200 degrees3_tn
    Campari puck 200 degrees_tn

    At 250F the sugar burns a bit, becoming brown in color and smelling more like molasses. It also stays liquid and forms a hard puck in the bottom of the cupcake cup.

    Campari oven 250 puck2_tn
    Campari oven 250 puck3_tn

    On tasting after grinding these with a mortar and pestle, I found that the 250F Campari tasted like brown sugar or molasses with a bitter Campari twinge to it. It wasn't nearly as bad as I expected but I am not sure how I'd use it. Campari gingerbread cookies, perhaps?

    Oven 200 vs 250_tn
    (Campari cooked at 200F vs 250F)

    The 200F powdered Campari had a distinctly sharp bitterness to it. The 170F Campari powder had the best and most Campari-esque flavor of all, with that great Campari brightness still present and a balance of sweetness from sugar with the heavy bitterness there too. The 140F powder was also very good, but I prefer the 170 at least on this first experiment.

    Mortar and pestle3_tn

    Another reason to use the lower-temperature Campari powder is that the others were harder to crush up (like crushing a lollipop instead of granola). They also seem to want to stick together. After crushing, they get clumpy. (I tried reheating at a lower temperature to see if it would stop clumping, but it just formed back into a blog and I had to re-crush it again!) Clumpy clusters are probably be fine for baking purposes, but not practical for rimming cocktail glasses. 

    Ground campari2_tn

    Long story short: Oven at 170F worked best for me.

    In the next post, we'll look at using the microwave to dehydrate liqueur.

    The Solid Liquids Project index is at this link.

  • Solid Liquids: Dehydrating Liqueurs in a Food Dehydrator

    SolidLiquidsProjectSquareLogoIn the process of making powdered liqueurs for future use, I've been trying to figure out the best method to get liquids into solids. I'll be comparing the microwave to the oven to the food dehydrator, using Campari as my first liqueur in all of them.

    For now let's talk about the food dehydrator. I have a Nesco food dehydrator, which has a heating element and a fan in the lid. The racks in it are perforated for drying solid material, so I purchased additional solid-bottom racks made for making fruit rolls.

    Dehydrator2_tn

    I poured 8 oz of Campari in one rack and turned it on. After 24 hours it was still a bit sticky. Towards 36 hours I noticed some parts that were clumpy so I broke those up to expose still-liquid parts beneath. (It turns out this helps no matter which dehydration method you use.) It might not take 36 hours to dry next time.

    Wet campari dehydrator_tn

    You can see it formed some interesting crystal patterns as it dried.

    Dry campari dehydrator1_tn
    Closeup dry campari dehydrator_tn

    I scraped off the Campari initially with my fingers, then found a flat plastic serving spoon turned upside down made a good scraper.

    I then put everything into a mortar and pestle and ground it up.

    Campari dust pile2_tn

    From 8 ounces of liquid I got about 3 ounces of Campari sugar. (A little less than 50% of the liquid volume has proved consistent using other methods.) That means that Campari has a ton of sugar in it. So much for my all-Campari weight loss program!

    The Campari that I couldn't scrape off the plastic sheet washed off surprisingly easily with hot water, so the mess isn't bad.

    All told, this method was easy to execute but can take quite a while. The dehydrator doesn't generate a ton of external heat (a concern in the summer when its hot enough already) but enough to be noticeable. Also noticeable is the sound of the fan running. 

    In the next post, we'll look at using the oven to dehydrate liqueur.

    The Solid Liquids Project index is at this link.

     

  • The Spread of Sugarcane in the Old World

    SugarSpiritLogoSquare1

    In the last post we looked at what sugarcane is. Now we'll see where it came from and how it traveled around the world.

     

    Sugarcane is a tall grass native to the region of the India and Southeast Asia. It was first domesticated in New Guinea, perhaps independently in Indonesia.

     

    In 325 BC Alexander the Great’s general Nearchus said, “A reed in India brings forth honey without the help of bees, from which an intoxicating drink is made though the plant bears no fruit.”

     

    Around the same time, sugar was referred to as khanda, from which we probably derive the word candy.

     

    In China there are references to sugar in 286 BC. Sugar spread with Buddhism and the Buddha was even referred to as the “King of Sugarcane.”

     

    Sugar loaves were probably first produced in India 2000 years ago. Sugar loaves are hardened in ceramic molds or cones from which the more liquid molasses was drained, leaving behind the dark-brown, crystalline loaf.

     

    Dioscorides (circa 40—90 AD) wrote, “There is a kind of concentrated honey, called saccharon, found in reeds in India and Arabia Felix, like in consistence to salt, and brittle to be broken between the teeth, as salt is. It is good for the belly and the stomach being dissolved in water and so drank, helping the pained bladder and the reins.” This shows he was familiar with the crystalline form of sugar. 

     

    Sugar making in Egypt probably came before Arab conquest. The Arabs were experts at irrigation and used their skills to grow sugarcane and spread it to new places. Arabs spread it to the Mediterranean, Sicily, Cyprus, Malta, Morocco, and Spain. 

     

    During the First Crusade (1096-99) Christians discovered Arab cane farms. Soon they were growing and transferring sugar cane to new locations.  

     

    From the Canary Islands it traveled to the New World. We'll pick up sugar's spread to the West in the next post. 

     

     

    The Sugar Spirit Project is sponsored by Bacardi Rum. Content created and owned by Camper English for Alcademics. For the project index, click on the logo above or follow this link

     

  • Studying Sugar: A Resource List

    SugarSpiritLogoSquare1 In the Sugar Spirit Project, I've had to use several sources to research material, so I figured I'd list them on this page should you want to read them yourself or check my work.

    I'll add to the list as I use more resources.  

    • Sweetness and Power: The Place of Sugar in Modern History By Sidney W. Mintz (1985). This book traces the history of sugar but is primarily a sociological study of sugar consumption in England. It traces how sugar became so popular so fast. 
    • Sugar: A Bittersweet History By Elizabeth Abbott (2008). In-depth sugar history, spread of sugar, lasting effects of sugar production, finals notes on environmental concerns. Contains a lot of information on sugar and the slave trade. 
    • Sugar.org, the website of the Sugar Association. Some brief but good information in the Downloads section.
    • The Wikipedia entry for Sugar is surprisingly good. 
    • The sugarcane Wikipedia entry is not bad either. 
    • The USDA plants database entry is pretty cool. 

     

    The Sugar Spirit Project is sponsored by Bacardi Rum. Content created and owned by Camper English for Alcademics. For the project index, click on the logo above or follow this link

     

     

  • How NOT to Dehydrate Campari

    SolidLiquidsProjectSquareLogoI figure, why not try the method that looks easiest first, even if it seems doomed to fail? 

    That's what I decided to do as an experiment in dehydrating liqueurs down to sugar: to see what happens when you cook Campari the fastest way possible to get all the liquid out. 

     

    Microwave fail dehydrated campari5_tn

    I put two ounces of Campari in a silicone cupcake cup and tossed it in the microwave. After 30 seconds it boiled over. First it came to a rapid boil, then turned to a real frothy boil. 

    Microwave fail dehydrated campari1_tn

    After the liquid evaporated more, the boil turned more gentle; around three and a half minutes in. But soon enough, at four minutes, came the smell of caramelizing/burning sugar. 

    At five minutes most of the liquid was gone, and then the sugar started blackening. The Campari turned black, puffed up, and started smoking. I had to open all the windows in my apartment to keep the fire alarm from going off. 

    A black crust formed where the red sugar was. After removing it from the microwave, it cooled quickly then I tried it. Surprisingly, it tastes just like a burnt marshmallow; just a little more molasses-y. There was no Campari taste to it at all. 

    In conclusion: That Didn't Work. 

    Microwave fail dehydrated campari4_tn

     

    The Solid Liquids Project index is at this link

     

  • An Oral History of Liqueur Dust

    SolidLiquidsProjectSquareLogoIn studying the methods bartenders have used to dehydrate liqueurs into flavored powders, I mentioned that I didn't know the complete origin story of the practice. 

    Luckily, Jacob Briars, currently the global brand director for Leblon cachaca (and formerly with 42Below vodka), sent me an email with the full story as he remembers it. 

    You are right, like so many great bartending tricks it has its genesis south of the equator, in early 2006 as I recall, maybe even earlier. As far as I understand it, here is the potted history of 'dust':

    Many bartenders will have noticed that spirits that are high in sugar will often crystallize around the mouth of the bottle – Campari, Frangelico and Chartreuse are particularly prone. (Campari's dirty secret is that its inherent bitterness masks an insane amount of sugar that would shame most liqueurs)

    The first person I know of who thought of a cocktail application for this was Mick Formosa, who used to run the bar at Ginger in Melbourne, 2005-2007. Previous alumni of this place include Sam Ross, Sebastian Reaburn and Jason Williams, and in the mid 00s it could have made a good claim to be one  of the best bars on earth. Sadly the recession saw the end of Ginger and it closed 2 1/2 years ago.

    Anyway, I digress. As I understand, Mick was cleaning the bottles as per usual one Sunday night and noticed the Campari crystals, and tried tasting them. He immediately thought of the possibility of using these in a drink, and texted a similarly adventurous bartender, Sydney-based Ben Walsh, who was running the superb Victoria Room. Ben set about trying to produce Campari dust on a bigger scale, using a roasting pan in a barely heated oven (from memory he used the pilot light in a commercial gas oven, which was more than enough heat) until dehydrated, then grinding the dried Campari into a powder using a mortar and pestle. Between two great bartenders in two great bartending cities, this technique caught on quickly.

    Later that year (2006) it saw its first major public outing when flavored 'dust' was used by the Australian team at the 42BELOW Cocktail World Cup as a sugar to make a flavored candy floss (called fairy floss in Aust, and I think it's called Cotton Candy in the US?) This application – using various dusts to create powerfully flavored 'boozy cotton candy' also swept across both Australia and New Zealand, but it always seemed to work best with the bittersweet Campari. Floss made with things like Cointreau just ended up tasting like orange.

    In 2007, again at the 42BELOW World Cup, another Australian team made a 'dust' out of Chartreuse, and used it to rim the glass for their cocktail and also as a garnish. In that year, the judges included Dale DeGroff, Angus Winchester, and Colin Field (Ritz, Paris) and all took this technique back with them, where it eventually started to be talked about in the US, Europe and the UK.

    I've had lots of dusts in NZ and Australia and made many more myself, but none is ever as good as that Chartreuse dust (55% abv Green, btw) that I saw in that comp. Possibly the only use of a 'spirit gimmick' that tastes better than the spirit itself.

    I think for this to work, the base flavor needs to be both powerful and memorable. So flavors that can be mistaken for something else in a cocktail, e.g. orange liqueur dust just tastes like orange peel, don't seem to be effective. But liqueurs that are high in sugar, with a striking visual appearance and taste profile, are perfect for this technique. Hence, Campari, Chartreuse, Fernet Branca, are about the best bets. And tho the taste isn't all that unique, color-wise Cheery Heering and blue curaçao will also work well.

    Anyway, great piece and I look forward to seeing this develop.

    Thanks Jacob!

     

    The Solid Liquids Project index is at this link

  • Sugar Spirit: What is Sugarcane?

    SugarSpiritLogoSquare1 In the Sugar Spirit project, we're going to look at sugar's history and production, but first we should establish what sugar and sugarcane are. 

    Sugar and Sucrose

    When we talk about sugar, we mean table sugar, or sucrose. 

    To chemists, sugar refers to a class of 'edible crystalline carbohydrates' that also includes fructose and lactose. But most of us aren't chemists so we won't use the word 'sucrose' so much as just 'sugar.'

    Except for now: Sucrose occurs in all green plants. It is a plant food manufactured photosynthetically from carbon dioxide and water.

    For table sugar, the plants harvested to make it are sugarcane and sugar beets. We'll get to sugar beets later.

    Zacapa sugar cane field harvest demo
    (Sugarcane harvest demo in Guatemala.)

    Sugarcane

    Sugarcane is a large grass of the family Gramineae. There are six known species. 

    The most widely grown is saccharum officinarum, which depending on your source is called “noble cane” or “sugar of the apothecaries.” Its stalks that grow as thick as two inches, and 12-15 feet high.

    Sugarcane is a subtropical and tropical crop requiring large amount of water and labor. In farming, it is propagated asexually from cuttings of the stem. It becomes ripe in the dry season after anywhere from 6 to 18 months depending on the climate. 

    In the next post, we'll begin to look at the spread of sugarcane from the Indian Subcontinent to the rest of the world. 

     

    The Sugar Spirit Project is sponsored by Bacardi Rum. Content created and owned by Camper English for Alcademics. For the project index, click on the logo above or follow this link

     

  • Announcing the Sugar Spirit Project

    SugarSpiritLogoSquare1 Today marks the launch of the second Sponsored Project on Alcademics: The Sugar Spirit. The Sugar Spirit Project is sponsored by Bacardi Rum. 

    Rum is made from any sugarcane derivative and is the real sugar spirit, but in this research project I'll primarily be studying sugar itself.

    In writing about cocktails, we often come across recipes calling for different forms of sugar: demerara, muscovado, evaporated organic cane, superfine, etc. I've wanted to study the differences in those sugars for quite a while now so I'm thankful to Bacardi Rum for giving me the support to do so. 

    Along the way, I'll be looking at the history of sugarcane, its byproducts (including molasses, of course), modern and historical production methods, forms and uses, and much more. 

    I've put up an outline of future topics for discussion and experimentation. The outline is on the project index page, which can be reached by following this link or clicking the Sugar Spirit project logo above from any blog page you see it on. 

    This is going to get pretty nerdy, and I know that's how you like it. 

     

    The Sugar Spirit Project is sponsored by Bacardi Rum. Content created and owned by Camper English for Alcademics. For the project index, click on the logo above or follow this link

  • Cool Factor: Cocktail Coolers in the LA Times Magazine

    For my latest feature in the LA Times Magazine, I asked bartenders from warm-weather cities to share their recipes for cool cocktails.

    The bartenders are Larry Rice from Louisville, Bobby Heugel from Houston, Erik Simpkins from Atlanta, Todd Thrasher from Alexandria, Anthony Schmidt from San Diego, Rhiannon Enlil from New Orleans, and Michael Shearin from Los Angeles.

    Latm coolerss1(Photography by Bartholomew Cooke for LA Times Magazine)

    Cool Factor
    The Dog Days Just Howl for Long, Tall, Cold Libations
    By Camper English 

    Different times of the day, changing atmospheric conditions and succeeding meal courses all call for a specific type of cocktail. But it’s the sweltering days and lasting sunlight of August that compel us to seek coolers replete with ice. We asked some of the America’s best bartenders based in warmer climes for a drink to chill us out, and their picks make use of a variety of methods and flavors to accomplish this task, from shaved ice and coconut milk to cucumbers and mint—even a splash of light beer. Cheers!

    Go here for the recipes!

    Latm coolers2
    (Photography by Bartholomew Cooke for LA Times Magazine)

  • Sugar Spirit Project Index

    SugarSpiritLogoSquare1 The aim of the Sugar Spirit Project is to research sugar: its history, production, distribution, forms and use, and byproducts. 

    This page is the project index that will link to all the posts. Hot-linked posts have gone up already, text posts are yet to come. Feel free to suggest more aspects of sugar for me to study in the comments. 

    The Sugar Spirit Project is sponsored by Bacardi Rum. The project content is created and owned by Camper English for Alcademics. 

    1. Announcing The Sugar Spirit Project 
    2. Some resources used.
    3. The History of Sugar
      1. What is sugarcane
      2. Sugar origins
      3. The spread of sugar to the West
      4. Early sugar processing
      5. Developing  a taste for sugar in England
      6. Sugar in early American history
      7. Sugar and slavery
      8. Enter the sugar beet 
      9. Sugarcane and the environment
      10. Big Sugar
    4. Sugar Today
      1. Modern sugar production
      2. Making sugar from cane and sugar beets
      3. Sugar from cane vs. beet
      4. More about cane vs. beet sugar
      5. Sugar cane distribution
      6. The sugar beet today
      7. Sugar byproducts 
      8. The molasses market
    5. Making Sugar Experiments
      1. Methods of juice extraction
      2. Soaking method
      3. Visit a sugar cane farm in California
      4. Visit a sugar factory 
      5. Making crystallized sugar from cane juice at home
    6. Types of Sugar
      1. Types of commercial sugar around the world- muscovado, demerara, molasses, golden syrup, treacle
      2. Other sweeteners – Honey, agave, palm sugar, date sugar, etc
    7. Uses for Sugar
      1. Five uses: medicine, spice-condiment, decorative material, sweetener, preservative.
    8. Sugar Around the World
      1. Italy
      2. Japan
      3. Mexico
    9. Sugar in Distilled Spirits
      1. All spirits from fermentable sugars, explain how each raw ingredient is converted from non-fermentable to fermentable sugars
      2. Where rum is made from raw cane
      3. Molasses changes in the global market 

     

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